Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by rockfangd

  1. Glad you posted this. I have done tons of these on GMs. I use the torx on the top side going forward to loosen the bolt. Only has to be loosened enough to slide it back, then it drops out. I use a reverse torx to do the install From the sensor side you turn it forward to snug it. I have had nightmare ones. The bolt and sleeve rusts and splits the sensor in half sometimes. I always coat the new one with grease. Glad it resolved your code. I find that sensor throws multiple different codes among GM models. So far most common years are 2004- 2015, same is used on the newer ones too, just have not rusted yet. Wish the sensor was a little cheaper
  2. I used to do that until I started noticing a tick in the spring. I did not like that so I started running it for a few minutes at least once a month. When the engine sits the oil does not get to the top end fast enough to keep from a dry start. I used to pull the fuel pump relay and crank it over for about 10 seconds but have found running it for a few minutes once a month does not affect it. Usually my vehicles are in storage a minimum of 5 months. From November until I am pretty certain the rain has washed away the residual road salt
  3. A hopeful update. I have been driving the car with the dummy motor wired to EBTCM for the last few weeks. System was happy. I picked up the motor I sent to have checked out. I was not satisfied. All I got from paying to have it looked at was learning how to take it apart myself. So I installed the motor. And not surprisingly the lights came back. Now here is where it gets interesting. I pulled the motor back out and disassembled it myself. I found it was filthy inside. The solid wire that is soldered to the plate in the motor was loose (bad solder joint....Ding Ding). I cleaned the brushes, lubricated the bearings, Resoldered the wire connections. I then cycled the motor at 30 second cycles. It seats the brushes. It spun good and consistent when I got done. All of the things I expected the place I sent the motor to find and do... I reinstalled the motor and so far have had no lights. I even braked hard enough to engage the ABS and it performed fine. I am confident in my findings, and results. Typically on a cold morning start the lights would surely be on. So far all good. Now that I know how to disassemble the stupid motors I will service them myself and have a spare. I will post a few pics of how they are assembled when I refurbish the spare. I am still confident the valve and EBTCM were not at fault. Voltages and grounds are good. Was just lazy motors. Remember these cars are getting old. Almost 25 years old. Southern or Northern they are still older. So it is a hit or miss when buying used.
  4. Great. Always be optimistic. Honestly the modules most rarely fail. I have never had one yet. It is almost always caused by a wire or component. This does not apply to all vehicles but most of them
  5. Ok keep us posted. I am curious as I don't know if the 95 is powered by datalink or like the older ones that had a key+ at the radio. I cannot seem to get wiring diagrams anymore so that is not much help. If it is datalink I lean more toward a battery reset solution. If it does have a key+ to the radio I would be checking Radio fuses
  6. I agree completely but did note that the OP said that is what they have saved up. Extra is always good. Now I would not tell the mechanic that lol
  7. Hmm. You are on to something. When you rev the engine it will rock slightly, when you shift into gear it will rock slightly. I bet high revs and reverse shifting rocked the engine forward enough to touch the fan. If the AC was on at the same time I am thinking that is the fan that would be running. I wonder how it came into contact. I have yet to ever have that happen. I know they are close but it sounds like you either have a torque strut(s) issue or the fan was not mounted properly. I hope for you that they are honest and will resolve the issue.
  8. The job should cover the reseal as well. No regrets having it done on my Seville. Glad to see someone saving a truly worthy Cadillac
  9. It never hurts to inspect, clean, and resecure grounds. That one should be easily found. I believe it was just between the dash and the kick panel on the far left.
  10. Thank You. Lots of work to keep it like it is. If I could find complete cladding I would consider trying to do a full swap, but I am certain it is impossible. They are hard enough to find
  11. Just for the heck of it check the temps of the 2 hoses to the core. drastic difference surely means plugged core. Close or same temp without air flowing over core should mean core is ok
  12. Yes. You can actually see the corrosion on the pic I posted. One of the pins was actually corroded off on the wire side. Only thing holding it together was the insulation
  13. Welcome to CaddyInfo. It sounds to me like your radio may be faulty. Can you be a little more specific as to which one you have. Is it cassette and cd or just cassette? If cassette what happens when you hit play button? Is display dead? sound of any kind?
