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fatboi07

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Everything posted by fatboi07

  1. My 95 cadillac is having a no start issue. I also performed the resistor trick to no avail as I too was having the remove key wait 3 minutes message. How can I truly confirm the vats resistor pickups in the ignition cylinder are bad, vs. the wiring is bad, vs. the TDM is bad, vs. the starter itself is bad?
  2. I dont even know if the fsm would have it. Alldata said it didnt at the time of that alldata page but then again alldata isnt all inclusive.
  3. Because the "other" end is that "cut" end in the top middle or the picture lying on the intake plenum.
  4. There isnt one. Thats a thermal expansion valve (txv) vehicle.
  5. I pulled these up on alldata today and if im reading these right theres a link from the ipc to the ebtcm via a built in connection in the dlc cover. Am i reading these right? If i am the cover connector would jump voltage from pin M to pin L of the dlc.
  6. 95 eldorado. 126000 miles. Having electical issues. No abs/tcs data with no trouble codes. Ive replaced the ebtcm and have voltage and amps are flowing fine, C205 G pin to pin 29 of the ebtcm connector has continuity. Please look at my previous posts at this link and let me know if you have any ideas. Thanks. My link
  7. Yeah i cleared the codes before i ever pulled the valve body, after everything i took it around the block and to town once and still pulled up the p56 and p76. I got the kit from the gm/cadillac dealer here in town and the 2 solenoids did have the same number printed on the side, and Ive had people tell me on here and another cadillac forum that they are the same so Im not sure whos right lol. But i did use the full kit. I cleaned everything out real well to make sure no junk/gunk clogged the checkball locations and passages, and i reinstalled each in their orignal location. If it helps i noticed the other day on the back of my car that said "courtesy" so im assuming its a dealer rental deal so no telling how hard it was reemed. But i did buy it from a private seller.
  8. Ok so half bump half question. A friend of mine told me today that the low and reverse bands are the same and hardware wise if I have reverse 1st and Im assuming 2nd should be mechanically sound? I dont know if there's any truth to this but $2700 (Extra $700 thrown in to add a lsd) quoted by a local shop for uninstall, rebuild, and reinstall kinda hurts. Whats even worse is im a student here at the local technical college for automotive technology, so i shoud be able to do this myself, however, I havnt had automatic transmissions yet, and I dont have alot of tools to work with. (Class dosnt resume till mid august, and Ill need a car by then as its my one and only dd) Any help would be greatly appeciated if anyone has any input on this. If you respond please read previous posts if not caught up on the situation as I have pulled codes and posted said results previously. Thanks again for reading and god bless cadillacs
  9. Ive determined I need a new trans in my 95 eldorado. Anyone have any insight to any reputable online shops or such that sells warrantied fresh transmissions? Thanks and any input would be helpful.
  10. What is the 95 eldorado bolt pattern and what other vehicles share this pattern? Thanks.
  11. yep correct level, filters were installed snugly.
  12. Well seeing as I had to drop the trans pan yeah I changed the fluid lol. Even went as far as to pull the "hidden" drain plus under the valve body to get a few extra quarts out. Fresh scavanger screens from advaced. New fluid when I filled back up.
  13. Yep I used the full kit including the braket. I am without a doubt 110% sure i reconnected all 3 connectors. I recieved the vehicle in limp mode (2nd gear only) and upon research concluded I had the age old broken solenoid problem (which I used the gm kit including bracket to repair). Everything was put back together and still no 1st and 2nd (feels as if in neutral in 1st and 2nd) so I used pcm override ps11 to "manually" shift into 3rd from a dead stop. I know its not good for it but if im stuck replacing the trans may as well drive it a tad. And i do mean a tad. I went to walmart and back which was like 10 miles and back.
  14. sweet thanks for the pic. I replaced my solenoids with the kit from gm and reassembled with evrything including checkballs in the right places and still no luck. I have 3rd and 4th now but thats it. Seems as when in 1st and 2nd it in neutral. I think my clutches indeed may be shot.
  15. Well quicky update. Apparently you can just pull all the bolts you see on the lower side of the valve body as the ones on the top are what actually hold the 2 (upper and lower) sections together. So i pulled my valve body took it apart (a shift solenoid was indeed broken) noted location of checkballs, cleaned it out with brake-clean real well and let it air dry, then replaced my a and b solenoids, the mini filter in between and re-assembled with the longer screw and bracket. I reinstalled everything along with new scavanger screens and still no luck. I tried the p11 pcm override test and I do have 3rd and 4th now, but 1st and 2nd still wont engage. They just slip as if the car is in neutral. I pulled my dtcs and Im getting a p56 current, p76 history, p86 history, a p132 current, and a s71 history. I did read on alldata something about positioning the low/reverse band with .002-.003in shim? I however did not do this as in my reading on both this and another caddy forum I did not see anything about anyone positioning this band. I did however wiggle my bands just a tad while the valve body was out just to see what they felt like and they were loose. (not sure if they are/are not supposed to be loose, but figured Id put that in there just incase it means anything. I think I may indeed need a new or rebuild on my trans. Thanks for reading and any insight would be much appreciated.
