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rockfangd

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Everything posted by rockfangd

  1. Ok. Please humor me on a hunch here. Remove the trim at the pull down motor. The paddle switch is secured to the pull down motor with 2 screws. Remove the paddle switch, Carefully inspect and clean its connections (to the pull down motor). If you can ohm test the pins to make sure none of the contacts are broken. Verify the small switch (flip) snaps up and down properly. It is located at the latch on the pull down motor. When the lid switch is closed and the pull down pulls the latch down, that should flip down once bottomed and stop the motor. If the motor is continuing to run I would be suspecting the switch is not working properly or lid latch is out of adjustment, which would not allow the pull down to bottom out. I mention inspecting the paddle switch though because 9 out of 10 of the pull down issues I have come across end up leading to that Here is a video that may help a little bit. To show better view of the assembly. I do not recommend the repair though
  2. Worth mentioning... Have you had the SWRC issue since the IPC was repaired?
  3. They can surely be intermittent. Some give warnings, but not always. I will say that out of all of these I have owned and worked on, I have never had to replace a starter yet. Knock on wood
  4. I'm sorry to say this but I only trust what I see for myself. So many people are not familiar with how the side terminals work. They just think tight is good. But that is not always the case
  5. What is wrong with them. I'm sorry but I highly doubt you will find them anymore. How many do you need? The rubber bushing? or the spacer that goes on the stud?
  6. couple things to try. There is a spacer between the cable ends. Present? If it is, take that apart and clean it well. Rotate the spacer a little bit. The teeth on the cable end that tighten into the spacer can wear over time and cause the problem with the loose cable. Also look at the teeth on the cable ends. If they are flattened then you either need to bend them back out or replace the cable ends. I have cursed GM for years for these stupid side terminals. I have had so many problems over the years because of them. One of the cables does go to the starter. Follow it from the battery, goes under the beauty cover, under the intake, to the starter
  7. Ok. Have you verified if trunk light works properly? On mine if I push the lower paddle at the pull down without pushing the one on the lid it just keeps going up and down. Once I push up on the lid one it bottoms out and clicks. Trunk light works with the one on the lid, which is why I asked that first
  8. Well. Its all back together. Tired me out today. Had to put a left rear caliper as well. Brake was not hanging up but piston would not retract. New springs were almost 2" taller. I was able to pull old ones out without compressing them. New ones would not go without compressing them a bit. Not very fun getting them into their spots. Car sits high for the time being until hopefully the springs settle. I took it for a drive but the air ride did not inflate the shocks. (suspension too high). I am hoping by tomorrow it might. I wish there was a way to manually cycle the compressor like on my 96. Overall job went well. Will post ride results after about a month. I had done the knuckle bushings awhile ago. I replaced them again anyway. Left was still pretty good, right upper was loose
  9. Welcome to Caddyinfo. Lots of good members here😉
  10. Welcome Back. Always good to see returning members. That car is beautiful. Love the color
  11. 😁 Welcome back. Feel free to send some pics. Those are tanks. Good luck with it. No pics. So sad
  12. Welcome to the forum. Great members here from all over😁. Just out of curiosity is there any issues while running? Any check engine light? The OBD1 rarely throw the light unless the problem is occurring.
  13. Good to hear. That can happen. It has happened to me before with aftermarket radios, but not with a oem one. Weird
  14. You can see the clearance issue behind the green bungee
  15. So today I ripped RR apart. I replaced the upper control arm due to bad inner bushings. Was not easy like the FSM made it seem. The control arm has to come up over the shock tower. But there is not enough room. You can see the dent in the wheel well. Makes me sad. I coated it to prevent rusting. Having pulled the knuckle I may not have rebushed it yet... I have done every other one, but maybe not this one. I have them ordered, Upper has play. I always get the poly set.
  16. Well Tomorrow I need to get a little better look at the back end. I tested the knuckle bushings and the right rear knocks a little bit. I probably changed them 10 years ago. I am going to order the springs for it. After all they are 25 years old. FSM shows to remove lower shock bolt, lower stabilizer, support rear of control arm, remove rear control arm bolts, slowly lower rear of control arm to relieve spring compression, remove spring. Assembly is reverse. I also have to look at the upper control arm bushings though as I have been monitoring one that has the rubber splitting. I have a set that I purchased (used) a few years back. So it looks like I have to get a few things done before any long trips
  17. manually manipulate the switch with the lid up. Should have spring tension. If you push it up the latch should stop IIRC. I think the trunk light is tied into that switch as well. I will check mine tomorrow. If that does not work or stays on all the time I would replace that switch
  18. I suggest disconnecting the battery for about a minute. Then hooking it back up. While it is disconnected you can touch the 2 cables together to discharge the system (BAttery must be disconnected) If this does not resolve the issue let us know
  19. Hi All. Looking at options for my 97 Seville. I feel like rear suspension needs help yet again. I installed Arnott shocks a few years back. Have installed the 3rd suspension compressor in the last 5 years. I have not found any leaks but the compressor seems to come on regularly. Honestly the compressor sounds like it is dying again. (just a year old) I would like to replace the rear springs (Variable I believe) but have yet to change a set on one of these. I don't like the way it feels when I go over bumps with the back end. I am also going to check the upper and lower knuckle bushings, but I replaced them about 10 years ago and they have been tight since. Any insight here?
  20. 170 miles today smiling ear to ear. Believe 271 Ride, and ran all day. What a beautiful day. Meet so many nice people.
  21. Ok I believe that points to the switch on the deck lid itself. Open the trunk and look for the switch next to the latch on the lid. You will see the switch without removing the carpeted cover. But to verify that switch is plugged in I believe that has to be pulled back a little
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