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Everything posted by bschelle

  1. When I use the washers with the blades in the rest position it blows the fuse and I have no wipers or washers. If I use the washers when the wiper are already moving I don't blow a fuse. Bad washer motor,wiper motor,switch or relay? Where do I start looking?
  2. I replaced my 91 Eldo injectors with a set of rebuilts and have not had any problems for 30,000 miles. Just to add info to your question of "New or Rebuilt"!
  3. I used two pairs of vise grips to get mine out. I clamped the first one to the housing and then clamped the second one to the first one at a 90 degree angle. I then tapped on the second one and the housing popped right out!
  4. On my 99 Deville I had tried pulling on the whole shaft and it seperated at the boot. I then took 2 pair of vise grips and attached one to the outer side of the part remaining in the trans and attached the second one to the first vise grip on a right angle and rapped on the second one and the axle popped right out without much force at all.
  5. I had the same problem with my 91 Eldo. Rebuilt distributor solved the problem!
  6. I just replaced my 99 Deville. It was dependant on the pulley diameter. I was able to measure it while it was still on the car!
  7. No jump starts! Thanks Ranger, but I went with the NAPA. I was a NAPA jobber for 28 years and I kind of have some insight on their products. I sold a ton of their Rayloc REMANUFACTURED alternators,starters etc. I only had a big problem once with their starters when they used too heavy a grease on the front bushing and it caused trouble in the winter. Other than that they are a great reman. supplier. It took me about 3 hours to R&R. $130 exchange. Not too hard of a job but I know I couldn't make book! Now I hear a noise coming from the belt tensioner. Next on my list!
  8. I don't have a rebuilder around here. I am going to get one from NAPA. Thanks for the reply!
  9. The red battery light is on and it is not charging. Is it the alternator or something else. Battery terminals are clean and the belt is fine. What do you think? Also, any shortcuts to changing the alternator. After 155,000 it probably is the alternator!
  10. The lock on my drivers door will not open all of the locks and when I unlock the door and start the car the alarm sounds. What's the problem?
  11. Mythbusters tried to shatter two hammers with more force than any of us could apply and were not able to do it. Just the same, the glasses are still better worn than not!
  12. I just got a hub on Ebay for $65.00 delivered!
  13. I would be careful using a compression fitting on a brake line. There are tons of pressure and the comp. ftg. isn't built to handle it. The only comp. ftg. for a brake line are made of high tensile steel and come in unions only (That I know of). Just my 2 cents!
  14. I have 146,000 on my 99 Deville and have driven the last 39,000 with the P0741 code present. Just my two cents!
  15. I went to change the bearing last night and I had the dreaded green grease all over. So I changed the bearing and the half-shaft. The noise is gone! The bearing came apart leaving the metal cap from the back of the bearing in the spindle but the bearing felt OK so I do not know if it was the shaft or the bearing making the noise. Now I hear a faint noise from the passenger side!!!!! I am going to ride this one out until I get a more solid symptom of what it is causing the noise. I would have waited to change the drivers side but I am leaving on a trip and didnh't want to take a chance of breaking down on the road.
  16. It was dry rotted and the fluid was gone but still in one piece. I didn't have a thump at take off, it was a repeating rapping like sound. I think it was the exhaust banging on the two small supports bars that are right under the exhaust after the converter and just after the resonator.
  17. On my 99 Deville I hear a noise coming from the drivers side front wheel. It sounds like something is rubbing against the tire and increases and decrease with the speed of the car. It is a low groan type of noise. I am going to try doing figure eights and see if the load on the bearing makes a difference. I do not know if this will help because it is hard to hear it at a slow speed. When driving it doesn't seem to change going into our out of turns. Would a CV joint make this type of noise?
  18. It's fixed!! My brother suggested I adjust the top engine struts and that might help. It didn't. I finally replaced the front engine mount and the noise and vibration are gone. When I tried adjusting the struts it stressed the exhaust and the pipe broke just behind the converter. It was a rusty joint to begin with and I am sure it was about to go sooner or later. I tried removing the mount from the bottom but I couldn't get it out. I then removed the right cooling fan and loosened the left one and I got it out from the top. As for the pipe I used an adapter to connect the two pieces back together. Hopefully I won't have to do this for another 140,000 miles. Now I have a constant noise from what I think is the drivers side front wheel. It changes pitch as the speed increases. I am starting a new thread with that problem.
  19. The best way I can describe it is it reminds of my 67 Nova when it would bottom out and the drive shaft would rub on the body but not as severe. If I take off real slow it doesn't do it. I can't make it do it over about 20 mph. The P0741 has been on for about 45,000 miles.
  20. Unlikely. The 4T80E doesn't seem to have many internal problems. The only things I have seen posted here are the TCC, solenoids, and electrical problems like the speed sensor, and most of those are resolved by servicing electrical parts and speed sensors. One guy with 220,000 miles on his car recently asked about remanufactured transmissions, but he didn't say why. Have you had the transmission serviced (not flushed) every 30,000 miles or so? My money is on plug wires, with plugs a close second. After that, I think the coils might be worth checking for resistance and output. It conceivably could be crank or cam sensors. Do you have any OBD II codes to report? It's not throwing any codes other then P0741. I changed the plugs without any effect, but when I changed the dog bone mounts I am able to accelerate heavier but it still makes the noise. It doesn't feel or sound like a engine miss to me, but I am not an expierienced mechanic either.
  21. New plugs made no difference. Replaced the engine struts (dog bones) and it helped a little. Next is a front motor mount. Ever replace one? What are the shortcuts? FSM says to remove fans and lift up the engine to do it.
  22. This isn't a miss. I can feel the vibration. I have about 40,000 on this set of plugs.
  23. My 99 Deville shudders when I take off. It doesn't do it if I feather the gas but if I give it a litle more pedal it shudders. It only does it for a few seconds and then it clears up. FSM says it is probably the inner tri-pot joints. I haven't got under it to look yet but was wondering if it is a tough job. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
  24. I didn't see any problem with the line going down the frame by the battery. I disconnected the vacuum line check valve by the firewall and I could hear the air rushing into the accumulator so I think it is getting enough vaccum. The air going from the dash vent to the defroster vent is intermittent. But it does go to the defroster more than the floor vent. Should I just assume it is the AC Programmer or is there a way to test it? Do I have to remove the dash to replace the programmer or am I not reading the FSM correctly? How about routing a direct vaccum line to the vent motor and bypassing the programmer? My parking brake is releasing as it should.
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