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MAC

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Everything posted by MAC

  1. Last week I ran into a problem with my right turn signal (2005 STS) not working. Before then, the signal would work intermittently, particularly after replacing front brakes. After replacing the bulb and checking the wires, still no turn signal. I Googled to try to find out what could be the problem and found out that the sockets on the '05 can fail due to thermal damage since the running lights were designed to stay one when headlights are off, which increases the duty cycle. The same problem can also occur with the '06. GM issued a bulletin about the sockets being a problem. When trying to figure it out, my last resort was to inspect the harness that is connected to the turn signal assembly. And sure enough, I discovered the problem. The connection was contaminated with dirt. The reason why the turn signal would act up after replacing the breaks is because I rattled the connection. I almost didn't check the connection because it looked to be tight and I figured chances are it's either a short or the socket. But, common sense prevailed (Actually, Thank You!, Lord Jesus), and at the last moment I decided to check it. Glad I did!
  2. Hi, BigRic When I first discovered CaddyInfo I waited about 9-10 months before signing up. Back then the software was basic text posts. But what this site has always had going back to when I first became a member--and I'm sure long before--are very knowlegable people that are always willing to help.
  3. I take it that you have made sure the keyfob battery is good. And I also take it that you have more than one keyfob and both do not work. From what I understand, the problem could be that the micro-switch in the door(s) may need to be replaced. Below is a link to a video about the CTS' micro switch. I don't speak from experience, so don't take my word for it. I'm just giving you a heads-up as far as what might be the problem. Also, I suggest you read the video's comments--maybe you can find additional info. that could help you diagnose the problem. The only other obvious possibility is the keyfob itself unless you have two that don't work--then this is unlikely to be the problem. Cadillac CTS Door Handle Repair (Micro Switches Replacement, 2nd Gen)
  4. Check the engine craddle to make sure bolts are tight and for rust/deterioration, particularly rear bolts and bushings.
  5. Promblems could be: 1. Bad battery ground; 2. During repairs, connections to alternator and/or battery not properly secured; 3. Battery or ignition fuse(s) blown (use Owner's Manual in glove box to determine where fuses are and check); 4. Positive/negative battery connection(s); 5. Starter; 6. Security system problem. Best chance of determining what's going on is to see if there is a trouble code(s).
  6. Probably air in the system. Bleed the coolant air purge line.
  7. If the P0496 code is intermittent, it could be caused by a damaged or sticking EVAP canister purge solenoid valve. Here is a YouTube video that shows how to replace the purge valve. The car is listed as a 2006 STS. Looks like a V6. PO496 Evap System Flow During Non-Purge Cadillac STS
  8. Som Jan Olsson nämnde, minns jag ganska många som rekommenderar användning av dieselolja, till exempel Shell Rottela, eftersom den är gjord med mer ZDDP än konventionell bil olja och de som använder det i allmänhet känns det håller motorerna renare och är bättre lämpad att göra motorer sista längre. När jag ägde min 1994 Eldorado 2004-2009, använde jag vanlig 10W-30 med rätt tillstånd och allt var bra. Så länge oljan som används har fått betyget för just din bil bör det inte vara ett problem. Men det finns de som använder diesel, som Rotella, och tror att dess övergripande en bättre olja även för bensinmotorer. Det är en ganska följande ute för dieselolja i bensinmotorer. As Jan Olsson mentioned, I remember quite a few people recommending using diesel oil, such as Shell Rottela, because it's made with more ZDDP than conventional car oil and those who use it generally feel it keeps engines cleaner and is better suited to make engines last longer. When I owned my 1994 Eldorado from 2004 to 2009, I used regular 10W-30 with the proper approval and all was fine. As long as the oil used is rated for your particular car there shouldn't be a problem. But there are those who use diesel, such as Rotella, and think its overall a better oil even for gasoline engines. There is quite a following out there for diesel oil in gasoline engines.
  9. I refilled with 5 quarts of Walmart's Super Tech Dexron VI, 2 quarts of Super Tech Dexron III, and 2 quarts of Super Tech High Mileage fluid--all compatible with GM vehicles. My initial thought was that I was going to do two fluid changes because I figured I would only get about 5 quarts max out of the pan. But when I unscrewed the drain plug the fluid poured out about 9 quarts. The second change would be with high quality brand name fluid and maybe an addative. As far as sediment, I was quite surprised that there was only a thin layer of gray sediment on and near the magnet in left rear corner of the pan. I used paper towels to wipe the pan clean.
  10. The pan has a slight raise line of metal that apparently prevents leaking. Other than that, I don't know. If there was a gasket at one time, it wasn't there when I dropped it, and no doubt the pan would have leaked if it had a gasket, which was falling apart. I have yet to see a drop of trans fluid on the ground even though there isn't a gasket.
