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MAC

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Posts posted by MAC

  1. Cadillac needs a gas/electric hybrid like the Lincoln MKZ Hybrid.  I recently bought a 2011 MKZ Hybrid. Very nice, but it does lack a few features my former '05 STS has, such as:

    1. You need a key to unlock and start.  There is a keypad; however, it is really nothing more than a backup way to unlock in case for some reason key is locked inside.  I have to physically lock door because it does not have automatic door locking system and no fob that allows easy access;

    2. THZ audio system is not as good as Bose;

    3. I like Cadillac's navigation British lady who gave me driving directions.  The MKZ navigation voice feature is not the most warm and friendly sounding.  Also, if you deviate from the set navigation route it may not reset navigation based on current location.  This, to me, is a major issue with Ford's navigation--at least this is my experienced based on a trip.  Luckily, I knew where I was at, so I ignored navigation and cancelled it.

    4. The MKZ has slow acceleration given it has a 2.5L coupled with an electric motor for a total of only 191 hp.  Then again, I am getting over 35 mpg, so this is the obvious trade off; 

    5. Trunk is smallish because battery pack is located behind rear seat;

    Overall the MKZ Hybrid is a nice car.  It gets good reviews.  In 2013, styling was changed to the current version which does not get any better gas mileage then the 2011, which was the first year for the MKZ hybrid.

    Cadillac needs to catch up by developing a semi-luxury or luxury gas/electric hybrid like the MKZ. 

     

     

  2. Here is a link to a website that fixes Cadillac OEM radios. Cadillac Bose Amplifier / Speaker and Stereo Repair 

    Here is a link to same website's homepage: Factory Car Stereo Repair, Inc.

    I suggest you call and/or submit a request for a quote to see if your radio is one that can be fixed. It may be something minor.  No power and glitching out may be nothing more than a defective switch.  You will never know unless you give it a try.

  3. I'm not sure what the problem is with the original radio but here is a link to a short discussion about the 2008 CTS radio and one possible fix.  It seems the best way to deal with this situation is to fix the radio.

    Quote

    Bose SiriusXH radio no sound 2008 CTS Cadillac. The system lights up on 2008 Cadillac CTS

    If I turn the car off and wait for @4 t0 5 minutes, and restart the engine every thing is fine. this will happen about twice a week I get a little static and the radio stops. When the radio stop the OnStar will not work nor will the door chimes. I have had this car for 18months this problem is only just began for about a month. Its a Bose system. Everything work great after I restart the car engine,

    Asked by for the 2008 Cadillac CTS
    Condition
    Some customers may comment on the following concerns during a key cycle. The audio returns after the vehicle is turned off for several minutes (10 minutes or more). This allows the amplifier to shut down completely and reset.

    •No audio from the radio.
    •Door ajar chime inoperative.
    •Turn signal click clack sound inoperative.

     
    Cause
    These conditions may be caused by a software anomaly.
    Reprogram the audio amplifier with the latest software available on TIS2WEB.
    Do not replace the audio amplifier or radio for these conditions.

    Good luck

     

  4. Below I quote information I found regarding the 3.6L CTS engine, which says it is indeed an interference engine:

    Quote

    The 3.6L Engine found in the Cadillac CTS, SRX, STS, and various other GM vehicles is a great engine. But they have issues with timing chains, needing replacement. Here at Northstar Performance, We have experience in repairs of the 3.6L (named the High-Feature engine). Most shops charge around $2,000-$2,500 to replace these chains. We offer the repair for $1,200.00 including the new GM timing chains and lower sprocket set. (longitudinally mounted engines only).

    While we're in there we also take care of a few things that are common with this engine: We clean out the PCV system and ports, replace the intake and valve cover gaskets, and if you would like, we can replace the spark plugs at no charge for labour (just pay for the spark plugs). If you need new belt tensioners, alternator, or new serpentine belts, again- no charge for labour just the parts.

    My neighbour and my girlfriend inspired me to offer this service; both having issues with their CTS and SRX. Please check for availability, we are usually pretty busy with the Northstars.

    One thing I must stress heavily: If you begin to hear engine noises, ticking, rattling, etc.... and it gets pronounced, simply STOP driving the car. If you don't, and a timing chain or sprocket breaks, the valves will meet the pistons. This is an interference engine, and the repairs will probably double in price, if the engine can even still be saved.

