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Cadillac Jim

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Posts posted by Cadillac Jim

  1. On 12/17/2018 at 11:44 PM, Dougie8174 said:

    Still having this same issue. The problem im having is, car won't start. 

    Dash reads, "security system problem, car may not start". I had this same problem when i first bought the car from my dad. Solved the problem, found a ground wire under the beatification plate that had broke. Now having the problem again. Any help would ve greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. 

    You can start by removing the key from the keychain and use the key without a lot of weight hanging off of it.  Or, the key resistor may be dirty or worn.  If so, you can solve the problem by cleaning the resistor contacts or, at worst, with a new key.

    Sometimes this problem is caused by the contacts for the resistor wearing out within the steering wheel mechanism.  That's a significant repair problem.  I would try a new key first.

    There is a link to a spreadsheet with OBD codes and lots of other information about the 1997 model year Cadillacs.

  2. Update on December 9, 2018 - a new CarFAX shows that the car still is in my name, over five years after being sold.

    NEVER let someone leave with a signed-over title.  Get their signature and information on the title and put it in for re-registering yourself.  This is why car dealers do all the paperwork and never let the buyer have the title to file.

  3. I'm assuming that you have the 3.6L V6.  Looking at the FSM schematic, the engine pump relay has power to the contacts through a 10 Amp fuse labeled ENG PUMP in the same underhood fuse block as the relay.  There is a 16 Amp EMIS 2 fuse that provides power to the engine pump coil.  The ENG PUMP relay is turned on by the PWR TRN relay in the same fuse block.  You should check the exposed points on the two fuses to make sure that there is voltage to the relay points and the relay coil.  The ENG PUMP relay is a normally open, single-pole, single-throw "space saver" relay, probably AC/Delco part number 19116059 (listed for the horn relay; I couldn't find a listing for the engine pump relay), available from Rock Auto for $7.10.  These are all over the car and I would keep a box of them in the toolbox if you plan to keep the car for a few more years.

    There are five relays in a row on the underhood fuse block on the short edge, the one that ends in a 45 degree angle.  They are, from the 90 degree corner to the 45 degree corner:

    • Horn relay
    • WSW PUMP
    • ENG PUMP
    • RT DRL (HID)

    It looks like there are five more of these relays elsewhere on the underhood fuse block, four of them in an L-shaped group on the other side of the fuse block from the five in a row.  They are:

    • LO BEAM (W/O HID) LT DRL (HID) [nearest the long edge away from the five in a row)
    • FOG LAMP [next to the LO BEAM/LT DRL relay]
    • SPARE [center of a row of three]
    • IGN 1 [in the row of three, farthest from the LO BEAM/LT DRL relay]

    You should be able to use the SPARE relay to check the ENG PUMP relay.

    There should be a label that tells you what all the relays and fuses are.  If not, try to get one from the dealer.  Failing that, come back here and i'll upload an illustration from the FSM.

  4. 2 hours ago, Northstar said:

    Nice upgrade!

    Note that I haven't had that car for over five years now.  I've put the manuals away, but will get them if needed here.  I have GM shop manuals for 2002-2012 model years on DVD, so if you decide to look at a 4T80E from the 2004 model year or later to get the electronically controlled converter clutch, I'll be able to look at the connectors to get a good idea whether it is compatible with the stock 1996 PCM, see if the PCM does anything when the P0730 is set.  I see from my summaries that it is a type C, which means that it turns on the MIL.

    If you do change the final drive ratio, you will want to store it in the PCM with a Tech II to get the speedometer calibration right, and that should turn off the P0730.  I don't know if there is another number in the PCM that you can change when the tire rolling diameter changes, but I would expect that there is.

  5. If all you want is 155 mph, I think all you need is the 3.48 final drive ratio and a tune-up that gives you factory-new ignition and fuel injector performance.  I'm assuming that the P0730 doesn't do anything other than display the code.  Check the compression and see if it is in spec.  Except for the head leakage, the compression should check OK if you plan to push the performance envelope.  If not, you need to look at valves or stuck rings.

    When my car was a few months old, the dealer reprogrammed my PCM for performance.  The car is a 1997 ETC, which probably has the same PCM as your car.  No matter what they tell you, you can program the stock PCM within some limits, and anyone with a Tech II and the proper training should be able to do it.

    My personal opinion is that every Northstar is safe from head gasket failure with regular coolant changes.  I know of only one that was driven regularly, was well maintained, and had a head gasket failure in under 100,000 miles, was a young fellow in Boston with another 1997 ETC, and his happened at about 80,000 miles, I believe.  Since I didn't maintain or tear down his engine, I can't comment on what happened.  He was ripped because one limit on the drivetrain warranty for 1997 was 60,000 miles.  Another personal opinion that others here may not share is that the Timeserts are a perfectly good repair.  One advantage is that with a Timesert repair and new GM head bolts you get the clamping force versus engine temperature that GM designed for this engine.  Just don't cut corners, vet the block for sound bolt holes and don't be afraid to get another block if there is any doubt, and take your time in both the drilling and tapping operations.