  11. Where you been?? Don't remember seeing you around lately... Hey, Jim. Hope all is well with you! I've been around. I come to the forum from time to time and will post if I feel I can be of some help. Since I own the '05 STS, I don't do as much work on it--except I am having a transmission hard shift problem that I think is related to either the trans Shift Control Module (needs to be reprogrammed) or the Throttle Body Position Sensor. I replaced the Throttle Body a couple of years ago, but after doing some more research it appears it may be a electrical connection problem. Anyway, I'm going to have to check it out over the weekend. My STS officially broke 250K miles and I plan on keeping it until the wheels fall off because I don't want to spend 15-20 grand on a used lower mileage STS. Right now I'm still into Cadillac. Though it has crossed my mind to try out a BMW 740--however, I would rather stick with American made.
  12. I just replaced my trans fluid and filter a couple of months ago. Took at least 2 hours because it was the first time and it is a pain to refill with 9 quarts. I used mostly Dex VI. The pan had no gasket at all. The filter came with a rubber gasket but I threw it out, figuring I would just bolt the pan back on the way it came off. And sure enough no leak.
  13. Did you see that "SOME MACHINING IS REQUIRED"?
  14. I would go with Michelin. I think Michelin are the best tires. I tried Continental Extreme Contact tires and I'm not impressed to the point that I would recommend them. Not that they are bad tires, just not impressive to the point that they are anything special. Recently I bought 19-inch rims off of ebay, which also came with Michelin tires with 60-70% tread life. Now that I've put thousands of miles on them I'm convinced that it's better to buy Michelin even though they are going to be more expensive. Michelin traction is good, tires are quiet, and the sidewall strength is excellent. I've hit some potholes with the Michelin tires without damaging them. However, I can't say the same for the Continental tires, as the right front sidewall broke and bubbled out after hitting a pothole. Don't forget, you get what you pay for!
  15. I agree with rockfangd. Buy a new radiator cap. I had the same problem and it turned out the cap needed to be replaced. Not saying this is definitely the problem, but it's worth a try and not expensive.
  16. I don't believe there is a poly bushing kit available--just not enough demand--and poly bushings may be too hard anyway. You may be able to buy poly strut bushings that are the approximate diameter and make them work with Torque Strut Mounts. But new Engine Torque Strut Mounts are cheap at about 14.00 each and the rubber is softer to absorb shock. Once or twice a year spray the rubber with some protectant.
  17. Because of so many codes, plus the EEPROM Checksum Error, I'm thinking the EEPROM or PCM might have went bad. I suggest trying to reset the PCM to default parameters by disconnecting the battery for about 15-20 minutes. Some say you can reset by disconnecting both positive and negative battery cables and touching them together for a few seconds. Again, both cables MUST be completely disconnected. I have never tried this method, so I'm not sure if it works. But I do know that disconnecting battery for about 15-20 minutes does work. But before you try the reset, clear all the codes. EEPROM means: Electrically-Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory module.
  18. Well, braking is real good with EBC, but I must admit that they are dusting quite a bit. I also must say that out of all the brakes I have used, ACDelco ceramic pads have been the best as far as the least amount of dusting. Also, the ACDelco pads have good bite as well. I'll continue to run with EBC, but if dusting continues to be where it is now, next time I'll go back to ACDelco.
  19. I installed EBC Green Stuff brake pads on front and rear and must say they are better than OEM. So far, bite is excellent and I'm using less effort to stop. I just put them on today, so I'll wait another week before I give an update. If they continue to be as good as they are now I don't see any reason to buy anything else. The big test as far as I'm concerned is whether they produce less dust, which is one of the selling points.
  20. When I wash my car I'll take a photo. I stand corrected about the size of the tires, which are 255/45/18 and 235/45/18. Obviously, the 255s goes on the rear. Currently I have one of each on front and back, which is why my steering seems a bit awkward. I put them on at night and thought I saw them advertised as being the same size all around. On Saturday I have to do a brake job, so I'll switch them then. I bought EBC Green Stuff brakes for front and back which get excellent reviews for stopping power and low dust.
  21. The 18" OEM wheels are on. Compared to the 17" wheels the ride is better. I know you may not believe it because generally it's believed that bigger wheels automatically mean a less comfortable ride--Not true in my case! The 18" wheels seem to handle bumps better. The wheels also came with Michelin tires, so this is likely to be one reason since Michelin is one of the best, if not the best tires out there. But the ride is that much more noticeably better on bumps, so 18" wheels are fine and look better too. All tires are 235/45/18.
  22. I don't see any codes listed. As far as hard shifting, check the Transmission Control Module. It may need to be replaced or reprogrammed. This is something a Cadillac dealership should check. I understand that you can reset everything by disconnecting battery cables and holding them together for about 5-10 seconds. But I have not done this, so I suggest doing some research about it. My research indicates this is correct.
  23. Welcome to the forum. I think you will like the Deville long term. It's big and, from what I understand, rides nice and smooth.
  24. This might be of some interest--a website devoted to wheel adapter, including 6-lug to 5-lug: http://adaptitusa.com/6-lugto5-lugadapters.aspx Here is one that is 6x114.3 to 5x115" http://adaptitusa.com/6-lugto5-lugadapters.aspx Maybe adapters will work? Here is a website that looks to have 6x115 to 5x115. st. http://www.shop.adapterkings.com/product.sc?productId=16 Just chose the specs in the drop-down list.
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