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Everything posted by bschelle

  1. It is your exhaust system which is attached to the engine rattles when it touches the frame. Sure, you may want to replace the motor mounts, but another cheaper solution is putting the car on a hoist and asking someone to gently powerbrake it while you are watching and listening. That's how I noticed what was causing rattling in a second. I could not identify the source in two years! What is the other cheaper solution? Are you saying it may not be the mount? On your car, what did you do to fix it? I am not trying to be argumentative, just trying to get some expert advice. You guys know way more than me about these great old Caddies.
  2. So if you agree it is the mount, what will putting it on a hoist solve? No offense but I can see the motor move when I barke torque it. Did you replace your mount yourself or did you have it done by a pro?
  3. It's not the cat. I took that off years ago. I should change the way it rattles to it sounds like a pipe ratteling against the frame. It does it when I apply different amounts of torque and throttle. I am guessing it is some part of the engine contacting the frame. If I let up on it when it starts to make the noise it stops. When I am cruising it does not make any noise.
  4. I am going to change the right front motor mount on my 91 Eldorado. I can see the motor lift up when I brake torque it and it is making a noise like a can of marbles at different RPM's. Now I need all of you guys to give me some do's & dont's to get me started. The FSM is rather vague and I know some of you guys have had to do this job before. So let me have it!
  5. My 99 Deville door ajar alert keeps chiming. None of the doors are open. The outside temp here is near zero. Would the temp have anything to do with it or do I have a bad relay? I just found this info. Anybody else have any suggestions? "GM put the switches inside the door as part of the latch assembly instead of the easy place to check by the hinges. It will require removeing door panels one at a time to disconnect the switch to determine which one is bad. I would start with the LF and then RF because those are used the most." Bill
  6. Thanks Kevin! Yeh, thanks! It will be a spring time project.
  7. Good job. You could also use the serpentine belt instead of the rubber strap wrench if you increased the tension on the belt on the tensioner. Due to all of the mess from the leak, I tried it with just the tensioner but it wouldn't hold and kept slipping. The AC holds a charge for a few hours and that is all.
  8. The system was already down. I think my compressor has a leak. We have to get that running in the spring! I know! I tried to find the leak using compressed air but no bubbling fittings anywhere so I am guessing it is the compressor!
  9. The system was already down. I think my compressor has a leak.
  10. I dropped in 3 tabs of Gm radiator sealer and it hasn't lost any coolant in 2 days, so I might have bought a little time until I have to replace the radiator. I never travel more than 6 miles each way to work so I can take a chance for now.
  11. It took me about 3 hours. I removed the rear idler pulley to get better access to the back bolts. I used a Craftsman rubber strap wrench to grab the pump pulley to loosen and tighten the 3 bolts and I removed the accumulator also. The pump was replaced by a garage about 3 years ago and the 2 rear 15mm bolts were finger tight. I pressure tested before doing the job and the pump was leaking out of the bottom and I guess it was coming from the weep hole. New pump is on and no leaks......except now I think the radiator is leaking!!! I will pressure test it again as soon as the sub-zero weather is over.
  12. I have to change my water pump and searched the forum but I am still looking for any advice on what I should be aware of. Do's and dont's would be a big help.
  13. On my 91 Eldo there is a big leak at the tube from the water pump where it goes to ? just below the harmonic balancer pulley. It has a small hose with two clamps and it is pouring water out just in front of this hose. I can't find a description in my service manual but I did find a picture under the belt removal topic. They do not show a name for this part. I am guessing that the tube has rotted and I want to know what to ask for at the dealer. Any suggestions as to its name or how to fix it?
  14. I can't open the passenger side rear door on my 99 Deville. The locks all function and the lock button moves on the door but it will not open. I tried trying to force it but no luck. What's up?
  15. I read about Techron on another forum. It is cheaper than the GM stuff and seems to do just fine!
  16. After 1 can of Techron to a full tank of gas the gauge is now working properly. I have had this problem for 4 years> one bottle of stuuf and all is well. Hope this will help other owners. It is worth trying! Better than dropping the tank!!!!
  17. I read where Techron is the same stuff. I got a couple bottles at Walmart and I just put the first one in my 99 Deville with the gauge problem for about 3 years now. I will let you know how I do!