  6. Whoops, I forgot about the Z-rated-tires requirement for no speed limiting.  The speed limiting is by retarding the spark and cutting the spark and possibly the gas on the same cylinder(s) intermittently to keep the power down, I believe.  Cutting the gas alone would be hard on the engine and could result in a holed piston.

    Going much over redline won't work well.  The valves will start to float pretty close to the top of redline and the torque will drop off precipitously.  150 mph is pretty much all there is with the 3.71 gears.  Shimming the valve springs may be an option for a bit more redline; check with your engine tuner.

    I'm not aware of any torque converter lockup issues at top speed.  If you use a 4T80E from the 2004 model year or later, the torque converter lockup changed to an electronically controlled converter clutch that year, eliminating all RPM loss once lockup is established.

    If you do go to the Aurora final drive ratio of 3.48, the speed at redline increases to 160 mph.  Using the SLS/ESC final drive ratio of 3.11, the speed at redline is 180 mph, meaning that you will be drag limited.  If you are serious about top speed, I would seriously consider a later 4T80E and the 3.48 final drive ratio from an Aurora transmission.  Check with your performance chip people about disabling P0730 or programming it for your new final drive ratio; it should be a no-brainer with their performance changes because it's just one number to change, and a number that's normally part of the factor/dealer programming of the 4T80E.  That same number in the PCM is probably used in speedometer calibration.

    I believe that GM made a lot more gear ratios for the 4T80E because the RPO range FV0-FV9 includes final drive ratios 3.11 and 3.71, but cover final drive ratios from 2.86 to 4.12.  If you include the FQ2-FQ9 range of RPO codes that includes FQ2 for 3.48, the Aurora standard final drive ratio, the range of final drive ratios goes to 4.53.  There are a handfull of other transaxle ratios listed here:


    but those include other transmissions besides the 4T80E.

    Then, there is use of tires with a larger rolling diameter.  The standard tires for the 1990's E/K platform is 26.6 inches, which is pretty big already.  A clean-sheet-of-paper look at things may have you going to different wheels and tires that have a smaller rolling diameter, which would force you to look at changing the final drive ratio.

  7. The STS and ETC don't have a speed limiter.  The engine redlines at 150 mph.  The final drive ratio could be changed from the STS/ETC "performance" 3.71 ratio to the SLS/ESC 3.11 ratio, or the 3.43 ratio used in the Aurora, but that will trigger P0730 "Incorrect gear ratio" with your stock PCM.  This might or might not be something that you could fix with the reprogrammed PCM; if you are getting the chip from Northstar Performance, ask them about that, and also about changing the final drive ratio when they rebuild your 4T80E.

    Tire-chirping hard shifts as a regular thing are a bit much for daily drivers.  In other cars, I've heard of such changes causing problems in the driveline over time, such as gears or bearings in the differential giving up and such.  You can get exactly the same effect by pulling the shifter down in to 1 for a manual shift to 2 or just to 2 and let the transmission give you the performance shift at redline.  I wouldn't ask for a tire-burning shift if was going to drive the car every day.  They should have a performance shift programming scheme for people that drive the car every day that matches up well with the Stage 3 chip, or even is part of the Stage 3 chip.

    I personally like high drive ratios.  You give up snap off the line for more legs in the lower gears, lower cruise RPM, and possibly higher top speed.  You may get better gas mileage and, depending on the terrain that you drive in and such, longer gears can be easier on the engine.  Performance as measured in the quarter mile may actually improve, or if you have a big flat spot off the line, times will increase - but I don't think that you will have any such flat spot off the line with the 4T80E.

  8. The clockspring is what I was referring to.  Check the rest of the wires down the column and see if that's where the short is.

    If it's a function of temperature and doesn't act up when the wheel is turned, the short might be somewhere else.  I would check the harness at the firewall feedthrough to the horn relay.

  9. If you've already replaced the wiring in the steering column when you replaced the airbags, you have done the worst of the jobs.  If you left the wiring in the steering column, then look at it, some insulation may be worn through somewhere.  There is a spiral ribbon cable between the rotating parts and the non-rotating parts that is the first place to look.

  10. The horns are important and may be items on your safety inspection for registering the car.  There are only these items:

    • Horn button and wiring down the steering column.
    • Horn relays.
    • Horns themselves sticking.
    • Wiring and connectors.

