Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by rockfangd

  1. If pipes are rusty then externally. Never had one fail internally but my guess would be into the throat of the intake. Doubt it though. You could take the tube off the TB and put a paper towel in there overnight. If you want to look for a external leak check below easy to miss spots. Check radiator side tanks, especially the passenger side. Look for swelling and cracking. Check the cap and neck. Have seen the seal missing or bad under the cap. I did not bring that up right away given your list in the original post. Just out of curiosity did you used to deal with W-Bodies?
  2. Welcome back Intake is dry on these. No fluids pass through. Coolant does pass through the throttle body but I have yet to have one fail. When you say shakey on startup I assume you mean it feels like a stumble. What you describe is exactly what my 96 did when the head issue started to occur. If I drove it daily it did not miss on startup. If I drove it occasionally it would miss on the cold start. The miss is caused because of the coolant leaking into the cylinder(s). Once the coolant is out of the cylinder(s) it runs fine. If this is what yours is doing I highly suspect you are in the beginning stages of headgasket failure. I babied mine for 2 years by adding Bars leak to the lower hose. It would be good for about 6 months, then would start to Cold start miss. Mine never ran hot until the day it eventually blew. Then it blew exhaust into the coolant and boiled it over. Car had over 200k, never did me wrong. Was not worth fixing. If yours is in good shape I highly recommend repairing it. I love mine and have been incredibly reliable
  3. The irish spring is my mothballs. I use a hardwire trickle charger/ maintainer. From Harbor Freight. Not the Jack one but a actual unit. I will snap a pic. Mice are awful where I live. They get through the tiniest of cracks or holes. Although have squirrels and chipmunks as well they do less damage (so far anyway)
  4. You are correct on all aspects. When I put 2 of the 3 pumps I have in place like the one currently wired they start fast and slow quickly. I fully understand that there is lack of resistance of the pump itself (in the valve). How much more resistance is unknown. Once I have a known good motor to mount I will be happy. When I get the old motors to spin ok, they will last for a few days without tripping the lights, then it seems they hit that (bad spot) and bam they don't spin, or pull alot of resistance and trip the lights
  5. Relay is internal to the EBTCM. I have a motor wired to it now. Spins great. No codes. Waiting to hear back from shop on rebuilding one of my bad motors
  6. I do it every year. At least 1 every year, occasionally 2. Best tips. Fill gas tank full. Will keep tank clean and prevent moisture. Non ethanol, high octane is all I run period Put fuel treatment in the tank for how many gallons it takes. I do not disconnect the battery. I put a trickle tender on them all winter. Keeps battery warm and maintained. Leave the car sitting normally. Not on jacks, ramps, etc... I highly recommend running it to temp at least once a month. Helps to keep the oil from completely running down, keep things lubricated and moving. Running up to temp also helps to prevent moisture in the exhaust after shutdown. I get Irish Spring bar soap. 2 in trunk, one on each floor mat, 2 under hood. I open the boxes on both sides, and set. Smells great, and have not had a critter in almost 20 years. If garage is used and subject to water in certain areas I recommend keeping around the car as dry as possible. I personally do not like covers. Have dealt with and without. Still have to wash it either way in the spring. I recommend washing, waxing, vacuuming , and possibly shampooing before storage. Nothing like a clean car in the spring. Better for the finish as well. I pull all 4 mats and put them in the trunk. I realize I am very picky. I leave a temporary mat on drivers floor for when I have to start or move it A commonly missed one is coolant. Check your coolant condition. If coolant condition is not good and or acidic you will likely run into more issues after storage. Acidic coolant seems to cause more damage when sitting than driven. I have stored my Seville for the last 10 years and it is just as clean as when I bought it. Good luck
  7. I could almost deal with it but on mine it defaults to second gear start. I found 3 shops that I will see if one can rebuild one of the motors. If so I will surely post my results.
