Rckjaws10

Registered
  • Content Count

    62
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Rckjaws10

  • Rank
    Fanatic (50+ posts)
  • Birthday 12/27/1989

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dallas, TX

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1996 Deville
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I don’t have my original cluster anymore, another part of the problem. If there’s no way to get a used one and reprogram it, I’m thinking I may have to find a parts vehicle 96 Deville and get both the cluster and the ECM from the same vehicle. That way the codes for the two will match
  2. So like a lot of you here I am a Cadillac enthusiast and have used this site countless times for information for myself and helping others. I was a heavy line technician at Cadillac for five years and do head gasket stud repairs for side work when I can including on my Deville. I have taken apart and tinkered with nearly everything on this car but the cluster problem has by far been the most frustrating and difficult problem to solve over everything. Its been in virtually non running condition because of this for going on two years. To explain a bit better, the cluster began to go black intermittently while driving until eventually going on and staying out. All the A/C controls and fuel gauge panels are still on, just the green portion of the main cluster going out completely. I drove it this way for a while until finally the car would stall and not start due to the cluster losing communication with the ECM and other modules preventing it from running. Now I've done my best to try and fix it myself and haven't been able to. I have seen other threads where some people have had luck buying a used cluster and dismantling and swapping the boards to get the cluster on again while retaining their vehicles information. This only works if you keep your original board with the EPROM chips. Tried this with mine and problem was not just the display board but the EPROM board stopped working as well. The car runs but I only got it working by taking the ECM and the EPROM cluster board out of an Eldorado I had and putting them both into my Deville. The car runs but the check engine light is on and the A/C function buttons don't work obviously. Unfortunately I lost my job at Cadillac right when the cluster decided to go out otherwise I may have been able to do programming on it myself. So my question is does anyone know what my options to get my Deville running properly are? Do I need to get a used cluster and have it programmed at Cadillac or a speedometer shop to work with my car and ECM? I also have a resistor in place for the VATS because the cluster in my car has the Eldorado cluster in it. Been trying to sort this out forever and am hoping some people here have experienced this or can give some insight into what to do. One more question also, on these Northstar system ECMs theres a little panel that can be unbolted and a plastic chip that can be unplugged from the board of the ECM.. somewhere along the line with me trying to puzzle pieces together to get it running I misplaced that original chip for my Deville ECM, when I am ready to use my original ECM can I unplug the same chip from the donor ECM and plug into mine without any issues? Hope all that makes sense for anyone readying and thanks in advance for any help!
  3. Well a few weeks ago I replaced the rear shocks, tomorrow will be the struts. Only problem is the service ride control message. For the left shock I removed the solenoid and put it in a baggy and all is good, no codes. Now the right side solenoid was weak where the connections actually enter inside of it. They broke apart, so now it is useless. I have soldered a 4.7 ohm resistor, a 5.6, and the instructions with the shock said use a 2.2. Tried that, and none of these work. Everytime it is the same code, RS0027. I know it is just a button push to make it go away, but nevertheless, it is extremely nagging and annoying to me after having spent money time and hard work into the replacement, just to see this come up everytime I go for a ride. At this point I am at a loss what to attempt, and it's very frustrating. Any advice would be appreciated.
  4. So I am leaning towards the Monroe shocks and strut options. With the Monroe front Sensa Trac struts, has anyone used these? They seem like a very low price for such an expensive part if bought OEM. Just want to have reasonable quality and the car ride close to original as possible. Its just OEM is far too expensive. As for the rears, the 40046 part does not look like it has an air bag in the photo, how does it still keep use of the air level system then? Lastly, if I did install them I would have to solder all four suspension corners to stop the ride control message, what do I need to do to get that done?
  5. Monroe part number for rear shocks is 40018. I also see 40046 for the rears, but the other option looks more like the shocks on the car now. Front strut options are 71854 and 801854. Both are listed as without electronic suspension. Which my car has.