    In other words, very doable.  OBD codes may be able to help but you will need either a test light or a voltmenter/ohmmeter to find the problems.  I would start with the relays, if only because that's the simplest fix.  If the horns click when the horn button is pushed, it's the horns themselves, and if you use them a few times they may unstick.

  11. I would check the ground connections.  Begin with the ardruino connections, make sure that they are all good connections.  If you remove any of the splices, use new splices.  Never re-use electrical parts for crimping or splicing.

    I believe that you can still run the OBD codes yourself in a 2006 model; I'm not sure about the SRX model.

    There may not be a problem with the voltage readings.  There are several points that the car reads the voltage:  at the alternator armature, where 15.5 Volts is normal when the battery is charging, which always happens right after you start the car, the system battery voltage which is at the maxifuse block under the hood which should be about 14 Volts when the engine is running, and at the battery, which should be a few tenths of a Volt higher than the system voltage.

    Note that the voltage reading will vary a bit depending on where you have the ground connected.  When you are measuring with a voltmeter, the nearest large metal body part, like a dashboard support, is good.

    Another thing to check if the volatages are strange is the battery ground cable.  There are three battery ground cable connections:  one on the right rear of the engine, one on the inner fender wall near the battery, and a wiring harness connector.  Those all need to be clean and tight.

    Both battery cable connections to the battery should be clean and tight, too.  Sometimes corrosion builds up to the point that the connection is less than perfect on either or both the positive terminal to red cables, or negative terminal to black cables.

  12. The nominal rolling diameter of your 275/40ZR18 tires is 26.66 inches, which compares to the nominal rolling diameter of factory 225/60WR16 tires of 26.63 inches (actual published for factory Goodyears is 26.6 inches).  The difference is negligible, meaning that diameter won't cause  fitment issues and the standard gear rations for the 4T80E transmission (3.11, 3.4, 3.71) will work too.  Any interference issues will come from width or large negative camber at highest suspension travel.  Your new tires are about two inches wider than the stock tires.  With the proper offset (the axis of the strut passing through the center of the patch on the front), that's about an inch less clearance inboard and outboard, which may be tight but certainly doable with possible minor mods of the fender liners.

    Nominal rolling diameter is width*(aspect/100)+(rim size), all converted to inches.  (275*(40/100))/25.4+18=26.66.

  13. I think that this needs a new thread because it's another car and the diagnosis will be independent of the 2011 problem and solution.

    First, why doesn't the door open?  Can you open it with the handles?  Is is stuck, or is the mechanical mechanism stuck?

    It might make a difference if it's the right or left door.  By "passenger" I think you mean the right door (my thinking is that both of them are passenger doors in the back seat, unless you drive your mother-in-law around).

    In the rear fuse block, there is a 10 Amp fuse marked RRDR MDL.  You can try that first.  If you are lucky, that just could be your only problem.

  14. Don't blame yourself.  Apparently the RS00 was shipped to you in a mode that wouldn't work in your car, and the means of changing the mode to match what your instructions say dosen't seem to be available.

    The quote you gave for the email from Crimestoppers struck me as having inscrutable comments or possibly information not related to your questions or even the RS00.

    One thing you might consider is to email Crimestoppers again, with a very short question:  "How do I get my RS00 into the mode of accepting three clicks on the GM factory remote 'Lock' button to start the car?"  When they come back with something that you can't relate to, or can't figure out how to make things work, then, REPEAT THE QUESTION.  As in "Yes, but, how do I get my RS00 into the mode of accepting three clicks on teh GM factory remote 'Lock' button to start the car?"

    If Crimestoppers has an open forum like Caddyinfo, find it and look for the answer there.  If you don't find it, start your own topic there.  Report back here and give a link to the thread.

  15. I believe that the instructions on changing the mode of the RS00 to 3 push is key.  The instructions on entering the programming mode were for another Crimestoppers unit entirely and don't apply to the RS00; they apparently programmed the remote and the RS00 doesn't have a remote because it uses the car's remote.

    If the car starts with the key as always, the RS00 LED responds to inputs, then if the RS00 has its starter control wire hooked to the Escalade YEL, LT/GRN or PPL/WHT wire and puts power to that, the Escalade should crank.  If the RS00 has its continue-to-run wire hooked to the Escalade PNK wire, and power to that is provided by the RS00 once the Start signal is recognized, the Escalade will continue to run once started.

    Checking the wiring by looking at the splices and connectors and checking the colors is good, but there is no substitute for a test light or voltmeter to make sure that the actual electrical connections are solid.

