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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/17/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Service Manager at the dealership forwarded me this email today: He says the warranty on the repairs has now been bumped up from the regular 12 months to 24 months (36,000 miles). I should get a packet in the mail soon. GM rep called me back and apologized, she didn't realize that the extended warranty trumped he offer of OnStar (apparently they are not allowed to do both), so her request for free OnStar was declined. Oh well, I'd rather have the warranty and call the tow truck myself anyway. I guess when it all boils down, they really did try to make it right. Car is still running perfect.
  2. 2 points
    I was going to ask if this was a direct injected engine the other day. Watch this video.
  3. 2 points
    Please keep us posted. I am skeptical of the top end cleaner as you did not have the issue before the repair. If you were burning oil excessively It is highly suggested, although I have not found great success in it, even after being done twice. I feel for you as I pay pretty good on a rare occasion to have someone do a job for me, Expectations are high but end result may vary. I wish you the very best
  4. 2 points

    Leaking grease from CV boots?

    Well, I had some time on Sat. so I dug into this problem. Napa had some replacement clamps for $2.30 ea. and I bought a packet of CV grease ($4) and put Betty White up on the ramps! The hardest part of this whole thing was getting the old clamps off without damaging the boots! The just were tough to unhook from the tabs on the strips, even after twisting the crimped area loose. These clamps had definitely loosened over time though, I could actually spin them with my hand quite easily! I pulled back the boot far enough to poke the corner of the grease pouch into the joint and squeezed aprox. half the bag in each one. I you do this, make sure you wipe the boot area nice and clean with a rag with brake clean to have a nice, dry surface for the clamp to grip on. One other tip, put a jack under the control arm and lift till the axle is fairly level. (but still have safe, sufficient weight on the jack stands) You don't want to try and put the new clamp on with the axle hanging down at an angle, stretching the boot... Getting the new clamp on was a breeze and I used this small nipper plier to snug the clamp up, following with a bigger nippers to really tighten them down. All seems to be holding fine!
  5. 1 point

    Battery Replacement

    Only thing I would worry about is the monitors, but if you are not due for a state inspection I would not worry about retaining anything. Welcome To CaddyInfo Forum
  6. 1 point
    The Cadillac Grill Iron is crafted with the same artful consideration and precision as our vehicles. The stainless-steel finish is designed to be heated over open flames. The sleek, black-lacquered wooden handle offers excellent comfort for any grillmaster. All in a stylish, go-anywhere tote. It’s the Cadillac of branding irons that provides the finishing touch on the Cadillac of steaks, the Cadillac of buns, the Cadillac of cutting boards, the Cadillac of your dreams. Link to Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6CZZZG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07F6CZZZG&linkCode=as2&tag=motorsport0e-20&linkId=feb28695a5648f19e7360dac90a055a2
  7. 1 point
    ;) no that's my shipper, in miami, there's gonna be other stuff there as well and than shipped as one, it's going to cost me about 400,- to get here, the 1500,- was just for sending it to miami, it's supposed to be about a 10th of that..
  8. 1 point

    Low gas mileage. Why?

    I have connected a transparent PVC tube to the FPR and sucked the air providing around the same 20"Hg vacuum. There was vapor and there was no gasoline in the tube whatsoever. I think nothing is wrong with FPR. No symptoms of a bad FPR either.
  9. 1 point
    You need a good scanner to isolate what cylinder is misfiring. More that likely its a coil pack but pull the boots and plugs to check .
  10. 1 point

    Cadillac Deville crank but no start

    Service manual shows 55-62 on the 04 Chevy 5.3L. My guess is the gauge is 'good'.....but you never know.
  11. 1 point
    I think (just my two cents) is that the pump is bad. I have seen on other sites that you should really use an A/C Delco (or other OEM); maybe the pump replaced was an off brand. (Just a WAG; wild arse guess). I surely will yield to the more tech-savvy responses.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Yeah, and this is why I do 90% of my own repairs. But when I started researching the original issue, I decided it was outside of my comfort level and felt like I'd be throwing parts at it. But now I feel like they may have thrown parts at it. No doubt the cats where probably clogged, but were the injectors the actual cause? I've had overall good luck with this dealer in the past. Hope that continues...
  14. 1 point

