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As the title states, after some time out in the heat the key fob would not work. Tried changing battery and that did not help. I have replaced the shell and keypad, which helped a bunch. Therefore the only thing original is the circuit board. Any solution or insight would be appreciated. Thanks.

Either bent or the wrong bracket. The engine came from a DTS, so I don't know if the brackets were different or what. Doesn't matter, just glad I found it and it didn't cost anything.

EUREKA!!!!! I FOUND THE PROBLEM!! The throttle cable bracket was putting too much tension on the cruise control trolling and throttle cables. A couple taps with a hammer to give it some slack and it idles and revs properly.

Not yet. Thought I'd do this before I get the coupler done. I thought it would save me a few bucks since I can get the Delphi one from Rock auto and change it myself at a reasonable price vs what a shop would charge for such a simple job. Also thought I'd clean all the passages and throttle body while I was at it.

Okay, as insurance on this idle situation I'm going to purchase an OE IAC valve. Could Delphi be trusted or just go with AC Delco?

The only code is the 0507. It comes up as the car warms up. It's probably the coupler from what you're describing. I should be receiving one today, as a matter of fact. I usually delete the code asap but it eventually comes back. Thanks for all your input. I think I'll be taking it to my mechanic pretty soon since there are a couple other things I need him to look at since the engine swap.

Just started and ran the car for around 10 minutes. It idled around 1k rpm and as it warmed up it took longer and longer to come down to idle. Seems to support my vacuum leak theory. Any thoughts?

I'm thinking more on the vacuum side. I had a new engine swapped in last summer since the original had a cracked block. I was told the pcv tubes had to be "Frankensteined" together. That sounds like a good place to start as well as an intake coupler. I have a good shop that can check this out and fix it properly or better than original. My best bet is to go that direction. I'm planning to have them just go through and tie up any loose ends from the swap. At that point I can see if the parts are any good.

Hi there. As the title states, this car has a high idle and when I revved it it stuck at around 3k rpm and gradually came down after shutting the engine off and restarting it and eventually drove it for about 10 mi Tues where it idled at around 2k rpm. This is extremely frustrating since I THOUGHT I fixed this already. I have already replaced the IAC twice and the TPS. Please please please give me some insight before I give this car a Viking Funeral. Thanks in advance. Pose

Nope. As I said, that is NOT the issue.

Thanks, but the issue is described in the first paragraph. The physical switches are not working and that's what needs fixed.

Hey guys. Two out of the three map light switches in the overhead console on my 2001 STS do not function. The switch buttons do not push the button cover downward as they should, so the button covers appear flush and do nothing. Anybody have any luck installing new switches or have any ideas on a relatively inexpensive fix for this? Thank you in advance. Pose

Oh, okay. That makes sense.

Where is this module located?

Hi everybody. I recently had the engine replaced in my 2001 Seville STS. There were no codes prior to the swap. now there are a few codes and the traction control light is on. Here are the codes (all ABS): 1274, 1282, 1284, 1287, and 1288. Most of these have to do with the throttle and I had hoped the replacement cruise control servo would fix these. (I replaced it since the connector to the throttle body had broken. Any ideas, insight, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks