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Everything posted by rockfangd

  1. Clear the light and see how long it takes to come back. See if it shudders around 41 mph. If it shudders and the light triggers then it is very likely the torque convertor that failed. Typically that code alone means torque convertor. If it shudders but does not trigger the light it may be in early stages. These were hard to tell when something is not right. They seem to ride nice no matter what lol. If it does not shudder at all around 41 mph and lockup is smooth then I would just monitor it to see if it comes back.
  2. If it is the torque convertor I have seen mysterious higher than normal fluid levels. I had 2 90s ones that had this code, both would have higher than normal fluid level. (I know because nobody touches them but me). I would pull the level back down to normal and within 6 months it would be overfull again. No contamination. I put over 20k miles on my 96 with the code. It started coming on about once every 2 weeks, to eventually it never went away. Would not pass NYSI because of it. I would have to drive it in a way to not trigger the light. This may sound really weird but I have had enough of these over time and feel them very well... I avoid driving around 40mph. I know this may sound weird but the TCC locks up at 41mph. If you drive it around that speed alot the TCC will be working alot. So hard to explain but I have 2 right now and one has 170k, the other has 130k. Both original trannys. I always avoid that speed that TCC lockup starts. Newer vehicles have a variable lockup for the TCC. I assume yours is still a on/off style like mine. How often does the problem occur?
  3. I had to turn off the parallel park feature on my 01 Eldo for the same reason. It never returned to the right position after reversing. As for the driver side one I suggest setting the mirrors where you want them and set the memory. If it continues to mess up both mirrors I would say the issue is likely with resistance in the mirror heads
  4. Beautiful. Glad you resolved it. Someday I may buy another of that body style.
  5. lol. I haven't even had a chance to check it out yet. Maybe within a few weeks
  6. Could use some opinions here. I seem to have an issue. I put this together over 3 months ago. I was hoping the suspension would settle. It has not. Still sits high. I am afraid I ditched the old springs. Ride quality is alot better with everything new, but it just sits too high. I don't think it has settled at all since the install. I really want to get the alignment done but I want to make sure it is right. I have put 3k miles on it so far. Anyone?
  7. Good troubleshooting. You should have some... peace of mind replacing the BCM. Save the old one though. Good luck in finding the climate control module. There should be some still out there.
  8. Just thought I would post an update to this. I love the mufflers. They are perfect for the application. In every way actually. Thank you to the member that recommended them. I am very impressed and they were completely worth the install.
  9. Thank you for your input. I suppose a intermittent loss of crank signal could be a possibility
  10. Been there done that. If you see it you have to grab it. Either crusher or someone else will demolish them. Good luck
  11. Hi All. I have been driving my Seville daily this year and occasionally notice a hiccup on startup. When you try to start the car it will chug like it is going to start. I let off the key but engine did not start. It then takes more than normal cranks to fire it. Sometimes it will almost pop through the intake when it happens. Once engine is running it runs flawless. Fuel is always non ethanol premium fuel. Fuel mileage is excellent at 22mpg. About 250 miles per week travel. Fuel pump and filter are fairly new. OE Delco units. I change the filter annually. Problem seems to occur after sitting for a few hours, but not when started in the morning (first start). I was leaning toward maybe fuel leaking down... Would I be in the right direction with the fuel pressure regulator? Or something else. I am sure this has been discussed. Thanks for reading
  12. Thats totally worth it rather than having repeat failures.
  13. I am sure this will be debated, but here is what I can help with. What is the average outside temp when it is showing around 210? This plays a factor. If age of coolant is unknown it needs to be changed asap. My 2 run 196 all day long. Unless I am sitting hot in traffic, (rarely) A few important things to check. Water pump tensioner. This is a big one. Driver side of the engine just below the black bracket next to the cam cover. Inspect the small belt. Move the tensioner with a 1/4 ratchet. If it does not move easily I would replace it and the belt. Poor belt tension makes the pump slip under load. If you want to replace the thermostat it is cake. It is located on the water pump housing. 2 bolts hold the steel housing onto the water pump housing. Just follow the hose on the driver side. It bears mentioning to have a smell of the coolant surge tank. If it smells anything like exhaust you may have bigger issues, but from what you are saying I am not even going to entertain that yet. As for the coolant, there again if unknown age, condition, mix, etc... Just drain it out and put a proper mix of premixed antifreeze, (easy), or antifreeze mixed 50:50 with distilled water. The coolant is supposed to be Dexcool. They are sold straight or diluted. I run Global in my Deville. I change mine every 2 years regardless of what coolant I run. I have done it for years and have been trouble free
  14. Does it exhaust only, or inflate as well? It is normal for it to exhaust like a minute after shutdown
  15. My Seville had the same whistle issue. Part is cake to replace other than the fact it is between the pump and back of the intake. I got lucky I found a used one. Any Northstar from 92-99 should work fine. I could not find a listing for the valve itself. Maybe pop it out and clean the rubber sealing area. That used to drive me insane. I will try and find my pics of it. It has been some years since I pulled one. It just pops out but has to be done just right. About same miles as mine. Just hit 131000. PM'd you my Email
  16. Nice. Pics please. Honestly I do not see much for our Seville's. My Seville is a 97 as well. My only complaint is that it is not as roomy as my Deville. But that's why I have both lol. Seville is sporty. Deville is comfy
  17. Hello. Were common on the 2000+ engines but not on the 90s. On the 90s there is 2 gaskets. 1 between the MAF and TB, One between TB and Intake I just bought a set for my 1997 Deville just because I want to check the TB and EGR. Fel Pro 61113 is between spacer and intake. Like an o ring Fel Pro 61111 is between Throttle Body and spacer. Gasket
  18. Sounds like you have your hands full. Makes me recommend checking the plugs to the rear hub assemblies. The plug sits between the Air shock and the back of the hub. Last resort if all checks good is to remove and re seat the plug at the EBTCM. I would not trust the key issue if the code is still current. I would have it bypassed if not interested in repairing the wiring or ignition cylinder. All that needs to be done is to cut the wires under the column and install a resistor that matches your pellet resistance between the 2 wires. The system will be happy and always see the proper resistance. There is tons of info on the web regarding it.
  19. I am assuming power lock actuator is not working... What does the inside door handle feel like? I wish I could see it in person, have dealt with so many
  20. Ok a few things here. Did you check the reading with that RAP relay pulled? Being it is shared with that BODY 2 FUSE. If you can go to the CCM and feel it. (Warm) when system is asleep. I would be removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the Ground(s) to the CCM. A poor ground will surely cause weird issues. Unplug each plug to the CCM and inspect them. Make sure the pins are completely intact, clean, and not burnt
  21. It almost sounds like too high of pressure at one time. Maybe someone put the wrong fluid in it at one time and it affected the seals. I will be honest in that out of all of these Caddys of this generation I have never had a rack problem. I better go knock on some wood lol
  22. Thank You for clearing that up. So basically like the E/K platform that uses the IPC as the (Master Module) Don't give up. The Fleetwood is a wonderful model. I need to look into all of the circuits on that module. I would lean more toward something controlled by that module rather than the module itself.
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