Jump to content

OldCadTech

Registered
  • Posts

    1,091
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    61

Everything posted by OldCadTech

  1. My first guess would be that you left a ground wire disconnected. My second guess would be a pinched harness and or a disconnected sensor.
  2. Lance, If the engine was stored without spark plugs in a high humidity area it could have serious rusting and pitting of the cylinder walls. That said, You may WANT to dis-assemble the engine. You'll need to get the engine in a more stable position, either on an engine stand or on the floor/ground where you can get some torque on the crank. You can rent an engine stand at some auto parts stores, or invest in one. They are pretty much a necessity in engine swaps, TWO of them.... Of course there IS a fine line between the right amount of torque and too much, so, as @Bruce Nunnally stated there is an amount of luck involved. A ROCKING MOTION is what you want to create. Unfortunately the timing chain will be working against you because of the slack in the chain and gears. One option and the safest to prevent engine component damage is to disassemble the engine, clean, lube and re-assemble. Depending on your mechanical experience and tool level that may not be an option for you. As a side note, it doesn't require a lot of specialty tools to dis-assemble an engine and re-assemble it, again, most auto parts stores will rent them. Another option is to take the engine to a reputable, and trusted repair shop and have the engine work done professionally. This option may not sound like the best economical choice but it could be in the long run.
  3. Looks like there was more than one thread for this. @Bruce Nunnally or @BodybyFisher can you link this with the other one?
  4. Lance, I responded to the engine swap that you posted and I have a couple more questions... I made the assumption it was a long block. Yea I know about assumptions ? Does the crate motor have an oil pan installed? If not, this means a few more steps and it would be a LOT easier if you have the engine on a stand so you can rotate the entire engine assy. Is it a LONG block or a SHORT block? Basically, long blocks came with heads, short blocks did not... I would approach the seized long block differently than the seized short block. So it makes a big difference...
  5. The bad engine comes out, swap oil pans if new crate engine even has an oil pan. install new oil pump and pickup tube. The transmission bolt pattern should be the same.
  6. Lance, More than likely the cylinder walls and the rings are a little rusty. Is it on an engine stand? Does it move slightly or is it locked solid? Pull the spark-plugs if there were any installed, or the plastic caps and with an oil squirt can, squirt about a spoon full of engine oil in each cylinder and let it sit for about an hour. Try turning/rocking the crankshaft, if it won't move let it sit overnight and try again. If still no movement rotate the engine assembly so that one bank of cylinders is vertical, let it sit for an hour or so and then turn the engine so the other bank is vertical. Rinse & Repeat as needed. Once it starts moving, simply keep working it back and forth until you start getting complete revolutions, then you can go in the direction of normal rotation, CW if IRC
  7. Probably the most common is a defective blower module and then the blower motor itself. BUT, better to diagnose it and not throw parts at it.
  8. Is this the door "lock" signal wire? You may have to remove the door panel and connect directly to the wire at the actuator. @Cadillac Jim may be able to get a better location pinpoint and/or better circuit description from the FSM.
  9. Its asking you if you want to enter the PCM to look at the different parameters. If there is a code it will appear as P0300 for example. If you enter diagnostics and it goes directly to the PCM? there are no codes.
  10. Sorry, I'm not quite sure what the question is. PCM stands for Powertrain Control Module. What engine do you have? What is the code?
  11. First, check the trans fluid and make sure the TConverter fluid isn't mixed with the trans fluid. Second, I would check the main transmission harness & connector for pulled connectors or pinched wiring.
  12. Did you run the engine and observe the belt and pulley rotating? Could be the thermostat sticking or the bypass hose that goes to the coolant recovery/surge tank jar is restricted. The small hose that goes to the top of the coolant recovery jar can become restricted. When the engine is cool remove the recovery jar/radiator cap, smell the inside of the tank. Does it smell like exhaust? Make sure the coolant level with the engine cold, not running is about 2" below the bottom of the opening. Remove the 3/8" hose from the recovery jar and direct it towards the opening. Have someone start the engine and there should be full flow through the hose. If not you will need to remove the hose and remove the restriction. To fill the cooling system, be sure to use Dex-cool with a 50-50 solution of coolant and distilled water. You can use good, non-hard, drinkable water or use the premix solution. Could be something as simple as a defective recovery jar/surge tank cap not holding pressure. The cooling fans may not be coming on. If you don't find a "smoking gun" we'll have to get a lot more information on the symptoms
  13. The BCM is passenger side near the A pillar, slightly below and right of the glove box. I have done something similar with a Fluke 88 DVOM using the min max feature, but it is not a leave it on overnight kind of thing cuz the meter will auto - off. I have not used anything like what you have described though it sounds good in theory. I'm not sure how or what equipment would be needed to do that. Try to recall what happens the day before the vehicle would not start. Was it a lot of very short trips, long trips or was it a lot of accessory usage, such as defrost, a/c usage, blower motor running, night driving etc.. You will need a switch like the one above to do an accurate draw test though.
  14. Probably a lucky guess... Did you have the charging system tested? If I recall, you had varying voltage during driving. Not uncommon for the generators to stop charging as KHE experienced.
  15. A little trick I use so the solder points don't end up in a clump is to stagger the solder joints a little, That way the wires fit back into the wire conduit a LOT better.
  16. @Will How did the switch replacement go? Did it work?
  17. We only did one that way, we had long wires and a 9V battery to light it off. Since it was my repair order, I got to light it off. which also meant if anything went wrong I got the blame too. We had a test track on the dealership lot which covered almost the whole city block. So we had lots of space.
  18. Me too. I don't recall what year it was but Cadillac recalled a bunch of air bags because they would deploy while driving with no crash or SDM activation. We installed replacement modules and we were directed to deploy the air bags, which consisted of a box that supplied a voltage to the connector and the air bag pointed to the sky would deploy. OF COURSE if you must know, an air bag used as a launching device will achieve a height of about 40-50 feet. That was roughly calculated by it exceeding the height of the nearest 3 story building by quite a bit.
  19. I should have been more clear. I mainly meant damaged connectors at the BCM from pulled wiring. The air bag deployment is a tremendous force, they purposely are directed at the windshield and create a lot of down force on that dash carrier assembly. You're correct the BCM is protected in the corner but also it sounded like that area was torn into during the accident.
×
×
  • Create New...