Cadillac Jim

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  1. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from BodybyFisher in US$8.800 repair bill on my 2007 Cadillac STS-V   
    The "edit" button has gone away on the post of 9:05 Monday morning.  I think that happens once others have quoted or perhaps "liked" the post.  If you can't re-enable the edit button, please delete the last sentence of the third paragraph that begins "This ...".
    I don't think I could help him very much on the basis of the video.  The STS-V and CTS-V are very different cars and drivelines, except for the transmission.  I would start by reading his OBD codes, though; he must have tons of them.  Bruce or other STS-V owners would know more about his car.  His over-the-air fixes were to take effect in late August according to the video, so that would have come and gone.
    My main concern on the basis of the videos is that there might have been some overvoltage by a battery charger that damaged some modules, because his touch screens didn't respond; I hope that was for the radio modes only.  That can be due to corrupted software, which may or may not be corrected over-the-air.  Normally, disconnecting the battery simply resets all the modules and you need to re-learn the throttle, timing, and such, and re-set the radio station that you were listening to, but certainly simply disconnecting the battery doesn't damage anything.  The wheel sensors could be missing, have wiring or connector issues, etc.  The TPS system probably has missing tire sensors; some tire and wheel people don't know what they are and will simply throw them away and use new valve stems when re-mounting a tire.
  2. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from BodybyFisher in US$8.800 repair bill on my 2007 Cadillac STS-V   
    The big items were "Spare Parts" at $2,912 and "Other Material" at $3,782".  The bumper guard and paint are supposed to be $250 or less, but they probably replaced the bumper beam and at least one of the two shock absorbers, which can easily run $3K.  But, another $3.7K for "Other Material" that was not itemized???
    A bill of that magnitude from any source must include a full breakdown of all parts, their source, and your cost of those parts.  Some would include manufacturer part number on the parts.  This is very important for Cadillac or any high performance auto repair because many mechanics just call the local parts house and give the make and model, and the parts house will look up the cheapest part that will bolt on in a catalog and neither knows that they have just made the car dangerous to drive within manufacturer's specified performance envelope.  If you have the part number, you can deal with the problem; otherwise, you may not even know about it.  Other mechanics will order the "economy" version of a part and charge for the "performance" version...
    Some of the other documents provided by the dealer may have included such lists.  The guy didn't say.  I did look at one other of his videos on the STS-V, and he spends it complaining about problems with the car that he introduced himself by disconnecting the battery and not reinitializing the modules.  GM fixed the radio over-the-air, and that fix may have solved all his problems, but he made the video before the fixes took effect. [...]
    BBF, please forgive me for my hard knocks anecdotes.  All of them are from experience, though.
  3. Like
    Cadillac Jim reacted to Bruce Nunnally in SmokingTire: The Cadillac CT5-V Doesn't Want to Be A Performance Car - One Take   
    I agree; I wondered if he simply needed to put it in track mode.
  4. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from cdgrinci in SmokingTire: The Cadillac CT5-V Doesn't Want to Be A Performance Car - One Take   
    Two takes:  The extreme and long-winded rant about the transmission and RPM range seem more to be about how he expects the engine management to work, as in keeping the RPM range high as needed for a naturally-aspirated car or a small engine, AND, brake smoke does not mean that the brakes are on fire, or even that there is anything wrong.  This is a zero review.
  5. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from Dreday in 84' eldorado convertable   
    The part number you gave for the relay, stamped on it, is one digit short of a GM part number. You say you found a relay on Rock Auto that is the same part; I don't see a relay by itself for the 1984 Biarritz electric seats, just 21-pin combination switch-relays and an 8-pin switch-relay. If you could give us the exact application where the same relay is used, and the GM part number, then we could probably find it for you.
    You can also match the relay with another one based on the size, voltage (12 Volts), and number of pins and functionality with pinout. That's a last resort but always there for parts like relays.
  6. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from BodybyFisher in 2003 STS Struts   
    The url for wheel-size.com is
    https://www.wheel-size.com/
    They refer to the wheel size as 7Jx16 ET51.  Their "i" button explains that as 7 inch rims, mounting rim type J (most road cars), and ET51 means a positive offset of 51 mm, which is 2 inches.  That's where I got the tire size, too.  Width is 235mm, up from 225mm for older Sevilles, with a corresponding slight increase in rolling diameter (the aspect ratio of 60% is the same).
  7. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from BodybyFisher in A/C COMPRESSOR WILL NOT COME ON!!!!   
    morty96 -- you can't tell what's wrong, exactly, from what you say.  If we have the codes, they may be able to tell us what is up.  The compressor may be turned off because  a code has been set that says that the expansion valve or dryer is clogged, for example.  If you have a gauge on it and it is reading 100 psi, it probably doesn't have a leak.  BodybyFisher is right, a can of the correct Freon every year or two may be OK but that's not going to address whatever is stopping your compressor from running.  Possibilities include, but are not limited to:
    Electrical problem, like bad compressor clutch ground, Bad compressor clutch, Clogged expansion valve, drier, condenser, evaporator, etc. Etc. If we have all the OBD codes we may be able to eliminate a lot of things or even focus in on something specific.  As BodybyFisher says, get the codes (OnStar, Autozone, whoever), write them all down, and post them all here.
  8. Thanks
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Transmission help! 4t80e   
    Uh, like BBF needs anyone to back him up, but as an outsider in this thread I do think I have something that might help out here.
    Whenever the battery voltage drops below 9 Volts during cranking (or any other time, like sitting at a long light at night with the headlights and A/C running...), some modules will start throwing bogus codes.  At least two of them will throw "Battery voltage low" codes to make sure the tech knows to ignore ALL the codes, charge or replace the battery (or fix bad connections), clear all the codes, and start over.
    Things that can cause voltage to the modules to drop below 9 Volts when the battery is new:
    Wrong battery -- too small, or one with not enough cranking power; or an ordinary battery when the car is designed for an AGM battery Corrosion on either battery cable connections to the battery Bad battery ground on either the engine block or on the car body Dragging starter or something on engine dragging or seized Battery too cold to start engine easily, particularly while engine is dragging due to extreme cold Engine taking far too long to start for any reason Bad connection or cracked Maxifuse or fuse Bad ground on module(s)
  9. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Transmission help! 4t80e   
    I have the 06 DTS service manual on DVD.  I believe that the question is where the battery grounds are.
    From the FSM, the main battery ground cable is G303, "Battery negative cable ground, under the rear seat on the right floor pan" while there is another ground cable wire, if a smaller gauge.  The FSM schematic from starting circuits is attached.
    My IE has updated to the point that the GM SI TIFF viewer isn't there anymore.  I'm trying to re-install it...OK.  The smaller battery ground wire goes to the BCM, apparently as a BCM ground.
    It seems that there is an engine ground strap, between G110 "In the engine compartment, right side ground strap to the right frame rail below underhood - fuse block", and G111 "In the engine compartment, right side ground strap to the right frame rail below underhood - fuse block".  Since they say "right side" there may be another ground strap.

  10. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from rockfangd in Radio just stopped working?   
    If you have OnStar, push the black button and ask the lady to read you the OBD codes and write them down and post them here.  You can ask her to email them to you, which might be simpler and avoid an error in writing them down.
    If you don't have OnStar, find and Autozone near you and ask them to read your OBD codes for you.
    Look at the sticker on the underside of your spare tire compartment cover and write down the RPO codes related to your radio.  I would take a cell phone photo of that sticker, which has all your RPO codes, paint numbers, etc., and keep that photo on my computer for reference.  The radio codes for the 2007 CTS are (this list may not be totally complete because I just now picked it out of the FSM):
    UAV    Infotainment System 005.1
    U2J    Digital Audio System S-Band, Not Installed
    U2K    Digital Audio System S-Band
    U2R    Infotainment System 001
    U2S    Infotainment System 002
    U2X    Infotainment System 007
    U2Y    Infotainment System 008
    U57    Speaker System 8, Dual F/D Pillar, Dual FRT DR MTD, Dual RR DR MTD, Subwoof PKG Shelf, I/P CTR, Amplif, Bose
    U66    Speaker System 7, Custom
    We will need that information to get the right schematics in the factory shop manual (FSM).