    Without the instructions to guide me on exactly how the RS00 is hooked to the Escalade, here is what I think might be a way to hook switched power wires from the RS00; you need to check (and correct if necessary) instructions from Crimestoppers for intstalling the RS00.  The wires to the Fuse Block Left I/P connector C3 terminal A may be YEL  to start, terminal C PNK to run; these wires run to the ignition switch.  The wires on C1 are past the fuses and may be used; they are terminal A1 PNK and terminal D5 LT GRN.

    I have to wonder why the RS00 would be shipped in a mode that starts the car when you press Lock once on the remote.  That clearly isn't a useful mode.  Making it necessary for the installer to change the mode during installation is a huge barrier to DIY installation and doesn't seem to have a valid purpose except to discourage DIY installation.  If so, getting through this last step is the key to being done with a successful installation

  16. Without going through the instructions in detail, I would ask if there is a pilot light or LED on the RS00, then getting it to light is the first step.  If there is another that lights up or blinks when you press the Lock button on the remote, that is the second thing to look for.  Or, a test light or voltmeter on the RS00 wire that connects to the GRY wire from the Escalade should blink when you press the Lock button on the remote.  The last thing to check is the starter actuation.

    I don't have the RS00 instructions available, but looking at the starter schematic for your car, the most logical place to hook in an auxilary starter is  either the LT GRN wire on C1 or PPL/WHT wire on C2 of the underhood fuse block.  That wire has power from the car only when you turn the key to Start.  If the car will start with the key, then putting power to that wire should start the car.

    There is one more connection, the RS00 must make for the engine to keep running without the key turned to RUN.  I'm out of time tonight but I can find it on the schematics tomorrow.  The critical wire is the one that lets the car start, the LT GRN or PPL/WHT wire.

  17. The key phrase is "The RS00 does not allow for programming remotes".  I was wondering why you wanted to do that but not having read all the instructions for the RS00, I didn't question that.

    I didn't know that you were trying to use the RS00 in a mode other than the "lock three times" way the instructions talk about.  If you somehow got the RS00 into another mode, you need to get it back to operating as intended for your 2002 Escalade, apparently "option 17."  The only wire that the RS00 needs to "see" is the solid gray wire to the dirver's door lock actuator.

    I don't know what the "lock wire in the truck cab" is, or why they mention it.

    Apparently another unit can program a factory GM remote that has a "start the car" button to operate it. But not the RS00.  This is a good thing, because your existing remote probably doesn't have a "start the car" button.  Even if it does, the RS00 is designed so that you don't need to use it.

    The solution to your problem is to use the RS00 in Option 17 mode and install it as per the instructions, using the "lock three times" signal from your existing remote to get the RS00 to start the 2002 Escalade.

  18. If the remotes work including the unlock and Valet functions, and pressing the Valet button 5 times in rapid succession doesn't work, then either the Crimestoppers unit is bad or the wiring is bad.  If you have a volt/ohm meter or even just a test light, you can check some things pretty easily.  Looking at the GM wiring, these things are pretty constant with year and model:

    • Solid black always means ground.  If you find a solid black wire that isn't grounded, you need to check the ground.
    • Solid red always means "always hot" meaning it should have 12 Volts on it even when the key is off.
    • Solid pink always means "hot in start and run."
    • In your car, the solid gray wire is the driver's door unlock actuator signal.  This signal operates the auto-start feature.
    • Apparently (check the Crimestoppers instrucionts) the BRN wire coming out of the Body Junction Box (or, Relay Block-Body) (terminal H in connector C6) is the power for the interior parking lights, and is flashed when you press the Valet button.  Look in the Crimestoppers manual and identify the Valet signal wire, and check it with a meter or test light to make sure that the Crimestoppers unit is getting the signal when you press the Valet button.

    This is probalby what the Crimestoppers people will tell you to do.

  19. Unless some of your Escalade wiring is not working because of the previous aftermarket installation, then your Crimestoppers unit isn't working.  I would check the battery in the remote before I gave up.  And, I would call Crimestoppers before I went to a tech.  Amazon lists $150.00 for installation and whoever takes it on is likely to ask more, in part because botched installations are often more trouble than starting fresh even if the problem is a bad connection at a wiring splice; although your work doesn't sound like a botched instillation, that is the first thing that will cross the mind when you go in with customer-installed-not-working electronics.

    You can also look at the connectors.  A common problem with new installations is a pin in a connector pushed into the connector so that the contacts don't quite touch.

  20. You're pressing the Valet button 5 times in rapid succession?  If you are, and nothing's happening, I would re-check all the wiring.  Look at the instructions and the colors of the wires on both the Crimestoppers and the Escalade sides of each connection.  If everything is OK with the wiring, check the battery in the remote.  If you still can't get the first step to work, call the Help line for Crimestoppers.

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