Logan

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  1. Like
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in 94 cadi fleetwood brougham   
    I would of thought someone would have chimed in on this. Anyway, here is a link that has the codes..
    http://www.troublecodes.net/cadillac/fleetwood-5-7l/
  2. Like
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Dash board cover 2001 deville   
    Remove defroster grille to get to upper screws. 
    Remove each vent to get to lower screws. 
     
     

  3. Thanks
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in TPS and ICM Question   
    They are the same thing. The IAC is just a computer controlled vacuum leak. There are several different ones used over the years.  The rest of GM has been using these since the mid 80s. Only Cadillac was using the throttle control motor one. When OBDII came along Cadillac finally started using IACs.
    Has the intake ever been off? 
    Could be cracked or leaking intake or intake gasket. Or leaking blow off relief valve. 
    Bad gasket on either side of the "crossover" part.
    Leaking fuel injector O ring. 
    Broken return spring on throttle body shaft or sticking cable. 
     
    *The leak can be on the underside the intake....which you could never find by spraying around up top. 
    Spraying around.....keep the spray liquid rather than vapor. If you find the leak the high idle will drop momentarily when you hit it with the brake/carb cleaner. ....and you should be able to repeat it every time you hit the leak. 
    As mentioned.....starting fluid is a little too wild for finding intake leaks. I think you will have better luck with brake or carb cleaner. 

  4. Thanks
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in TPS and ICM Question   
    The high idle issue is likely related to the the TBI being removed. Maybe wrong gaskets. ....Personally I use brake cleaner or carb cleaner to find vacuum leaks....IMO starting fluid is a little too dicey for spraying around. 
    Some codes will not set if other codes are present. 
    Its possible there are additional chewed wires. Or maybe a broken coil return spring on the throttle body shaft.
    Being a '96....the car will be using a IAC speed motor. Lacking a scan tool....There is a Kent Moore tool used to diagnose idle speed problems.  J-37027-A.
    With the tool...you unplug the IAC....the tool works as a IAC driver. You can cycle the IAC open and closed independent of the PCM.....very easy to change engine speed with the tool.  So if the IAC is cycled all the way closed (low)....and there is still high idle speed....there is a vacuum leak. 
    There is also a noid light that plugs into the vehicle side harness. The noid LEDs will blink green and red all the time to verify the PCM IAC drivers are ok and are trying to control idle speed. 
    The tool comes with 2 noid lights depending on which type of IAC you have....the square 4 plug version or the flat plug in version. 
    Most of the time I use the tool to pulse the IAC apart to clean the shaft. 
     

  5. Like
    Logan got a reaction from rockfangd in How to start a tight remanufactured engine   
    There is a range of timing adjustment for the distributor. 
    That range is often limited because of the vacuum advance and nearby obstructions. (intake manifold, firewall etc)
    If the distributor does not get 'timed' correctly with the engine.... within that range....you can get slow cranks. 
    So you may have to pull it out several times.....and mess with the drive gear slot... to get it timed in correctly with the engine.
    You really cant just drop the distributor in and crank it up. You do have to fuss with them a little to get it set up right.  
     
  6. Like
    Logan got a reaction from rockfangd in How to start a tight remanufactured engine   
    If the ignition timing is off it can do that. 
  7. Thanks
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Mailbag: A/C on causes Overheating   
    I am certainly not the expert...
    The biggest snag is the crankshaft is different. 
    More details here about differences...
    http://www.northstarperformance.com/interchange.php
     
  8. Thanks
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Problems with 2005 SRX hard to start after filling up with gas   
    Couple of years ago I had two completely different family owned GM products do this in the same month. Fill it up with gas....no start / very hard start.  One was a 2002 Saturn...other was a 2009 Traverse.
    It was the same problem on each.....a no code evap purge solenoid failure. 
    Pretty sure both were under the hood and fairly easy to change.
     
  9. Like
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in TPS and ICM Question   
    I think you need to poke around some more. 
    It won't be out in the open.....it will be wrapped up pretty good with tape....sometimes you can feel a lump in the wires. 
    Most will be sonic welded as shown. 