    Cadillac Deville crank but no start

    You need a HEI tester.....it should produce a distinctive visible spark and snapping spark sound. Think they are about $10. Aftermarket alarm or remote start systems on Cadilllacs.....seem to work for a year or 2 and then stuff like this happens...If it has one it needs to come out.
  15. 1 point

    Cadillac Deville crank but no start

    When you said "4 in a strip".....I thought you were talking about the 2000-2003 coil cassette(s).
  16. 1 point
    Sorry guys! Next time I'll try and keep them shorter. I'll try starter fluid in throttle body. I cleaned throttle plate when I had it off. I also checked for hole in plenum but there was so much soot, black greasy stuff, I really couldn't see one. I'm thinking spark as well and trying to borrow and if need to buy a fuel pressure have. Thanks for advice.
  17. 1 point

    Temperature of water in engine

    Thank you guess it is doing alright. Never had a north star before it don't have but 130000 original miles should get a few more out of it. Thanks again
  18. 1 point

    Deville leak

    Logan your correct. The power steering lines do run along the front of the subframe. I would maybe check the lower trans cooler line fitting with the snap ring connect. The oring in the push fit connector deteriorates overtime and will leak trans fluid.
  19. 1 point

    Leaking grease from CV boots?

    On the original shafts.....the boots are a almost plastic like material. Aftermarket ones use a rubbery style replacement boot. The rubbery ones seem to fail pretty quick....maybe in a year or two. Aftermarket axles can have a huge difference in weight depending on the CV bearing design being used.....up to 15 lbs per axle....enough to actually feel the difference while driving. Hence my recommendation that you are likely better off with a good used axle vs. a aftermarket one.
  20. 1 point
    While troubleshooting my '04 Bravada that had my headlights turning off (randomly), then back on, I found that there is a headlight relay that can fail like mine and intermittently turn on and off. Now, getting back to your problem; in that same resolution it also mentioned that that same relay could get stuck "ON" and lead to the problem you describe. In your case, they mentioned that you could probably see the relay physically distorted (due to some melting though not always the case).
  21. 1 point
    should be just fine. I would get a donor pigtail and solder it in with heat shrink tubing too cover the solder joint Keep us posted
  22. 1 point
    @rockfangd in the initial post, of the schematic the OP provided, it shows the dark blue wire goes from the coil side of the relay and is the brake booster sensor signal wire. Initially, I thought there was a normal vacuum booster and the pressure system was a back up system. Now, I'm not sure. I do know it is not a hydro-boost system operating from the P/steering pump pressure. The schematic also indicates a vacuum sensor signal as well, but as @Logan indicated it may be a mis-print, if in fact it does not have a vacuum brake booster. BTW @rhdsts airplane crashes come in 3"s
  23. 1 point
    I responded above and then read the "Rest of the Story".... Anyway, I am old school. I love using DVOM's for testing components etc. but plain old wiring I like to use the above method or in very long circuits I will use a circuit breaker rated the same as the fuse and a short finder. Short finders are great for checking along door sills and any longer wire runs. If you don't have one, I highly recommend a terminal test kit. They make life a lot easier. They're especially nice for doing connector and component drag tests.
  24. 1 point
    Love the body mods, I have a 68 Camaro front spoiler on my 93. it flows well with the rear glass spoiler. I also dont need my indicators anymore as I have those white led day time running lights that blink yellow when its time to indicate. Matches the hids way better the rear roof spoiler is from a deville lol
  25. 1 point
    This is an awesome post, I have a 93 Eldorado 4.9 and have had the DTS 17 x 7.5 wheels and the Polished aluminum sts 17 inch wheels. Learned alot about fitment from this post. Interesting thing was the DTS tires which were 235/55/17 with a height of 27.2 inches actually cleared and looked pretty good. Im trying to stay away from 114.3 wheels like the mustangs because of all the hoopla about that .7 on an inch difference breaking the lugs. The wheels and tires do look great on yours. Here is my car with both the wheels: