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  1. Hi! I just wanted to re-introduce myself since it was a long time ago. I'm a male, 46 years old, with wife and a daughter, nine years old. I don't really consider myself to be one of the lucky guys in the world but I'm not a very social kind of person and that goes hand in hand. I have been unemployed the latest two recessions for a couple of years (in Sweden it is the last guy employed who is the first guy who gets sacked when a company needs to shrink their employee force) and have moved around quite a bit (in Sweden) just to keep myself occupied. You know the kind, the guy with few personal connections who has to take the job no one else in their right minds will take. Some organization theorists believe that there are three kinds of people, the guy who just tags along, the guy who likes to be in charge and me, the guy who likes to be the specialist. I'm working as a mechanical engineer (currently on a company producing labels and my department is manufacturing labeling machines with me as the head engineer). I develop all new equipment even if the whole department take credit from my achievements, especially if they weren’t involved in the process at all, like sales people, my boss etc. My wife is a nurse specialized in cancer treatment (half boss too). Anyway we had to commute so the time to do fun things like working on cars, write on forums etc. was limited. We live in a small town because we really don't want to live in a violent and criminal town like Malmoe (where I am working). The Covid-19 outbreak forced me to work from home which by the way suits me just fine since I can't stand half of the people on my department (not to mention being in Malmoe) I've been working as a mechanical engineer in almost 25 years and have NEVER been surrounded by so many freeloaders. I swear that if the management kicked half of the employees we couldn't tell the difference! As an example we had an inventory of the stock the other day, on guy was "sick", a girl aged about 25 complained about that she was not supposed to be there because it wasn't her job, and also complained about her nails being damaged from counting O-rings and washers. I told her to shut up and count how many spring turns there are on the spring and work instead of complaining. 😉 I've been on the Caddy info forum since 2002 and have owned an Eldorado (1988 year model with about 150k miles on in when sold, 50 k miles from my driving) a 1993 STS (with about 150 k on it when sold, 50 k miles from my driving) a 2002 STS (about 210 k miles on in when sold, 190 k from my driving) and am the happy owner of a 2012 CTS-V. The V currently has about 100 k on the odometer (70 k miles from me). Our family (daughter, wife and me) also like Jeeps. We have owned a 1990 Cherokee, a 2004 Wrangler and the latest one was bought last year. A 1999 Grand Cherokee. Of course people think that we are insane when we buy a 20 year old car with almost 200k on the odometer but I saw it as a recreational project. I always try to do as much as possible by myself when I work on our cars. No need to pay someone to damage or mistreat the car, I can do a better work for free. I only have access to a very small garage. Just enough space to change oil, brake pads and other small stuff. On the Jeep I've replaced all cooler lines and hoses, alternator, AC-compressor, radiators, brake pads and discs, brake booster, rear exhaust system, fan coupling, some sensors and electrical motors too. Payed the local shop to do the brake lines and rusted out door sills and some other small stuff. Now we have a 4wd in “daily drive condition” and a car that we use in terrain and all year around costing $0 in financing. Just got to fix the leaking valve gaskets and some minor stuff. We used it on a 3000 mile drive this vacation without the slightest problem. Now I thought it was the time to buy an older car. I bought a 1949 Chevrolet Fleetline in "daily driver" condition and I am planning to keep it in OEM condition. Unfortunately it is hard to get access to garages in Sweden and I'm searching for a garage to store it and work on it. I have the car stored by the seller at the moment and can go there to do minor work on the car but it is always better to have the car in the near vicinity than 30 miles away. I think it is in need of only smaller work. Adjusting valves, ignition and carburetor, get the clock and speedometer to work and other small stuff like that. Great car, but it is not a Cadillac. I figured that I already have a performance driver so it will be fun driving a Chevrolet anyway The car has an inline overhead valve six with about 90 bhp, three on a tree (first gear unsynchronized), no oil filter (option in the day) and an AM-radio, 6 Volt electrical system and vacuum wipers, no servo steering or servo brakes but it is solid running, no mechanical noises and reasonable rust free. I just love it
    3 points
  2. Hi Bruce and others I notice your in Plano, Tx I just moved from Oregon to Greenville, Tx which is just east of you I used to work for GM at the Tech center in Warren, Mi back in mid 1980s to early 1990s Frankly you need to find a better dealer or shop as their diagnostics game plan is lacking So just doing some thinking 1. PCM uses a 5 volt ref to several engin sensors such as CAM, Crank, TPS, APP, MAF, AIR, etc. So if the fuse for 5 volt (of PCM) or the PCM itself was faulty there would be a lot more problems and DTCs tripped so to me that leaves it is not a PCM issue 2. You did not mention if the engine goes into limp mode, if it does I would go right to diag APP (gas pedal and TPS) as 2 of your DTCs are drive by wire issues. Depending on model year APP consists of 2 or 3 pots, the TAC (DBW controller) is doing multi checks to assure APP is not faulty and would cause a run away vehicle and cause a crash. Simply with a good OBD-II scanner (as I show below ) even with just key on, engine off APP and TPS can be seen if APP and TPS agree or not. 3. Also, can use the scanner to see if 5 volt ref is functional 4. Should be checking for TSBs for that vehicle as many times the problems are weak crimps of wiring pins or the wiring loom has no slack such as to APP and causes stress to wiring pins connections As example : SUBJECT:Service Update for Inventory and Customer Vehicles Main Engine Harness Wire Chafe Expires with Base Warranty MODELS:2016 Cadillac ATS-V This service update includes vehicles in dealer inventory and customer vehicles that return to the dealership for any reason. This bulletin will expire at the end of the involved vehicle's New Vehicle Limited Warranty period. PURPOSE This bulletin provides a service procedure to inspect and, if necessary, reposition the main engine-wiring harness on certain2016 model year Cadillac ATS-V vehicles. In some of these vehicles, the orientation of the main-engine wiring harness could cause the wires to contact and chafe against the right-front valve cover bolt and washer. If the engine-wiring harness insulation is compromised, the vehicle’s tachometer, powertrain, and automatic-braking systems could be effected. While this condition could—if uncorrected—cause a loss of propulsion or the activation of the automatic braking system, GM has no reports indicating that either event has occurred on a vehicle in the field. This service procedure should be completed as soon as possible on involved vehicles currently in dealer inventory and customer vehicles that return to the dealer for any type of service during the New Vehicle Limited Warranty coverage period. So check for other TSBs such as VEHICLES INVOLVED 16 ATS-V TSBS Check for how the DTCs are defined will help zoom into the areas to look at first such as : Symptoms of a P2135 code can range from stalling when you come to a stop, total lack of power, no acceleration, sudden loss of power at cruise speeds or stuck throttle at current rpm. Additionally, the check engine light will illuminate and the code will be set. Potential Causes of P2135 DTC It's been my experience that the wiring connector or "pig tail" on the throttle body gives problems in the form of a poor connection.The female terminals on the pigtail corrode or pull out of the connector. Possible bare wire on pigtail shorting to ground. The top cover on the throttle body distorted preventing the gears from turning properly. The electronic throttle body is faulty. The accelerator pedal sensor or its wiring failed. The engine management computer has failed. The TPS sensors were not correlating for a few seconds and the computer needs to be cycled through its relearn phase to restore active response to the throttle body, or the computer needs reprogramming at the dealer. Diagnostic / Repair Steps A few points about the electronically controlled throttle. This system is incredibly sensitive and vulnerable to damage, more than any other system. Handle it and its components with extreme care. One drop or rough handling and it's history. Apart from the accelerator pedal sensor, the remainder of the components is in the throttle body. On inspection, you will notice a flat plastic cover on the top of the throttle body. This houses the gears to actuate the throttle plate. The motor has a small metal gear protruding up through the housing under the cover. It drives a large "plastic" gear attached to the throttle plate. The pin that centers and supports the gear fits into the throttle body housing and the top pin fits into the "thin" plastic cover. If the cover is distorted in any way, the gear will be compromised requiring total replacement of the throttle body. Pull the electrical connector out of the throttle