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MAC

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Everything posted by MAC

  1. The wheels I purchased will show the lug nuts, so I have to buy the chromed or polished aluminium closed end. My main focus is getting the right size/length. I believe 19mm should be good, but I'm not sure. So I think I'm going to buy 12Mx1.50x19mm.
  2. Would anyone happen to know which lug nuts I should buy for OEM 18" polished aluminum rims. I was told by seller that the size is 12mm 1.50. I'm looking on ebay for a set of 20 but I'm not certain which ones to buy. Some are 19mm and are stated to fit 2005 STS.
  3. Jag läser min fabrik 1994 Cadillac Service Manual. Såvitt P052 och P109 är berörda, om dessa två koder med set batteriet har kopplats bort. Om batteriet kopplas bort under 20-30 minuter, kommer PCM s (Powertrain Control Module) långsiktigt minne återställs till ursprungsvärdet paramatets. Problemet utöver detta är att om dessa två medföljer motorn misständning och / eller snavar då det kan tyda på att det är förlust av makt till kretsen 840 eller jordanslutning 451 till PCM. PCM är eaily åtkomlig på passagerarsidan, under instrumentpanelen, på väggen bredvid där man skulle sätta fötterna. Den har tre harnIt skulle vara en bra idé att kolla PCM anslutningarna för att se att de är säkra. Om den tidigare ägaren var messing med PCM, kanske han inte gjorde att anslutningarna är täta. Den andra saken är att se till generatorns anslutningar är rena och täta eftersom P016 kan ställa om det finns en felaktig anslutning. Den P016-koden med set om "tändning spänningen sjunker under 10 volt, med motorn igång över 500 rpm eller går över 16 volt. Om tändspänning går till 0 (öppen krets), bilen med inte köras eftersom PCM inte har tändningen signalen. "(Källa: 1994 Service Manual) Förresten, om det slutar upp att vara en defekt PCM det inte skulle vara på möjligheterna. Jag ersatte faktiskt en PCM i min 1994 Eldorado. Men jag är inte beredd att säga att det är en dålig PCM tills andra möjligheter kontrolleras.
  4. The tire size of the OEM 18" wheels I bought is 235/50/18 (8-inch wide rim) all around. My current 17" tires are two different sizes: Front tires are: 235/50/17 (8-inch wide rim) Rear tires are: 255/45/17 (8.5-inche wide rim) So looking at the specs of my current tires and the tires on the 18" rims, I'm not sure what to expect since sidewall height with the 18" inch rims are not compromised. And the rear tires of my current 17" rims have lower sidewall height than the tires on the 18" rims. Another thing is that I will be able to rotate tires since the 18" rims are the same all around. One thing that comes to mind for me is that I hope the 18" rims are more pothole proof since I have replace 2 rims due to potholes and this last winter I hit a pothole that bent the left rear rim, which is leaking. Also, another pothole beatup the sidewall of the right front, which has a bulge. The tires I have on are Continential Extreme Contact, which I'm not too impressed by. I don't know if Michelin tires have tougher sidewalls and thus better more pothole proof, but I need to shop around for tires that aren't as susceptible to pothole damage. The problem with Michelin is that I can easily spend about $300 each for the OEM recomended Pilot MXM4 tire.
  5. I just purchased OEM 18 inch wheels off of ebay for my 2005 STS, which has performance (JE5) brakes and, as most of you are probably aware, the 18 inch wheels were an option (QF8 option). I'm curious if anyone has experience upgrading from 17 to 18 inch wheels and what was your assessment. By the way, I say "upgrading" loosley because some people may not view larger wheels as an upgrade, especially if ride comfort is sacrificed. To this end, I'm not sure if ride comfort will be sacrificed with larger wheels since, from what I have read, the quality of tires are more important to comfort than upgrading one more inch of wheel diameter.
  6. I agree with Jim. The broken part of the spring has an elongated hook that is connected to the parking brake arm. Just put you head under the dash area and look up at the parking break arm. You might actually see the broken part of the spring hanging. Given that you were hit in the leg by this spring indicates it's the parking brake spring. Also, you can try to manually move the parking brake arm. There should be tension on the arm. If the spring isn't replaced the arm will fall a bit and, from what I remember, the brake warning will light go on.
  7. The taillights are LED. From what I understand, if one LED goes bad then the whole row won't light. If you checked the harness and it's tight and the fuse is good, then you probably need a new light. Check ebay.
  8. Judging by the resotriation photos, the car was a total disaster by the early 1960, which makes the restoration job that much more remarkable.
  9. Good point! I owned a '94 Eldorado and know from experience that corrosion under the positive side (red) cable plastic covering can be a problem and can interfere with cranking.
  10. If coolant actually mixed with oil eventually you would notice there is something wrong, such as the engine running hot or is overheating since water in oil indicates blown headgasket(s). I notice the mechanic said that maybe coolant got into the motor, which would make me suspicious since I would think he wouldn't need to speculate about it. In other words, he would do a coolant pressure test and/or pull plugs--something! So I would be suspicious that maybe he is trying to convince me that the engine needs to be replaced or is need of major repair when it's not so bad. Also, I've never heard of an engine not being able to crank because of coolant in oil. If a headgasket is blown and multiple combustion chambers have water inside then it would be an easy diagnosis by pulling plugs.
  11. no i did not !!!!! i wont crank but did run good the previous day !!! so i just pulled it to garage !!!! Ulness the timing chain (which is metal) broke or the engine overheated and caused the engine to seize, it's odd that it won't crank uless there is an electrical problem. I take it that when you turn the key nothing happens? Is the battery still good?
  12. Why are the plug wire routed opposite of what they should be. I don't see any of the normal routing on the left side or the platic wire protector, and the wires are routed under the cover.
  13. Where is the plastic hose from the air filter leading to the air intake/manifold?
  14. Well, you can drop the strut and pull it off, and compress the spring with the strut off. Then use a griper pliers with a couple of layers of cardboard around the strut shaft to protect it. then loosen the nut. Make sure you secure the compressors correctly. Do not remove the nut with the strut pointing at you in case somethign goes wrong. Otherwise, if I remember correctly, you may be able to break the nut loose when there is torque on the strut. You just break it loose only. Obviously you cannot remove it until you have the spring compressed.
  15. I still have my 1994 OEM Service Manual and looked up the A/C system. The '94 should be similar, if not exactly like the '95. On the left side (driver's side), where heat blows out on the floor, there are two actuators for circulating air. These hoses are colored as follows: 1. Black hose to vaccum source; 2. Another black hose to parking brake; 3. Orange hose to Recirculating Air Door; 4. Red hose to Air 'DOWN' Door; 5. Yellow hose to Air 'UP' Door; 6. Blue hose to A/C Defroster Door. On the right side (passenger side) there is 'Programmer' that has 4 hoses connected to it. One black hose is connected to the orange hose (connected to Recirculating Air Door) and exits into the engine compartment to vacuum source. The hoses that are connected to the Programmer look as though they are routed under the Air Distributor Assembly, which is where air conditioned air exits. So, it looks like you need to remove the shift panel--after removing the shifter knob--then gently pry it up and it should pop off (careful not to crack it because its plastic simulated wood is over 10 years old). It looks like you will need to remove the Console which is the entire assembly that has the arm rest. It's fairly involved becuse you will have to remove some screws, etc. If I were you, I would buy an OEM Service Manual or go to Pepboys or another auto parts store and see if there is a manual that describes how to remove the Console, etc. in order to access the vacuum lines. Otherwise, at least get down where the heat exist to the floor and see if you can see anything obvious like a disconnected hose. I'm not even sure you will be able to see actuators. I used to own a '94 Eldorado and don't remember if the actuators were visible--I doubt they are?!
