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Everything posted by MAC

  1. There are two bolts on the back of the alternator. Regarding the bolt that was already backed-out of the manifold, it cannot be removed while the alternator is still in position. It can, however, be backed out allowing the alternator to be removed (See factory Service Manual pg. 6D3-12, See No. 12). This manifold bolt is one of two on the back of the alternator, which are secured to a bracket. Bolts are to be torqued to no more than 36 LBS. FT.
  2. Use a short wrench (I believe 13mm) to get at the two bolts on the back of the alternator. Once you loosen all the bolts sufficiently so the alternator can be moved a bit then you will be able to release some of the torque on the rear bolts and you may even be able to remove them without a wrench. You should protect the radiator with a piece of cardboard and drop the alternator out the bottom.
  3. For $799 you could purchase a complete set (front & back) genuine leather OEM replacement seat covers from Auto Interior and Upholstery.
  4. A 95 ETC for $3,500 with only 103K on it is not bad provided it doesn't have any major problems. Did you ask the owner if there are any trouble codes? If the leather can be restored and the body is in good condition then I could see spending $3,300. Even on ebay you won't find many low mileage Cadillacs for less than $3,500. A Cadillac that has about 100K and less I would consider low mileage if it's about 10 years or older. On ebay right now there is an AZ Eldorado for sale with 83K miles for buy now price of $6,950. Welcome to caddyInfo.com.
  5. You must be in shock! STS v. Honda Accord
  6. Can I replace my woodgrain shifter bezel in my '94 non-Touring Coupe Eldorado with a woodgrain shifter bezel from a '94 Touring Coupe? The non-Touring Coupe photo is not of my Eldorado but it has the same bezel as I have except mine has the woodgrain finish, which is the real wood laminate mounted on top with adhesive--The gray color is the same as my interior. The woodgrain bezel in the Touring Coup pic is the same type I want to use.
  7. I bought the Sony CDX-434RF in May 2000. I still have the receipt--it cost 229.99 w/o tax. It's brand new still in the original box. I might as well pay for installation at Best Buy. I just want it installed correctly without damaging anything.
  8. Is there a separate flasher for turn signals and emergency flasher? If so, I would check the flasher. Are you saying the flasher is clicking but the directional lamps don't light/blink? If both left and right outside lamps are not working I would tend to believe the problem is something other than the turn signal switch assembly. Are you sure the fuse is good. I would replace the fuse with a new one just to make sure.
  9. About 5 years ago I bought Sony CD changer at Best Buy which is just sitting in my closet. It's the kind with the corded remote. I've been wanting to install it but figured it would probably end up an all day job that I'm pretty much not interested in. I'm just wondering if anyone has installed a trunk-mounted CD changer and was it a difficult job? How would I go about installing my CD changer?
  10. I am too. It was apparent something was wrong but I didn’t think it could be a strut rod nut. When I checked the right side it was obvious the rod was loose as there was space between the inner bushing and the frame. I reached under to check to see how loose the nut was and noticed there wasn’t one. I’m going to check to see if my local Cadillac dealer can get a stock nut—assuming I can buy just the nut, I don’t want to spend $15—but I might just to keep it OEM.
  11. That's it! I lost a new bushing. But at least I found the problem and I'm safe. I did learn how important strut rods are to proper alignment. Losing a nut on a strut rod is downright dangerous. I was also wrong thinking it was the left side.
  12. I found the problem. The right side Control Arm insulator/bushing nut worked itself loose and fell off--also lost the retainer and bushing. So the control arm was loose, which explains the sudden movement of the front end. Before I left work I decided to make sure the wheel nuts were tight on both sides. Then checked the steering when backing out (turning fully to both sides) and noticed a rubbing sound on the right side--it was the rear part of the front tire rubbing on the plastic wheel well cover. Looked at the control arm and sure enough it was loose. I drove (very carefully) to Ace Hardware and luckily found a nut and used washers to take up the slack left by the missing bushing. Also lucky for me I bought an extra set of ACDelco bushings which includes retainers. Tonight I made the repair. How the nut worked loose, I don't know. I torqued it according to Service Manual specs. At any rate, I also used a lock washer when I made the repair. The originals didn't have a lock washer so I decided to leave like the original. The left side is fine.
  13. Not yet. But this weekend I certainly will. However, depending on how it drive's home I may have to take Friday off and check everything.
  14. If I slightly turn the wheel, particularly to the right, there is an unmistakable shift. It's as though alignment was suddenly lost causing the wheel to move. The movement is fast--actually, it's a bit unnerving as though something is about to give. I did take a look at the left front and the rotor didn't appear to be overheating. However, I have notice a bit of uneven braking from time-to-time. Also, the left front strut seems to be making a popping noise when the front end dips low upon braking. Then again, maybe it's not actaully the strut it's something else which is causing the problem. Thanks for the suggestion. I will keep it in mind.
