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MAC

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Everything posted by MAC

  1. UPDATE: I received e-mails from a Timken representative who expressed concern over my dissatifaction with the Timken rear hub made in Korea. I was advised that there will be an internal investigation to determine whether the threaded hole that is currenly missing from the Korean-made hub will be added to future production runs. Nevertheless, I was also assured that Timken stands by the "safety, craftsmanship and performance" of the Korean hub, in that it will live up to Timken standards. I believe the threaded hole will be added to the hub, particularly in light of the fact that the front U.S.-made hub Timken makes for the same vehicle includes the threaded hole. In my opinion, if the threaded hole is not added to future runs, I don't see how Timken can stand behind the craftsmanship claim when only the Korean hub is allowed to be produced lacking the OEM spec threaded hole. However, the front and rear U.S.-made hubs that Timken sells for the same vehicle do include the threaded hole. Regardless, I still would not want the Korean hub(s) due to different bearings being used between it and those manufactured in the United States. I don't like to see inconsistency, as it makes me wonder about quality. In this case, about the quality of the hub I received that was made in Korea. Also, there are critical reviews of Korean-made hubs by some who have posted in Internet forums, which make me suspect there is a quality difference between hubs made in the U.S. and Korea regardless of Timken's assurances. My view is that overall specs and specs of parts used should be consistent and should of course meet OEM specs regardless of country of manufacture. In my opinion, Timken should stay with a single winning combination and don't deviate unless or until it can be improved.
  2. Attached is a scan of the back of the Korean made Timken hub with my obervations. The bearing of this Korean made Timken hub is recessed inside the sleeve because it has a lip extending upwards making it necessary to press the bearing so it does not extend beyond the sleeve's edge. The same U.S. made Timken hub does not have a lip, so the bearing is pressed so it is flush with the sleeve's edge.
  3. Attached is a scan of the front of the Korean made Timken hub with my obervations. The studs used in this Korean made Timken hub are inferior to the studs use to make the same U.S. made Timken hub. The studs of the Korean made hub are shorter and do not have a non-threaded portion which is used to assist in aligning lug nuts. The same U.S. made Timken hub has OEM studs with the non-threaded portion. Also, the Korean made hub does not have a threaded hole next to a stud, which is used to secure the brake disc/rotor. However, the same U.S. made Timken hub does have a threaded hole consistent with OEM specs. Here is a link to the same Timken hub that is made in the U.S. This link shows the hub that I received which has the hologram (color changing) label. Notice the difference between the Korean made hub and this one.
  4. I tend to think it was indeed made in Korea. I Googled 'Timken hubs and Korea' and came accross several complaints that Korean made Timken hubs are inferior quality. I received a nice e-mail from AutoZone advising that I can return the hub to a local store, which I'm going to do tomorrow. However, I don't know if the local AutoZone store will be in a position to be able to order a replacement American made Timken hub since it's considered to be special order. But...This is only speculation, as I will soon enough find out what can and can't be done. One thing for certain is that I will not accept a Korean made hub and AutoZone must guarantee that it will fullfill my request for an American made hub in exchange. If not, I will seek a refund on grounds that the Korean hub is defective, which it is.
  5. This morning I noticed that even the Timken box the Korean hub came in has washed out color compared to the one made in the U.S. Another sign that it just might be a fake.
  6. I bought the hubs from AutoZone and they were shipped from a warehouse in Memphis, TN.
  7. You might very well be right about your suspicions that it's fake. I contacted Timken and I'm curious to see if someone will respond and show concern. As a reputable company, I think someone from Timken will contact me.
  8. When I didn't see a color changing sticker it crossed my mind that I might have counterfeit. However, Timken does have their products manufactured at various locations worldwide and the hub is stamped with "IJ123080 KOREA" on it. If it was a fake, I would think it wouldn't say Korea. I think it's more like an inspector from Timken needs to get over to the Korean factory. One thing for sure, the Korean hub is not going on my car.
