Jump to content

Cadillac Jim

Lifetime Supporter
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Cadillac Jim

  1. You can start by having someone push gently toward the fender on the fuel door while you are clicking the release relay to see if that will let the tang pull in and open the door. If that doesn't do it, you will probably need to manually release the fuel door by getting at the latch from inside the trunk. In the 1997 FSM, page 10-7-6, Fuel Filler Door Relesase Solenoid, it looks like the manual cable just pulls on the piston actuated by the solenoid. The screws holding the solenoid or something else may be loose so you should look at the solenoid itself. Look behind the trunk compartment trim panel; follow where the manual release cable was -- it hooks right to the solenoid. Follow the cable from the solenoid up to the latch, which is above it at the level of the fuel door. I would remove the nut holding the latch and its grommet to the fuel door pocket and remove the whole solenoid/cable/latch/grommet assembly and fix it and grease it, then put it back. You can clean and lube the fuel door while the solenoid and latch are out. See diagram below for reference.
  2. The speedometer problem you report is one I have never heard of. The closest thing I can think of is the DIC being set to metric while the driver thought that it was reading English units, so the speedometer reads in kph in stead of mph. Since 62 mph is 100 kph, the speedometer would seem to read high. The giveaways are a light on the speedometer that says "mph" or "kph" depending on the setting. Note that the odometer and trip odometer also read in km instead of miles. Could you explain what you see when the speedometer is reading 20 mph low? How fast is the car going? What kind of road is it on, and what is the other traffic doing? Do you have an analog or digital MPH display? A change in the IPM requires a trip to the dealer because that is where the odometer reading is kept. Someone certified by the state to change odometers must reprogram the IPM so that the new one reads the same mileage as the old one. I'm not sure whether this requires that the dealer actually change the IPM or what is involved with this, but it is necessary to get title and registration on the car, and for it to pass state inspection anywhere. I will say that IPM failures are quite rare, and are caused by jump-starting or charging with the wrong polarity, water damage under the dashboard, or wiring or mechanical damage by attempted repairs or modifications. I don't have direct experience with IPM replacement but others here very definitely do have experience. The DIC is just a set of buttons on the console. On the Seville that's not a big job. Someone with direct experience in changing the IPM and DIC needs to tell you how much it costs and how to get it done. But, I think the first thing that you need to do is get the codes. You can do that at just about any mechanic. All of them have OBD II code readers these days.
  3. ... And, a lot more fun, too. In 1989, I was driving a Ford Escort in L.A. rush hour traffic, on the way to work, and there was some NJ college student in a rental car shooting red lights in a rented Corsica like they do in NJ. I was out of work for a couple of months, and picked up a Pontiac Grand Am GT Quad 4 HO. I noticed the Northstar as it's greatest descendant when the Grand Am began to get irretrievably doggy seven years later, and when I went to trade it on a new 1998 Corvette, the Cadillac people sold me a 1997 ETC in three days -- before I could get the kids driving the new Corvette to show me an option sheet (they wanted me to buy their "demo" before it got 1,800 miles on it and they had to quit driving it). As you can tell by my avatar, signature line, and profile picture, the Cadillac is still my baby after over nine years. And, I haven't been in an emergency room since. I do believe that if I had been in the same situation with my Cadillac, now that you bring it to my attention, I would have simply nailed it and cleared the clown. I still remember seeing the Corsica swerve between two stopped cars to run the light, then wavering the steering but not touching the brakes at all when it hit me, and I told the cop that in the emergency room. The car in the curb lane was a tan Buick and the car in the center lane was a bluish Japanese sedan. I believe that the Corsica was white, and I very clearly remember the egg-crate grille of the 1990 Corsica. The guy in the Buick looked really surprised and disgusted as the guy swerved around him. I was in the left lane of two lanes of traffic turning left, and a young girl in a Geo or some such was on my right. With the Escort, I didn't have the time, power, or legs in low gear to do much, and if I had, I would probably have squirreled it into the car to my right without Stabilitrak. The car to my right was totaled, too, and the smashup was so hectic that no one knew exactly how her car was hit; she thought that she had hit my car although I saw no evidence of that in the wrecking yard. I think the Corsica either knocked my rear bumper into her left front fender an then hit her rear or the Corsica hit and totaled both cars, like a wild shot on a pool table. If I had been in the Caddy, he would at least not nailed me right in the center of the driver's door, and in any case I suspect that I would just be mad and the Cadillac would be repairable. Of course, he probably would have killed the young girl if I had cleared him. Everyone thought that he had killed me. I never saw such a grim police report. Seven bystanders stopped and took the Corsica driver into custody until the police arrived, including an off-duty LAX policeman. I lived because Ford put the "guard rail" in the driver's door of the Escorts, but that's not in the same ball game as a Cadillac's driver protection.
  4. A functional hood louvre! I haven't had one of those since... never mind. At last, underhood ventilation for the CTS. I presume that this is one of those 300 hp direct-injected 3.6 liter V6's. Even the middle-aged mule driver seems to be having a blast.
  5. The mechanical release can be a bit stiff. Make sure that the Valet button in the glove compartment isn't pushed, then try the console button again, with the key off in Park. If you hear a click, then you know that it's a mechanical problem with the latch. Use WD-40 on the latch as well as the hinge, and thoroughly clean it off the paint immediately.
  6. You might also check the torque wishbones and the front motor mount.
  7. EGreen: From the Cadillac History pages for the 1998 DeVille: So, your car will have Stabiltrak if it has a compass mirror. It's hard to tell if it has the audible alarm, but you can tell if you stay inside the car and lock it with the fob, then unlock it with the mechanical (not electrical) door lock and open a door. The garage door opener is easily removed and can go away. tjtjwdad: That's an astounding story, the steering breaking and Stabiltrak driving the car by wire through the engine and brakes. All: All of us activate our Stabilitrak, traction control, and ABS without realizing it. If they are active for a very short time, the DIC doesn't display a message. Recently I reacted to a situation where I needed to merge to a gap about 25 feet ahead of where the car was, driving at night on roads that I wasn't very familiar with. I nailed it at about 20 mph while in 2nd or 3rd gear, it downshifted to low, it first fishtailed (fishnosed? nosewagged?) a little and then broke loose all traction, then it shut down the engine for a smooth shift to 2nd gear and smoothly applied just enough torque to put the car where I needed it to be without further traction issues, all without further input from me, and without a DIC message. It takes more than suspension and steering design to do that, it takes four networked computers working together with the ignition, fuel injection, ABS, and traction control. Since the problem was all over in about a second, the IPM didn't think it important enough to flash a message. All of us have experiences like this, perhaps less obvious or dramatic, whether we realize it or not. If the IPM flashed a message every time a front tire slipped a little on a wet white line at a crosswalk marking when the light turned green and such, it would become such a nuisance that we would ignore it. When the IPM flashes a message, it's because of an ongoing situation that needs the drivers awareness and attention. Just don't expect the wife's Explorer or Cherokee to deal with these things so effortlessly and successfully. This is a safety warning. Us Caddy drivers get spoiled, and expecting these things when they aren't there can be hazardous. If I had been driving something that couldn't handle the unexpectedly bad road surface, I would have instinctively come off the throttle completely and accepted the aggravation of merging without a gap. But, I was in my ten-year-old ETC and I just laughed afterward. For what it's worth, the Car & Driver article that I read about Corvettes and Porches about 1997 put them on road courses and timed slalom courses with and without their electronic stabilization enabled. They said that the car was always faster with it enabled, to their consternation. They wanted to believe that their driving couldn't be improved by interference from a computer that cut the spark advance and touched the brakes, but they were honest in saying that all the best times were turned with the electronic stability engaged, and they recommended never to disengage it unless you were running with the spare or something. As far as doing a bootleg turn with the emergency brake -- there's nothing much that ABS, traction control, or Staibiltrak can do about that except stiffen the shocks to keep the car as stable as possible under the circumstances. The emergency brake is actuated by a mechanical cable and acts only on the rear wheels. Thunder Road bootleg 180's are still with the most adventurous of us -- but not with *my* Cadillac. Perhaps the Stabilitrak trying to compensate with the front brakes and engine is what kept OnyxSTS down to 90 degrees.
