scandiainn

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About scandiainn

  • Rank
    Observer (3-9 posts)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1996 DeVille
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)
  1. Ordered TYC Blower replacement from Rock Auto. Be here Tuesday, will update. Think I'll wait until I have it in hand to worry about which install method to attempt.
  2. Oh, one other thing. Discovered the 15 sec. cycling of the fan was internal to the fan. When I did step 2 from above with power direct from battery the cycling still appeared. Had nothing to do with ACM control. Maybe someone has written somewhere that this is the easiest indicator of failed blower motor?
  3. Wow, just saw my post from last night! Sorry guys, hardly new to this format, just (like so many things I'm finding) not very good at it.
  4. I spent about 45 minutes recapping my different test results with the original and new (used) ACM. Went back to edit and lost it all. I had been using the GM diagnostic steps but knew I had a big hole not having a scan tool for step 1 control/ monitor signal comparisons. This evening I ran across a post from N*Caddy on CadillacForums that gave me some needed help. 1. As I must have done 20 times with key-off: confirmed the connector female pins had 12+ on pin C to battery ground, then 12V between A (ground) and C confirmed ground. 2. From the male connectors on blower: Connected 12V+ to pin C, Ground to pin A, then 12V+ to center pin C. 3. Results: Shazam.... no blower 4. Select replacement fan 5. Install fan So I hardly feel out-of-the-woods yet. I have certainly read a lot more about differing creative methods of installation than the available brands and whether new or used. Not planning on being buried in the car but I don't want to do this again. Any recommendations? Also, any one sorted out all the different installation testimonials? I lean toward the least time and most remaining knuckle skin methods. For my part I can offer after spending days on this with a DVOM and your collective help: I wish I could have seen through all the complexity, that you could isolate the blower and determine if motor failure was the issue, then you could focus more clearly on the ACM and control issues. Thanks to all who share their hits and misses.
  5. ok. Battery voltage from dash is 11.3 and vom says 11.9 at the battery. Codes are: PC0603, IP1552, AC1340, NO SDM, NOTCS, RS- a slew of codes from suspension changes, PZ1552, PZ1558. All seem to be related to battery disconnects except for the AC code. I tried a used (supposed to be good!) ACM and am getting the same response. No fan, cycles of and on w/key off , w/key on , and with engine running & with AC on. I have used a piece of wire to ensure the vom connection while the blower motor is plugged in. Engine running AC setting: 75F., Auto Fan speed HI: reading 6.15 to 8.95 Volts Fan speed LOW: reading 10.83 to 15.68 AC setting OFF: reading 10.77- 15.15 The range shown is do to the same 15 second cycling. WTF. Is my new meter screwy or why would I be seeing Voltage in excess of battery voltage? I have read so many versions of the same thing, basically trying to find what I have missed. I can't make sense of it. Now with the used ACM I still don't know for sure that I actually need a blower. Following the GM 3 point diagnostic : TEST 1. Engine running, AC-Auto A. run blower high to low- no fan B. Without a Tech 1 can't compare I/O of ACM so assume -yes data match C. Check for >4V. at B connector w/fan set at HI /Auto. -yes at a minimum of 6v. D. Resistance on 12+ and ground are less than 4 ohms E. Connector B to ground is 1k ohm. Results- Says replace blower. Can I trust not running Scanner test of actual output? TEST 2. Does not apply to problem. TEST 3. A. Select LOW blower and Check for >9 volts at connector B -yes B. Select HI blower and Check for <4 Volts at connector B -No C. Check Ckt 754. Continuity at ASM connector Pin D4 and Blower connector Pin B. .4 Ohms E. If Ok replace ACM Also: onboad diagnostic shows no AC codes. I'm going to put old ACM back and check once again. Do I send the new (used) one back ? is it defective like the one I have? OR god no please, take my car and credit card to Cadillac......? I'll post what compares on the original ASM.
  6. Sorry, some winter weather with snow slowed me up a bit. I've got: alldata and mitchel manuals, added a knife-blade battery disconnect and a battery post ratchet wrench. Didn't seem to solve the problem but my knuckles and attitude are better. Both A & C connections have voltage and resistance in spec. B- they grey control wire is the question as well as the ACM input from the Climate Controls. ACM is moving vacuum doors. Can't tell if its responding correctly. No fan response at all except for the low rev. off and on cycle described above (regardless of key position) . I did find with plugged into blower that I could ground the (gray) B connector with a test lead and it would stop the cycling. Voltage on grey wire stays a low of about 8V and peaks at battery charge at 12.3V . Anything short of a Tech 1 scanner that can say yes/no to quality of: Climate Control signal to ACM and from ACM to Blower? I surmise this is the issue to resolve. I'd swear I replaced the ACM once before, trying to find receipt. Could there be other input/power problems causing ACM failure. Can I test the blower by itself w/o the control wire? Thanks so very much for your time and knowledge.
  7. It's an everyday driver. A/C stated going wacky about a month ago. The drained battery started last week. As my NAPA guy suggested- seems the low rev blower should be on costant and not be cycling until the timed circuit shuts it down. Looking for a detailed diagram of the key-off blower circuit and diagnostic procedure.
  8. I sure would like for Julio to fill us in on the results. Unless, of course, he surrendered and in that case I understand and extend the proverbial, rest in peace. For my 96 Deville, the AC has become screwy, batteries being drained. I clock 1.2-2.5A as the blower motor cycles on and off. Julio, if you are on the other side could you send us a sign?