  9. I just went to Timken's website and contacted them about this matter.
  10. Today I received two Timken rear wheel hub assemblies for my 2005 STS. I planned to replace both original hubs over the weekend. However, to my disappointment, one of the hubs is made in the United States while the other is made in Korea. Below is a list of problems with the one made in Korea: 1. Inferior studs, as the studs used are shorter because they do not have the initial non-threaded area which is used to align lug nuts before torquing them down; 2. The bearing is resessed substantially more inside the bearing sleave than the one made in the United States, which means the hub made in Korea does not mirror the specs of the hub made in the United States; 3. The hub does not have a threaded hole next to a stud, which is used to secure the brake disc; and 4. The box the hub came in does not have an official Timken color changing sticker indicating it is an official Timken product. Needless to say, I'm seeking authorization to return the Korean-made hub and have it replaced with one made in the United States. By the way, Timken is an American company that has a reputation for quality. However, after recieving the Korean hub that is clearly not made to the same specs as the U.S. hub, I'm dissapointed that Timken would allow such an inferior product. I am seriously considereing sending a letter to Timken about this matter. While both hub assemblies cost the same, the one that is made in Korea is not made to the same specs as the U.S. made hub, which should be comletely unacceptable to Timken. My advice to anyone looking to buy Timken is to specifically advise that you want only U.S. made. You may get the run around, as in you may be told that it's not possible to guarantee such a thing; however, you should insist or go somewhere else or buy a different brand.
  11. What was the symptom with the power steering that required replacement of the pump? One day while pulling into a parking spot it suddenly became difficult to turn the steering wheel. I didn't hear anything and there wasn't any warning that something was about to give. Something inside the pump just gave out.
  12. It seems there are not many honest mechanics. I need to buy tires and need front end aligned. I hestitate to have someone do the alignment because the steering wheel needs to be straightend along with the alignment. So, I'm thinking of doing the alignment myself via the string method, just to make sure the steering wheel is properly aligned. Then bring it to a Cadillac dealership to check to make sure it's okay. I don't want to get my car back only to find that my request for a steering wheel alignment was ignored. I replaced both the inner and outer tie rods and both front hubs, so obviously the alignment needs to be taken care of.
  13. I thought I had JE5 brake discs but after putting on one of the Duralast disc I bought from AutoZone, I was concerned that I bought the wrong size. The Duralast was obviously bigger than what was on the car. I'm thinking, it looks like the caliper bracket may not fit. So, I put the disc on--and thought--WOW! That is one pretty big disc! But, what do you know, the bracket fit with about 1/16 to 1/8-inch to spare. Apparently, the discs that were on were not the right ones, which explains why my brakes are gouged/grooved on the inside. The rotors I replaced didn't have enough surface area to accommodate the larger JE5 brakes. I suspected something wasn't right and now the new discs confirm that I was driving around with undersized discs. What else, since the Duralast discs are for JE5 brakes, have more surface area, and fit. My guess--and most logical answer--is that the original factory discs were replaced before I bought the car with the wrong ones. Now I have to replace the brakes a soon as possible, so I don't damage the discs. I also have Duralast on the rear. So far, so good. They are holding up well after at least 6 months.
  14. Just curious about how many know about Plasti Dip and what you think of it. I've watched several Youtube videos and it looks pretty interesting. The only downside that I can see is that it doesn't look as glossy (even with the glosifier) as factory paint. A number of videos show some expensive cars being painted with Plasti Dip. But it's not as glossy as factory paint, even if painted by a professional. It looks like a cheap way to paint a car on a budget.
  15. This sounds like it could be one of the inner tie rods popped out. If so, it's something that won't be seen because the inner tie rod boots (No. 9 in the diagram) will mask the problem. I'm speculating that the reason why the steering wheel has to be turned 180 is because the only thing that is connected to the broken tier rod is the boot. The boot is like an accordian and when it is finally extended all the way the wheel then is able to turn. If the boot tears, then you will see if indeed the problem is an inner tie rod. Regardless, Whatever it is, this is a car that shouldn't be driven until reparied.
  16. Check the ABS fuse and make sure it's making a good connection. Also, a bad EBCM ground could be causing the problem.
  17. I owned a '94 Eldorado and can tell you that there was some play in the front Drive Axles. The axles are made to be able to slide on 6 roller bearings within the transaxle based on road conditions. And when the car was jacked up there was also some back and forth play that was not necessarilly related to a U-joint being worn. The way to check for a worn U-joint with these axles is to know the ovbious signs. Simply feeling play may give a false positive. I replaced one shaft due to a worn U-joint. It was somewhat tedious because I removed the Control Arm bolt so I could pull the strut away to remove the shaft from the hub assembly. Since downward pressure is exerted on the strut assembly by the spring, it was a bit time consuming to re-align the Control Arm bolt holes.