  8. The info button is a key on the driver information center (DIC) on all 1997 Cadillacs that cycles through a set of display values: Range to empty tank, or low fuel warning. Average gas mileage (resettable). Instantaneous gas mileage. Fuel used message (resettable). AVG MPH (resettable). ENGINE RPM (if you have the digital instrument cluster, without a tach). Battery Volts. English/Metric reset (toggles between metric and USA units, like kph instead of mph on the speedometer). This information is displayed under the speedometer between the odometer and the trip odometer. If you don't have this display, either the DIC is bad or the IPC is bad, or you have a wiring problem -- or... keep reading. There is a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) on the transaxle that works off the right front half-axle. It drives the odometer and the speedometer, and it is used by computers that operate the transmission, fuel injection, instrument panel (odometer, trip odometer, and speedometer), Stabilitrak, and ride sensing suspension. If it isn't working, you will get a Check Engine light and a transmission that shifts very roughly, poorer gas mileage, zero displays for gas mileage, etc. I can't imagine how the IPC would read 20 mph low. It is probably reading 1/2 the speed or some other multiplier of the true speed like 2/3, and it could be a VSS sensor fault that doesn't cause the check engine light to come on; the miles added on the odometer will multiplied by the same scale factor. Gas mileage displays would be divided by this factor, the transmission would shift at higher speeds, etc. We have seen posts here by people who bought cars only to find out that there was tape over the display between the odometer and trip odometer to hide warnings. I have heard of cars that have had the Check Engine bulb removed by used car dealers or individuals selling their cars. I would have the car looked at by a mechanic if I really did want the car. A 1997 SLS is a nice car and can easily be worth fixing a few problems.
  9. You guys follow JimD's link. It's a quote from a article in the Detroit News from September 14, 2006, about the same time as the WSJ article that I remember, and it says many of the same things and lots of other things. The main difference is that this article gives seat belts the edge.
  10. Electronic stability systems have been shown by usage statistics, according to the insurance industry, to save more lives than air bags and seat belts combined. This I recall from a WSJ article a couple of months ago. The DOT is considering requiring electronic stability control on all cars sold in the US, as it did with seat belts, then air bags. If you have all three, stay sober, keep off the phone, the kids and dogs are in the back seat, the in-laws are home or in anther car, and you ignore aggressive drivers, you can live until God and nature says that it's your time. Otherwise, well, I read once a long time ago that 20% of us will die in automobile accidents. Cadillac started selling Stabiltrak in 1997. Did anyone else have it in production cars before the 1997 model year? I remember something about Car & Driver road-testing Corvettes on road courses and timed slalom course runs with Stabilitrak turned on and off, and some other cars such as Porsche in the same road test, but I don't remember whether this was 1997 or before that.