body. Inspect it closely for missing or bent female terminals. Look for corrosion. Clean any corrosion using a small pocket screwdriver. Place a small amount of electrical grease on the terminals and reconnect it. If the terminal connector has bent or missing pins you can pick up a new "pigtail" at most auto parts stores or from the dealer. Inspect the top cover on the throttle body for cracks or warping. If any are present, call the dealer and ask if they sell just the top cover. If not, replace the throttle body. With a voltmeter, probe the accelerator pedal sensor. It will have 5 volts for reference and next to it a varying signal. Turn the key on and slowly depress the pedal. The voltage should climb from .5 to 5.0 smoothly. Replace it if the voltage spikes or it has no voltage at the signal wire. Look online for wire terminal identification on the throttle body of your vehicle. Probe the throttle body connector for power to the throttle motor. Have a helper turn the key on and slightly depress the pedal. If no power is present, the computer is at fault. If there is power the throttle body is malfunctioning. -------------------------------------- If problem is resolved, problems still might happen but it could be now that APP and TPS are NOT rezoned to PCM Some GM makes to rezone TPS as to angle of TB butterfly is with key on, engine off, disconnect the wiring connector of TPS PCM will trip a TPS DTC and set TPS angle at zero angle, go key off, plug TPS connector back in, turn key back on and PCM will rezone TPS angle to zero, Clear any DTCs JR _ Team ZR-1 Corvette Racing - Custom GM PCM and TCM Tuning
    2 points
  3. Hi guys sorry for not noticing this post before tonight. I have the unique privilege of having built a custom Art car from a retired police car. The B -Body and G body are essentially the same chassis with and extra 10inches of length added behind the drivers seat. I used a complete harness and all amenities from the Fleetwood in the Caprice. So I have run through the entire harness and merged. That power drain of 5mA is the delayed accessory buss controller pull the module and check again. However it never caused a battery drop below 11 volts for me so I always started. I was using a Optima Red that is kind of like a battery backup battery in it's discharge curve. If you had 8VAC on the battery during running there was probably a drain through the same bad diode module not measured. The cop cars came with a larger 138A alternator and a different drivers side bracket to support the big alternator with the heated front windshield option for the L91 caprice this bracket and alternator can be had from dealer as recent as monday a week ago. It uses a longer belt as well I installed one on my suburban. Also that noise in the AC is called slugging I worked for PRO at that time and we had hundreds of complaints but just replaced the compressors during the warranty rather than issue a bulletin. What the issue is , there are two versions of the R4/R11 compressor the R11 has about 50% more displacement but physically the same size. The larger evaporator on the Fleetwood and second Rear AC on Escalade and Suburban causes liquid to be present on the suction side of the compressor when using a R4 in place of an R11. Hense slugging and compressor failure. If you have the noise then you have a couple of options On g-Body you can swap out the evaporator with a B-body on the GMT400 Escalade and Suburban they went to a Sankyo compressor in 1996 junk yarding can find the complete bracket set , hoses and pulleys for about $150 the Compressor for 60 on amazon
    2 points
  4. Final update! The dealer turned out to be the best decision I made. The service manager and a couple of his techs were incredibly happy to see this car, and were around 'back in the day' when these were a bit more common. I told them about the shorted left cooling fan motor, and after a couple hours of cleaning contacts, determining that the harnesses were OK, they discovered that the fan itself had a severe internal short, and whenever the PCM would call on the fan to activate, it would short out and throw voltage around, causing my havoc. Now makes sense why the car would cold-start perfectly fine, but once warmed up, the fan would activate, and cause trouble. Also explains the intermittent nature of the problem. Once they had the fan disconnected, the PCM, Theft System, ABS, Airbag, PZM, etc etc problems were gone. We got lucky no modules were cooked, and the wiring harness survived. New fan is on order, and they want to spend a little time cleaning up the grounds by the engine and ABS module. I really thought this was the end of the road for this car, but I'm thrilled I get to keep her a little while longer! Only 80k miles on it, so I'll keep driving! Thank you all for the help - great forum here!
