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rockfangd

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Everything posted by rockfangd

  1. Are you referring to the TDM (Theft Deterrent Module) Just want to be sure. I need to look more into the fuse description. I don't know why but the first thing I think of when I see CCM is Climate Control Module. Where is this module located on yours?
  2. 1234 is Left rear wheel speed sensor circuit 1235 is Right Rear wheel speed sensor circuit I would be inspecting the harness that runs to the rear suspension. Check to be sure your rear hub assemblies are plugged in, inspect wiring to be sure they are routed properly. If you do not see anything obvious you could try reseating the pug at the EBTCM. Any work done just before problem started? As for the B2711 that has to do with the chip on the ignition key. You may be getting a message that car may not restart. First try another ignition key. If you only have 1 inspect the chip for looseness or damage. If key does not resolve it the problem is very likely the wiring in the steering column broke to the ignition cylinder. You can either bypass the Passlock System or replace the ignition cylinder
  3. First off Welcome to CaddyInfo. How was the system bled? Pump noisy or quiet? I typically jack up the front end after a Power steering repair, Keep the fluid topped off as I turn the steering wheel lock to lock(engine not running) Once fluid level does not drop and wheel has been cranked a few times I then start the engine and let it run for a minute. Shut it off. Top off if needed. Air tends to be harsh on the system so removing the air needs to be done carefully. I have seen new pumps fail from too much pressure (Air in system). If you have it when it is cold then I am thinking internal leak. Once fluid warms up it will fail to pump.
  4. Well. I put over 3000 miles on it in the last 3 months. Have loved almost every bit of it... Until this week. Someone made a mistake and caused an accident. 😭 I am grateful to be able to not have major injuries, but broke my foot which takes me out of work for both of my jobs for... Maybe up to 6 weeks. I have never done that before. I am unsure how the bike is going to turn out. I did everything I could to avoid it, but even if I was in my car I would still have gotten nailed. I have been beside myself. It only takes a second to cause a major accident. Unfortunately that is not enough to stop people from driving erratically and or being distracted. I see it every day. I am surely going to miss my bike for however long I will be without it or another one. Will be at least 6 weeks before I can ride again anyway. This although surely was scary I will not give up on what I enjoy so much. Riding is something I enjoy more than anything in a long time.
  5. Ok so I wonder if it is a weld? I will have to look at one of mine. I have come across GMs that had hinge welded to the body
  6. I could be wrong but I think there is a nut inside of the body there. 2 bolts on the outside, 1 stud on the inside with a nut. Is it upper or lower?
  7. Ok I do believe that 0429 is Rear temperature door actuator position. Should not cause your AC issue. It doe not take much at all to throw that common code. It just means the position of that actuator does not match its commanded position. Have you checked the compressor fuse? How did you jumper the compressor? And how did you verify the system has proper charge? It could be something as simple as a disconnected pressure switch. Welcome to CaddyInfo Forum
  8. Well I hope the lights are gone forever. I hooked the dummy motor back up. System was satisfied. I then ran a small wire off the motor positive wire to the relay I installed yesterday. Still satisfied. So now when the ABS is initiated the dummy motor satisfies the system and the motor on the valve functions from the relay. I engaged it multiple times on my way home tonight and it worked fine and no lights. Very very rare I cobble something, but if it works and I know I did the work, I am ok with that. If I ever figure out what the resistance value is that satisfies the system I will get a resistor to replace the dummy motor. It is important to note here that on these the pump motor does not cycle until the engine is running and proper voltage is present. I timed it to about 3 seconds after the engine starts. Pump motor runs for approximately 1.5 seconds. Was a nice ride home tonight. Car rides great as long as the lights are off
  9. Just to update this. If I decided to retire this car, this would be the largest factor. I put the car away for a month while I drove my Seville. When I pulled Deville out the gremlin returned. Sometimes you start the car and lights are out, sometimes they are on, sometimes after clearing codes a few times they will go out. Sometimes they will not go out. Pump sounds perfectly fine. I am going to replace the maxifuse as I do not like the look of it, but swapped it with another and did not change anything. I then decided to integrate a relay into the pump circuit. Input is a clean 12v. trigger is output from EBTCM, ground is clean ground, output goes to pump. This ensures that the pump is getting a proper clean 12v when triggered. I already know it has clean ground. Still same problem. Sounds fine, system is not happy. I am going to put the dummy motor back on and if the system is happy drive it til I retire it. After buying 3 ABS units and all 3 were no good, new is not an option. If it were a useful feature I would not mind it but it is useless and has never helped me. And the second gear start default is ridiculous. Nothing like stepping on the gas and rolling forward, or backward if on a hill. This issue just keeps coming back to bite me.
