Jump to content

Andy tiger

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Andy tiger

  • Birthday 05/09/1970

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1996 Eldorado Touring
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Hampshire in The UK

Andy tiger's Achievements


Newbie (1/14)



  1. I thought It was a factory fitted one TBH as it had the key less entry fob with the lock and unlock buttons on it and trunk release button. Sorry my bad
  2. Had a message from the garage They have had it running The diagnostics is way above my head but this is whats been done (Apparently where the Clifford alarm was spliced into the wiring loom there is a resistor that gets put in to bypass the factory immobilizer apparently This resistor had overheated and died or something along those lines. So he has sorted out the the bad/cut wiring and removed the resistor and it started he Just wants to run a few more checks tomorrow to double check that was all it was and not a loose/broken wire that got moved while playing with the wiring. Many thanks for all the help and advice will defiantly confirm if its sorted Subject to tomorrows (Saturdays) Testings
  3. So far he has said He thinks 95% sure its the ECU? is dead But I'm waiting for 100% confirmation on it as he was still testing stuff He's 99% sure its NOT the VATS causing it???. Update on the Update lol He cleared all the codes and tried to start the car and the only code thats coming up now is P0603 which is Control Module Long Term Memory Reset ?? according to the info Jims_97_ETC psychoanalyzed for me on Page 1,,,, So does that mean that my car has forgot what its meant to be doing??? Or does it need a new ECU?
  4. Cheers for all the advice and suggestions But Have finally admitted defeat and spoke with my local garage who are going to get there auto electrician to have a look at it. All the advice has helped to narrow the field on whats wrong so with any luck It will save him some time.... Again Many thanks to all for your time in looking things up and taking the time to post your findings I will let ya all know what he finds out
  5. Cheers for all the help so far I just thought I would let ya all know that I wont be able to do anything suggested until the weekend as my work as taken over a bit and need to catch up ...I Will post any new findings on Saturday And once again Thank you all. Andy
  6. Checked fuse and No there is no power at the fuse or at relay
  7. NO It just Cranks over No Messages come up BUT I will go double check tomorrow to confirm
  8. I have had both of those in the past(quite a while ago actually) but it has never refused to start after I have stopped and restarted
  9. Hi Bob The car does crank over but refuses to even try and start I Have used a electrical test meter and there is no Power to the fuel pump fuse or relay the reading I got for the 10A fuse with the Ignition on was 0.16v and 0.00 at the relays 1 2 3 and 5 connections.. the cars battery reading was 12.6v We ran a wire from the battery to the relay,s power out connection and the fuel pump runs but it still don't want to start. SO we are a bit foxed as to whats up now
  10. Cheers for the replies Ranger and Jim and everyone and your advice and work figuring out the code differences I have Had this reply from a friend on another club forum I use http://www.amvo.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15261&start=45 Is it possible that the immobilizer is playing up just read through this lot.... I had a prob with my car similar to the fault u described (dont know if yours is the same but)..... read on... (sorry but this is written in blonde with my understanding of what Jase did - so hope u understand). There is a tiny metal chip on the key that works the immobilizer... there is a forked prong type device which clips onto this when you place the key in the ignition. Over time this prong thingy gets weak and does not make enough of a connection to the keys chip to work the ignition... so Jase soldered (very carefully) a tiny bit of solder to the chip thingy on the key and it fixed the prob by making the key the tiniest bit slightly wider to connect to the prong thingy. Was fine for months on end n then refused to start again recently... tiny solder thing done again and its fine again. Its something about the resistance but u'd need Jase to answer that. The car then recognizes that there is a prob and leaves the security light on the dash but it disables something that stops it starting. Clear as mud??
  11. I Managed to pull the codes there are quite a few and many thanks for all the help so far PC0603 /History IP1152 /History IP2016 /History IP2750 /History AC1340 /History AC1348 /History AC1350 / History AC2255 / History AC2016 History TC0072 /History TC0073 /Current TC0077 /History RS0044 /Current RS0060 /History PZ1552 /History PZ2473 /History PZ2016 /History PZ2255 /Current NO CODES FOR RFA, CCP, SDM, PCM?
  12. Thank you for you replies. I will go and pull codes tomorrow as its at my yard..I remember I puled codes when I had transmission problems last year But found out the codes are different to the normal US codes as its a export from Japan...I think I remember how to do it if not I think I left the instructions in the car LOL
  13. Hi all been a while My 1996 Eldorado has broke down I had a message on the computer after it cut out saying "check fuel system" but it did restart straight after ? then the next morning it started up fine and never mucked about but after 8 miles it cut out and refused to start? I have checked fuses and they are not blown. But the 20amp fuel pump fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay has no 12v power to it according to the book its supposed to be hot all the time? So to check if the pump is ok we ran a wire from the battery to the pump wire bypassing the fuse and relay and the pump sounds like it runs but car still wont start just turns over. Could it be something to do with the immobilizer system Or something I have missed ? what other checks am I missing It has fuel in the tank Many Thanks Andy
  14. right o Have been to a Specialist garage and had the computer read and there is no codes for the gear box coming up. He then took it out for a test drive and It apparently is changing 1st 2nd ,3 possibly but when it goes into 4th gear it seems to be no gear and just revs its little socks off so t is looking like its mechanical fault rather than electrical. He reckons 99% 4th gear is burnt out as the oil smells burnt and is not the red colour it should be so It looks like I will have to have a think on what to do as I have had a quote of £1844.75 GDP which is Roughly $2,922.06USD for a gearbox rebuild with a 12 month unlimited milage warranty. Cheers Andy
  15. Well have had my trusted mechanic look at it and he has managed to remove/syphon off 1 ltr of fluid so the fluid level is now correct and after test drive its defiantly not changing gear It is not even using 1st and 2nd as I first thought but is only using 2nd gear so it looks like the same problem I had a while back with My Winnebago that would not change gear but I bypassed that particular problem with a switch and got it changing gear on a switch (Never found out what was wrong with it ) :fan: He is going to speak with his gearbox specialist on Thursday for any ideas / price for repair :fan: :fan: its starting to look like it going to be an expensive problem to resolve
  • Create New...