    2 points
  5. I think the 1995 was the last year of that version. It's not really a radio....it's just a head unit....it needs the amp too. So it may look like a self contained GM style radio....but it's just a head unit. But should be pretty easy to replace. I guess it is 25 years old..so it may simply have died. Be aware there are 'Bose' versions too....can't remember if those would be plug n play.
    2 points
  6. I do it every year. At least 1 every year, occasionally 2. Best tips. Fill gas tank full. Will keep tank clean and prevent moisture. Non ethanol, high octane is all I run period Put fuel treatment in the tank for how many gallons it takes. I do not disconnect the battery. I put a trickle tender on them all winter. Keeps battery warm and maintained. Leave the car sitting normally. Not on jacks, ramps, etc... I highly recommend running it to temp at least once a month. Helps to keep the oil from completely running down, keep things lubricated and moving. Running up to temp also helps to prevent moisture in the exhaust after shutdown. I get Irish Spring bar soap. 2 in trunk, one on each floor mat, 2 under hood. I open the boxes on both sides, and set. Smells great, and have not had a critter in almost 20 years. If garage is used and subject to water in certain areas I recommend keeping around the car as dry as possible. I personally do not like covers. Have dealt with and without. Still have to wash it either way in the spring. I recommend washing, waxing, vacuuming , and possibly shampooing before storage. Nothing like a clean car in the spring. Better for the finish as well. I pull all 4 mats and put them in the trunk. I realize I am very picky. I leave a temporary mat on drivers floor for when I have to start or move it A commonly missed one is coolant. Check your coolant condition. If coolant condition is not good and or acidic you will likely run into more issues after storage. Acidic coolant seems to cause more damage when sitting than driven. I have stored my Seville for the last 10 years and it is just as clean as when I bought it. Good luck
    2 points
  7. Wow.....I'm about to pull the trigger and buy the wheel mounting machine too. Be done with those fools at the tire stores. Now 3 cars........all 3 riding better than they ever have! So 12 wheels so far. Couple of interesting things.... 1 bent wheel. Bad enough I will have to replace or repair it before putting new rubber on. It's on the back for now. 2 wheels that had no weight at all. No witness tape marks or anything. Of course they are good now with weight. Lengthy review of the stuff by someone else (not me).....great pics. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/at-home-tire-machines-my-experience-with-derek-wea/170332/page1/
    1 point
  8. Been put off by local sloppy wheel balances for years......they simply are not doing it right.... Firestone....Discount Tire.... "We'll put our best new guy on it.".....yikes.. It cannot be done correctly in one or two 90 second spins. You really need about 20-30 minutes per wheel to get them right. Firestone finally pissed me off. Needed one BMW TPMS sensor installed on a single wheel....had the wheel off the car....had the new OEM sensor in hand....."Sorry....We only put our TPMS sensors in." Sooo......purchased a wheel balancer. So far....2 cars now driving perfect at highway speeds....A BMW and a Chevrolet. https://www.derekweaver.com/rodders-garage/wheel-balancers/weaver-w-937-40-wheel-balancer/ny Any questions let us know. Excellent product.
    1 point
  9. If the TCC, torque converter clutch, does not engage your transmission will run hotter and eventually could cause other problems (you are also losing efficiency). The code is for torque converter circuit; so maybe a wiring issue or a bad clutch solenoid. Here's just one link (there are others): P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off DTC (obd-codes.com)
    1 point
  10. The passenger side mirror will tilt down when the car is put in reverse.......then return to the original position when put back in drive. Driver assist kind of thing. On my 2001 Deville (same car).......the passenger mirror would return......but never to the correct original position. Gets old quick. There is a way to turn 'off' this feature. That is what I did. You might need a GM Tech 2 to turn on/off the feature....can't exactly remember.