  6. Okay so I checked the sticker by the spare and seen the FE1 code on it. Also the front struts do have electrical plugs and harnesses. Looking at the Monroe rear shocks I see the ones that are around 350 with electrical harness and air bag. Should these be a direct replacement for mine and plug in without any issues? As for the front struts Monroe does not have any on their site with electronics, so I am assuming I have no choice but to solder or wire things together to prevent codes? How would this be done? The front struts have two options. The more expensive of the two is only 100, and I believe it's called sensa trac. This seems low price, are they quality front struts for this car? Also I will add the deville is just a base model. Not concours or anything else.
  7. I believe my struts are getting weak on my car. Front end can get very bouncy at times. Everything is original suspension wise except for the stabilizer links. So I would plan on doing the rear air shocks at the same time. Now my question is does anyone have any recommendations for companies or brands of shocks and struts besides the AC Delcos. I work at the dealer and was quoted 900 each for the rears, and 650 for the fronts. On top of that price, recently all the shocks and struts for the car have been discontinued by GM. So even getting them through the dealer is not an option. At least my dealer. Even if I could I'm not sure I really want to drop 3 thousand dollars on shocks. I have thought of going to junkyards and possibly getting lucky and finding some originals with lower miles.. My deville is at 115000 right now. However if not I'm looking for anything that will keep the ride as close to original quality as possible and not create problems with codes and such. I've searched up a few different brands and the list can get confusing. So if anyone has installed anything, or has any suggestions it would help a lot.. Thanks!
  8. I will add this also.. this is from the GM service bulletins that I am able to log into and read for GM vehicles. Not sure if anyone has ever tried this. #67-61-07: OIL LEAKS FROM OIL PAN TO LOWER CRANKCASE - (Jan 31, 1996) SUBJECT: OIL LEAKS FROM OIL PAN TO LOWER CRANKCASE ATTACHING BOLTS (CLEAN BOLT/APPLY SEALANT) MODELS: 1993 CADILLAC ALLANTE 1994-96 CADILLAC CONCOURS, DEVILLE, ELDORADO, SEVILLE 1995-96 OLDSMOBILE AURORA WITH 4.0L AND 4.6L ENGINE (VINS 9, Y, C-RPOS L37, LD8, L47) CONDITION: SOME ENGINES MAY EXHIBIT ENGINE OIL LEAKS SOURCED AT OIL PAN TO LOWER CRANKCASE ATTACHING BOLTS AND BOLTS ATTACHING THE BRACE BETWEEN THE TRANSAXLE AND ENGINE OIL PAN. CAUSE: THIS CONDITION MAY BE CAUSED BY POROSITY IN THE LOWER CRANKCASE AREA NEAR THE OIL PAN BOLT THREADS. THIS TYPE OF LEAK WOULD SHOW OIL LEAKING AT OR NEAR THE HEAD OF THE FASTENER AFFECTED. CORRECTION: TO CORRECT POROSITY LEAKS IN THESE AREAS, USE THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE: 1. REMOVE THE BOLT WHICH IS LEAKING. 2. THOROUGHLY CLEAN THE BOLT HOLE WITH BRAKE CLEAN OR SUITABLE EQUIVALENT CLEANER. 3. THOROUGHLY BLOW OUT BOLT HOLE WITH SHOP AIR (20 PSIG MAXIMUM PRESSURE). 4. THOROUGHLY CLEAN THE BOLT WITH BRAKE CLEANER OR SUITABLE EQUIVALENT CLEANER. 5. APPLY A MODERATE AMOUNT OF LOCTITE®, P/N 12345382 (BLUE SERVICE REMOVABLE) THREADLOCKER/SEALANT TO BOLT. 6. INSTALL BOLT AND TORQUE TO 9.5 N.M (85 LB IN). ENGINES PREVIOUSLY RETURNED THROUGH THE ENGINE EXCHANGE PROGRAM FOR THIS TYPE OF LEAK SHOULD INSTEAD BE REPAIRED USING THIS PROCEDURE.
  9. Maybe I should have used other wording, I didn't mean to imply it was intentional that the pan is so difficult to remove just meant to state the fact that it is difficult. I also agree about leaving the bolt out as not a good idea I know I would want mine back in as well, that is just what he told me. I also thought about if there was a way to take it out, shouldn't it go back in? Also its not just that specific tech, I have made a habit when working on the northstars to look at that bolt and have seen many many of them missing. I wouldn't say the tech was just using a wood block. All the techs there use tall stands I would call them, specifically designed to hold up heavy parts and things. The wood block was just so the metal would not press into any parts. I simply wanted to share that there is a way to seal the oil pan without engine removal, that is just the way I seen the tech do it.
  10. I just recently completed this repair over the weekend. Along with replacing the crossover seals, and valve cover gaskets which were leaking and many other small items along the way. I started Thursday night for a few hours, Friday night for a few hours and both Saturday and Sunday ALL day and had to drive to work Monday. Job was not "easy" but went rather smoothly, just lots of work. I'd like to thank BodybyFisher and any other members who lent advice and info on this repair, couldn't have done it without everyone's help. Thanks!