    Also: If you're following the OLM (Oil Life Monitor) when it comes to oil changes, I highly suggest ignoring that and going back to 3,000 mile (5,000 kilometer) oil change intervals. Oil is cheap, timing chains are not. The orfices where oil flows through on this engine are very, very small. If any sludge begins to build up, these orfices become plugged and parts are no longer getting the oil they need.

     

     

  5. If radio fuse is removed and then reset anti-theft, maybe it will start.  Below is a procedure I found for resetting anti-theft:

    30 minute GM relearn procedure:
    1-Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
    2-Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
    3-Observe the SECURITY telltale(this is the security light), after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
    4-Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
    5-Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes (the vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK). IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or password XXXXX the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
    6-Start the engine (the vehicle has now learned the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or password).

     

  6. I did some research on this topic.  From what I saw, it appears that intermittent radio and/or loss of navigation indicates a problem with the radio or a problem with one of the pins at the harness.  I will see if I can find it and post either a link or quote it.  But one person said that it was narrowed down to a faulty pin at the harness connection.

  7. On Wednesday, September 7, 2016 at 11:06 PM, BodybyFisher said:

    I tend to agree with Jan and JohnnyG, why push beyond 15W40?  

    The same thing crossed my mind that Jan brought up, yes some clearances widened but, some didn't.  

    It would be interesting to see what your actual oil pressure is with 15W40 and then 20W50.  My feeling is, if 15W40 made a marked difference why push it?  

    Have you tried removing the plugs and adding upper engine cleaner and letting it soak overnight to clean the rings?  Someone here will know the procedure, know it, so that you don't hydrolock the engine.  KHE knows it I know

    I haven't tried adding upper engine cleaner.  I have used Marvel Mystery Oil figuring it may clean internal parts including rings.  I also did a bit of research and someone said 15W40 did not increase oil pressure--at least anything worth noting.  As far as 20W50, that may be a different story? 

  8. 10 hours ago, BodybyFisher said:

    MAC, did you mean 10W30 in the winter?

    If it's better to use 10W30, then I will use it.  I just want to curb oil burning and hopefully oil leakage.  I am now looking to maybe buy a STS AWD-V8.  I have been looking for a few months.   But I have said that I want to run and run the STS I have until it can't run anymore.  But the V8 Northstar in it just keeps going and going.  If I solve the oil leaking chances are oil use will be cut quite a bit.  I just haven't had the time to get underneath and see what's going on with oil pan bolts--maybe they are loose.  Then again, oil leaking is a problem with these cars, so it is likely that I need to replace several gaskets, especially with almost 300k miles.

  9. I decided to give 20W-50 oil (Mobile 1 Full Synthetic) a try in my '05 STS.  I'm dealing with leaking, plus no doubt burning oil with almost 300K miles.  I know that some will tell me that I am looking for trouble; however, my high mileage engine no longer has tight tolerances, so this heavier weight oil should lubricate.  The oil pump should handle it.  I recently put in 4 quarts of 15W-40 and it seemed to me the car ran better.  Probably less oil burning helped?  I will see how it goes, particularly if I have to top off less. Between oil leaking and burning, I was topping off too much.  In fact, it was almost like not necessary to change oil because I was topping off so often.  I changed oil today and used almost all 20W-50, except for about 1 quart of 5W-30, just to get rid of it.

  10. Traction control is very sensitive--actually, too sensitive, in my opinion.  It can be downright dangerous on roads that are not smooth because hitting a rough patch during acceleration will cause traction control to engage causing brakes to engage.  Many times I have been annoyed by traction control.  I would not be surprised if a bad mount would cause traction control to engage since engine hop would likely effect suspension and trick the computer to think something was going on traction-wise.

  11. I have almost 300K on my '05 and it runs real good. However, there are issues as follows:

    1. Oil leaks;

    2. Power steering pump is susceptible to failure (A pain to replace but a home mechanic can do the job);

    3. Rear differential bushing will eventually fail causing clunking sound, which means it must be replaced.

    4. This particular design can eat batteries due to too much heat since it is placed at the rear near at the passenger side firewall.  I finally insulated the battery after going through 3 of them in about 4 years.

    5. If you have different size front and rear tires this means no rotating of tires.  Accordingly, rear tires tend to wear more quickly than front;

    6. Watch out for rust at the front of the frame rails. The side walls of the rail may look good but are rusting.

    7. Intake manifold bolts are susceptible to loosening causing vacuum leaks and trouble code(s);

    8. Shift linkage is eventually going to fail;

    9. 17-inch OEM aluminum wheels are weak and susceptible to pothole damage in comparison to the 18-inch wheels.