  16. I used to use DexCool because I figured it's OEM and as long as it's flushed and replaced as recommended, all should be fine. That was until the cap on my STS went bad which allowed air to infiltrate, causing DexCool to coat the coolant reservior with a coating of a white paste-like substance that was apparently caused by air infiltration. The white paste looked as though air mixed with DexCool, causing DexCool to emulsify--not completely, however, enough to cause a white past to buildup. After this experience, I flushed DexCool and replaced it with Prestone's 5-year Extended Life Antifreeze which, from what I understand, is very similar to DexCool in that it's a HOAT antifreeze and DexCool is an OAT antifreeze. So far Prestone has worked fine.
  17. I could be the surge tank cap is bad. This is what happened to me. Once the car is hot is will intermitentely stream water out of the overflow hose--obviously, because the coolant is getting too hot. But the cap could be alowing air to infiltrate causing it to overheat and/or allowing coolant to boil. Just a suggestion based on my experience.
  18. The CTS has been upgraded and refined so much it looks like it could be an updated STS.
  19. I haven't used PowerStop pads but I'm currently using ProStop Ceramic front end pads purchased from Pepboys. They are pretty good for mid-range as far as quality and cost under $60. I only bought them because I wasn't paying enough attention pad wear and ended up haveing to by them on short notice in order to save the discs. But the question is how long will they last?! My experience with these mid-range pads is that they don't last more than about 20K, if that much. But at least they give me good braking and I'll be more diligent as far as checking wear next time around and look to buy Akebono pads next time around or maybe just go back to ACDelco. Here is an article of someone who used ProStop pads in a track and reported the results: http://automotivethi...-to-brake-dust/
  20. My '05 STS 4.6L has the cable stick. But I'll confirm tomorrow.
  21. here is the natural gas Generac Guardian Series™ 5882 - 8kW Home Standby Generator for about $2,500. Here is a larger capacity Generac 27 Kw Natural Gas Home Generator on , which sells for about 10K. It's pretty loud. I would think an enclosure would be needed unless you could put it far enough away from home and neighbors.
  22. No problem. I was talking to a co-worker today and he mentioned that two people in his neighborhood had loud power generators that were a nuisance. He mentioned that he was going to purchase a generator that hooks right into the main power supply and will automatically turn on if power goes out. He said this type of generator is quieter but is quite expensive at about $1,500 or more. This sound like something you referred to regarding one that attaches directly to gas supply. I haven’t researched, so I’m not sure exactly what's out there regarding these types of home generators. Also, there is type of sheetrock called QuietRock that can be purchased through Lowes, which is on the same idea as Green Glue except it’s premade. This might be a better option than Green Glue for smaller jobs but it is more expensive at about $50 for a ½” thick sheet of 4’ X 8’. Both Green Glue and QuietRock are excellent products and will do the job. I know about these products because I’ve done research since I’m interested in doing home soundproofing. It just depends on whether you would rather use cement board for the interior walls, which may or may not be a good choice since the hard surface of cement board may reflect sound and compromise some sound deadening that would otherwise be obtained using QuietRock alone or two layers of typical sheetrock with Green Glue. Also, using Mass Load Vinyl can be used to deaden the lower frequency sounds.
  23. Here in Central NJ at about 7:50PM (Monday) is when Sandy hit, knocking out power. Electricity was resotred Thursday at about 3PM. I didn't work the entire week because I took Monday off and work electricity was not restored until Friday evening. My neighbor (I live in a condominium/townhouse complex) used a generator 24/7 and it was too noisy and actually inconsiderate. If you have a generator do your neighbors a favor and build a sound-deadening enclosure using Roxul Safe'n'Sound, which is essentially fireproof. It can be purchased at Home Depot. The exterior walls and cover could be plywood and interior walls and cover could be plywood and cement board with Green Glue in between to guard against fire. I would use Green Glue becuase it's an excellent product for soundproofing. I'm no expert here, just suggesting.
  24. It's possible the radiator cap is bad. I had this happen with my '05 STS. Replaced the cap and no more coolant leaking out the overflow tube. A bad cap can be one of those things that you wouldn't look for initially, which is exactly what happened in my situation. I was looking for the leak one day and pulled the overflow hose and saw it dripping coolant. Sometimes I would see a lot of coolant on the pavement and other times very little to nothing. Eventually it became worse and then I finally realized the cap could be bad.
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