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Cadillac Jim

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Everything posted by Cadillac Jim

  1. Where, exactly, do things stop working as in the video and instructions? What step are you on? What doesn't happen that is supposed to happen?
  2. Are you using the step-by-step instructions that I posted above? Which step is failing, or stopping you?
  3. What, exactly, is stopping you from getting into the programming mode?
  4. I found a page-by-page manual on manualslib.com and found this" I don't have a list of the 28 programmable options handy. The Crimestoppers web site doesn't seem to have a downloadable PDF manual but they do have a page with videos, including one for programming your unit, that seems compatible with the manualslib.com instrucitons: http://www.crimestopper.com/products/security/security-systems/remote-start/rs00-g5 Scroll down and there are three videos linked at the bottom of the page. One of them is "Programming your remote."
  5. What are you trying to get into the programming mode, the car, or the remote starter? If you are using an remote that works, you don't need to program the car for it again. I looked online to try to identify your unit and get the installation manual. I believe that this is a Crimestoppers RS00-G5 unit. If it's another unit, please get the make and model off the box and post it here.
  6. So, they will use performance measurements to determine restrictor and rev limiter specs so that nobody dominates. Run the tests on bias-ply mud tires.
  7. Keep us posted here. Inquiring minds want to know! And, dialogue during the process of the job, if it runs overnight, can bring up information that can help speed things up for you, and help others that are thinking about the same job and turn up this thread in an Internet search.
  8. Follow the written instructions. Use the solid gray wire in the 2002 Escalade/EXT wiring harness for the actuator signal.
  9. I just checked the 2002 EXT FSM and looked at the schematic for the power door lock actuators, and it seems to be exactly the same as the diagram that I posted for the Escalde on January 6. I think it's the same file on the SI DVD. The PDF file at your link is mostly color photos of connectors with arrows to wires that identify their purpose. From what Logan says, there was a change in the wiring between the 2002 and 2003 model years and the diagrams in the PDF say that the same photos and diagrams apply for all years; this may be true (the PDF file info doesn't address the details that you get in wiring diagrams, just connector wire colors) but I would be careful about using the PDF diagrams from any source outside GM without verifying them against schematics for your car, regardless of model year.
  10. Good to point that out, for the browsers out there; those outnumber the posters by 100 to 1 or better. I don't follow platforms other than the E/K and D, and the CTS, and didn't know where the breaks are in designs.
  11. The diagram and information that I gave are from the FSM for the 2002 Escalade, as provided from the 2011 GM SI DVD 02#2. That doesn't guarantee that it is 100% accurate; nothing is perfect. But it is specific to the 2002 Escalade and I believe that it can be relied upon for that model. OTOH, don't try to use the door actuator wiring diagram I posted abvove for information on other model years...
  12. P500 is the wiring conduit to the driver's door, and you probably want to make your splice to the gray wire closer to the left instrument panel fuse block. The "Fuse Block Left - I/P" is under the dash above the OBD II connector. I don't have an Escalade but since it's a fuse block, you should be able to have reasonably easy access to it.
  13. From the Amazon blurb, the gray wire they are talking about is probably the door lock actuator line. Hitting the factory fob "lock" button puts power to that wire, and three hits is apparently what actuates the starter actuation logic in your accessory. I've attached the schematic that shows the gray wire, which is the one to the driver's door; it's GRY . Others that could work are any of the GRY/BLK wires that lock the other doors and tailgate, but I suspect that personalization of your car's options could affect these doors - possibly not the locking signals but certainly the unlocking signals.
  14. Any engine revision for the Corvette will likely include a horsepower increase. To do that you will need a higher redline and improved breathing, which requires revamping the intake, ports and valves, and exhaust designs. The ECM, cam, fuel injection intake rams, heads, valves, and the exhaust back to the mufflers will not be interchangeable with those of the 6.2 liter engines. If they keep the deck height, the engine weight will be about the same or a little less due to weight savings in the crankshaft. A vibration-free, free-breathing, high-revving engine with a level torque curve can be a real treat to drive with either manual or automatic transmission. The all-aluminum new LT 6.2 liter is a very light engine, only a couple of pounds heavier than the Northstar 4.6 liter, so the weight of the 5.5 liter shouldn't be out of line for its size. And, any difference in weight will not drive chassis tuning is needed for the new engines. Changes in the engine characteristics, of course, will drive chassis tuning, gearing, and driving techniques, all of which seem to have survived the initial learning curve in great style.
  15. I finally did find something on the 5.5 liter. Yes, all the DPi Cadillacs are running the 5.5 liter engine now. The principal difference between it and the 6.2 liter is the stroke, 52 mm, down 10 mm from the older engine. The simplest way to do this is to use a new crankshaft, 5 mm longer rods, and the same deck height. New cam, intake and exhaust tuning, and port shaping in the heads, with a higher red line, can keep the horsepower about the same and spread the torque curve over 13% wider RPM range, making the car easier to drive and even harder to beat. Note that maximum theoretical breathing is proportional to RPM, but engine stresses and vibrations are proportional to the square of the RPM. The pistons, rods, and crankshaft must be about 27% stronger to provide the same reliability margins with 13% higher operating RPM. The amazing thing about this engine, like the previous versions, is how they get the horseower with an OHV engine and not a DOHC configuration. With OHV, not only do you have vibration modes in spring-loaded roller tappets, pushrods, and dual valve springs, but there are mechanical restrictions on port angles and valve/port placement that are relieved with a DOHC arrangement. Then, you have the interesting complexity of VVC with a single camshaft axis in the lifter valley as opposed to separate intake and exhaust camshafts. But you are relived of the multiple issues of three cam chains and an idler sprocket. By using longer rods and a shorter stroke, piston stresses and higher order engine vibration is less than it would be if you dropped the deck height and shortened the rods by scaling the whole engine down. And, you get to keep the intake geometry; the old intakes will fit, and you can simply re-tune for higher RPM. The penalty is, of course, weight. This could be an exceptionally smooth engine for its output. Whenever you re-cast the crank and cams, you have a clean sheet of paper on going to single plane crankshaft and the firing order. Going to a single-plane crankshaft drastically reduces the rotating mass but there is a huge increase in second-order vibration, which is canceled in a dual-plane crankshaft V8; this is the reason that Cadillac went to a dual-plane crank V8 for 1924 and no one has produced a single-plane crank V8 for road and street use since then. The huge crank support strength that is necessary to contain secondary vibrations in a dual plane crank V8 is not the same as that required to hold together a single-plane crank V8, but I suppose that a new design would not be necessary. The motor and transmission supports would be quite different, though. For racing only? I would consider a single-plane crank. Put rubber biscuits in the driver's seat and steering linkage.
  16. Apparently they are still running the 6.2 liter V8. Any news on the 4.5 liter V8?
  17. The only time I saw that was at a dealer some years ago, and all the techs were out back to pop an air bag. Apparently GM instructions are not to do it indoors. It didn't jump, which means that they did it right.
  18. I don't know much about air bag design and installation but what you say makes sense. There have been deaths from people who don't wear seat belts that are thrown forward onto an expanding air bag which throws them back hard against the seat. There are recent Takata recalls where the deployment included particles that injured and killed people like shotgun pellets. Aiming the blast upward into the windshield is a good strategy because there are no passengers there during a crash, one would hope. I'm thinking that the turn signal stick cannot be as durable as, say, the transmission shifter, and, until somebody figures out that there needs to be a flex coupling like in some eyeglass earpieces to prevent breakage from abuse, there will be breakage from abuse. Will said that he was changing the turn signal stick and switch today. I'm very interested in hearing from him about how the turn signals work.
  19. I would be pretty surprised if the BCM itself was damaged. It's inside the body shell in a protected spot, right beside the huge under-dash body brace. But the harness and connectors are another story, and C1 on the BCM is where wires related to all the problems go to the BCM. Connectors are pretty easy to check and repair, once you get at them at all. But Will apparently has focused on the multifunction switch, which really is just the turn signals.
  20. One thing I was thinking from the beginning is that a careless driver (valet, teenager with the keys, etc.) could hit the turn signal stalk with an arm or knee and discombobulate the works at the base - the turn signals - while leaving the headlight stuff inside the stick functional. But a violently disturbed driver could do it with a knee and never know that he did it, particularly if he/she wasn't wearing the seat belt/harness. A voltmeter applied to the D BU/W or L BU/W wires (see schematic on Logan's post on Monday at 5:18 PM) from the steering column should be able to see whether the switch is working.
  21. Yes, the car has daytime running lights. This feature, I have read, cuts your accident rate 75%. Daytime running lights are required in some foreign countries, and in most of the US when your wiper blades are on. Most GM cars have had daytime running lights since about 1990. They can be turned off on some models but I don't recommend it myself. How did you verify that the multifunction switch was the problem with the turn signals?
  22. Apparently you bought a car that had a three-panel fender bender and seems to have had the body repaired by a body man, but the car never had the dealer refresh that a body shop would have put the car through to fix the electrical and other "hidden damage" problems. Or, he pulled some harness cables while he was working on the car and didn't know what to do about that. Whatever, his loss is your gain. But be patient with yourself. If you're new to GM shop manuals and solving modern car electrical problems, it's an interesting thing to learn and a great accomplishment when you're done. And, you have a new talent under your belt. You can come back and help others out here on Caddyinfo. Now that you are getting used to the FSM diagrams, you might think about getting your own from eBay. They aren't expensive there and having your own on hand for as long as you drive the car is a great asset to ownership. Whenever I get a car, I get a factory shop manual for it. I looked on Amazon last week and they have a lot of simple voltmeters (actually they measure volts and ohms, check diodes, etc. too) for $12 to $25. You can pay more but if you are new to electrical problem solving, I would start simple and buy what you need when you need it. Later on, you will have a better idea of just what you really need. And, it will be a long time before you need more than a simple meter. The "special tool" voltmeter that the dealer techs use is just a simple multimeter. Do a search on "multimeter" on Amazon to get a list.
  23. Here is a cutaway that shows the BCM: Legend: (1) is the BCM. Note that all the connectors are on the bottom. You should be able to get to them by removing the cover under the glove compartment. (2) is labeled "I/P Trim" and seems to be the dashboard cover. It's popped up in the drawing to show things from the angle of the drawing. You shouldn't have to remove it. (3) is "I/P Compartment Assembly" which is the glove compartment. If you actually need to remove the BCM at some point later, you may want to take that out, but just to get to the connectors, it just tells you where it is relative to the big box as seen from under the dash.
  24. If you download the file, it's a RTF file that can be opened in WordPad, Microsoft Word, or any other word processor. But here it is as a picture of the connector and a PDF fille with the data and information on it. Reminder: This is on the BCM, it's C1, the green connector. 2006_DTS_BCM_C1_Data.pdf
  25. Find the 23-pin green connector on the BCM, C1, see if it is damaged, and check the wires by pulling gently on each one. If it is damaged, or if any wires pull out of their spades, it needs to be repaired. There are repair kits for the spades and replacement connectors. Spades you should be able to get from an auto parts store, and repair kits, spades, and connectors from dealer-based online GM parts outlets like gmpartsdirect.com. I already sent you the data on this connector HERE.
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