  18. I couldn't believe what I did. It was one of those take a deep breath and tell yourself not to freak out momements.
  19. I just want to give some incite regarding how to replace the power steering pump in the '05 STS, which may be the same going into 2007 up to perhaps 2009. Many have complained that it's difficult to impossible to remove the high pressure side connection, so they end up looking for advice or bringing their STS to a garage. I just replaced my pump today. Here are the steps: 1. After removing the engine left and middle plastic covers, remove the air filter cover, air filter, and inlet duct leading to the throttle body. (Note: make sure to remove the MAP sensor harness first) Notice that once the above is removed you will be able to clearly see the high side connection; 2. Drain the power steering fluid reservoir. Be aware that there will still be residual fluid. After draining, if the cap is placed back on the reservoir it will hinder fluid draining. 3. Remove the serpentine belt from the pump. Use a breaker bar and insert the socket end into the square hole on the tensioner pulley and pull or push towards the driver's side fender thereby releasing tension on the belt. 3. Disconnect the fluid reservoir from the engine by removing the two 10mm nuts that secure it (Note: Unless you have an air tool, you will have to remove the reservoir, so you can at least get it out of the way); 4. Believe it or not, the pump pulley does not necessarily have to be removed before removing the pump; however, if you plan on removing the high pressure side without an air tool, then I suggest removing the pulley first. To remove the pulley, you will have to rent or purchase the right tools, such as Wilmar W87022 GM Power Steering Pump Pulley, which is low end, but will do the job. If you don't know how to use the pulley tools, I suggest you watch a couple of Youtube videos. 5. Once the pulley is removed it's time to remove the high pressure side connection. You will have to rent or buy an 18mm crowfoot wrench. Do not use this! Instead, buy one like this! Notice the second one has 4 sides and the top is partially closed. This is the type that will provide the necessary leverage needed to remove the nut. The first one will likely slip under high torque and could possibly round off the nut. Then I suggest that you buy a 3/8 socket wrench extension set, such as an inexpensive Stanley or this Bostich locking extension set, which is what I purchased at Walmart and must say I like it. Also, keep handy a couple other 3/8 extension bars that you may already have. I was able to remove the high pressure nut by using a 1/2 breaker bar with a 3/8 adapter, along with enough extension bars to raise the breaker bar above the engine while the crow foot wrench is securely on the nut. The reason I said to remove the power steering fluid reservoir is because it will be in the way of having a straight line up from the nut. Once the pulley and reservoir is out of the way, you will have a comfortable straight line down to the nut and accordingly can place the crowfoot on the nut and apply the necessary torque using a breaker bar. Once the crowfoot is securely on the nut you need to apply slow even and increasing torque on the nut until it breaks loose. If you have the crowfoot on correctly and have a comfortable straight line leading up to the breaker bar, you should be able to apply the necessary torque to break the nut loose--even if you have to use some of your body weight in a controlled manner until the nut breaks loose. 6. Once the high pressure side nut is removed, you should then remove the pump. (Note: There will be a small bracket with a 10mm nut that secures the high pressure line to the pump. Don't worry about it until you remove the two (2) 16mm bolts that secure the pump). One is easily removed from the front, but the other is on the left (driver's side) of the pump, which is bolted to the engine. Use a flashlight if need to see it. It's a little awkward to get at but you will be able to get a socket on it with a short extension. You may also be able to unscrew it by hand as well. 7. Once the pump is removed use a 10mm combination wrench to remove the nut that secures the high side line to the pump or a small 1/4-inch socket wrench. Gently pull the pump forward a little to get easy access to the nut. If you buy a inexpensive 1/4 socket set with a small socket wrench (the El cheapo $5 set you can buy at Home Depot, you can use it here because it's small and convenient). 8. Once the pump is removed, notice the bracket needed to secure the left side bolt may not come with your new pump. It's secured with 3 bolts to the back of the pump. You may need to transfer it to the new pump. 9. When it's time to install the new pump there are some things to be aware of: i) thread the high pressure line into the new pump first because you will be able to maneuver the pump whichever way necessary to cleanly thread the nut; ii) absolutely make sure you know which side of the pulley is the front (facing you), which is the side that has the fitting/lip necessary to pull the pulley off. I suggest you mark the front of the pulley with a strip of black electrical tape or something, so you don't make the mistake of getting tired and installing the pulley backwards--like I did. I installed the pulley 2/3 of the way backwards and finally figured out what I did after it wouldn't go on any further. I was tired and my brain locked up which left me open to making this silly mistake. I ended up having to use my breaker bar by putting the bar behind the pulley on the left side and pulling it forward--applying high pressure and rotating the pulley many times and repeating this process until it came off. After bending the pulley in numerous places, I then bought a used pump with a pulley. I pulled the used pulley and gave it another successful try after learning a lesson; iii) when installing the pulley, you have to make sure the top of the pulley hole is flush with the top of the pump shaft. To understand what I mean, take a look at the pulley and pump shaft and note how far the pulley is on the shaft--you will see it's flush; and iv) the tool needed to put the pulley on may be awkward to work with because the bolt that is threaded into the pump shaft may loosen. You do not want that bolt to loosen to the point that it eventually is barley hanging on, which means it may pull out of the pump shaft which will strip the outer threads. So be aware of this and make sure the bolt is not unscrewing as you are pressing the pulley on the pump. The shaft threads are 3/8 in. x 16 NC. 10. Once the pump is on, it's time to secure the reservoir and hoses put everything back together. I would take note of the high pressure side rubber hose to determine if it should be replaced. It's inexpensive, so this would be a good time to install a new one. Also, note whether the new pump is blasts holes into the power steering lines. If the lines are deteriorated the new pump may supply more pressure than the worn out lines are capable of handling. 11. Bleed the system by removing the low pressure side line and fill the reservoir to the FULL COLD level. Raise both wheels of the front end and put on jack stands or use two heavy duty jacks. With the reservior filled with fluid to proper level, turn the steering wheel fully back and forth 12 times, making sure fluid remains filled to proper level. Afterwards, reconnect the low side line. Start the engine and note whether there is any indication of air such as noise or whining. If so, repeat the bleeding procedure. This is the process which the GM's 2006 STS factory Service Manual provides (See Volume 1, page 2-10).
