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Cadillac Jim

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Posts posted by Cadillac Jim

  1. When you have made the checks that rockfangd recommends, you have looked at the essentials.  If fixing battery, ground, and fuse box connections is all you need, great, you are done.

    My FSM DVD goes back to 2002 but not to 2001.  I'm going to assume that the electrical distribution is the same for the Deville in the 2001 and 2002 model years.

    If the problem is still there, it is likely a cracked fuse (looks OK and works sometimes).  In the rear fuse block, the 10 Amp IGN 1 fuse, if cracked, can cause difficulties with the gauges and radio.  Other fuses include 10 Amp INT LP fuse and 30 Amp AUDIO AMP fuse.

    The FSM drawing of the area under the rear seat on the passenger side is attached.  The legend for the numbers is:

    (1) Battery Positive Terminal
    (2) Battery Negative Terminal
    (3) G300
    (4) SP300
    (5) G301 (SP301)
    (6) Fuse Block-Rear
    (7) S322 (w/V4U) (Limo)
    (8) S323 (w/B9Q) (Hearse)
    (9) SP308
    (10) SP307

    The points labeled SPnnn are splice junctions, or wiring junctions.  The Snnn are simple splices, and the only ones in this diagram, (7) and (8), are commercial vehicles, certainly not the DHS.  The Gnnn points are grounds.




  2. You can't go wrong with Cadillac's recommendation, Timeserts and new studs from GM.  As you note, the GM studs are torque-and-twist.  This method uses long studs from the head to the bottom of the head bolt well in the block as a tension spring, and keeps head clamping force within bounds as the bock heats up and cools down.

    Torque-and-twist is a time-honored method for reliable had studs on aluminum engines of all makes.

    Using steel bolts that are too wide to stretch as the block heats and cools is well-known to result in too-high clamping forces if the engine overheats.

    If you end up pulling the engine again for further repairs, see if you can get the recommended Timeserts for your engine installed.

  3. There is room for both engine types in autos.  As an engineer, I see turbines as the best technology for long-haul 18-wheelers and even trains, but turbines have obvious carbon-capture problems.  Trains have used diesels with electric motors powering the drive wheels since 1924, and turbines driving the generators are the obvious modern design.  For short trips, stop-and-go, plug-in electric is the obvious choice, with some competition from PZEV turbo four-cylinder engines which have decades of development behind them.  For the near term, I see plug-ins and hybrids as becoming dominant in consumer vehicles that are used in town 99% of the time, combustion engines for commercial trucks that run all day, and diesels and diesel-electric hybrids for long haul trucks.  I don't mention turbines because turbines have never found a niche in the automotive world.  Sports cars are a separate consideration, and there are many kinds of sports cars, so the drivetrain technology will likely fork, too.  All-electrics have the edge in drag racing, for example, and you will not see an all-electric entry in a 500-mile race anytime soon.

  4. I would start with making sure all the fuses are good, then disconnecting the battery for a minute or two.  After driving the car for a day or two to let everthing relearn, go to Autozone or other outfit that will read your OBD II codes if you are still having problems.  Please post the OBD II codes here.  The codes will likely tell what is not working or getting power.

  5. There are two fuses to check:  Under hood fuse block, fuse 42 RDO, 15 Amp, and the instrument panel fuse block fuse RSE, 5 Amp.  Going farther than that needs more information.  Does your nav system or anything else on the front seat screen come on?  Any other details will help.

    The best thing to do is to go by an Autozone or other outfit that will read out your OBD codes and give them to you, then post them here.

  6. All cars have an oil filter adaptor, because casting a block with an oil filter center thread and O-ring gap is not really a thoughtful thing to do.  If anyone ever puts a jack under your oil filter, you will be thankful for that feature.

    If someone has put a dummy in place of your oil filter, that's not a good thing to leave there.  Chilton's manuals are still available for vintage cars, and you can verify the oil filter placement and part number for name brands like Fram or AC/Delco.  If you need a new adaptor, a salvage yard is your best option.  Oil pressure sending units should still be available form the aftermarket.  JC Whitney specializes in parts for cars 10-20 years old but has parts for older cars as well.

    Recycling yard engines for Cadillac years 1963-1975, endings with 390 ci, 429 ci, 472 ci, and 500 ci have similar accessory mounting and the oil filter adaptor should work on your 1963 engine.  The older engines were a different design, even the 1959-1962 390 cid, and most parts aren't interchangeable with 1963 and later engines.

  7. What happens when the pedal is on the medal and the engine is holding at 3000 RPM?  Is is missing and stuttering, or is it just wheezing and holding?

    If it's missing and stuttering, it could be ignition problems.  If it's wheezing but smooth, it could be a clogged catalytic converter.  That's just a sample of the possibilities.  We need more information to figure things out.

