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Everything posted by rockfangd

  1. Specifically 96 is the most desired. I cant stand the early 2000s ones. Also did not care for the Allante. Looks nice but probably the hardest to find part. If I could find a decent one for a decent price that I would be comfortable using for a DD I would jump on it. My Seville is still a garage queen. (another one that is impossible to get parts for) I don't need... another mint one
  2. I do care about the gas prices only because of how much it costs to fuel. I average about 80-90 a week. It is better in the warm months when I can ride the motorcycle. Even that is noticeable. I was paying about 5.50 to fill up, now almost 10. Car is not from a dealer, but rather part of an estate. I really need to see it for myself...
  3. Excellent to hear. I have better luck with the small shops, companies, and solo enthusiasts than I do with large companies
  4. Thanks. Fuel is a sore subject... a few unique problems to these Caddys is the lack of manufacturers of parts. For my Seville parts are nearly impossible to find, and have been for a long time now. They are not like Chevys, Fords, and Chryslers that you could get most parts for.
  5. I have always had a soft spot for specifically a 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood. I have possibly found one but could use some info from here. Car has 22k miles. NY owned but never winter driven. Always stored in a heated garage. Supposed to be near mint. ( I have not seen it for myself) Black and chrome, no landau (surprised) Asking price is too high for me personally at 10,500. But if the car was as nice as it is said to be I would like an idea of a fair price I should entertain. Honestly in all of my sights of this era and newer is that they do not retain a high value. I have seen nice ones that just sit waiting for a buyer that may never come. I am really looking for a DD so this would not be a great fit for longevity. If the price was right I would buy it as a DD and coat it annually. Can someone give me an idea of how far off I am from logical thinking...
  6. Ok. Pulling the top is a daunting task. Especially if you have to put it back on. Maybe you can just lift the front half ever so carefully. I have seen tops come back up after being disturbed. I wish there was more consideration taken in having to replace the windshield and back window. I can ask my local trusted glass company and see what they suggest. They used to do almost everything I can think of... Now, not sure.
  7. That is the only other one of that era I have seen with the Opera lighting on the back doors. Same as my 96 had. I'm sorry but that gen Deville does not look right without the Landau. I always think my 97 is missing something. Any luck on the install?
  8. Thats nuts. I always worried about my old Deville because if the back window ever broke, the top would have been no good. I would personally get multiple opinions here unless you have one that has surely done it with good end results. I would like to see what it looks like at the top of the windshield to get a better idea. Do you have Rainsense wipers?
  9. Good to hear. Nice and easy job. Hardest part is finding one I finally found the part # for the sensor. 25673037. If you happen to use Ebay I found one there. Seems to be the cheapest one that is available that I saw. Ebay listing 313432793754
  10. Good. The sensor is like a light bulb. The blue part unplugs from the black base. If you are familiar with 904 and 921 bulbs, it has the same base.
  11. Well today was bittersweet. I replaced the rear hub assemblies and parking brake cables. I routed the cables below the lateral arm. When jacked up they are tight, but at ride height they are ok. The bad news is that all of this is only temporary. The rear cradle failed at the left insulator bushings. When jacked up it drops, and when lowered it goes up into the body 😭. I may try to temporarily repair it, but it will only be a matter of time. I had replaced the bushings a few years back and had coated the areas with oil, that did not stop the rust though. Its too bad. I was really hoping to get to 200k. I am going to try to make it through the winter and hopefully have another DD by spring. I must say any of our vehicles that we drive in the winter have been just rotting away. I wash them, clean the undersides, coat whatever I can, and have even had them coated multiple times. Nothing stops the rust. At least I have a working parking brake again
  12. So I looked a little farther into it. Signal is output from the PZM and returns to the PZM. Then via canbus is communicated to the PCM and IPC. So it does not look like it works by ground like the old easier ones. So likely it is the sending unit. Gotta love aftermarket. I am going to pull codes, if any, inspect what I can at the PZM without pulling the back seat, and go from there. I pulled codes, all history. B1571H, B1552H, B2477H, B0533H. I also monitored the fuel level from the PZM. Tank should have about 17 gallons (by miles) Gauge on startup shows 17 gallons. As I let it run the level starts to range from 16.8-17.5 I then put it in Drive and it goes to 20.4-16.5. It goes like a roller coaster between those 2. I put it back in Park and it kind of levels off but still occasionally goes to 20.4
  13. Hi All. Someone with a 90s Deville, eldorado, or Seville up to 97 would be most helpful. I need to know if the parking brake cable to the left rear and right rear route under the rear lateral arm, or above it. I thought I needed the parking brake the other day...I parked on a hill and when I pushed the pedal it was like a rock. If you live in NY its no surprise. Of course the brake would not release. Grr. I did not set it hard, so I decided to drive it for a few days until I could check it out. I had to replace both calipers, pads, rotors, and both bearings are shot. (have to order them). I found that the cables are so rusted, but a bigger issue. It appears the cables to each wheel are getting pinched between the upper spring housing and the lateral arm (center arm on the back side) with the suspension travel. It ate through the cable sleeve, housing, and exposed the steel cable housing, also really rusty. So this means I need all the parking brake cables again. I want to make sure they are routed properly. I have a 97 Seville but I may have routed those wrong as well. Don't recall a pinching issue I will add I have watched a few videos that show the rear suspension. Some show the cable over that arm, some below. I will post a pic of mine. It is almost like the cable housings are too short and do not come out far enough... I am regretting selling my winter rat last year because ever since I did I feel my Deville is falling apart. Everything underneath is just rotting. Body is ok and interior is like new. Thank you to someone who may be able to confirm proper routing
  14. honestly no clue. It is the digital cluster that shows the fuel reading in numbers. I was thinking the same. I pulled the plug behind the tank that goes from the body to the fuel tank. Was like new. Fuel pump and sender appear to share the same ground input so I assume the ground should be fine. I really do not feel like pulling the tank to check there, but I have a feeling I am going to have to. the term critter does come to mind...
  15. Hi All. Car is my 97 Deville D'Elegance Picking brains before I contemplate dropping tank again. (not feeling that...) I replaced the fuel pump unit about 3 years ago because of the fuel gauge not reading right under half. New unit completely resolved the issue until this year. Currently Full tank reads full 18-12 gallons. At idle for any length of time F-E-F-E-F-E, while driving reads normal 11-ditto (empty...) never see it. At idle F-E-F-E-F-E, While driving it is all over high and low. If I accelerate hard it goes to E for a few seconds. Imagine driving daily like this. It makes me want to drive it off a cliff. Every time it says E it yells at you, range is like a roller coaster, someday E might mean I am stranded. I fill it every 250 miles (every 5 days or so). I was half tempted to just cut the wire for now. I cannot remember if these still worked by Full ground is Empty and no ground is Full. If it is not then I do not know. These were notoriously an issue amongst most every model GM made from the 90s-2ks. I really do not want to buy another fuel pump unit, the current one only has about 15k miles on it. And I did do the TSB for the pigtail when I did the pump. Thanks all
  16. Good to hear. Not the greatest fix but if the system is satisfied. Enjoy the ride
  17. Thanks for the pic, better than I could find. I am thinking they just routed them there to trick the system into thinking the strut is still present.
  18. Is there any chance you can see a part number on it? It does not look familiar to me... Wait. Does your caddy have RSS? Look at the right front strut. See if the sensor is there. The struts may have been replaced and they left the sensor plugged into the harness. I will try and post a pic. The sensor would be located on the strut down toward the base, on the side facing the engine. Plug comes out the side, wire goes up the strut and over toward the front. If you do a quick search for ARNOTT SK2167 there is a few good pictures that show the sensor. There should be one at each corner suspension. If you are getting a Service Ride Control Message let me know
  19. Ok. The grille just pops up out of the dash. If your dash is warped like most every one of these it already is popped up.
  20. Take a step back. Reread my first response. You likely have a failed sunload sensor. No domelamps and no dash lights usually means the system does not know it is dark, therefore not turning on the lights. Sometimes simply unplugging the sensor and cleaning it, then reinstalling it restores operation, but not always. I am trying to find the part # for reference. I believe it was the one with the green and black wire. (2 wire) If you want to check the fuse box behind the back seat, open the trunk. Just under the deck is 4 black nuts. Unscrew the nuts and the carpet trim drops and exposes the behind the seat. Fuses are at the driver side, about halfway down
  21. Are your domelights working properly? They are controlled by the sunload sensor as well. I am leaning toward the sunload sensor either failed or came unplugged. It is located in the center of the windshield defroster grille. I have the same car and mine did the same thing. The sensor is the one with the flat blue top iirc. The stupid thing is even if you turn on the headlight switch the dash lights will not come on. I leave early in the morning and many times there is just enough light to make the system think its daylight. I cannot get dash lights unless I cover the sensor with something
  22. Its a Cadillac... I have driven ones on their last leg that amazingly drive great. Even ones with pulled head bolts. Can drive around town beautiful, but once you open it up the devil shows
  23. That is my favorite year. I am sure someone will chime in, is probably power steering or trans related. A pressure switch of some kind
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