  10. Thanks
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in 1992 eldorado starter problem   
    I would be surprised if any replacement starter would come with the bracket.......just like alternators don't come with brackets either....
    A little bracket like that is a prime candidate for being tossed out....forgotten....or classified as "not needed".
    No bracket....good chance you would crack a starter every couple of months.. 
  11. Thanks
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in 1992 eldorado starter problem   
    All the same brand starter? Is the little (#3) bracket there? Picture is for a 4.9L. 
    https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/starting-and-charging/what-causes-broken-starter-nose-cones/
     

  12. Thanks
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in 1992 eldorado starter problem   
    Could be a flywheel issue such as cracking or ring gear damage. 
    He really needs to check the gap between the ring gear and the bendix. He may actually have to install a shim between the starter and the block. 
    If too tight...it can actually break the starter housing. 
    The starter housings are kind of designed to be sacrificial to some extent....it's a lot better to break a starter vs break the engine block if too tight. 
  13. Thanks
    Logan got a reaction from Marika in 2008 Impala LS flex Fuel Engine Question   
    There is one sort of.....but not like the old replaceable ones. 
    It's like a mat and is part of the fuel pump sending unit. Barring any problems (..diesel, dirt in tank etc..) it is suppose to last the life of the vehicle. 
    They also no longer have a fuel return line. 
    GM service manual fuel system description for 2008 Impala.
    The fuel system is a returnless on-demand design. The fuel pressure regulator is a part of the fuel sender assembly, eliminating the need for a return pipe from the engine. A returnless fuel system reduces the internal temperature of the fuel tank by not returning hot fuel from the engine to the fuel tank. Reducing the internal temperature of the fuel tank results in lower evaporative emissions.
    The fuel tank stores the fuel supply. An electric turbine style fuel pump attaches to the fuel sender assembly inside the fuel tank. The fuel pump supplies high pressure fuel through the fuel filter contained in the fuel sender assembly and the fuel feed pipe to the Fuel Injection System. The fuel pump provides fuel at a higher rate of flow than is needed by the fuel injection system. The fuel pump also supplies fuel to a venturi pump located on the bottom of the fuel sender assembly. The function of the venturi pump is to fill the fuel sender assembly reservoir. The fuel pressure regulator, a part of the fuel sender assembly, maintains the correct fuel pressure to the fuel injection system. The fuel pump and sender assembly contains a reverse flow check valve. The check valve and the fuel pressure regulator maintain fuel pressure in the fuel feed pipe and the fuel rail in order to prevent long cracking times.
  14. Thanks
    Logan got a reaction from Marika in 2008 Impala LS flex Fuel Engine Question   
    There is one sort of.....but not like the old replaceable ones. 
    It's like a mat and is part of the fuel pump sending unit. Barring any problems (..diesel, dirt in tank etc..) it is suppose to last the life of the vehicle. 
    They also no longer have a fuel return line. 
    GM service manual fuel system description for 2008 Impala.
    The fuel system is a returnless on-demand design. The fuel pressure regulator is a part of the fuel sender assembly, eliminating the need for a return pipe from the engine. A returnless fuel system reduces the internal temperature of the fuel tank by not returning hot fuel from the engine to the fuel tank. Reducing the internal temperature of the fuel tank results in lower evaporative emissions.
    The fuel tank stores the fuel supply. An electric turbine style fuel pump attaches to the fuel sender assembly inside the fuel tank. The fuel pump supplies high pressure fuel through the fuel filter contained in the fuel sender assembly and the fuel feed pipe to the Fuel Injection System. The fuel pump provides fuel at a higher rate of flow than is needed by the fuel injection system. The fuel pump also supplies fuel to a venturi pump located on the bottom of the fuel sender assembly. The function of the venturi pump is to fill the fuel sender assembly reservoir. The fuel pressure regulator, a part of the fuel sender assembly, maintains the correct fuel pressure to the fuel injection system. The fuel pump and sender assembly contains a reverse flow check valve. The check valve and the fuel pressure regulator maintain fuel pressure in the fuel feed pipe and the fuel rail in order to prevent long cracking times.
  15. Like
    Logan got a reaction from rockfangd in Eldo engine swap   
    This pretty much covers it...
    http://www.northstarperformance.com/interchange.php
     
    Dogbones were not used after 2000 except for Eldos....but the holes are there for the brackets. 
    Buried in the details.....a different crankshaft in 2000....."A new crankshaft with a different reluctor wheel (crank position wheel) is used"
  16. Like
    Logan got a reaction from rockfangd in Eldo engine swap   
    This pretty much covers it...
    http://www.northstarperformance.com/interchange.php
     
    Dogbones were not used after 2000 except for Eldos....but the holes are there for the brackets. 
    Buried in the details.....a different crankshaft in 2000....."A new crankshaft with a different reluctor wheel (crank position wheel) is used"
  17. Like
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Running Rough   
    You can get access to the same GM info the dealers use cheap. ACDelco site offers unlimited use for 3 days for $20.
    https://www.acdelco.com/for-professionals/gm-service-information.html
    Fuse #29 has a lot connected to it...Also known as 'IGN 1' fuse.