  11. Hello everyone, just thought I would share something I have seen on several occasions. At the Cadillac dealer I am a tech at I occasionally wander about and help the more advanced techs with the big fun jobs. More so if I see work being done on a Northstar since that is what I have. One thing that always interested me was the oil pan gasket leak and the removal of the engine or transmission to fix it. I can now witness and say that no, not always does the engine or trans need to come out. I watched the tech and seen him complete the job in if I had to guess, 5 hours. Which if I had to guess he flagged many more than that.. Anyways, what he did first was support the engine and transmission with a stand and a block of wood then lowered the whole front of the engine cradle. From what I could see, the front motor mount was removed, the abs unit unbolted oil filter removed and the front exhaust manifold was completely taken off the engine. He unbolted it from the crossover going across the oil pan. Once all of that was removed he removed all the bolts from the pan and just maneuvered the pan out moving it towards the right side of the car. Seeing all this I asked if all Northstars were the same with the oil pan. He told me yes, however some of them can be "cheated" which is the way he did it, and others the only option is the transmission removal. He did not specify how or why but that was the answer. Also on the back of the crossover pipe, as it is going up an over the transmission there is a extremely difficult bolt squeezed between the pan and transmission. He told me that once the bolt is out, he never puts them back in. If he did the trans would need to be removed. He explained that the bolt is simply a hold down for the exhaust to keep it from moving, but there is no wiggle room for it anyways so its best to be left out. Funny thing is after he explained this, anytime I work with a Northstar I take a look at that bolt, and have seen MANY motors that have had the pan resealed and that bolt is missing because it was not necessary to put back. Also they do not use rubber gaskets but AC Delco engine sealant available at the dealer. All in all the job would require a few jacks and high jack stands. But did not look terribly difficult. The tech did however explain that if its the oil pan MANIFOLD that that is a 14 hours job, and in his words, not as fun. haha. Anyways maybe others can add some experiences, or talk about why the pan was designed to be so difficult to remove. This is just what I have seen. So for anyone with a leaky pan gasket, there may be hope of not pulling the motor!
  12. Well I replaced the left bearing and the noise is gone! Puts my mind at ease knowing that it is fixed. The left bearing was also in pieces when pulled off the knuckle. My right side was bad and made no noise, left side was also bad and had terrible noise when turning left. I guess my advice from now on would be to simply replace them both if one has gone and they are both at high miles. Thanks again everyone for all the advice.
  13. Sounds good. Did that solve your noise problem? I can't really think of anything else it could be. As I said before there was and is no noise on right turns. Only the left, and the noise is exactly the same as before replacing the right side bearing as after. So reading into it I read turning left makes the weight shift to the right bearing and the noise can be misinterpreted as coming from the left side since that is where the noise is loud while driving, But is actually the right bearing. Anyways it is very loud turning left and I can even feel very slight vibration through the gas pedal as my foot is on it. However I am going to replace the left side also to see if that solves the problem. After all if the pass. side was in such bad shape I would imagine the left is either the same or not far behind.
  14. Okay I think I will replace it. Can the side that makes noise while turning have the bad bearing? Since I replaced the right side I really noticed no change. Other than visually seeing it was in very bad shape.
  15. Whenever the car is being driven there is a droning noise that can constantly be heard. However when turning left just slightly the noise gets very loud. Especially loud over 30mph and going at highway speeds and coming to a long turn. The best way I can describe it is a rubbing or maybe even an airplane like sound. When driving straight it can be heard but not nearly as loud as when going left. Car is silent on a right turn. Also going over any series of bumps, as the car lifts into the air for just a second the noise is gone. Then when coming back down and all the weight returns the noise can be heard loudly then as the car evens back out it will quiet down to just barely being heard. Now, Ive read that a good possibility would be the wheel bearing, but that it would be the opposite side the noise is heard from. So I have replaced the right side bearing.. and the old bearing was coming apart with all the grease out of it yet the noise persists. Also only one pad on the front left tire is worn down worse than the other pad on the same wheel. I greased the caliper pins and put them back. My question is where to go from here and what possibilities? Could the left bearing also be bad since the right was in such bad shape? Thanks.