    1 point
  11. I believe the mirror positions are 'remembered' as part of the seat position settings. Perhaps try correctly positioning the side mirrors, then re-saving (re-setting) the seat memory?
    1 point
  12. When they sound out of time.....they are often are. Sounds like something may be coming loose or failing in the timing chain system. Maybe off brand chain? Bunch of work.....but a lot cheaper to go in and look now. Curious.......Is the engine sipping some coolant? Maybe coolant is getting in to a cylinder. Why Big Serts? Why not the standard inserts?......Time Sert or the other ones? (I cant think of the name) Hopefully not Heil-Coils.
    1 point
  13. Just ordered new shocks for the CTS! Here’s an active code for 5% off till 9/30. MMAUG55
    1 point
  14. Good looking 49 Fleetwood 60 Special. I think this name is overdue for a comeback. Not a fan of simulated side scoops but love the look. https://www.hemmings.com/auction/1949-cadillac-60s?utm_medium=Promoted Listing&utm_source=Classifieds&utm_campaign=1949-cadillac-60s?refer=news&utm_source=edaily&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2021-08-18
    1 point
  15. Here's the one you want (but it has already sold).
    1 point
  16. Logan

    Mary Kay Cadillac

    I think GM actually paints the cars pink at the factory. They will paint any car any color if there is money to be made. I think they actually get repainted after Mary Kay is done with the car. I think the pink color code is actually patented. You cannot walk into a GM dealer and have the car painted Mary Kay pink. Bunch of them collected and used at Aretha Franklin funeral Lots on Google...
    1 point
  17. OK Folks... Time to revive this thread for a sequel. Recap: I had found a substantial drain of 1.7 A on the power lock circuit and a bad diode in the alternator causing 8+ ACV showing across the battery and potentially allowing "leakage" back into the car. Replaced the alternator and the AC went away and so did the drain on the power lock circuit. Whew, problem solved. Well not quite... After replacing the alternator it took 6 days for the battery to go dead. I whipped out the old fashioned hydrometer and every cell tested dead, even after a full charge. OK, all that AC voltage smoked the battery. I can believe that considering the guy at the parts store commented that I'm lucky that much AC didn't damage electronics. Off to Advance Auto for a battery I go. They tested the battery and said it was good. I debated that point and they debated the remarkable technology in their testing equipment. Then I told them to put a battery in anyway. Got home and whipped out that hydrometer again. Every cell in the new battery tested alive and well. I was satisfied. Let's see what happens. Since then the battery still dies. It can take a week or it may take 2 weeks but eventually, it is dead. Been hands off for the last few weeks cuz I am tired of it. lol. (I hear ya Rockfangd). Finally over the last week I got back into it. Put the DMM in series on the negative battery terminal and looked at the draw after the a 10 minute wait for the systems to all shut down. It fluctuated between .13 and .14 A. I pulled fuses to see where the culprit was. I pulled the CCM BAT fuse and it fell to 0 - .01A. Replayed a few times to be sure and to allow time for a beer or two to go away. Got my culprit. BTW. Take a look at the numbers I posted at the start of this thread. CCM BAT was the 2nd highest draw at 135 mA. Nice to know some things don't change. I am on the hunt for a CCM now as I believe it either has a short or some component inside has failed and it is activating something, likely in the security system and maybe even those door locks, running the battery down. It is an awful complicated mess as it involves the ignition key with the resistor in it and the CCM being programmed to expect that resistance. So I am in for fun and games when I do find a CCM. I may have found one. I will know tomorrow (8/4/21). The deal hinges on whether they can provide me the key to the car. Thanks to the internet, I have seen pics of the car and the key was in the ignition and bent. So I hope they don't try to fool me. The car was in a wreck and I don't think the driver fared very well unless they were real short. Looks like it drove under a semi and became a near convertible. I can measure the resistance of that key and buy a couple matching blanks and have them cut as a copy of my current key. As far