  20. Check out this post: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=44065&p=223148
  21. Well, it’s time I replace the inner and outer tie rods, the left and right front hub assembly (and maybe rear hubs), and buy new tires before winter. The tie rods are Moog and the hubs are Timken. I’m going to address the alignment (toe in) problem before I spend $800 or more on new tires. I don't think the hub(s) are a problem at this time; however, since my STS has over 250K miles, I’m thinking I’ll just replace them before they give out. The new tires I'm considering is either the Michelin Pilot MXM4 or the Bridgestone DriveGuard tires I stumbled on, which look like a good possibility. The DriveGuard (reviewed in Car and Driver) has the latest technology and supposedly do not compromise ride comfort for a "run-flat" tire, can be purchased with tread life of 60K, are all-season tires, and will go 50 miles on no air. I thought about buying a newer used Cadillac (another STS) but decided to run this one for at least another 3-5 years. It's not perfect, but I'm still way ahead of the game if I simply replace the rods, hubs and tires even with high mileage. If I can get another 100K, I'll go for it.
  22. In 2005 there were two packages for the STS V8: 1. Luxury Performance Package ("LPP") (1SF) costing $11,055. Luxury Performance Package (1SF) (includes 1SE equipment and adds the following): Bose 5.1 Studio Surround, DVD, Navigation Ventilated Seats Tire Pressure monitoring Performance brakes Performance cooling Limited slip differential Decklid spoiler Uplevel Wood Trim Package MR Suspension HID headlamps Intellibeam Rainsense wipers Sunroof XM Satellite radio Total for LPP options: Base price of $58,560 + 11,065 = $69,625. However, if you also wanted to buy the "Free Flow Options" with this package you could spend another $3,600 for options, including: 1) Tuscany leather ($1,200); ACC/HUD ($2,300); and 3) Engine block heater ($100). 2. Premium Luxury Performance Package ("PLPP") (1SG), which was $13,115. Premium Luxury Performance Package (1SG) (includes 1SE equipment and adds the following): Bose 5.1 Studio Surround, DVD, Navigation Ventilated Seats Tire Pressure monitoring Performance brakes Performance cooling Limited slip differential Decklid spoiler Uplevel Wood Trim Package 18" polished wheels MR Suspension 3.42 Final Drive ZF steering gear HID headlamps Intellibeam Rainsense wipers Sunroof XM Satellite radio Tuscany leather Total for PLPP options: Base price of $60,610 + 13,115 = $73,725. However, if you also wanted to buy the "Free Flow Options" in addition to the equipment included with the PLPP, you could spend another $5,095.00 for options, including: 1) All-wheel drive ($1,900); 2) ACC/HUD $2,300; 3) Performance Handling Package "(includes Michelin Pilot summer-only tires and uplevel performance brakes) ($795); and 4) Engine block heater ($100). Note: The information above is based on original documents in my glove box.
  23. I would take another look at door weather stripping or perhaps a door needs adjustment to seal better. One idea would be to buy weather stripping with adhesive back at Home Depot or Lowes and see if you can apply it in such as way to bolster efficacy of door weather stripping just to see if it solves the problem. Edited: Another idea is to seal the door with masking or duct tape. If the whistle stops then I think you have your answer.
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