    The OBD codes can tell exactly what is wrong.  The OBD codes don't show as blinking lights, and sometimes they don't cause a "Check Engine" light to come on.  And, the bulb in the "Check Engine" light can be out.  An Autozone, Pep Boys, or other similar shop will check your OBD I (OBD II started in the 1996 model year) trouble codes.  There is a way to get them from the A/C console yourself, if you are prepared to figure it out for your car.

  8. The two most likely causes of a B0533 are a wiring problem and a worn-out fuel level sensor.  Unplugging the harness and plugging it back in, disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, resetting the codes from the A/C controls, all will have the same effect until the problem is fixed:  no change.  But this won't keep your car from starting.

    What other codes do you have?  The codes most likely to cause a no-start condition are Pnnnn (powertrain) codes.

  9. 2 hours ago, dbc2065 said:


    There are too many digits in your code; I'll assume that it is

    B0533  Fuel Sensor Open/Shorted To B+

    That could be just a bad connection somewhere between the tank and the PCM.  But, usually, it's a bad fuel level sensor, contact worn out and gone open.  Is your gas gauge pinned to Empty or Full?

    You can read and reset the codes from the HVAC controls on a 1997; see link in my signature block.

  10. 3 hours ago, BodybyFisher said:

    This is great to know.  And I am glad you got it running again.  In all my years this is the first Iv see a filter change solve a no drive in drive condition.  Obviously, I know it's possible, but I had never seen it happen before.  

    This is definately solid reasoning to maintain your tranny regularly as I know Cadillac Jim does. 

    This is the first time I've seen a transmission service solve a no-drive problem too.  Yes, I service my transmission every 60,000 miles at most.  Before Dexron VI, it was every 30,000 miles.  Other than a used car that I bought with an overfilled transmission, I've never had an auto transmission problem.

  11. 3 hours ago, krow said:

    the fluid was normal.  fluid ran out when I took the plug out.  the problem was the fluid was not passing thru the filter because it was clogged

    I sort of thought that this is what happened but I had no way of knowing for sure.  I would service the transmission every 60,000 miles or better to keep it working well.

  12. That's wonderful news.  Some micro metal in the pan is normal for any automatic transmission.  It's an old AAMCO trick from the 1960's to show that to a customer to sell a rebuild instead of just a service.

    Be sure and check the transmission fluid level according to factory instructions after running it a few days.

  13. You have the 6-speed?  It looks like it may have been overfilled, which is a sign that the previous owners were having trouble with it and added fluid trying to fix it.  If you have 4WD, there is a remote possibility that you have a transfer case problem.  But, at this point, there seems to be two ways to go:

    1. Get a used transmission from a recycling yard,
    2. Get the OBD codes and evaluate the future of the car and the cost of a rebuilt transmission.

    The OBD codes are important because you can find other problems in the car that may affect your decision.  We can interpret them for you if you post them here.  Be sure and get all of them.  Only a really good laptop-based OBD code reader will get all of them.  They fall in four categories:  powertrain (Pnnnn format, where each n is a number), body (Bnnnn), chassis (Cnnnn) and network (Unnnn).  If all you see are Pnnnn codes, you aren't getting all of them.  The FSM lists about 60 codes to look for from the 6L50/6L80/6L90, all Pnnnn format.  Note that an ordinary DIY code reader that shows emissions-related codes will not show transmission codes.

    You will need the exact model of your transmission.  I don't know where the numbers are on your transmission.  The VIN for your car will be associated with the right parts anywhere on the car, though, so write that down first.  With the VIN, and possibly some numbers off the transmission (if any), you can then identify the right recycling yard used transmission or get a realistic quote for an exchange rebuilt transmission.  Or, you can use the VIN to get the right rebuild kit for your transmission; if you decide to rebuild it, understand that you may need sprags and other parts that aren't always part of a kit.  The "no drive" problem could involve the torque converter, too.

  14. 6L50_Fill_Tube_Plug.pngThe 2009 model year is certainly made after Cadillac stopped allowing the OBD codes to be read through the dashboard.  Also, the 2009 SRX may have the 5L40-E/5L50E or the 6L50/6L80/6L90.  If you noticed whether you have five or six gears before the transmission stopped driving, that can help.  Otherwise, you can use the location of the inspection plug to tell.

    In the 6Lx0 transmissions, the transmission oil level inspection plug is on the bottom of the front, flat part of the transmission oil pan (see figure).  From the FSM:

    "More information, including an instructional video, can be found at the following GM training websites: www.gmtraining.com: 17041.62V - 6-Speed Automatic Transmission Fluid Checking and Filling Procedures, www.gmtrainingcollege.com: A26021.01T - Check and Fill Procedure for 6-Speed Automatic Transmissions."

    By 2009 all GM car and light truck automatic transmissions were using Dexron VI.  Don't use Dexron III in these transmissions.

    If you need to add fluid to a 6-speed, use the fill tube plug (see figure).

    As you know, checking and filling automatic transmission fluid involves warming up the transmission, cycling the transmission through all the gears, and putting the car on a lift while running.  Or, putting it on jack stands before warming up the transmission etc.  I haven't looked at the videos but they probably have enough to refresh you on everything you need to remember.


