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ralphiedee

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Everything posted by ralphiedee

  1. I have the 84 manual and originally had a problem with the programmer mechanisim that opens / closes the air vent. As I traced back I had to go into the dashboard and removed both ECM and fuel data modules and see that shaking the wires made the connections go on and off. Now cant get the lights to work. R
  2. From what I see the hose on the inside of the cabin goes to a grommet and the outside of that is a bigger diameter hose that goes into a 3 side tee connector which the second connection goes to a small hose plugged with a screw. This obviously had to go to the cruise control servo ( which is NOT in the car) the last tee connects a hose going to a metal tube right near the vacuum pump, runs around the front of the motor and goes into the bottom of the carburetor. I would think that the vacuum origin is from the carburetor so if I removed the end of the hose coming out of the carb right before it goes into the metal tube should I feel vacuum there regardless if car is in drive or not?
  3. confirmed, no vacuum with car running in drive at brake servo. next?
  4. Ah, OK. I need another person to do this with me, will try again with the car in drive and report back later, thx R
  5. Confirmed, no vacuum at brake servo hose. Now what? thx rd
  6. Great idea to start from the beginning, I have a vacuum tester and wanted to make sure I do this right. Do I remove the hose from the servo and see if I get air? should it suck in or blow out? A little confused about that. thx rd
  7. I looked thru this whole manual , makes no sense as all I found is the pic below. I'm looking under V for vacuum. I know what I'm looking for as it would be the same diagram that is on the fan shroud. http://dagwaremedia.com/vaccumdiagram.jpg its for the HT4100
  8. I have the service information book for the car, I'm looking for the page with the diagram now. R
  9. OK, thanks for that, this is what I did so far, out of the firewall driverside there is a hose that runs up near the vac pump then into a metal tub which runs into the bottom of the carburetor. Now I know there is 2 kinds of vacuum sucking and blowing. I checked for air at the place where the hose runs into the metal and I get nothing , no air in or out. I also see that the person who put this motor in left the clamp off coming out of the carb into the metal tube. I will check again but should I get suction or air blowing on that hose? I would think the path runs from the carburator into the cabin and supplies the emg brk with vacuum, am I right? R R
  10. Ok, started the car, pressed the emg brake pedal down, put car in drive brake does not release. I have another emg brk diaphragm assuming I change it and its the same problem would it be safe to say that the vaccum is not getting in the cabin? If so where do I start as I see the vaccum pump supplies the hoses but as I mentioned the hose coming off the v pump going to the hole underneath the p brake booster is larger than the vacuum line on the inside going to the emg brake. I would think to start directly from the vaccum pump as I have a vac meter, do you happen to know what psi I should see? RRD
  11. Will do later today and report back, thx R
  12. Can you please explain the easiest way to see if I have vacuum at the emg brake? I know that if I lock the brake the pedal does not disengage. The hose is connected. I need to know if the line entering the cabin has vacuum. I just replaced the power brake booster and changed the vaccum pump as my brake pedal was a little hard. I would assume that the hose running from the vac pump into the firewall enters the cabin and the first stop is the emergency brake. But the hose on the outside is larger than the hose going to the brake servo, I'll deal with the cruise control later, just as long as not having it in is not part of this problem. BtW I have a part car its an 85' Biarritz , the motor was removed from that car but that motor had no cruise control, I have the emr brake servo from that car so I can always swap ( just a pain in the a#$ to remove as it's such a tight area. Any help figuring this out is appreciated. RD
  13. Thanks for the reply this issue has been killing me for two years as the car is a Biarritz convertible and I only use in spring to fall so I thought I would try to tackle this again. I could use some expertise here as I want to make sure everything under the hood was checked first then I will revisit the cabin vaccum lines. heres some pics I just took http://dagwaremedia.com/discvaccumline.jpg http://dagwaremedia.com/CruiseMissing.jpg http://dagwaremedia.com/Anotherdiscvaccumline.jpg .jpg
  14. I have been going nuts trying to figure out why I do not get any air flow into my ac vents and defroster vents. controller is good vaccum lines seem to be working and I even changed the power brake booster, still the same problem, then I noticed there was a vaccum line, drivers side out of the firewall hanging. The motor in this car was changed and the cruise control is not there but was on the original motor but someone took it out. After looking at some diagrams from the 84'manual I do see that the cruise control pod engine is missing. Since the cruise works on vacuum could this be the problem? I still cannot get the parking brake to release when the car is in gear either, vaccum lines are all in. Second question, I can live without the cruise control but is having this out causing this vacuum problem?