  11. Regarding the remark by adallak in post #5, which I just noticed, electrolytic capacitors do fail when they get old sometimes. However, they rarely cause a radio to abruptly fail. I think the symptom of the clock display not updating, but updating once to the correct time with a fuse reset, tells us that we have a wiring problem. Looking at the schematics and write-up provided by stefank, the VF (vacuum fluorescent, or green lighted) displays are all contained in the radio control head, which is the part in the console. Putting part of that in the back like in my 1997 FSM doesn't make sense to me as an engineer. Look here first The key thing that I see, with the symptoms described in post #1, is the E&C Data Line, which carries the data from the clock to the console. The figure on page 9A-2 clearly states that the clock is contained in the radio receiver chassis box and that this is connected directly to the E&C data lane. Note that on page 8A-150-0, the schematic tells us that the E&C data line is also connected to the Assembly Line Diagnostic Link connector, which I believe is the OBD I connector under the dash on the driver's side. I would look at that connector for something in it that might be shorting out a connector or two. Since everything on the radio chassis in the trunk is operated from the console switches, and all that data comes over the E&C data line, that strikes me as a place where all the symptoms can be explained with a single wiring problem. Occam's Razor tells us to look there first. On the receiver box side, which is likely easier to get to, the E&C connector is the only wire in connector C4, which is the smaller of the two connectors on the side of the receiver box opposite the antenna coax. Look here next The next thing is to look at the fuses in the trunk compartment fuse block. In particular, I would look at fuse B11, which will operate the radio when the key is on. Fuse D9 will keep the clock running, and it may be cracked, so that 9 Volts are less is getting to the radio, but that is rare. Watch out for a simple ohmmeter check -- sometimes a cracked fuse will look good with an ohmmeter; wiggle and tap it a little while you're checking it and see if the ohmmeter reacts. Fuses are so cheap, I would just put new ones in to avoid the possibility that a cracked fuse was playing with me. The parking light input just tells the console unit when to dim the displays. Of course, a bad ground can cause all of the above. All of the power and ground signals go trough C1, the black connector among the group of three (with one blank jack) on the same side of the radio as the antenna jack. It's the wire on the end by itself, probably BLK. Hopefully you can find the wiring problem or fuse in the trunk, where everything can be gotten to without disassembling anything other than pulling back the trunk liner. This is likely the case, because the wiring problem is likely caused by moisture or dew (or the trunk open in rain or snow, or a slight leak in the trunk lid weatherstripping), which is less likely than in the console, unless you have condensation behind the dashboard. If not, you will need to look at the console connections. On the console side, the connector of interest is C1, the larger of the two on the back of the radio control head in the console. One end of this connector has no wire. Counting from the other end, the connections are Parking lights on (or headlights, signal to dim the displays); probably not a problem. Ignition, (BRN/WHT), coming from fuse D9 in the trunk compartment fuse box. A prime candidate for problems due to a bad connection somewhere (including this connector) or a cracked fuse. A voltage below 9 V here will cause your symptoms. E&C (GRN), the data bus. A bad connection here could cause all the symptoms reported in post #1. L Audio (BRN/WHT). Tape audio output. No reason to suspect this. R Audio (GRN/WHT). Tape audio output. No reason to suspect this. Audio Com (BLK/GRN). Tape audio signals ground. No reason to suspect this. BAT (YEL). This one should always have 12 V (or battery voltage) on it. Since the clock seems to be keeping time even when the display isn't working, this is probably OK. GND (BLK). This is the ground line. A bad connection anywhere on this line can cause all your symptoms.
  12. What they didn't say about global warming is that the total amount of it is about one degree Fahrenheit in the entire 20th Century. That fact that we have a warming trend is pretty much certain now that we have enough data to analyze it to get conclusions with a high confidence limit. The rate of global warming seems to be increasing, and that rate seems to be correlated with rate of consumption of fossil fuels. What we don't know is what is causing this trend, and what, if anything, we can do about it, or whether it will continue; correlation is not proof of cause-and-effect, or anything else, just a hint. The presumption that we are the cause of it and can reverse or at least stop it is not at all understood, and may or may not be true. The best argument for action is that it may be true that it can be arrested or reversed by curtailing use of fossil fuels, and that is better than waiting -- the argument debunked above. Other fuzzing thinking involves actions taken. When you consider a vehicle, an analysis of its emissions from ore to rust includes the energy used to refine the raw materials and to manufacture the vehicle, the fuels and lubricants that it will consume in its useful life and their combustion or disposal, and the mechanics and nature of its disposal and the impact of that on energy and the environment. This is called the "carbon footprint" of the vehicle. An example of how the carbon footprint can be misleading is rechargeable electric cars -- the fossil fuels used at the power plants will likely exceed those used in an internal combustion engine, if comparable vehicles are examined. The difference there is that smokestack scrubbing can be much more effective than a catalytic converter, which can reduce NO and unburnt hydrocarbons emissions but cannot affect the total overall chemical composition of what is emitted at all -- but then there is the issue of where to dispose of all that C02 that is collected by the smokestack scrubbers. This is one of the reasons that the industry has turned to hybrids -- the carbon footprint is likely much better than that of a rechargeable electric car and you can get more miles per dollar. There is a lot of work and data on the environment available lately that goes un-analyzed, or at least un-verified. The famous "hockey stick" curve that was used 10 years ago as an early warning for global warning is an example; it was challenged and became a political lightening rod. Even requests for the data to verify the curve and its conclusions were met with strident objections, a sure sign that the issue was out of control of the scientific community, and which prevented the verification that any decisions based on this data needed. If you will excuse logic that smacks of Robert Ringer, I will also point out that, whether we like it or not, changes will to be made by megatrends -- which can be driven in part, sometimes, by legislation and taxation -- and that your personal choice of your next vehicle will not affect anything at all significantly except your personal situation. I would have an STS-V, CTS-V, XLR-V, Corvette Z06, or some such in a heartbeat with nary a pang if I won the lottery. Heck, I would have them all.
  13. stefank -- yes, the schematics of the circuits that power the radio are necessary. We need the fuses and wiring for the main radio bock, for the console controls, and the speakers. In particular, we need to know where the clock is and where that data gets fed to the console, and how the radio is networked. What I discern from Marika's post is that there are no codes, indicating that the radio module either is working and communicates with the network, or simulates being turned off (now power). More importantly, a first sign was that the clock display quit changing, but updated on being reset by pulling the fuse -- once, after which it reset to 1:30, not 12:00. So, the clock timekeeping module is working but the data isn't getting to the display. Thus it could be the networking or power, or connections between the console unit and the rear unit.
  14. If you can't read the codes, you are looking at a problem right there. Unless the price is really right, I would pass. KBB prices a generic 1997 SLS in Fair condition at $5175, and with the speedometer and ILS problems the condition is Poor. KBB doesn't give prices for Poor condition "because the value of cars in this category varies greatly." Varying greatly from $5175 means a very low price. My instinct is to pass, unless you are looking for a project car.
  15. Most of the time when you see a used car with a lot of early failures it is a car that has spent a lot of time parked outside in the winter with salt snow caked on the underside, or has never left the pavement -- down at the Speed-O-Rama. Low-mileage cars that aren't parked in a garage in Buffalo, NY are in this category. Run the codes (watch out for the P0603 -- it means that the codes have been recently cleared). Put the car on a grease rack and look under it. Do a CarFAX check on the title history. Then, have a mechanic or use-car inspection service look at it for you. Test drive it, including some highway cruise, and check the codes before and after. All this applies to any used car that you are looking at as a possibility for purchase, except checking the codes; if it's not a Cadillac, you need a code reader.
  16. For overall driveabilty, particularly at higher speeds, you need to watch out for offset changes. Steering torques on braking or acceleration by the tire contact patch not being centered at the point where the steering axis passes through it. The steering axis is the axis about which the front wheel rotates when you turn the steering wheel. In a car with struts, this is the axis of the strut. If you change the offset, you need to change the rolling diameter of the tire to keep the tire patch centered on the steering axis. If you change the tire rolling diameter, you change the effective final drive ratio and speedometer calibration. I don't recommend this for a car that is going to be driven every day, particularly at highway speeds. Note that the rolling diameter of the P 225/60 R 16 tires for most 1990's Cadillacs is 26.6 inches. The rolling diameter can be calculated, accoring to a post by Willie Hank, as follows: ((225mm x .60) x 2))/25.4mm + 16" = 26.63" diameter. According to The Tire Rack, a deviation of 3% either way won't hurt driveability for most cars.
  17. Interesting. That's the way the Bose is done, and it makes a lot of sense. The most important thing is keeping the wire from the antenna short, and putting the radio where the coax is 4 feet long will give you better reception on the highway than a setup with the antenna cox 20 feet long, and probably a noticeable difference at that. At this point, I think someone with a 1992-1995 FSM needs to step up.