as buying a CCM goes? Not happening. GM quit producing them at least 15 years ago (wouldn't want to pay that anyway). Cardone used to re-man them but they have none. And man, they are near impossible to find in a boneyard. And then you have the key hassle. I talked to Cardone and if I was able to get one from them I would have to put it through a learning procedure after installation. It takes 30 minutes and involves crazy gyrations of turning the key on and off repeatedly etc. But the end result is that in the process the CCM learns the resistance of the ignition key and you don't need to replace the key. I managed to extract a document out of them explaining that process so I got those goods. I could not get out of them if that relearn will work on any CCM or if they flash the ones they re-man with the code to make that possible. I will attach that document here for whoever is unfortunate enough to have the same problem. I also talked to the local Caddy dealer. They had to have a séance to ring up a tech old enough to be familiar. Got a whole bunch of "maybe's" and a possible price tag of 3 to 6 hundred dollars for me to bring them the car, new parts, old parts and permission to spend hours figuring it out. No thanks but I think I got what I was looking for. Listening in between the words I heard him say that some systems need to be flashed, some have a re-learn process and others need to be opened up and cannabilized. Well, I know there are 3 possible systems. I know mine is the "Passkey II" system and I know the Passkey II is the one that uses the relearn procedure. So, I think, if I have to buy a used one with no key I can do the re-learn and teach it my original key's resistance. I think being the key words... Now that I have made you guys read this book my question for you is: Can anybody tell me if they have seen the CCM BAT circuit pull current when the car is off and powered down and it WAS NOT the CCM itself? Side note: All wiring I have looked at is pristine. I have not found a damaged wire yet and have been inside 2 of the doors and all but removed the CCM during the process of looking at grounds and/or signs of wear or damage. Good grief. File size limits prevent me from attaching a 4 page pdf file. I am putting page 1 here and will see if it will let me put the rest in subsequent messages. If not, this will just be a tease. Feel free to email me directly and I will send you the whole 4 page doc! Again, my question for you is: Can anybody tell me if they have seen the CCM BAT circuit pull current when the car is off and powered down and it WAS NOT the CCM itself? Thanks folks! RC
    1 point
  18. https://www.hotcars.com/2023-cadillac-lyriq-ev-10-reasons-why-were-excited/ When Cadillac first introduced the Lyriq in 2020, it set a target date of late 2022 for the first deliveries. However, things have progressed quite smoothly for the EV since then and it will now launch 9 months ahead of schedule. US buyers can expect to start taking deliveries in the first quarter of 2022 for the 2023 model year.
    1 point
  19. Hi All. I bought my Bike last year. Was a long time coming. Between lack of time, crazy drivers, etc... I kept finding excuses of not buying one. It took me 7 months to get the license due to the covid delays. The satisfaction is smiling from ear to ear while riding. I rode Trillian a bit over the last few years (loved every bit of it). Now I love it even more. I drive as defensively as I always have. I drive everything like nobody sees you. The drivers around my area are absolutely terrible in so many ways. Bike is a 2005 Harley Davidson 883 Sportster. I am old school with bikes just like my vehicles. I will eventually be looking for something larger but it is a great starter bike. I started riding it about 2 weeks ago and have rode it nearly every day. Probably around 300 miles so far. Gets almost 50 miles/Gallon. (2 gallon tank). I would love to see more Caddy owners Bikes. What's the taste for our Caddy Fans.
    1 point
  20. While I've never use stop leak in my STS, I would assume you could put the product in the over flow tank and run through some heat cycles. I've found that the a/c delco tabs work quite well in another vehicle I've used them on. Link: Amazon.com: ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-108 Cooling System Sealing Tabs - 4 g (Pack of 5): Automotive p.s. I yield to Bruce's advise about the radiator hose; that certainly would expedite product insertion.
