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Everything posted by rockfangd

  1. Wow. No fixing that. What a waste if the whole rack has to be replaced. I reached out to a few companies that scratch their head on this. I also found listings on Ebay that said they would work, but when I entered the vehicle specifically they were not compatible I say if the set Logan found would work I would jump on them. I would not leave the rack exposed for long. The dirt and debris will do a number on the shaft and seals, and likely the inner tie rod
  2. I am sorry I was not more specific. It would not hurt to try another dealership. You meant rack and not axle right? Just checking. What is wrong with the old boot?
  3. Ok does it occur on each startup, After cold soak, or all the time? If it happens on cold soak but clears up I lean toward something leaking down into a cylinder(s)
  4. A few things come to mind here. Pop the vacuum line off the top of the fuel pressure regulator. If gas is present in the line or leaking the regulator is bad. IIRC from my past that could cause your issue. Regulator is located at the driver side rear at the end of the fuel rail. Are you losing coolant? Does it misfire on every startup or only after a cold soak? Is the check engine light on or coming on?
  5. First day driving it but slightly optimistic. I ran my errands, then left the car running while I cleared the snow from where it was parked. I did not see any smoke or smell anything while running or after shutting down. Would be great if that was my only issue. I am keeping a close eye on the coolant temp though. Mine always stay around 196. Lately it has been creeping up to 201-205 even cruising. I did change the coolant while apart, I did remove the hollow bolt which was clear. Waterpump, belt, and tensioner look fine. I am hoping to hold off on a radiator until spring. I have a feeling that may be my culprit.
  6. Thats odd. It seems the 2010 STS is compatible with the 2008 CTS, but not listed for the 2008 STS. Where is it damaged? I doubt it is repairable due to the constant movement and flexing. See if you can get the part# from the dealer so it can be crossed
  7. Well I got it back together today. Went pretty well. I have a feeling I am going to have to put a radiator in by spring. Must have got beat up a bit when the engine was replaced. But it holds... I may attempt the rear in the spring.
  8. Have you pulled the code when the light has come on? I wonder what your fuel pressure is. MAybe fuel pressure is low causing a starve under load. Last change of fuel filter?
  9. Ok. I was going to add to your last response. IIRC Disconnect battery for about a minute. Reconnect battery. Start engine and put in gear with your foot on the brake for about a minute. Shut down. Restart and do the same with all loads on, (AC, Defrost, All lights, etc...) See if it goes down. If the TB was very dirty the IAC will need to be relearned. Hopefully above will help that. Let me see if I can find the exact procedure but that usually works for me Check this page out if above does not work. http://www.caddyinfo.com/idlelearn.htm I see it is for the 4.9l . Not 100% sure it will work with the Northstar.
  10. Merry Christmas Everyone.

    Thank you to all of our loyal members

  11. Disassembly went pretty well. Hardest parts were removing the lower egr tube bolt. Lucky I got it out. Took much patience, and positioning the cam cover just right to slide it off the cam. Was leaking the most across the bottom(of course) mainly by the timing chain. Everything looks good underneath though. Now just have to wait for the parts to reassemble
  12. Hi all. I happen to have a little time so I decided to replace the cam cover gasket(s) on my 97 D'Elegance. It has developed a decent oil leak over the last 2 years. Honestly I could deal with the leak except it runs onto that exhaust pipe under the oil pan and the fumes are terrible in the garage and when the HVAC is on. The alternator went recently and it was slobbered in oil. That is a good sign that the valve cover is a source. If that is not the only leak I think I am just going to let it be. My 96 was the same way. Smelled terrible at idle and you could actually occasionally see smoke between the fenders and the hood. I am going to attempt to have it all apart tomorrow, then it will be a waiting game for the gasket kit. I may try and do the back one next year. If someone knows the procedure for the rear I would much appreciate knowing what I am getting into for it. Everyone have a Merry Christmas.
  13. Hello. Let me se what I have for them. I used my last set in spring of this year IIRC. I think they were unseen, therefore not changed until too late, which is another reason why nobody else made them.
  14. Better to remove it. Not too difficult. Not sure if the 94 had the coolant lines to it. I know my 94 Olds did. Use TB cleaner only. Clean the throat behind the butterfly really good. I like to clean the IAC passages good as well. Do not install the TB gasket backward. Trust me it can be done. It will block one of the important ports. Someone else will likely chime in as I thought there was something more about the pre 95 TBs that was common to failure. All my Northstars have been 96+
  15. I would have suggested pulling codes but with a drained battery it can cause random codes. Charge or replace battery, clear codes, retry
  16. Does it chug? Or anything other than just spin over Does the fuel pump prime when the key is cycled on? I would try a spritz of starter fluid into the throttle body and see if it fires. You can pull the vacuum line off the top of the regulator. (driver side) rear of engine at rail). I am not leaning toward the regulator yet though without more info
  17. Ok this may sound stupid but I see ways you checked for fuel, but have you verified spark? Does fuel pump prime when key is cycled on? Do not confuse it with the air ride compressor. Fuel pump comes on first, then shortly after the compressor. Is the security light staying on? any message on dash?
  18. Ok if it is like mine then the whole antenna comes out from underneath. Once the antenna is unbolted it should pull through the black part from underneath. Once it is out you can then remove that trim, but you should not have to remove that. If I am correct the top of the antenna is like a ball that pressure fits into the black part. Let me see if I have a pic of one of mine removed
  19. Ok does the chrome ring have 4 slits in it or is it just a chrome ring? If it has the slits then that is the nut which unscrews before the rubber or plastic can be removed
  20. Ok. Give me a little bit to check into it. Have you unbolted the unit inside the fender?
  21. Can you please post a pic. I will advise from there . I have dealt with multiple different designs. Is the mast broken? Have you unbolted the unit from inside the fender?
  22. Is it rubber or plastic? If rubber it usually pops out of the hole only after the antenna assembly is removed from underneath. If it is plastic then there is a nut that must be removed before it will slide off the antenna and fender. I believe yours would have the rubber design but different types were used over the years. Welcome to CaddyInfo
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