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Everything posted by OldCadTech

  1. @rockfangd in the initial post, of the schematic the OP provided, it shows the dark blue wire goes from the coil side of the relay and is the brake booster sensor signal wire. Initially, I thought there was a normal vacuum booster and the pressure system was a back up system. Now, I'm not sure. I do know it is not a hydro-boost system operating from the P/steering pump pressure. The schematic also indicates a vacuum sensor signal as well, but as @Logan indicated it may be a mis-print, if in fact it does not have a vacuum brake booster. BTW @rhdsts airplane crashes come in 3"s
  2. The way I'm reading the circuit, the Booster vacuum switch is normally open, when vacuum falls to the minimum the switch closes which energizes the relay coil, which pulls the relay switch closed and activates the pump. Which to me raises the question(s) why is the vacuum booster losing enough vacuum to activate the pump, OR, why is the accumulator losing enough pressure to demand the pump to run?
  3. If the diaphragm vacuum switch is faulty it could be causing the pump to run too long, overheating the pump motor, then goes the fuse...
  4. Neither have I.. Test the pink wire. If it tests okay, do the pump test that @rockfangd suggested. He knows these systems very well. As an experiment I would put in a 10A circuit breaker and see what happens or try a 15A fuse and see if that lasts any longer. The switch side of the relay ( can't remember if you replaced the relay) might be faulty. You could swap another relay of the same part number and see what happens also.
  5. Looks like the pump and accumulator is mounted on the left strut tower and an additional reservoir is mounted to the right of the M/cylinder. I'd HATE to do a rear exhaust manifold on that thing.... Looks like plugs would be bad enough.
  6. Turn signal wiring same place. I believe there is a bulkhead connector on the right side also. The fuse block is on the passenger side as well
  7. Okay, thanks I know the U/hood fuse block in the 98 was looonngg and was a real PITA to move out of the way when doing the P/Steering pump. If that is the only connector and wasn't too much of a PITA I would do the wiring checks from the connector.
  8. ^^^^^^^^^^ WHAT HE SAID ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Looks like they all use the C-1 connector. @Cadillac Jim is that a multi connector block?
  9. I'm not familiar with it either, other than I know the exports had it. I've never actually seen one but the pic you posted looks like they used parts from the Bosch ABS unit. Not even sure why they felt it was needed. Only thing I can think of is if the engine dies they wanted more / longer assist before the brake pedal got really hard....
  10. Do you know if the vehicle has ever been in an accident? Front end damage, if any would explain a lot.
  11. Looks like your'e going to need to do some wiring checks. How comfortable are you with that? Do you have or have access to a DVOM or a test light?
  12. Okay good, but, back to the schematic I go.....
  13. Okay, change both headlamp fuses 10A with NEW fuses or at least the spares in the fuse panel. I can't begin to count all the fuses that looked good but were in fact BAD.
  14. The key on engine off test gave you a false positive. Do all the tests (key off engine off). Testing 85 to 86 with the test light simply completed the circuit with key on. Use the battery pos and neg terminals that way you know you have a good ground and battery pos voltage.
  15. I responded above and then read the "Rest of the Story".... Anyway, I am old school. I love using DVOM's for testing components etc. but plain old wiring I like to use the above method or in very long circuits I will use a circuit breaker rated the same as the fuse and a short finder. Short finders are great for checking along door sills and any longer wire runs. If you don't have one, I highly recommend a terminal test kit. They make life a lot easier. They're especially nice for doing connector and component drag tests.
  16. It all depends on where you are testing the blue and pink wires from. The purpose of both tests is to isolate the circuit wiring. Pull the Booster pump relay and look at the connector end of the relay, find the terminal marked 30 on the relay and match that terminal to the female connector on the fuse/relay block. Connect a wire to that #30 connector (not at the relay-where the relay plugs into the wire) and connect it to the battery ground terminal. At the booster pump assembly, disconnect the connector and with your test light connected to the positive terminal of the battery, probe the pink wire at terminal C (connector end - not the pump side) if the test light illuminates, disconnect the wire at the negative battery terminal and IF the wire is good the test light will go out. If the test lamp stays illuminated you have a short in that circuit. Physically trace the wire (pink circuit 173 in this example) completely back to the relay connector if necessary to find the short. If the circuit 173 (pink) tests okay repeat the entire process for the DK BLU circuit at relay connector 86 and at booster pump connector A. If they BOTH test good let me know and I can run you through the pump test. These under hood fuse and relay blocks are notorious for corroding, so when you remove the relay check the condition of the connectors. If they look corroded, pull the fuse block so you can see the bottom of it and check it. If the wires are shorted, and are impossible, or seem to be impossible to trace ( without taking half the car apart) and the fuse/relay block is in good condition, remove the faulty circuit connector from the fuse block and run a replacement wire directly from the relay, through the fuse block and to the booster pump connector. If the booster pump connector is in good condition, cut the faulty circuit wire about 4-5 inches from the connector and solder and seal the replacement wire and the old wire together or use a heat sealed butt connector. <<<----- Harbor Freight Watertight Heat-Shrink Butt Connectors Your relay #30 terminal may not be in the same location as the one pictured, but it will be marked.
  17. @Cadillac Jim You are SPOT ON about the wiring and connectors Yes, It would make things a LOT easier, to get the BCM codes.
  18. @Cadillac Jim Is the BCM located near the glove box or behind the back seat? The common denominator in all the problems is the BCM. @Will needs to access the BCM and make sure the connectors, especially the GN connector, is not loose or damaged. Since the BCM controls the ground circuit I would pay close attention the that wire and its connector. I would do a drag test on all the female connectors at the BCM. I would also check the G104 ground and cable
  19. NP I read between the lines too...
  20. I didn't see a reply to the question about add-ons, anything about that?
  21. @Will Did you only check the fuses under the hood?
  22. As if the waters weren't cloudy enough I discovered this in the Owners manual.... (Stalk Disable): When Intellibeam™ has turned on the high-beams, pull or push the high-beam stalk. This will disable Intellibeam™. The Intellibeam™ indicator on the mirror will turn off. To re-enable Intellibeam™, press the Intellibeam™ button on the mirror. Is the turn signal "Stalk" sloppy?
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