  14. Well I feel I found a needle in a haystack. The front bumpers came in, pics pending. I found something else though. A mint color matched STS grille. My chrome has started to fade and there was always a small crack in one of the grates. First pic is before. Second is after. Picture is not the greatest as the car is parked in the garage. I am going to see if I can have the original rechromed in case I want to reinstall it. Also may or may not change over my heritage of ownership badge. you can see all of the Highway stone chips I have to have repaired. darn truckers
  15. Welcome to CaddyInfo forum. You have come to a great place. Few questions. Does it run fine in park and neutral? In gear does it engage without having to accelerate? When it does not speed up do the RPMs jump or increase higher than normal, or does it bog like it is not getting throttle. I am wondering if you have a TV cable issue but have to think more about it
  16. I do not recommend checking the connectors to the ECM just yet. To date I have never had a problem with one. Check the relays at that electrical center, check the plug that is wide. Located right in that electrical center. It should be easy to see. 30 pin possibly. Wide with 2 rows. I have run into many issues with that one. Unplug and very closely inspect the pins on the mating side and the wire side. I have seen them go bad on both sides. Not sure why they did not insulate that plug
  17. Thanks Logan. I missed the moonroof leak part. 1 of 2 things there. Either the drains are plugged, or one of the hoses popped off the tray. You could take trimmer line and run it upwards through the lines to help clear debris. When the lines get plugged it fills up the tray too much and causes it to leak. I loved the carriage top on my 96 Deville. Had the Opera lights and all. But on a Eldo I am not so sure. Some could pull it off like yours does. Absolutely love the body on yours. That spoiler really tops it off as well. I had a 96 Same color.
  18. Hello. Welcome Few things to check here. First off Battery and connections. Actually remove the stud from the cable ends and closely inspect them. The lugs are supposed to bite into the battery terminal when tightened. If they are flattened then I recommend replacing them. 2. Pull the electrical center cover off driver side strut tower. Closely inspect relays, wires, etc... there. (my bets are the issue is somewhere there) 3. Check the 3 relays at the bottom of the radiator support. They are low on the vehicle and if not sealed can cause issues. They are for the cooling fans. Please post a few pics of what looks to be a beautiful Eldo
  19. Hi All. I just put away my 97 Seville yesterday. It is aging well for the most part but there is a few things I notice. It needs the rubber bumpers for the front bumper. I managed to find a NOS set for 100 this morning. Ordered A few of the chrome bumper trims are just starting to bubble? Not major, just barely noticeable. Overall I am thoroughly impressed with the condition of it for a 23 year old car in NY. Still looks and drives like a new car to the average (not picky) person. I have awful luck finding anything for these. Anyone know of any source. I was using Vintageparts.com. But it seems they are not selling Cadillac parts anymore. Thanks all
  20. Welcome to CaddyInfo. Check the filler tube where the gas cap seats. They get rusty there. Check the filler tube itself. In the wheelwell. They rot there, especially where the bracket is welded. Check for obvious unhooked or broken hose under hood to the purge valve. There will be a green capped test port somewhere atop the engine. Maybe firewall side. As for the misfires, If this is a 4.6l v8 my first bet would be the coil pack unit on whichever bank is showing misfires. It is one unit that does all 4 cylinders on each bank.
  21. Is the chuggle in gear or in park? I am thinking that the TCC would not attempt lockup without meeting the proper parameters. Could be wrong though.
  22. Intrigued here. Just out of curiosity when was the last time you checked the fluid level? When my Torque converter started to act up I would find that the fluid level would increase. Does it shudder at TCC lockup, Around 41mph. If you hang around 40, then slowly accelerate to 41 or so it might shudder before lockup. That is a telltale sign
  • Create New...