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Everything posted by rockfangd

  1. Can start with just a code reader, something that can give you the codes. Most will give you the actual cylinder misfire code. It will give you the P030X(s) and help to lead you in the right direction
  2. I lean toward the head unit. I say that because the audio is fine on other modes. The tuner unit is part of the head unit. I had a few of these apart, they remind me of a computer tower. All components are mounted inside of the case (tuner, cassette player, cd, antenna amplifier, etc...) I believe that part number should work for you. Superseded number from mine. I used my Matco Scantool. I am sure Snap On ones, probably Genesis, and others should work. Not sure which basic ones will work
  3. I am not sure which head unit you have. There were honestly too many options. I speak from experience when I say these although look identical are not all interchangeable. I have a thread from when I installed these in my 97s. It involved alot of time and research. There are literally 10 or so part numbers for this unit. 2 or 3 of the numbers will work. The rest will not. I remember you do have the Non Bose version of this radio I will post a pic of a 98 one I have in my 97s. I had the dealer program one of mine. I did the other myself with a Scantool. It just clears the vin and when you recycle the key it learns yours You can rewrite the vin on it easily. A trip to the dealer should be very easy. Just tell them you had a spare. If they ask for a receipt ask them how old the car is🙄 I use the storage mode for the winter and have had no issues. Did the battery happen to go dead while in Storage mode? I wonder if you have a bad connection somewhere. You mention you hear channels but like they are off in the distance? Go to this thread for more info on my swap if interested. Type Cadillac Radio Numbers in the search box. You have responded to it too😉
  4. 🤞. Trust me I had my share of ABS issues with my 97 last year. Light has finally been out for over a month. Honestly it is so stupid that it starts in 2nd gear. That is the worst thing about when there is a fault. Thank you for updating us on this
  5. Ok. I have a OTC one that is cheap and reliable. Honestly have had it for a long time so I am sure it has been replaced. Sadly verifying spark is not always good enough on todays systems. They are so sensitive that a spark may still not be good enough. A repeat failure on a coil would not surprise me. I have changed alot of them. If you can get the specific cylinder code you can swap the coil in question and see if it follows. If problem stays to the same cylinder then you likely have another issue, Fuel, cylinder, etc...
  6. Is it the 2 coil pack units? One for each bank. A decent reader will help alot to narrow it down to the cylinder(s) at fault. My very honest opinion is Do not waste any time researching that code. Will be no help. You need the cylinder code. That code is so generic that useless info will come up forever Is there any chance it could be a fuel quality issue? If so it may pass
  7. You should not fry it. The plug pinout should still be the same. I am not sure if the Magnasteer is actually tied to the EBTCM. There is only 2 listings. 1 is without Active Braking 1 is with Active Braking. Compatibility shows 1998-1999 Deville, likely D'Elegance and Concours and Eldo ETC only My assumption is that yours has the Active Braking. May have to check your RPO list. I am thinking a used from the same equipped vehicle should be ok. The programming should be the same and I do not believe those years were vin encrypted like the newer ones. It wouldn't hurt to pull the EBTCM and have a look at it. May be able to see something obvious. I used to go through BBA Remanufacturing to have modules repaired and refurbished. Think they are still around. Did a nice job I think the Magnasteer is more tied to the Magnetic suspension and the power steering system
  8. If it were me I would try it. Honestly I always have a hard time getting straight answers on this. I find trial and error has better outcomes with less stress of trying to ask someone else. I am trying to think of what would be different between the Deville and the Concours EBTCM wise. I have had to replace multiple BPMVs but not the EBTCM. I have one or 2 97s kicking around somewhere.
  9. By chance have you tried removing, inspecting, and reseating the plug to the EBTCM? Sometimes fluids and debris end up all over it and can cause issues over time. Also check the harness to the EBTCM to make sure it is secure and not chaffing on anything. If you clear the code does it immediately come back?
  10. Today I replaced the fuel line. Amazingly I had everything on hand to do it. Hopefully it will last forever. While under there I noted the exhaust pipe under the oil pan is actually dry. Thats great news. Also did not see any coolant leaking, so Very happy I can drive it yet again