  15. The front wheel on the left side is abruptly moving/shifting while driving causing the car to suddenly vear or shift to one side or the other. I replaced the bearing about 6 months ago. There is no obvious indication of what may be wrong. I'm going to check the wheel to make sure it's on tight. When I turn the steering wheel all seems fine. It's a bit unsettling to be driving and suddenly the left wheel abruptly moves as though there is a seized brake caliper piston; however, the shift will happen regardless of braking.
  16. You should see coolant in the tank. Just fill it to the top--any excess will be purged. Certainly Sears should and probably did follow manufacturers recommendations--if the coolant was actually changed that is. If it has not been change or the wrong type of antifreeze was used, I would flush and use the right type of antifreeze. Dexcool is orange in color and regular is green in color. If the antifreeze is low you should see a message flash telling you it's low. The trans dipstick is on the driver's side near the air box--I believe this is correct for your car.
  17. Here's a link to Valvoline's website and SynPower. Only one once is enough?
  18. Lately I've been adding a quart or two of diesel oil for the extra ZDP. Since my engine has over 219K miles on it I suspect it shouldn't matter whether I use dino without a ZDP supplement. On the other hand, since it's a high mileage engine more ZDP certainly won't hurt. Then again, the high mileage oils simply have extra ZDP. I remember this topic being discuss a while back and we were told the latest oil formulas have less ZDP, which I tend to think about when I buy oil. So, I'm not totally convinced there is sufficient ZDP in the latest oil formulas to fully protect a '94 Northstar. Nevertheless, name brand oils still state that they meet or exceed the SH or SG standards recommended for my Northstar.
  19. Do you have any example photos? It's tough to give you an opinion unless there is something to base it on.
  20. I'm glad I didn't see a similar diagram before I tried to replace my turn signal assembly because, if I did, I would probably still be driving around without a left side lamp.
  21. I've removed the steering wheel, etc. to replace the turn signal switch assembly and trust what you've been told about disarming the air bag. There is a procedure for disarming the air bag and accessing the column, including: 1. Disconnecting negative battery cable, pulling the SIR fuse and disconnecting the air bag harness, which is a yellow wire with a harness connection under the dash where the brake peddle is--that is, assuming your Concours has the same set up as my '94 Eldorado. 2. Then you would remove the air bag, which is likely mounted with four torx screws (if I remember correctly) from behind the steering wheel. 3. Then remove the steering wheel nut. 4. Then remove the steering wheel with a steering wheel puller. 5. Then remove the air bag coil assembly off the shaft by removing retaining ring with a snap plier. Of course you will need to disconnect the coil assembly wire, which is also yellow. There is another yellow coil wire behind the coil going down the column. 6. Then use wheel lock plate tool to remove the lock plate. 7. Then remove the turn signal assembly, which is secured by three screws. 8. And only then, if you know what you're doing, you should have access to the ignition switch assembly. This is meant to give you a basic understanding of what is involved. I don't know what is precisely involved with respect to your Concourse but I would imaging the job would be similar.
  22. I know it's too late but replacing the idler pulley from underneath the engine would have been easier because it gives a bit more maneuvering room. Trying to get a wrench or socket on the pulley bolt looking down is not the most convenient way. At least when I had to heat the bolt to remove the pulley I found that going from underneath made the task easier.
  23. I had the same thing happen but lucky for me I was able to drive to a nearby auto parts store and bought a belt to bypass the idler pulley and drove home. The bearings finally gave out and the pulley loosened causing the belt to fall off. A new pulley was about $16 and the belt was about $25. The pulley was a pain to get off, which is why I couldn't do the repair in the parking lot. I finally replaced it but I had to use a propane torch to heat the bolt just enough to back it out.
  24. If you're thinking pulled head bolts caused the head gasket to fail I doubt your assumptions are correct. It's possible that "thermal fatigue" and/or neglected antifreeze caused the head gasket to fail. In fact, the older the Northstar the more likely head bolts will bond or lock with the aluminum block--The Guru (GM engineer) called this "galvanic activity." Poobah hit the nail on the head when he mentioned repeated heating and cooling of the engine (thermocycling) as a possible cause of a blown head gasket. I don't know about fire rings in particular but in general the head gasket would be the weak point not the head bolts. Thermal fatigue, however, is not an overarching concern. The Northstar cooling system is very efficient. One of the most important factors to a long lasting engine is maintaining antifreeze, i.e. change coolant at least as recommended and make sure thermostat is working properly.
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