  18. I found this and was wondering if anybody else has tried it! "GM has just issued a TSB on this problem that applies to ALL GM vehicles and blames the high incidence of sending unit failures on high levels of sulfur in gasoline. The sulfur corrodes the sliding resistor mechanism and produces erratic and inaccurate gauge readings. To address this problem, GM has released a FUEL TANK ADDITIVE. According to GM TSB #06-00-89-07BB, you should purchase a bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment Plus (part #88861011 for GM brand, 88861013 for AC Delco brand, and 88861012 in Canada) and add it to your tank at every oil change. The additive cleans the sulfur corrosion from the sending unit and prevents new corrosion by laying down a protective film. The additive also removes engine deposits."
  19. I finished it yesterday afternoon, I was able to pull the alt, without pulling all of the brackets. I removed the splash guard and radiator access panel and then unhooked the right electric fan and slid it up and over to give me more room. I then removed the top mounting bolt from above and the four mounting bolts from the bottom. I also disconnected the neg. side of the battery and the two connectors on the alternator. I was then able to turn and slide the alt. out. I had to press the pulley off of the alt. and then mounted the new pulley and slid it back in and hooked it all back up. It is now in perfect alignment. But now I am throwing a P1645 code. I clear the codes and it comes back instantly. What do you think about that?
  20. It is the pulley. I will change it today. The parts guy pulled the ones they had in stock and they both had the shallow pullies.
  21. The alternator was the only thing I have replaced and I only replaced the belt once since I owned the car. I bought it used. I now have removed the outside edge on both sides of the belt and it is running in th center of the pulleys with only 4 grooves. At least it isn't eating the belt and hopefully it will work until I get this figured out. I looked for a OEM alternator but all of the online dealers only have remanufactured ones. None of them mention the different diameter pulleys so I am worried that they do not come with a pulley. If my pulley is the wrong size it is going to be hard to find one. Monday I am going to call the boneyard and see if they have one off of a wreck to measure the pulley width.
  22. It is a NAPA and I installed it in October of 2007. I called the parts store and they said the only difference in the one for my car was the diameter of the pully. I asked them to look at both of them and see if there was a difference in the distance from the outside edge of the pulley back to the cooling fins and they said they were both the same. As the belt leaves the alternator it goes to the Idler pulley and then to the A/C compressor. The belt is runnig a belt notch off of the idler and I can see the belts outside edge turning over when it gets to the A/C compressor. It finally tears the belt apart at the outside edge. It looks like I am going to have to pull the alternator and see whats up with it!
  23. On my 99 Deville I have been eating the serpitine belt! I replaced the alternator about 25,000 miles ago. The belt just started squeaking and I figured it was the Tensioner pulley and replaced that. No good still squeaking. Next I replaced the Idler pulley and no good. I put a NAPA belt on and it ate the outside edge of the belt. The belt looks to be riding too far out towards the fender on the Idler pulley. I put the NAPA belt back on with the ouside edge missing and it ran OK for a couple of weeks and then my wife said it was still squeaking and it was. In desperation I shot some belt dressing on it and it threw the belt. I put the old belt on and it started to curl the outside edge so I shut it down before it ate it! I don't see it being misaligned on any of the other pulleys just the Idler. I thought maybe the alternator was loose but I can't move it at all! Where do I go from here? The idler pulley was the last piece I replaced. Is there a spacer behind the pulley that I forgot? Is the alternator the wrong one? HELP!!!!
  24. It was CORROSION!!! I pulled the cover off of the Engine Compartment Relay Center on the drivers side and then I pulled all of the relays in the Underhood Relay Center. This is the group of 5 relays located just below the Inadvertant Power Relay. I had to really work hard to get a couple of them out. They were very corroded. These were the same relays I had to rewire and replace when I was having trouble with my headlights not working. So they corroded up within a couple of years. This time I lubed them with dielectric grease and maybe that will end the corrosion problem. According to the FSM the wipers, PZM, headlights and other accessories get their power through this relay center. The corrosion was probably creating a mini circuit suppling power and a false signal causing my problem. All is well tonight and a couple of days will tell me if it is in fact fixed! Thanks for ALL of the help.
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