  8. Ok so I celebrated too soon. I have come to the realization that unlike a Chevy, Parts for these are just not much in existence anymore. Seems nobody rebuilds them, they are no longer available, I bought 3 used ones over the last 6 weeks. 1st could not be located so refunded 2nd is in the car now, Dead. (it does spin but the resistance is too high and motor is weak) 3rd was DOA. I got desperate tonight and cut the positive lead to the motor. I wired up a brand new motor I had in stock (a heater motor), the size is nearly identical. As soon as I started the car the lights are out. Even multiple resets it never fails the test. This proves that the EBTCM, Power circuit, Ground circuit are all good. If any were not it would have still failed. When and only when the engine is first started it comes on for 2 seconds. In that 2 seconds the EBTCM looks for the resistance drawn by the motor. If the resistance is within spec it passes. If it is high or low it fails. I am currently at a loss. My hopes were to drive it but I cannot properly fix the issue. Sad thing is it runs and drives beautiful otherwise. gets 20mpg all day long. Any insight on where I might find a good tested unit would be greatly appreciated. I have tried up to 2002 Eldorado (the last year I know of used) Only in the Eldo til 02 though. Seville was 97, Deville was 99... Thank you all
  9. Possibly. I swear if the problem comes back I am going to find a way to bypass it. Never in all of my ownership have I ever used it. Likely why it has issues
  10. Yay. Success. I will try to keep this short. The replacement pump I installed was missing the ground wire from the ground stud...the nut was just loosely installed. So I looked at it today on a hunch. I remembered that when I was installing the nut to tighten the ground wire that the stud felt a little loose. Upon further investigation I found that there is supposed to be 2 nuts. Assembly goes as follows Plastic insulator between stud and motor body first nut(was missing) ground lug (was missing when I bought pump) second nut. The moral of the story is that the ground to the motor has to be isolated from the body of the motor. When I installed the lug with the one nut it caused the lug to make contact with the body of the motor and the stud. I reassembled it adding one of my original nuts. Immediately lights go out and the motor purrs. I hope forever. If they come back I will dump it in the canal. Lesson learned
  11. NEver really had any other issue other than the valve or vacuum line issue. When the transmission is placed into a driving gear the vacuum is actuated to the valve. I am not sure if the Actuator is in the HVAC programmer to be honest. And if it were then that would be where the input would be. Likely originated from the IPC. I used to have tons of issues with GM HVAC programmers of this era. But never one on any Cadillac. Kudos on that one
  12. Need to see if it is getting vacuum. Does your climate control change positions properly? There is a green IIRC vacuum line that feeds all of that. If you verify vacuum to the release valve in gear then it is likely the valve diaphragm itself
  13. The original pump physically fried. The replacement I believe got damaged in shipping. Something got messed up with the ground stud. If you loosen the nut the stud wiggles. If you tighten the nut just right it shorts when powered. I need to find time to look at it again... I am very tempted to try one off another GM model. The motor itself looks the same but the valve is different.
  14. The trigger is a solid copper lead right from the EBTCM to the motor. No plug. The ground goes to the transmission, I also added an additional ground to the stud. The more I think about it I am thinking the ground stud was damaged. (internally)
  15. Well... Replacement pump died. I got it to work for about a week, then it started kicking the lights again and now it just pulls amperage when cycled. So disgusted.
  16. That is correct. That was the reason I only went with Remy. Am more feeling a little better about this one
  17. Honestly when I am driving my Caddys hard It never crosses my mind. I have owned these for years and have had bare minimal problems. I love to hear the NorthStar roar. If it ever happens then I will worry about it then I do not recommend babying them. They were not designed for that and the ones that are tend to have more problems (EGR, sludge in intake, etc...) I preach to 20 mpg driven spiritedly on both of my 97s
  18. I grab a spare if I see one. They are rather difficult to find. Glad you got them done
  19. There was likely nothing wrong with the coils. Slight possibility of the ICM. (Plate the coils sit on) To date I changed very few of the 2 tower coils. Most failures I ever saw were failed replacements. On all of my Caddys in the last 15 years I have never replaced 1. If you still have the originals I would inspect them and hold onto them if they look good. How did you verify no spark? No sense in replacing plugs yet if you have, or possibly have no spark. HAve you pulled codes?
  20. Thank you. I appreciate the information
  21. Well with the unknown difference I ended up ordering a BBB reman locally. 2 days away. Not what I would have liked but I suppose it will have to do. Says it has a lifetime warranty.
  22. I would not worry one bit about it. With regular maintenance you will have done all you can do to prevent it. If it does happen then worry about it. But I have learned in life that there is no sense worrying about things that could happen but do not always happen
  23. Have someone turn the key on as you listen at the fuel filler tube. The fuel pump should prime for 2 seconds. Do not mistaken this with the air ride compressor which comes on about 20 seconds after key is turned on. Are you certain there is gas in the tank? any way to get a fuel pressure tester?
  24. Hi all. Alternator went in my 97 D'Elegance yesterday. The only one I see on Rockauto that I want is listed for the Concours. I have done alternators on these many times and have never had an issue. My car does not have heated windshield, neither does the alternator listed for the Concours My question is What the heck is the difference between the Concours one and the D'Elegance one? I have no idea why there are 2 different ones listed REMY91409 is the one I am looking at. I really would like to get it in time for this weekend. Thanks all
  25. Does it crank? If it does crank, does it attempt to fire? If it does not crank I would start at the battery connections and work over to the electrical center at the left front strut tower. Look for dirty or corroded connections. What is the voltage shown on the instrument cluster? Welcome to CaddyInfo
  • Create New...