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bschelle

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Everything posted by bschelle

  1. Thanks for the heads up Kevin! I will post my findings.
  2. My 99 Deville blows cold out of the defroster instead of the floor vents. What could it be?
  3. Check the website I supplied the link for and here is another where they sell the copper/nickle tubing. http://www.fedhillusa.com/
  4. I have read where in Europe the use of a composition copper and steel brake line is the requirement. They are easy to form and are rust proof. I will try to find the article! Here is the link! http://64.90.169.191/applications/automoti...brake-tube.html
  5. My 91 Eldo was doing the same thing and I replaced the upper assembly and that fixed it!
  6. Thanks for the link. This picture shows A & B are on the top right. I could have sworn my manual showed them on the top left! I will check it when I get home tonight. If the link picture is correct then the connector I am looking at is the one because there are terminals in the top right side> Thanks a million for the heads up!
  7. I replaced the distributor last night. I let it warm up this morning and then took it for a 25 mile test ride and it didn't miss a beat. Time will tell if that is the final fix. I am having a problem with timing it. The manual says to jump pin A & B on the ALDL and that it is located on the drivers side by the parking brake pedal. I have a connector there but the first 3 slots on the top row of the connector are empty. Logan said the ALDL is behind a panel near the center of the dash but I don't see it. I timed it by aligning the ditributor 45 degrees off of the center line of the engine. It seems to run great but I don't want to have problems by not timing it with a light. P.S. Kev2, did you get a chance to check your ECM info?
  8. I checked my manual and it shows the ALDL on the left side by the brake pedal. I do have a connector there but as I said the holes are empty on the first 3 holes on the plug. Could you tell me where you think the plug is in more detail? Do I have to remove any panels to see it? I looked this morning but I didn't see anything.
  9. Right on as usual. It is 15mm. The distributor is in and I will take it for a test ride in the morning. All I have to do is set the timing. The manual says to jumper pins A & B at the ALDL. It looks like there are not any pins in that position on my car. I am looking at the connector by the parking brake pedal. I think the location of A & B are top row left hand side in position 1 & 2. Does that sound right to you guys? I will take another look in the morning.
  10. I m putting in a rebuilt (Cardone) distributor. Anybody know what size the nut is on the dist. hold-down? Metric/US thread? I am going to buy a dist. wrench and I don't trust the knowledge of the parts guys!
  11. The fuel filter is new as is the fuel pump and I put isopropyl in tne tank. I also replaced the FPR. This was a double post and the dicussion is extended on the other thread. Sorry for the douple topic posting!
  12. It was a NAPA Echlin cap, rotor, coil and module and I used the grease. No remote starter and when it dies nothing changes on the dash. All of the dash functions as if it is still running.
  13. Going down the road my 91 Eldo still dies. Just like I turned off the ignition! It hasn't done it all winter. I am begining to think it's temperature related. I have a fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield and the pressure is steady before it dies and does'nt drop when it dies or when I try to start it.I drive about 6-7 miles before it does it.No codes show up. I let it sit for a couple of minutes and it usually starts. Today it did it and it took a while to start. It would catch and die a few times. When it did start it ran like it was flooded only hitting on a few cylinders then clearing up. I didn't see any black smoke from the exhaust. Again no codes. I have replaced the injectors, FPR, ignition control module, coil, wires and a complete tune up. What could be causing it to do this? What part is affected by temperature changes? I poked arround the wires from the distributor but it didn't do anything.
  14. Going down the road my 91 Eldo still dies. Just like I turned off the ignition! It hasn't done it all winter. I am begining to think it's temperature related. I have a fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield and the pressure is steady before it dies and does'nt drop when it dies or when I try to start it.I drive about 6-7 miles before it does it.No codes show up. I let it sit for a couple of minutes and it usually starts. Today it did it and it took a while to start. It would catch and die a few times. When it did start it ran like it was flooded only hitting on a few cylinders then clearing up. I didn't see any black smoke from the exhaust. Again no codes. I have replaced the injectors, FPR, ignition control module, coil, wires and a complete tune up. What could be causing it to do this? What part is affected by temperature changes? I poked arround the wires from the distributor but it didn't do anything.
  15. They did Mike. If nothing else they got me to thinking that all of the tests were leading to the PZM, but I had already replaced it. I then started to trace the wiring diagram from the manual and it showed that the lights and cig. lighter got their power from the same place, the inadvertent power relay. It is amazing how much corrosion is on all of the terminals in that under hood fuse panel. Look there first on yours before you go any further. The corrosion was also the problem of my headlights not working. I had to replace 9 terminal ends that time. Let me know if I can be of any help with yours. I have a lot of terminal ends left from the Ebay panel. They are all cut close to the connector(junk yard surgery-rip & tear) and I had to splice in extensions on some of them to use them. Thanks again for your help and to the rest of this forum. It is the BEST! Bill.
  16. Sorry for the late update!! I replaced the catalytic converter and all is well. I should have tried the WOT ! I did that and I could tell the converter was plugged.
  17. After pulling my hair out to get the interior lights and cig.lighter to work I finally fixed it. It was the "inadvertent power relay" which is located in the front fuse panel (under the hood on the drivers side). The connections were all green with corrossion and one of the 18 gauge wires was broken. I had bought a complete fuse panel on Ebay when I was having troubles with my headlights an it had a relay and plug on it that looked new so I changed the plug and relay and all is good now.
  18. You guys were NEVER off or wrong. If I had done the WOT right away, I would have told you the correct symptoms and you guys would have the solutuion! Thanks Again, Bill.
  19. I did mention the new coil in Post #16. I just got back from a test run with the new cat I installed and all is good! It was the converter. The old one was all in peices on the inside. I had also thought my gas mileage was bad but I never payed any attention to it. I couldn't see the forest through the trees. A simple WOT diagnosed the problem. Thanks for all of the great impute you guys contributed!! I was a NAPA jobber for 28 years and I spent many a day with customers trying to fix their cars by telling them to have it diagnosed before they go throwing parts at it. I should have followed my own advice. Go figure!
  20. All of the parts I replaced before where for another problem but I have replaced the TPS,Cap,Rotor,Module & Coil trying to resolve this miss. I did replace the carbon button & wire when I did the coil. The plugs on the cap are good and tight. The way it performed at WOT has the symptoms of a plugged exhaust. It just groans and acts like it has an anchor on the bumper. I have a rattle when it idles and I bet it's the cat! This whole process has been enjoyable and I really like to do my own work on my car. Although I replaced some parts that are probably not needed i know that most of them are near lifes end with 127k on the clock!
  21. WOT is terrible! It will hardly get out of its own way. I never do WOT on my commute to work and back. But I did it this morning and it would not get up to 70 MPH and was laboring all of the time. I apologize to the forum for not doing this basic test. I am sure it will change the thought process on my problem. I am going to bang on the converter tonight and see if it rattles. I replaced the fuel filter when I put in the new fuel pump.
  22. I will let you know tomorrow. I will have to get on the freeway to try it out.
  23. I just sprayed the wires and there are not any sparks flying. The part that has me baffled is that it runs OK for the first five minutes of cold start driving and then just like somebody is pushing a button it starts to do its stuttering. Also wnen I decelerate it feels like it loses power for a second and bucks a couple of times. This whole thing can be repeated over and over again. I am thinking that if it is electrical why only after getting warmed up? I put the pressure gauge on the rail and took it for a ride and there was no change in pressure when it falters. I got 40-42# cruising and 36-38 coasting.
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