  10. Hi all. Could use some motivation. Had my 97 D'Elegance for about 5.5 years. Done so much to it to make it nice. It is the most temperamental one I have owned yet. I had the body work done beautifully... Now rust is plaguing the right rear fender. Started as a bubble, exploded to rust. I constantly wash and coat with oil. Didn't matter. ABS issue keeps coming back. Always shows stalled ABS pump. Defaults to 2nd gear start. So annoying. Have fixed it and have tried to fix it. Sometimes its fine, sometimes its not. Replaced fuel pump unit due to faulty fuel gauge. Well That came back. E F E F E F. Grr. 8 9 8 10 F E. Every time it goes to E it beeps and says low fuel. That's what I get for going with Aftermarket replacement. It also throws lean bank 1 and 2 if you let it idle at operating temps. Rarely see it because I nearly never idle it. I checked fuel pressure, replaced filter, inspected under the hood when I did the forward cam cover over the winter. Nothing out of place. Engine runs beautiful. 20 mpg all day long. I bought TB gaskets to inspect there soon. Will probably pull egr at same time I would love to hit 200k like my others but am tired of the same reoccurring issues. Trust me, I know I am too picky for a 25 year old vehicle. I maintain all of my vehicles the same way. I am not wanting to get rid of it but as a DD I am thinking I may have to start looking for something else. I work too much, and commit too much time to working lol.
  11. That 5v reference code makes me think there is a pinched sensor wire somewhere. Just a hunch. I assume that was not there before all the work was done. Very rarely is the ECM or PCM at fault. (On GMs...) I highly recommend doing a thorough inspection of all what was touched. A harness may be improperly routed, pinched, etc... There may be a loose hose or a cracked, mis seated gasket. A gasket that may be improperly installed. I realize this can make you nuts. Been there
  12. That's what I was leaning toward. Different signals between the brake controller and the position sensor. If you don't mind me asking, what are you looking to tow with brakes?
  13. Hmm. Did the instruction specify for your type of switch? I only ask this because with these newer brake pedal position sensors I have not wired anything to them. I can try and look up a diagram tomorrow. I would say very likely it is not prewired for a brake control output. May be for the lighting but that's it. So you ran a harness to the rear I assume?
  14. Well after 800 miles in the last week I have to say I am very impressed with the handling after replacing the springs. The suspension has settled, but still rides higher empty. The important thing to note here is that before the springs were replaced Ride height was relied upon the air shocks. It would cycle quite a bit, even when unloaded... Now I barely hear it, ride height loaded (somewhere around 550 lbs) Rides level. There is no more riding low in the rear. I do have one thing I have to look further into though... It seems to have a slight sideways bounce depending on certain bumps, Before and after spring replacement. But overall I am most impressed with my results
  15. Ok. Please humor me on a hunch here. Remove the trim at the pull down motor. The paddle switch is secured to the pull down motor with 2 screws. Remove the paddle switch, Carefully inspect and clean its connections (to the pull down motor). If you can ohm test the pins to make sure none of the contacts are broken. Verify the small switch (flip) snaps up and down properly. It is located at the latch on the pull down motor. When the lid switch is closed and the pull down pulls the latch down, that should flip down once bottomed and stop the motor. If the motor is continuing to run I would be suspecting the switch is not working properly or lid latch is out of adjustment, which would not allow the pull down to bottom out. I mention inspecting the paddle switch though because 9 out of 10 of the pull down issues I have come across end up leading to that Here is a video that may help a little bit. To show better view of the assembly. I do not recommend the repair though
  16. Worth mentioning... Have you had the SWRC issue since the IPC was repaired?
  17. They can surely be intermittent. Some give warnings, but not always. I will say that out of all of these I have owned and worked on, I have never had to replace a starter yet. Knock on wood
  18. I'm sorry to say this but I only trust what I see for myself. So many people are not familiar with how the side terminals work. They just think tight is good. But that is not always the case
  19. What is wrong with them. I'm sorry but I highly doubt you will find them anymore. How many do you need? The rubber bushing? or the spacer that goes on the stud?
  20. couple things to try. There is a spacer between the cable ends. Present? If it is, take that apart and clean it well. Rotate the spacer a little bit. The teeth on the cable end that tighten into the spacer can wear over time and cause the problem with the loose cable. Also look at the teeth on the cable ends. If they are flattened then you either need to bend them back out or replace the cable ends. I have cursed GM for years for these stupid side terminals. I have had so many problems over the years because of them. One of the cables does go to the starter. Follow it from the battery, goes under the beauty cover, under the intake, to the starter
  21. Ok. Have you verified if trunk light works properly? On mine if I push the lower paddle at the pull down without pushing the one on the lid it just keeps going up and down. Once I push up on the lid one it bottoms out and clicks. Trunk light works with the one on the lid, which is why I asked that first
  22. Well. Its all back together. Tired me out today. Had to put a left rear caliper as well. Brake was not hanging up but piston would not retract. New springs were almost 2" taller. I was able to pull old ones out without compressing them. New ones would not go without compressing them a bit. Not very fun getting them into their spots. Car sits high for the time being until hopefully the springs settle. I took it for a drive but the air ride did not inflate the shocks. (suspension too high). I am hoping by tomorrow it might. I wish there was a way to manually cycle the compressor like on my 96. Overall job went well. Will post ride results after about a month. I had done the knuckle bushings awhile ago. I replaced them again anyway. Left was still pretty good, right upper was loose
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