    10.  Every time brakes are replaced check all metal parts for rusting and coat them with paint because though the '05 STS has good rust resistance, suspension parts will eventually rust.  Don't ignore rust!

     

  12. I have programmed a fob when I wanted a second one.  It's easy to do.  However, in your case you don't have one, so you need to program a fob when no other fob is available.  You can program more than one fob. If you only have one fob than simply terminate the procedure once the first one is programmed.

    How – No programmed transmitters available

    • Obtain all remote transmitters
    • NOTE: Switch ignition OFF
    • Place the new unrecognized transmitter into the transmitter pocket with transmitter buttons facing the front of the vehicle (You need to open the center console and you will see a small pocket.  Put the fob in the pocket)
    • Insert key into driver’s door lock
    • Within 5 seconds turn key to unlock position 5 times. Driver’s information center will display OFF/ACC TO LEARN
    • Press the OFF/ACC button (ignition switch)
      • Driver’s information center will display WAIT 10 MINUTES and will count down to zero in one minute intervals
      • After ten minutes. The driver’s information center will display OFF/ACC TO LEARN
    • Press the OFF/ACC button (ignition switch)
      • Driver’s information center will display WAIT 10 MINUTES and will count down to zero in one minute intervals
      • After ten minutes. The driver’s information center will display OFF/ACC TO LEARN
    • Press the OFF/ACC button (ignition switch)
      • Driver’s information center will display WAIT 10 MINUTES and will count down to zero in one minute intervals
      • After ten minutes: Acoustic signal is emitted and driver’s information center will display READY FOR FOB 1
      • Another acoustic signal is emitted indicating programming complete and the driver’s information center displays READY FOR FOB 2
    • Remove first transmitter FOB1
    • Carry out above procedure for the three remaining transmitters
    • When all four transmitters have been programmed driver’s information center displays MAX FOBS LEARNED and will exit programming mode
    • Operate each transmitter to finalize programming and check operation
    • NOTE: Remote transmitters can also be programmed using diagnostic equipment
  13. Either starter solenoid or loose starter connection. I had a similar starting problem, which was becoming worse and worse. In fact, because of it, I replaced the battery (which was probably still good). I turns out that I decided to replace the intake manifold gaskets because the check engine light was always on and it was emissions related, and the STS has a known problem of intake manifold bolts coming loose. So I removed the intake manifold and decided to replace the starter while I had everything apart. When I went to remove the starter cable (the heavier cable that is not connected to the solenoid, which I believe is ground), it was loose enough that it made me think the intermittent (and getting worse) starting problems were the result of this loose cable. I'm not saying a loose cable is definitely the problem with Edith's car but, from my experience, it is a possibility.

  14. Chances are it's the power steering pump. Maybe not, but I do know that the STS models have issues with pumps going bad. I replaced the pump on my '05. Not the easiest job, but not impossible for the average home mechanic. If fluid is good and the belt is not slipping then I suspect the pump, especially if steering becomes difficult and stays that way.

  15. Okay. I understand your concern about politics being a regular topic on CaddyInfo, esepcially since politics is a polarizing topic that tends to end up with disputs and name-calling. But since being a member of CaddyInfo, I rarely see anything even coming close to a dispute. I'm used to the maturity that is exibited in this Forum, so I took for granted the potential that this could be a bad topic--even for CaddyInfo. By the way, I am an independent, as in not a member of any political party and plan to keep it that way. I tend to look at the political parties as more like cults than anything else. If pepole are reluctant to comment about politics, I completely understand.

  16. Need I say more? :)

    I notice very rarely is there political discussion at Caddyinfo. We all know politics is a divisive topic and no doubt we tend to shy away from political discussion in order to keep the peace. However, I have to chime in about Trump. He is a breath of fresh air, as far as his candor and no nonsene approach. Many feel he will bow out, but I don't think so. Unless he falls way behind in the polls, he's in it to win it. People are fed up with the status quo politicians on both sides of the isle. As far as I'm concerned, if a community organizer can become president, then a multi-billionaire businessman can become president. I'm tired of being lied to by politicians. For the first time in my lifetime a candidate (Donald Trump) is not affraid to tell it like it is.

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