  11. Ok. Both sides must be unbolted. the hard side is the driver side because of the fuel filler tube. It is kind of difficult to explain how I get them out/in. IIRC the passenger side has to come straight back, The driver side has to go sideways before back. Sometimes the harness to the ABS on each side has to be removed or repositioned to get more clearance. Rear tires have to hang, I then carefully pry between the body and the cradle closer to the side I am doing. On all the sets I have done I have never done more than that. I honestly did not take specs because at the time you did not need them and were the only one who expressed interest in them. I did install them. Have been keeping an eye out for another set but they are impossible to find. If you could please tell me the rust aspect of what you have. Possibly post a pic once removed. I would be happy to suggest where to go from there. I have made crazier things work in the past
  12. Well ups and downs. Have not seen any oil drips or smelled burning oil, But now have a gas leak and a small coolant leak. This poor car started going to crap the first year having to drive it in the winter. So I have 3 leaks, PS on my truck, Coolant and gas on the caddy🙄. I thought 2020 was over
  13. unless you check the fuel pressure with a gauge there is no way to really say what is good or not.
  14. Have you checked fuel pressure? PCM codes. The first one on the list. Was there evidence of gas in the vacuum line to the regulator? I would pull codes before going any further. Could lead you toward the right direction. Could be fuel pressure, MAP, egr, or other related.
  15. Wow. No fixing that. What a waste if the whole rack has to be replaced. I reached out to a few companies that scratch their head on this. I also found listings on Ebay that said they would work, but when I entered the vehicle specifically they were not compatible I say if the set Logan found would work I would jump on them. I would not leave the rack exposed for long. The dirt and debris will do a number on the shaft and seals, and likely the inner tie rod
  16. I am sorry I was not more specific. It would not hurt to try another dealership. You meant rack and not axle right? Just checking. What is wrong with the old boot?
  17. Ok does it occur on each startup, After cold soak, or all the time? If it happens on cold soak but clears up I lean toward something leaking down into a cylinder(s)
  18. A few things come to mind here. Pop the vacuum line off the top of the fuel pressure regulator. If gas is present in the line or leaking the regulator is bad. IIRC from my past that could cause your issue. Regulator is located at the driver side rear at the end of the fuel rail. Are you losing coolant? Does it misfire on every startup or only after a cold soak? Is the check engine light on or coming on?
  19. First day driving it but slightly optimistic. I ran my errands, then left the car running while I cleared the snow from where it was parked. I did not see any smoke or smell anything while running or after shutting down. Would be great if that was my only issue. I am keeping a close eye on the coolant temp though. Mine always stay around 196. Lately it has been creeping up to 201-205 even cruising. I did change the coolant while apart, I did remove the hollow bolt which was clear. Waterpump, belt, and tensioner look fine. I am hoping to hold off on a radiator until spring. I have a feeling that may be my culprit.
  20. Thats odd. It seems the 2010 STS is compatible with the 2008 CTS, but not listed for the 2008 STS. Where is it damaged? I doubt it is repairable due to the constant movement and flexing. See if you can get the part# from the dealer so it can be crossed
  21. Well I got it back together today. Went pretty well. I have a feeling I am going to have to put a radiator in by spring. Must have got beat up a bit when the engine was replaced. But it holds... I may attempt the rear in the spring.
  22. Have you pulled the code when the light has come on? I wonder what your fuel pressure is. MAybe fuel pressure is low causing a starve under load. Last change of fuel filter?
  23. Ok. I was going to add to your last response. IIRC Disconnect battery for about a minute. Reconnect battery. Start engine and put in gear with your foot on the brake for about a minute. Shut down. Restart and do the same with all loads on, (AC, Defrost, All lights, etc...) See if it goes down. If the TB was very dirty the IAC will need to be relearned. Hopefully above will help that. Let me see if I can find the exact procedure but that usually works for me Check this page out if above does not work. http://www.caddyinfo.com/idlelearn.htm I see it is for the 4.9l . Not 100% sure it will work with the Northstar.
  24. Merry Christmas Everyone.

    Thank you to all of our loyal members

  25. Disassembly went pretty well. Hardest parts were removing the lower egr tube bolt. Lucky I got it out. Took much patience, and positioning the cam cover just right to slide it off the cam. Was leaking the most across the bottom(of course) mainly by the timing chain. Everything looks good underneath though. Now just have to wait for the parts to reassemble
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