  18. Like
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Running Rough   
    You can get access to the same GM info the dealers use cheap. ACDelco site offers unlimited use for 3 days for $20.
    https://www.acdelco.com/for-professionals/gm-service-information.html
    Fuse #29 has a lot connected to it...Also known as 'IGN 1' fuse.

  19. Like
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Cadillac Deville crank but no start   
    Curious.....does the serpentine belt look fairly new? 
    I've had a couple of serpentine belts fail in a new way....so much so there is one brand I won't use. They let go one of the outer 'strings' on the belt......the long broken belt string whips around knocking out sensors and wiring along the way. This can go on for a thousands of miles before being noticed.
    Maybe the cam sensor fell victim to this?  Maybe why he cannot see the sensor? It got wiped out by a bad belt? 
    Belt picture is from Google....not mine. The ones I've seen have only been one of the outer strings failed. 
    Northstar pic shows the cam sensor would be directly in-line for damage from a failing belt stringer. It also shows the cam sensor moved closer to the intake on the latter engines. 
     

     

  20. Like
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Cadillac Deville crank but no start   
    A fused jumper is just a jumper wire with a fuse in it. So we are not burning up new problems...
     
    I would leave the pump in the tank......remove the fuel pump relay.....install a fused jumper across the relay......see if you now get voltage at the fuel pump harness plug out in the trunk. 
    If you now have voltage at the pump connector.....plug in the connector.....pump should run. 
     
    Unrelated....I also attached pic of the cam sensor. Rear cylinder bank....near passenger side. And one of the fuse block.....fuel pump relay (#39) and 20a fuel pump fuse (#1) hopefully showing the correct orientation of relay (not verified) with "OMRON' on the outside corner of fuse block. 
     

     


  21. Like
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Cadillac Deville crank but no start   
    I would focus on the 12v issue at the pump. Should have 12v for about 2 seconds at key 'on'. You may have to set DVOM against back window to watch and see....I dont think you can get back to the trunk fast enough to see it on a DVOM. 
    Varying fuel pressure readings earlier...and now reading 0 psi... 
    It appears someone did actually install a new pump trying to fix it. 
    Could be a blued wire connection or even a broken wire inside the insulation. Can be either the male or female part of the connection. 
    Can be inside the plastic part of the connector. Look for melted or scorched looking plastic around the male prongs. 
     I am assuming  the new fuel pump assembly was a complete drop in 'bucket' assembly....I would think that would solve any issues on the pump end of the business. 
    It can require a very, very close inspection....maybe it is just going unnoticed. I did attach another picture example of a blued / hot fuel pump connector. It can also be at the wire connections inside the tank....not just the outside plug. 
     
    Other issues:
    The fuel pressure gauge may have been damaged in a odd way being connected to the Chevy. 
    In one post I think he mentioned swapping some relays around.....hopefully he knows the relay pins have to be oriented in the correct position. 
    Could be wrong or defective pump assembly. 
     
    If....upon inspection....nothing is found at the tank end.... I would head to the fuel pump relay....remove the relay and put a fused jumper in and see if there is now voltage out to the pump.  Retest. 
    The car isn't going to start without 12v at the fuel pump.
     
     
     

     




  22. Like
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Cadillac Deville crank but no start   
    Service manual shows 55-62 on the 04 Chevy 5.3L. 
    My guess is the gauge is 'good'.....but you never know. 

  23. Like
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Cadillac Deville crank but no start   
    I don't see anything that proves the pump was....in fact....replaced. No one in the room saw it replaced....or maybe it was a flubbed installation or wrong pump. 
    What year and engine is the Silverado? It likely has a different fuel pressure spec. I can look up the spec. That would help verify the gauge reading.
  24. Like
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Cadillac Deville crank but no start   
    I should add.....there was a Mercedes we inherited once.....sat unused for 5-6 years in a hot climate......sour fuel. 
    Original pump and fuel filter were locked with a black goo...fuel level sending unit was also bad.....first replacement pump also failed after a couple of months. Second replacement pump kind of fixed it. 
  25. Thanks
    Logan got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Cadillac Deville crank but no start   
    I think the bulletin you mention is for the 4.9L and earlier engines. On the 4.xL engines there is a ground wire mounted to the front of the engine block next to the starter. 
    Current issue thinking there was a major backfire.....causing some smoke in the intake.....smoke leaked out of the ruptured plenum boot.....which is located directly above the starter on a Northstar.
    You really need a scan tool to condemn the PCM. There is plenty of stuff right now that needs to be verified before even thinking it's a bad PCM. Check for a ripped rubber plenum.....low fuel pressure issue....no spark issue... 
    Then again....maybe it's a flood car...all the computers may be toast.