    If you have a Volt/Ohm meter, you can check for power at the radio and a good ground.  Power to the radio is through the RD/WH wire, ground is through the BK/WH wire.  If you have premium audo (Bose, probably) you have the 30 Amp AMP fuse with power directly to the power amp on the RD/BK wire.
    If there is more than a small fraction of an Ohm resistance from the BK/WH wire to chassis, check ground G402, which is In the rear compartment, to the rear of the left rear shock tower, below audio AMP.
  11. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from John W Galt in oil pressure low stop engine   
    Just now saw the post.  The problem does seem well in-hand.
    I do agree with BBF and others that you need to work with the dealer that you trust or another mechanic.  And, the first thing I would do if the car was mine is get another oil sending unit and ask the service tech to change it with an oil change, which I would schedule as soon as I had the oil sending unit in my hand.
  12. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from Bruce Nunnally in Transmission help! 4t80e   
    Is this with the front wheels off the ground and engine at idle?  When the wheels are on the ground and you give it a bit of throttle in Reverse, does the car move forward?   Does the car surge against the Park pawl when you give it a bit of throttle in Park?
    This is the FSM entry for "Forward motion in N:
    Checks
    Causes
    DEFINITION: Forward Motion in Neutral
    Forward Clutch Housing
    Feed hole plugged, inspect tower
    Forward Clutch Piston
    Jammed
    Forward Clutch Plates
    Seized or jammed
    Forward Clutch Springs
    Jammed
    Forward/Coast Clutch Support Hub
    Holes plugged
    Manual Valve
    Mispositioned or stuck
    Shift Linkage
        •  Mispositioned     •  Disconnected The only do-it-in-the-driveway DIY check that is listed is to check the shift linkage.  The FSM drawing of the cable attachment to the transmission:

    1 - where the cable attaches to the transmission.  This may be disconnected in your case.
    2 - cable holder, with adjustment.  The FSM adjustment process follows.
    Range Selector Lever Cable Adjustment Notice: Adjust the shift control cable only while the transaxle and the gear selector are in NEUTRAL. Failure to do so may cause mis-adjustment.

     
    Set the parking brake and chock the wheels. Remove the shift cable terminal from the transmission manual shaft lever pin. Pry on the shift cable terminal at the manual shaft lever pin with an appropriate tool. Prying or pulling up on any other part of the shift cable may result in damage to the shift cable .
    Fully lift the adjuster lock button. Ensure that the adjuster is free to move. Place the transmission manual shaft lever in (N) Neutral. In order to find (N) Neutral, rotate the lever fully counterclockwise to (P) Park, and then clockwise 2 clicks into (N) Neutral. Place the gear shifter inside the car to the (N) Neutral position. Use the transmission shift indicator on the console to find (N) Neutral. From under the hood, grasp the shift cable terminal and pull it toward the pin on the manual shaft lever. The shift cable adjuster spring should compress as the terminal is moved toward the pin. Attach the pin to the lever by pushing down carefully until it snaps. Do not pull the terminal beyond the pin and then push back. This action could move the shifter out of (N) Neutral.


    Press the adjuster lock button down flush with the adjuster body. Shift to (P) Park and release the parking brake while applying the service brake. Start the engine and assure all of the indicated gear positions match the vehicle response.
  13. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from Bruce Nunnally in 1997 Eldorado onboard diagnostic trouble codes help.   
    You can start by removing the key from the keychain and use the key without a lot of weight hanging off of it.  Or, the key resistor may be dirty or worn.  If so, you can solve the problem by cleaning the resistor contacts or, at worst, with a new key.