  15. Rear window on my ASC Biarritz stopped working, checked wiring and have 12 volts at the brown / blue clip that leads straight to the window motor. Whoever had the car before me taped the wires so I removed the window and to double check connected the window motor straight to the battery and the motor is dead. My question is does anyone know if the rear window motors are the same as the front door window motors? I would think so but I gotta make sure. anyone? RD
  16. Revisiting this thread from last year, spring is coming and will work on my car soon. As mentioned in the last posts I have an '85 motor in my car, does not burn oil, has good compression. When the car is hot I hear a knock when the car is in drive with my foot on the brake. In neutral it seems to fade a bit. I know this is hard to answer but since the car does not burn oil is it possible the knock can be remedied by some oil treatment as finding a motor for this car that is good is a bit of a challenge. Any help? rd
  17. Very frustrating to say the least, still have the same problem. A list of what I did so far: Verified there is vaccum inside the cabin thru the black hose that runs into the unit behind the glove box. Swapped programmer pulled parking brake hose from diaphram plugged, still same problem. controlhead seems to work, lights up, buttons work but when I press lo med hi only the blower speed changes I do not hear any vent doors opening or closing MOST IMPORTANT, I removed the aspirator when I changed the engine. But I had this problem BEFORE I changed the engine so I would think the aperator being out would not have anything to do with this. The manual says to check the voltage at the controlhead and then at the tip of the connector going into the programmer. I would think the controlhead has voltage because it lights up and functions so my next move would be to test for 8 volts on tip of the connector into the programmer. Bottom line here is I need to know if the opening and closing of the vent doors in the dash are electrical, vacuum controlled or both. Problem is the vacuum line that supossedly controls the vent door is up behind. Anybody????
  18. I have two Biarritz's one an 85' hardtop and the second an 84' ASC convertible, strange that both have the same problem. If I turn on the defrost or ac vent the air flow stays on the bottom only, I just got done reading the information manual on this problem. According to the manual it's either a vacuum hose(s) the control , the programmer , a bad ground or the actual connector for the vacuum hoses going into the programmer. Before I start I wondered as what are the odds of me having the same problem in two of my cars? To top it off I just spoke to someone who has an 84' Eldorado and he has the same problem. So 3 cars, the same problem, was this a big issue when these cars were built? Could it be that ALL 3 cars need programmers, I guess what I'm getting to is if anyone had this problem and what was the culprit? thx rd
  19. I had to replace the motor due to it burning oil ( white smoke and very low compression readings. I came across an 85' Biarritz hardtop garage kept with mint condition interior and fabulous paint with minimal rust. That motor had 66K original miles with a minimal knock heard when stopped with foot on the brake. Since I had to swap the motors after I had the old one start to leak from the oil pump housing and instead of paying labor to put a band aid on the situation I just swapped motors. The newer Biarritz cost me $700.00 and $1,500 to swap the motor. So for the 2,200 I spent I have a new interior, ALL IN THE SAME COLOR white / red. Bumpers, Biarritz chrome all body parts along with chrome wheel whells ( hard to find these) This motor has plenty of power, does not burn oil, I changed all the hoses, water pump and flushed the motor out. Only thing is the knock, anyway to remedy that with some special oil treatment or will this eventually become so far gone too? Car will be put away for the winter in 30 days so any insite on this? rd
  20. I have 1984 Biarritz convertible, the motor is starting to go as the compression is getting worse. Instead of looking for another HT4100 from a newer 85' Eldo I was told that I'm better off with getting an Oldsmobile motor which would be swappable, I think it was a 350 or a 307? I'm sure someone has done this before and I would think locating one of these or buying a rebuilt ( possible?) anyone?
  21. Sorry, I forgot to get back to you. I will not need that part after all as I have a second Biarritz which I was planning to swap motors after the summer. The motor in my convertible has bad compression along with o ring problems. So instead of paying someone the labor to change the housing I went ahead and scheduled swapping the 85' motor with the old 84" motor. These 4100's were not the best motors GM made as I'm sure you well know and I was told that 1 out of 5 will develop problems over time. Thx again for looking into that for me. RD
  22. You can ask as the guy I deal with is in Calif and wont hear from him until late tomorrow. thanks rd
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