  18. BodybyFisher describes some common dynamics at dealers. I don't think that there is any such thing as a bad dealer. However, they are all just people, and they work by communicating... Yes, the Service Manager is going to be a career professional at your dealership. Yes, the Service Writer is a combination salesman and clerk, and they rarely are Goodwrench trained. Yes, the technicians are usually Goodwrench trained and usually assigned to the job by an experienced shop foreman that is likely promoted from a position as a Goodwrench tech and may still do jobs himself, such as interpret DTC data snapshots from the Tech II, or fix Marka's radio. At some dealerships, your car is always given to the same tech so that he knows the car, whether it is an oil change or a Timesert job. This is where things can get awkward if the tech doesn't like your old greasy car. I have a brother-in-law who had a Blazer in FL, and he was concerned about it burning oil. He found out that his dealer was filling his Gen IV 5.3 liter to the add mark on oil changes, but charging for that extra quart of oil, and that the oil he was using was mediocre 30W-30 out of a 55-gallon drum to save even more money. He found out when he went to RI to visit relatives for a few weeks and had it serviced there; the RI dealer told him. He started changing his oil at a service station in FL and the problem went away. I suspect that the service manager and owner of the FL dealer knew little or nothing of this. Before I got my Cadillac I had a Pontiac Grand Am Quad 4 HO. This car recommends 5W-30 in the owner's manual and on the oil filler cap. The dealer offered free oil changes for cars bought there while still in warranty, but I quit using them after the first one because they were using cheap 30W-30; the car ran sluggish right out of the shop and the oil turned black and started going down on the dipstick in a week. I asked the service manager about that sometime later, and he told me that GM said that 30W-30 was OK in everything in the summertime. I told him about my experience and he was concerned, and said that he would look into it. I'm sure that they fixed this problem but it did happen. The best dealer is at the mercy of the techs, the service writers, the service manager, and the communications between them. They all do the best they can but the weakest link can manifest itself as what appears to be a smoke-and-mirrors situation or whatever. But, in point of fact, I don't think that there is any such thing as a bad Cadillac dealer. If you have a weird experience with a dealer, give them a few weeks or a couple of months to recognize and fix it and try them again. If you go to the Service Manger or whoever to solve the problem, recognize that whoever you are talking to is embarrassed that a problem occurred and wants to fix it to everyone's satisfaction, and that the service writer and tech are even more so.
  19. Since they are blowing smoke, I wouldn't ask that shop to do anything to my car. There is no way that you could be sucking air in through the case half gasket unless the crankcase ventilation hose to the throttle body was clogged and you were running 17 inches of vacuum in the crankcase, and even then it wouldn't cause your oil pressure to fluctuate. Whether they believe what they are saying to you or not, there is no way that they can be trusted to work on the car. Scoot. If everything is OK except the oil light flicker at idle, get the switch changed before you do anything. Any good mechanic can change the switch. A grease rack or lift makes the job easy. If that doesn't cure it, then, if the flicker only occurs when the engine is really hot, such as long periods of stop-and-stop traffic or when pulling off a freeway to a stop light, you could consider ignoring it. If, with a new switch, it flickers at idle all the time or in normal non-stressful driving, or stays on or blinks instead of flickers, go back to 10W-30 oil. If that doesn't do it, change the oil pump; do the infamous case-half o-ring and oil pan gasket while that is happening. One thing that can cause a normal engine with a good oil pressure switch to flicker at idle is cheating on oil changes with 5W-30 oil. If the people who are servicing your car are just topping it off, the -30 on the 5W-30 will get tired eventually. One thing you might try is an oil change at a new service station or dealer. I don't necessarily recommend the dealer for oil changes for an old car because a lot of them use bulk oil that may or may not be up to the same standards as Mobil 1, Havoline, or whatever you use, out of a plastic bottle, and I've found that some service techs don't like old cars -- and I've seen at least one of them hold old cars in contempt. If you have a good relationship with your dealer and the tech likes you and likes your car, however, you can't do any better anywhere, and I would take it there for everything. Do watch one thing at any dealer, however -- if they offer to let you bring in your own oil, do it.