    Sometimes this problem is caused by the contacts for the resistor wearing out within the steering wheel mechanism.  That's a significant repair problem.  I would try a new key first.
    There is a link to a spreadsheet with OBD codes and lots of other information about the 1997 model year Cadillacs.
  14. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from Bradd in Remote Starter Install on 2002 Escalade   
    Follow the written instructions.  Use the solid gray wire in the 2002 Escalade/EXT wiring harness for the actuator signal.
  15. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from Bradd in Remote Starter Install on 2002 Escalade   
    P500 is the wiring conduit to the driver's door, and you probably want to make your splice to the gray wire closer to the left instrument panel fuse block.  The "Fuse Block Left - I/P" is under the dash above the OBD II connector.  I don't have an Escalade but since it's a fuse block, you should be able to have reasonably easy access to it.
  16. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from Bradd in Remote Starter Install on 2002 Escalade   
    From the Amazon blurb, the gray wire they are talking about is probably the door lock actuator line.  Hitting the factory fob "lock" button puts power to that wire, and three hits is apparently what actuates the starter actuation logic in your accessory.  I've attached the schematic that shows the gray wire, which is the one to the driver's door; it's GRY .  Others that could work are any of the GRY/BLK wires that lock the other doors and tailgate, but I suspect that personalization of your car's options could affect these doors - possibly not the locking signals but certainly the unlocking signals.
     

  17. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from CadVetteStang in FWD Autocross & Road Racing Suspension for Eldorado / Seville   
    You are the expert on the requirements and design for your application, which, as I recall, is autocross/gymkhana contests.  I would think that total agility contests like that would favor a level car, as you say.
    I qualify my opinion that the rake is for high speed stability as just that, an opinion.  I based it initially on these points:
    My ETC came with the rake.  The car was exactly on the ride height specifications in the FSM (with new tires) throughout its life. My ETC did not come with a spoiler.  I don't believe that a factory RPO spoiler was available for the 1997 ETC. The owner's manual states "This car will go 150 mph."  Car & Driver timed a 1997 ETC (I believe, it might have been an STS) at 145 mph on their home test track, which has a good straightaway but is not suitable for testing top speed of very fast cars. I'm not at all sure that the ETC body style would be stable above 120 mph without the rake; this is, of course, yet another opinion. The ETC/STS (VIN "9" cars) designed to run with the big dogs on the Autobahn, and the VIN "Y" cars were designed to keep up with traffic (up to 120 mph or 195 kph) .  This is from the car trade mags of the time. The  throttle response and stability at 100++ certainly supports real-world long-distance driving at those speeds, while dealing with similar-speed traffic and real-world roads that are designed to support such traffic.  So says a friend. Now, if I had one to test, and had wheel height sensors available in real time with output available for recording, I could verify the utility of the rake in keeping reasonable weight on all four wheels at speed.  Wheel height, with spring rate, translates into weight on the wheel, a point that is used in the PCM/PZM/BCM in traction control and electronic stability control.
  18. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from rockfangd in My DeVille Got Hit   
    You might fix the car first and make sure that it's OK before you commit to another car.  That puts you back into a normal situation when looking at a later model.  It also gives you something to compare to, the same day, when you drive both cars.  There are a lot of things about the E/K platform that makes those Cadillacs special:  rubber-mounted subframes for both front and rear suspension for quiet and vibration-free ride, multi-link rear suspension with alloy rear A-frames, load leveling, slow-closing trunk lids, etc. and if any of it is not in good shape, you can tell by getting back into your car and driving the same day.
    Something that occurred to me after I thought about why they wanted to put your car under a salvage title, when there was no discernible reason for that:  it can never get another insurance claim again.  The car becomes uninsurable if it has a salvage title.  It also reduces the BBW value to zero.  I'm not a lawyer and I don't have experience with this kind of thing, so if you know better on good authority and I'm wrong, please step up.
