Jump to content

lex97SLS

Registered
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by lex97SLS

  1. I don’t need it anymore so you can save big$$ All you need to buy are the inserts!

    User for:

    Cadillac Pre 2000 Northstar 4.0/4.6 V8,

    First Repair General Motors

    AND

    NorthStar 2000 V8 General Motors Cadillac & others

    This kit does all!M11x1.5 Headbolt35mm upper bank and 51mm lower bank. This is measured from top of the block to the first starting thread.

    35mm thread depth used on pre-2000 engines!

    $299

  2. thanks for the help i really appreciate it..now wold you recommend the norms from ebay over the Timeserts then? i was lookin at the jakes stud kit but im kinda on a budget right now so i wanna get ones that'll last for alil while until i can get extra money n just rebuild the motor. Hopefully with in 7-8 months i gonna start doin that but for now i just wanna be able to get around.

    From what I have hear, Norms are better because they have a coarser thread pitch, which is what GM eventually went to in '04.

    Just finished a Time-Sert job on mine! TIME-SERT J-42385-2000 Northstar Kit up for grabs!

  3. Ran a block check and confirmed leaking head (Yellow fluid).

    I think that pretty much confirms it. The head gaskets themselves rarely go. It's the bolt threads that pull. Insert all 20 bolt holes even if the threads look good unless this time is just for practice. I would also recommend that you either stud it (northstarperformance.com) or use Norms inserts (ebay). Both have a coarser thread than Timeserts.

    I'll look into norms inserts, had not heard about those.

    Thanks!

    Do you know if there is a DIY with PICS for dropping the cradle? I will be dropping this week.

    Thanks

  4. Ran a block check and confirmed leaking head (Yellow fluid).

    I think that pretty much confirms it. The head gaskets themselves rarely go. It's the bolt threads that pull. Insert all 20 bolt holes even if the threads look good unless this time is just for practice. I would also recommend that you either stud it (northstarperformance.com) or use Norms inserts (ebay). Both have a coarser thread than Timeserts.

    I'll look into norms inserts, had not heard about those.

    Thanks!

  5. To cement it home, you could have a radiator shop test the coolant for by products of a failed head gasket, but you may be able to smell exhaust fumes in the coolant smell inside the tank.

    Napa sells a kit also, but if you can find a shop with a tester, that is quick and easy. Check into the studs also

    You can remove the compressor and ABS unit and set them asided and tie them off. Remove the radiator to make room, protect the AC condenser with plywood.

    I was hoping that was the case with the A/C, and ABS. I bought the Napa test kit yesterday and confirmed the combustion gasses in the coolant (yellow liquid) last night. I will likely be tackling the head gasket/timeserts next weekend.

    Appreciate the help.

  6. I have a 97 SLS with an overheating problem reported by the previous owner. Ran a block check and confirmed leaking head (Yellow fluid). Also performed pressure test and have small leak from side of RAD at 15lbs. Pulled all plugs and #1,3 and 7 are fowled and wet. No oil in water or water in oil, so I assume it is at least a head gasket and possibly the infamous head bolt issue. Top hose get hot way before it should (180deg, so I also need a thermostat. The car does not begin to steam out the exhaust until the engine is completely warm about (20 minutes at idle)and coolant temp is over 215deg. I assume the head bolt issue is causing the leak because the heads appear to have to be hot before separation occurs. If it was just the gasket I would expect it to steam much quicker. My question is, are my assumptions about the bolts reasonable and should I go ahead and order the time certs? Also, do I need to disconnect the HVAC/coolant to drop the cradle? Any DIY on that particular piece would be great.

    Thanks in advance!

×
×
  • Create New...