  16. Yeah ive seen those same walkthroughs before and I understand the disassembly of the vavle body and all, but im stuck at step one. Out of all the bolts on the bottom of the vavle body do I just take all of them out? I need a pic of the bottom of the valve body showing which to take out so i take the valve body out, instead of taking it out and dis-assembling it at the same time accidently.
  17. Sorry about that. I searched for your thread but couldnt find it anywhere. Please post a link whne you get the chanced.
  18. I just pulled the trans pan on my 95 eldorado and Im trying to figure out which bolts im supposed to remove to pull the lower control body. I alldataed it but pic I found has significantly less bolts than what im looking at now. Yes the pic is for the 4t80e but i just dont know im confused any help would be appreciated thanks.
  19. Hell yeah i figured as much. Apparently the a and b are the same thing, at least thats what aamco told me. Even *smurf* caddy dealer down here couldnt give me a stright answer. Where do these companies get these people? I as a ase certified auto technician that cant find any automotive work at all around here am completely disgusted at the sheer stupidity of some of the people these companies hire. I couldnt even carry on a technical conversation with the guy at the caddy dealer. I was like seriously? Dude sounded like he was half drunk and I couldnt even understand what he was saying. *smurf* *smurf*. Well at least i might get my car going. Guess Ill see tomorrow when my solenoids arrive. Ps. thanks for the info charlie. Ive already ordered the 2 shift solenoids from oreillys and from like I said from what I was told and from I can deduct from the ramblings of parts dealers around here theyre the same thing. At least I hope so. If not Ill be pissed lol. Oh and definatley please do get me that link thanks again.
  20. I think my 95 eldorado has a bad b shift solenoid cause its stuck in 2nd and if it was bad I need to know where it would throw a dtc or not. Also there is a shift solenoid a and b right? I called the oreillys here in town and they said there was only one, a "1-2-3-4" solenoid. Trans ia a 4T80E vin code Y. Thanks. ps. on a quick update. I called oreillys trans tech line and the guy said they had one part number for the shift solenoids so hes figuring the a and b shift solenoids are the same thing. Any truth to this?
  21. No i have yet to drop the pan and no vss code. Ive never had any problems with the speedometer. The only speed related code Ive ever had was the trans input speed sensor but since ive cleared the codes it hasnt came back but I have only drove around the block (about half a mile). Would it take more driving maybe to get the pcm to recognize the problem? Isnt there a way to use the on board system to test the a/b solenoids?
  22. Yeah I didnt see a eldorado sub forum so i figured id just post here. So heres the codes I pulled PO52 History-PCM Memory Reset PO56 History- Transmission Input Speed Sensor PO86 Current- Undefined Gear Ratio (Transmission Pressure Control) PO109 History- Keep Alive Memory Reset PCM has lost primary battery power P132 Current-Knock Sensor Circutry Failure IO52 History- Keep Alive Memory Failure A048 History- Low Refridgerant Pressure SO36 History- Electronic Level Control Compressor Short to Ground/Open SO60 History- Left Front Suspension Position Sensor Fault SO61 History- Right Front Suspension Position Sensor Fault SO71 History- Right Front Accelerator Fault I noticed some were history so to void any false positives or confusion I cleared codes and rode down the block and back to activate any current codes and now im getting P132 Knock Sensor Circuitry Failure, and a S071 Right Front Accelerometer Fault. My symptoms are the 95 eldorado is stuck in second. Ive tried manual style shifting, and I cant get anything but Park, Reverse, Neutral, and 2nd. When i go from 2nd to 3rd or drive it just goes into what seems neutral then when i give it gas the rpms go back to where the 2nd gear disengaged and continues to pull from there. I feel as its a B shift solenoid but the problem with that hypothisis is the fact that Im not getting a dtc for it. So now im left with a knock sensor circuitry failure, and a front right accelerometer with no clue where to go from here. I could throw parts at it but as you cnat take solenoids back and Im semi broke Id rather not. Would a OBD1 scanner pull anything more in depth than the on board scanner? I welcome any info on the subject. thanks caddyfam.
  23. hey new member. I have a 95 eldorado with a trans problem. Wheres the correct place to post about this? Thank you.
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