  19. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from jndnaps in My DeVille Got Hit   
    Tell the lawyer that you need a few days but don't tell him anything else.  IANAL but I don't think that you ever need to give anyone your title or power of attorney over your title (the same thing, legally) except to sell the car.
    "Under Florida law" can mean anything; the exact statute, and case law on that statute, does have meaning but may or may not be relevant to any particular situation.  As a generic phrase, it's BS.  As a legal technique that they teach in law school under the topic "persuasive logical fallacies" it's called "appeal to authority" or "false authority."
    If you have decided to use another lawyer (which seems to be a good decision based on what I see on this thread), protect his ability to negotiate by not providing other hooks for the insurance company through further communications of any kind.  That means being noncommittal with your current lawyer.  Anything you tell him will almost certainly be passed on to the insurance company after being filtered.  For example, if you say to your current lawyer not to tell the insurance company anymore, or that you plan to get a second opinion, they will likely covey that to the insurance company.
    Remember that this is a public forum and is picked up by search engines.  If your user name here is known to your insurance company, you can bet that they are following this thread.  There is a distinct possibility that it is anyway.  Photos of your car, particularly if the license plate is not obscured, will identify the car for them, if they find the thread and people familiar with your case examine it.
  20. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from jndnaps in My DeVille Got Hit   
    I predict that you will hear nothing for a week or two, then your lawyer will tell you that they are fixing your car.
  21. Like
    Cadillac Jim reacted to Logan in NS300l Northstar Thread Kit   
    It could be done. But you would have to do some careful math. Do not use the markings on the drills...they appear to be in different spots....the stop collars are blocked by a dab of silicone....but that can be removed. 
    Having both the J-42385-500 and J-42385-2030 thread kits sitting here.....unique photo op..
    Both engines use M11 head bolts....so either step drill would work.
    The 500 kit uses insert 11155. The 2030 kit uses insert 112030. Both are M11 and 30mm tall. The only difference is the 1.5 vs 2.0 thread pitch (which you can notice on the tools).
    Picture shows....from top to bottom....500 step drill...2030 step drill....500 tap....2030 tap....500 driver....2030 driver.

  22. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from CadVetteStang in FWD Autocross & Road Racing Suspension for Eldorado / Seville   
    My thinking is that if you do geek out the car just a bit, like you do when you use auto tuning software, having a record of ride height for each wheel could be very valuable in selecting shock damping, evaluating tires, etc.  Very little software can tell when all the tires aren't in the same plane and thus flag wheel hop, for example, and whenever any wheel hits its limit of travel you need to know that the suspension dynamics have gone back to the stone age for that wheel.  I can think of ways that a real-time display from that data could be more valuable in an autocross race than any other dashboard readout.
  23. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from CadVetteStang in FWD Autocross & Road Racing Suspension for Eldorado / Seville   
    The ride height sensors don't have anything to do with the shocks, electrically.  They are little boxes that bolt to the chassis and have arms that stick out, then links from the ends of the arms to a suspension arm.  All Cadillacs that have rear-end leveling have them on the rear.  The ones that connect to the PZM have three-wire connectors (hot on start and run, ground, signal).
    But, I see your point, and also that you have moved on.
    Adding a bolt with a cam on it for quick adjustment of camber for road vs. track is a really great idea.
  24. Like
    Cadillac Jim got a reaction from CadVetteStang in FWD Autocross & Road Racing Suspension for Eldorado / Seville   
    Could you get the ride height data for each front wheel from the OBE II interface and use that to track wheel position?
  25. Like
    Cadillac Jim reacted to CadVetteStang in FWD Autocross & Road Racing Suspension for Eldorado / Seville   
    Thanks for the complement and the story. 
    I was not able to edit my post to add that I use a 7" Dewalt abrasive blade from Lowe's that costs less than $10. 
    I also pre-set the blade depth so it goes about 1/4" below the coil and does not touch the coil bellow.