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Cadillac Jim

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Everything posted by Cadillac Jim

  1. Get the OBD II codes. Those will tell why the check engine light is coming on. http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html The part of the display that we need is of the form "Pnnnn" where "nnnn" is four digits. When you have the codes, post them here.
  2. The owner's manual says not to use chains on my 1997 ETC because there isn't enough fender clearance. I've seen nylon "chains" for sale that use less than an inch of space, and I suspect that driving very carefully so that you don't use your suspension travel would work with these chains, and I think having a set in the trunk for emergency use would be a good idea. I would just put them on when absolutely necessary, drive like a grandma under 20 mph with them on, and take them off as soon as possible. If you have sheet ice, as this road apparently did, 4WD and snow tires on a 4X4 juste makes a more spectacular projectile sliding down the road backwards. Look at the video and you will see a few of those sliding slowly out of control. On that road on that day, I wouldn't even travel it on chains at <5 mph in anything. The fire trucks with their heavy metal chains could do it, of course.
  3. The videos are not exactly HDTV, but it didn't look like the races were a full quarter mile to me. Those You-Tube videos were a couple of small drag strip races, so the cars were likely stock. A sound track would tell the tale but there is none. The Z06 spun the tires badly off the line and thus basically showed off and let the Caddy go down the road while it was literally blowing smoke. If I had been driving the Vette it would have had very little tire slippage and its escape would look more like a watermelon seed than a smoke bomb. The Caddy with its low 1st gear and 4T80E will get its horsepower to the road quickly. We all know about the flat spot between 10 mph and 20 mph, and right at the shift about 45 mph before the VIN 9 engine comes up on the cam in 2nd gear, but the Caddy pretty much keeps the horsepower on the road once you get over 50 mph. I can believe the race with the Impala.
  4. I had this problem occasionally in another car that I had a few years ago (not a Northstar). I was running 20W-40 in it and a lifter would occasionally tap a bit after a redline rush or two getting into traffic on the freeway. I switched back to 10W-30 and it never happened again. I think that thicker oil than is recommended for the engine is bad for hydraulic lifters.
  5. KBB list this car at about $20,600 retail, without the mangled interior. Someone in Used Cars apparently sent it to a body shop to have some scarred wood fixed... If you make them fix it, the price will likely go to $20K.
  6. There are a lot of variables that can affect a given WOT performance. Among these are When you run side-by-side, you are looking at distance achieved at a given time, which is very sensitive to small things at any time in the run. Cars with identical 0-60 mph times can be a car length apart at 60 mph. The gas in use, in the car can affect the performance, obviously. One gas can be better at the bottom end and not as good on the top end, etc. The spark training of the PCM varies with air and head temperature, fuel octane rating, humidity, and barometric pressure. If you don't have a lead foot, this training won't be optimum. Options such as cabriolet roof (imitation convertible) and moonroof can affect weight. Different tire brand and inflation can very slightly affect overall gear ratio; see first bullet. The transmission "memory" affects the way that it shifts. If you don't have a lead foot, the shifts won't be as firm. Traction control will decrease power. Turn it off before any serious standing-start performance trial. I like Car & Driver times because they are done with 1/4 tank of gas, the cars are weighed, and the times are compensated for temperature, altitude and barometric pressure, and humidity. Of course, you will see differences between production cars of a few percent either way of a typical car, too. And, that's just some of the things that we know about.
  7. Nothing metal needs to come out. There is a plastic safety cover under the dash to the left of the steering wheel, which comes out with two screws. There is a plastic cover under the steering column that you can take out for a little more room for your arm. The metal "cover" under that holds the steering column in place, I believe, and I wouldn't take it out. I took out the plastic covers on both sides of the steering wheel. You need to lie with your head under the dashboard by the accelerator pedal and your torso sticking out the door between the front seat and the door. You can use a chair for support if you need it but I didn't need anything. I worked my right arm up under the dash and followed the wires until I found it. The hardest part was clipping the new one on to the same place on the dash support where I found the old one. It was pretty clear to me that the reason that it was there was to make the click sound right from the driver's seat.
  8. Yes, I heard guys right by the camera yelling for people to look out when someone started down the street of no return. What part of "Chains Required" do these people not understand? You can get close-fitting plastic "chains" even for Cadillacs that simply recommend that you don't use tire chains.
  9. The turn signal flasher is higher up inside the dashboard than the hazard warning flasher. The hazard warning flasher is round and silver and is off to one side a bit. The turn signal flasher is square and black, and mounted in a piece of sheet metal that clips onto a dashboard brace. It has three contacts. It's on the same wiring harness as the hazard warning flasher, so find that and then follow the wires, and be prepared to reach high up into the dashboard behind the speedometer/tach.
  10. The offer lots of engine options for the new STS. The ones that are most intriguing to me are 300 hp direct-injection V6. 320 hp Northstar V8 440 hp turbocharged Northstar in the STS-V I don't know which drivetrains that include the 4WD option, but I know that it's offered (standard?) for the STS-V.
  11. Eldorado sales have been a small fraction of the 4-door sales for a long time. That's why the didn't do a two-door update when they had the platform change in 1998, and discontinued the Eldorado after 2002. People want the four-door. Since they aren't out there in any great numbers, the Eldorado tends to get ignored in some circles.
  12. The STS and ETC had identical drivelines over the 1992 the 1999 model years. The chassis was almost identical thorough 1997, except that the Eldorado is a two-door and the wheelbase is three inches shorter to keep the weight distribution. The Eldorado is a little lighter but the difference is tiny. In 1998 the Seville had a platform change and got 200+ pounds heavier. The SLS and ESC have 275 hp and the STS and ETC have 300 hp (both 5 hp less in 1993 and 1994, and no Northstar in 1992).
  13. I looked around a little for Fresnel lenses and didn't turn up anything inexpensive and appropriate. Perhaps a book or store such as Natural Wonders will have something like that. What you want is something intended for the purpose of enhancing display brightness, not a large science project Fresnel lens intended for solar heating projects.
  14. The shop manual will pay for itself in Advil the first time you do anything with the car.
  15. From the 1997 FSM, pages 6-825 throug 6-828: The EVAP system takes fumes from the gas tank into a tank with a charcoal bed. The charcoal allows the EVAP tank to hold a lot of vapor for its size. Only when the car is warmed up and cruising along, and not shifting or otherwise making the PCM mess with the fuel injectors or mixture, the PCM will command a solenoid to open a little and allow some vacuum from the throttle body to come to the EVAP tank. These fumes are used as a supplementary fuel source with the injectors in the mixture control logic. I believe that a check valve on the buffer tube prevents this from propagating manifold vacuum to the fuel tank. The vacuum purges the fumes from the charcoal, replenishing its capacity. During this process, the oxygen sensors are monitored to make sure that the mixture stays in limits, and if anything happens such as a stop or downshift then purge is terminated. When any vacuum in the gas tank does exist, then any condensation or liquid gasoline is siphoned back from a trap in the EVAP canister into the gas tank.
  16. The camshaft position sensor is (1997 FSM page 6-275) at the "Right hand rear corner of the egine, in the cam carrier, near the ignition coils." The picture on page 8A-201-19 shows it on the passenger side, on the rear head, on the rear side of the head near the firewall, just below the gasket for the cam cover. The two-conductor connector points toward the firewall. If you can reach it, pull it off and check it for corrosion. If not, just wiggle it a little and push it on. I wouldn't change the sensor itself. The crankshaft sensors are on the front of the engine, low, about in the center of the cylinders on the front side. One is right at about the gasket between the block and the pan rail (what I call the bottom case half, or the bottom half of the main bearing cage). The other one is just below it, near the oil pan gasket, and behind the connector for the oil pressure switch. All three connectors point toward the left side of the engine. All three connectors are two conductor with a plastic clip, so you need to pull the clip up with a fingernail or screwdriver to pull them off. If you can't pull them off to look at them and clean them, wiggle them and push them on to make as sure as you can that a good connection is being made.
  17. I would get someone who is more comfortable with Cadillacs. Aftermarket systems that use trunk-mounted amplifiers are more the rule than the exception nowadays and such systems should be a natural upgrade to most factory Cadillac radios.
  18. Check the wiring harness connectors to that sensor. If that looks good, I would look at the battery cables and grounds, particularly the positive battery terminal. A corroded battery cable at the positive battery terminal is known to mimic almost any known problem in our model cars, from bad struts to worn ignitions to fuel pump. If you thoroughly clean the positive battery cable, all three connections, the battery is good (the car starts OK) and the problem is still happening, read on. Here's what my 1997 FSM says for DTC P1377, IC Cam Pulse to 4X Reference Pulse. Excerpts, omitting what you rule out and making use of your previous posts, we have: Condition for setting P1377 is that DTC P1376 not set (i.e. the sensor works at all), engine at 500 RPM or more, and the engine hasn't just this instant. The failure condition is that the number of 4X reference pulses (pulses at four times the cam rotation rate) during four cam rotations is not exactly 16 at least two times in a row. The DTC P1377 will be set if either the cam or 4X sensor has too few or too many pulses. Either can happen with a bad connection to either sensor. At this point the FSM says to check the connectors at the camshaft sensor. The last check in the FSM is to check the terminal contacts at the ignition control module connector C2, terminals A and B (from the crankshaft position sensor, wires are BRN/WHT and PNK/BLK), connector C3 terminal C (the power from the ignition, hot in RUN, wire is PNK), and connector C4 terminals B (Cam signal to PCM, wire is BLK) and C (Fuel Control to PCM, wire is PPL/WHT). As an aside, the manual says that P1377 may be set if all four camshafts are off by one tooth, 10 degrees before top dead center; the engine will also run really bad.
  19. It's not clear from your post whether you have code P1377 or if you read about someone with similar problems on another board and this other guy has the code. Have you pulled your codes? If so, what are all of them? A bad PCM is pretty unusual. Unless you have been doing things like jump-starting other cars carelessly or using fast-charge with the battery connected, module failure is rare. The code you call out is a cam sensor code, and cam/crank sensor failures aren't common except on a run of cars in the 2003 model year and thereabouts, ant these are unusual on a 1996. If you have a sensor problem, you should check the wiring and connectors first because they are more likely to give problems on a 1996 than the sensors themselves. Right now, run the codes and post them here, and let's see what's up with your car.
  20. RockAuto lists the tank from two suppliers, $135.79 fromone and $195.79 from the other. The straps are $17.65. The fuel gauge sending unit is listed at $386.79 and the fuel pump is listed at around $75 (AC/Delco; there are others). If you change the fuel pump you will want to change the wiring harness in the tank; I'm not sure which of these come with it and I didn't see it listed separately on RockAuto. Shop around. Pump gas contains a certain amount of propane and other things that will boil off without some pressurization.
  21. I think that 34-35 psi is going to give you just about all there is in production tires. Anything higher and you are going to be riding on the centers of the tires. I think the warning is based on the assumption that very high tire pressure is probably due to some error in a filling station; my wife thought she had a soft tire once and asked a dumb kid to put some air in the tire; he put in 50+ psi without saying a word. If you have to put more air than that in a tire designed for 30-32 psi with 35 max, you might ask yourself why. I suspect that there is an override for the high air pressure warning, and possibly a change in threshold. Unfortunately I don't have tire pressure warning in my PZM override so my 1997 FSM can't help me address that.
  22. I got a PM question on LEDs, apparently provoked by my last post, that reads in part "I'm wondering if there is a 'way' to brighten an LED display?" Of course, you can increase the brightness of an LED. How, and what is required, include: Increase the current; must increase the voltage or change a limiting resistor and will very likely shorten the life of the LED. Most LEDs are driven by pulses of current; increasing the intensity of the pulses while decreasing the duty cycle can increase the brightness without decreasing the life of the LED if done in moderation, but a fundamental design change may be needed. Adjust the LED so that its light is better focused; this may require a lens change or a new lens. Your best bet is to leave the LED alone and get a sheet plastic Fresnel lens from an auto parts store or a bookstore that focuses the light better and put it over the display. It won't be as bright from the sides but you should be able to see it better. Note that this works for any light display, lighted display, or backlighted display, not just LED displays. The disadvantages are that you must be careful to make the Fresnel lens over the display look good, and in daylight it may be harder to read.
  23. LEDs get very hot at the point of contact. How hot depends on the design. They are diodes, with the semiconductor junction exposed to a transparent coating. In most LEDs, the coating is formed into a lens and there is a dispersion "frosty" coating on the lens. Otherwise the LED has the appearance of a tiny, very bright point of light. A given LED can have only one color. Ordinary LEDs that have been around for years use doped silicon and gallium arsenide. The material and the doping determine the color. Colors come in wavelengths from green (about 550 microns) on the short end to infrared (a little over 1 micron) for inexpensive commercial LEDs available in bulk. The transparent coating may or may not be dyed the color of the LED, but this is just for appearance and does not at all affect the color of the LED. In recent years, silicon carbide semiconductors have allowed commercial manufacture of blue LEDs. Blue-white, or "white" LEDs are silicon carbide LEDs that are designed to produce a broadband light, giving them a white appearance. Very bright blue LEDs are simple to make, leading to a requirement for brighter red and green LEDs because when you have all three you can make the very bright full-color signs like the ones you see on billboards and commercial banners in malls, etc. Silicon carbide LEDs are more expensive than gallium arsenide and silicon LEDs. A two-color LED is actually two LEDs. Current flowing one way lights one of them, current flowing the other lights the other one. Radio Shack makes a tester with one of these, and it lights red if the current flows one way, green if it lights the other, and yellow-orange if you use AC and both light up. You can get these dual LEDs commercially, and I have seen them in bubble packs in Radio Shack. Surface mount technology is used in a lot of modern commercial products because it is just as easy to design as other component mounting technologies, the larger chips can (and occasionally do) have contacts under them as well as on the edges, the packaging is more compact and cools better and thus is more reliable, very thin multilayer flexible circuit boards can be used, and the manufacturing process, wave soldering, is easily used in high-speed production lines. Wave soldering is a method that uses a rectangular vat of molten solder that is maintained at a closely regulated temperature not too far above the melting point. Agitation and flow in the solder maintains a wave of about 1 cm across the width of the vat. Printed circuit boards, cleaned and fluxed if necessary and with all surface-mount components in place with flux or adhesives (usually placed on the board by machine), are passed across this wave so that it wets the bottom of the board, exposing it to a carefully controlled time, temperature, and pressure of solder. The board is cooled and cleaned by a spray immediately after exposure to the solder, and usually there is also a protective coating applied by spray. This gets us to why the parts are different. GM and others buy these boards from manufacturing facilities. They provide working designs, drawings, and requirements. The buys are in batches, and more than once source is nearly always used. A given vendor may provide a different board for a buy initiated at a later date. Thus the boards may be functionally identical and interchangeable, but they are not intended to be identical. They are intended to be inexpensive and replaced as a unit. GM monitors the parts supply chain and watches for problem parts. When a problem part is identified, the design is changed to eliminate the problem. When this happens, the part number is changed. Hence the new blower motor.
  24. I think that we are seeing the rationale for the GM policy of replacing these modules as units, not repairing them. Clearly they have different builds, perhaps even different vendors.
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