  15. The 5L40-E/5L50-E used in the 2006 SRX uses a transmission fluid level hole plug.  The FSM shows three locations, depending on model.  The plug is horizontal, just above the oil pan gasket (see figure below).  Full is fluid at the bottom of the hole with the bolt removed.  The FSM says to use a screwdriver as a dipstick to look at and smell the fluid.  Fluid level is supposed to be measured when the fluid is between about 90 F and 120 F, with the car level.  If fluid is OK but low, add fluid until it starts to drain out the inspection hole.

    The filter is inside the pan, as with most automatic transmissions.

    For the "no drive" condition, the FSM symptom table is dire.  The headings are Forward Clutch Assembly, Forward Clutch Sprag, Fluid Pump, Low Clutch Sprag, and Input and Reaction Carrier (gears).  Perhaps fluid leaked out while the car was sitting and the fluid pump needs a higher fluid level, though.

    I believe that 2006 was the last year that you could read out the OBD codes on the dash info center or entertainment center.  If so, you might read the codes and post them here.  If not, a code reader that includes transmission codes (most home DIY code readers just read emissions-related codes) would help, or you can take the car to an Autozone or other shop that offers to read your OBD codes for free.


  16. The "edit" button has gone away on the post of 9:05 Monday morning.  I think that happens once others have quoted or perhaps "liked" the post.  If you can't re-enable the edit button, please delete the last sentence of the third paragraph that begins "This ...".

    I don't think I could help him very much on the basis of the video.  The STS-V and CTS-V are very different cars and drivelines, except for the transmission.  I would start by reading his OBD codes, though; he must have tons of them.  Bruce or other STS-V owners would know more about his car.  His over-the-air fixes were to take effect in late August according to the video, so that would have come and gone.

    My main concern on the basis of the videos is that there might have been some overvoltage by a battery charger that damaged some modules, because his touch screens didn't respond; I hope that was for the radio modes only.  That can be due to corrupted software, which may or may not be corrected over-the-air.  Normally, disconnecting the battery simply resets all the modules and you need to re-learn the throttle, timing, and such, and re-set the radio station that you were listening to, but certainly simply disconnecting the battery doesn't damage anything.  The wheel sensors could be missing, have wiring or connector issues, etc.  The TPS system probably has missing tire sensors; some tire and wheel people don't know what they are and will simply throw them away and use new valve stems when re-mounting a tire.

  17. The big items were "Spare Parts" at $2,912 and "Other Material" at $3,782".  The bumper guard and paint are supposed to be $250 or less, but they probably replaced the bumper beam and at least one of the two shock absorbers, which can easily run $3K.  But, another $3.7K for "Other Material" that was not itemized???

    A bill of that magnitude from any source must include a full breakdown of all parts, their source, and your cost of those parts.  Some would include manufacturer part number on the parts.  This is very important for Cadillac or any high performance auto repair because many mechanics just call the local parts house and give the make and model, and the parts house will look up the cheapest part that will bolt on in a catalog and neither knows that they have just made the car dangerous to drive within manufacturer's specified performance envelope.  If you have the part number, you can deal with the problem; otherwise, you may not even know about it.  Other mechanics will order the "economy" version of a part and charge for the "performance" version...

    Some of the other documents provided by the dealer may have included such lists.  The guy didn't say.  I did look at one other of his videos on the STS-V, and he spends it complaining about problems with the car that he introduced himself by disconnecting the battery and not reinitializing the modules.  GM fixed the radio over-the-air, and that fix may have solved all his problems, but he made the video before the fixes took effect. [...]

    BBF, please forgive me for my hard knocks anecdotes.  All of them are from experience, though.

  18. Taking an out-of-warranty car to a dealer, any make, is a risk.  Repairs for cars in warranty is monitored by the manufacturer as part of their warranty cost management; they get the used parts and analyze them.  Bad repairs aren't compensated.  Part failures are used to revise designs to make the replacement parts more reliable (so always get the latest part number when getting parts for your car!).

    Repairs on out-of-warranty cars is not monitored by anyone.  Some dealers are great, others aren't.  My experience is that Penske dealers tend to be reliable in correctly reporting problems and in accurate charges, but I have found other dealers that are OK too.  For an education on the subject, take the time to watch this 22:36 video of a Canadian consumer TV show on dealer service:


  19. I once drove my Chevrolet Kingswood 9-passenger wagon up Mt. Washington in NH.  Driving down, there were frequent signs to pull over and cool your brakes, but with ventilated front disks and huge drum rears I had no fade, so I didn't pull over.  When I eventually did, they were smoking, particularly the rear.  Some clown pulled up and wanted to squirt water on my brakes and I told him to leave the car alone.  It was fine.  I drove it for years afterward and never got a brake job.

    I think that the reviewer embarrassed himself on many levels.

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