  20. The dimmable lights on the same circuit as the radio display include the DIC, the climate control backlights and display, the rear blower switch, the heated seat swicthes (if any), the front cigar lighter backlight, the steering column wheel controls for the radio and climate control, and the DIC switches backlight. If they don't work, the dimmable light wire to the radio may be shorted. There's an IPC power supply in the radio that is separate from the radio itself and has its own ground, but is in the same metal box and uses the same harness connector. This is the IPC 16 V "VF Power Feed." I suspect that this is a regulated power supply for the plasma displays in the radio, climiate control console and IPC. This is the INC DIM-1 circuit. It's powered by the IPC. The other dimmable lights -- the door courtesy lamps, the door power window switch backlights, the headlight switch, driving light indicator, and twilight delay slider backlights, are on INC DIM-2 and aren't related to the radio box. If all these dimmable lights work, and you have a clock display on the radio that responds to dimming when the headlights are on and is at full brightness when the headlights are off, then the VF Power Supply in the radio is OK and that part of the radio is working. Paul T has a really good idea. If there is a partial short in the cigar lighter, it might pull the voltage at the radio below 9 volts and that would cause the computers in the radio to glitch out. These radios are full of little computers. Whoops, I see that you replied to Paul T while I was posting. This gets us back to the connector on the back of the radio. Check for a short on the antenna power lead. It goes to the Power Antenna Relay, which is on the forward side hight on the power antenna assembly, and the connector points down. If you pull the harness connector on the power antenna assembly, then these are the terminals: A: Antenna power, from the Antenna Fuse (20 A) in the trunk compartment fuse block. B: From the radio, should be 12 V when the radio is on and the key is on, 0 V otherwise. C: Ground. There are three pins on the connector; With the connector held so that the terminal holes look like inverted T's, terminal A is at the left end, B is the center, and C is the right hand side. A voltmeter will tell you quickly which end terminal has 12 volts on it. If the radio turns on with this disconnected, the power antenna relay has a short.
  21. My money is on the steering wheel sensor.
  22. There was a change in the EGR too, from internal to external, that may or may not have anything to do with the 5 hp difference.
  23. Since your car is a 1992, then my 1997 FSM is on a different model year of the same platform, and is very probably accurate for your radio wiring. More importantly, if your car radio has been working fine for 15 years, it is very unlikely that it decided to quit now. Solid state electronics usually fail, if they are going to fail, while they are young -- a bad component or connection will manifest itself within a few months. The problem is amost certainly wiring. If your radio doesn't have a CD changer, it is the base radio with 6 speakers. My FSM lists it as RPO Code U1L/UW6. If you were really adventurous, you could probably find one of the RPO designations on your options plate. That radio wiring diagram is on two pages of the FSM, 8A-150-2 and -3. Power is from the Radio/Phone fuse in the trunk compartment fuse block. The accessory time delay relay and high/low beam relay are on this same fuse, as are the fuel door release relay and the trunk release relay, so if all these work then the fuse is OK. The voltage for the dimmable interior lamps comes from the radio module (!). I would expect that you don't have dimmable interior lights if the radio module isn't working. You've already told me that the electric antenna isn't working. The most likely thing, with no codes, is a bad connection where the wiring harness hooks to the radio module. A bad ground, or a bad network connection would throw a code. You might be able to reach it under the dashboard. If you can, wiggle it a little and push it onto the radio and see if that does the trick.
  24. Is it possible that ATF got in the oil somehow -- perhaps at a filling station?
  25. I would change the oil pressure switch. If it still flickers a little, I would ignore it. If I ever had the engine out, or if it gets worse -- the light stays on steady without the engine being really warm and idling at minimum speed -- I would change the oil pump.
  • Create New...