    1 point
  21. I think the shop created the lean code when they swapped the intake. Maybe a gasket rolled over or a hose may be unplugged. Just to be clear. There are (2) different TPS sensors in the throttle body. There is one in the the gas pedel. (3) total. Could be a ground issue or a rubbed thru wire. Stuff like the gas pedal sensor will 'look' brand new. What you really need is someone with a scan tool (and i dont mean autozone) that can look at what the sensors are doing voltage wise. Looks like the shop and the owner are just guessing at this point.
    1 point
  22. The 5 volt code is worrisome.....but some other things to check. Pretty sure that car is not using a throttle cable. But is a drive by wire. There are (2) throttle position sensors in the throttle body (TAC).....and one is in the gas pedal. The p2135 code will put the car in 'reduced power mode' and send a display message to the IPC. Not sure if there is a repair for the throttle body TPS sensors.....you might have to replace the complete unit.
    1 point
  23. The guy cleaned them all when he changed out the battery, but I'll look into it this weekend. I think those codes are for the steering wheel controls. Both the stereo and A/C controls both quit working at the same time. I'm guessing there is a bad wire in the steering column or under the airbag. I'd look, but I don't want to mess with the airbag. With my luck it'll go off in my face.. LOL. I'll have to check this weekend. Starts OK for me, but not the wife. Maybe it's her?? LOL.. Yeah, I hate those terminals. Should have stayed with the top terminals.. Thanks for the info.
    1 point
  24. Good Lord I'm amazed I remembered my login credentials. I joined here in 2009ish, when I needed tips for maintaining my '94 STS. I always liked this community. It was civilized, helpful, and direct. Fast forward a decade, I may have the opportunity to get my hands on a '85 Fleetwood Coupe. I'm wondering if it's worthwhile. Backstory: it belonged to a late uncle, who loved his '81 so much that he bought the '85 when he found out the coupe would be discontinued, so that he'd have a brand new Fleetwood Coupe ready to replace his current one. He died before that happened though. And so the car sat. My grandparents got the mechanicals refreshed in 2000, then parked it in their barn, where it's sat ever since. Now that they're getting older, it's time to start cleaning out junk, and in the back corner of their barn, under various boxes and stuff, is a "brand new" 1985 Fleetwood Brougham Coupe with 800 miles on it. The body fillers are toast. Obviously it'll need another mechanical refresh. It'll need new rubber everywhere. It'll probably need another coat of paint. There's no telling what rats and squirrels have chewed through. Last I checked the interior, about a year ago, it still smelled new. The leather seemed soft and plush, there were no obvious signs of rodent nesting, and the only thing that seemed out of place was the fallen headliner. I know it hasn't been wrecked or stuck together with Bondo. I know the HT4100 hasn't failed during operation, seeing how it wasn't even broken in to begin with. I'm assuming there's no cancer rust, although it's in swampy South Texas so who knows. So I can potentially get my hands on an interesting car with a story and some family significance. Any idea how much it could cost to at least get the engine running? I figure I can take care of the cosmetic stuff a bit at a time. In the end, is it worth it to save the car, or should it go out to pasture?
    1 point
  25. 😁 Welcome back. Feel free to send some pics. Those are tanks. Good luck with it. No pics. So sad
    1 point
  26. I'm going to give the Lyriq a look when it comes out (no pre-order for me); Interesting to see where Cadillac is going. It's going to take a lot for me to give up my CT6 though.
    1 point
  27. The controls for the climate control are the same for either engine for the 1992-1994 Seville. I have marked the buttons with their functions. If you have an owner's manual, they are also in there. If you don't have one, there are several websites that you can download a digital copy, if you want one.
    1 point
  28. HI ALL NEW TO THE FORUM I am about to start on a rebuild of my Seville STS. The items to be done or redone are as follows. I have an extreme stress job all mental so build the next two cars is my physical release of stress. To start with I have a blown gasket and a collapsed lifter. My spouse continued to drive the car and cracked the transmission cooler in the radiator flooding the engine with trans fluid and the trans with coolant. So pretty much toast. I have previously upgraded the brakes with Stage III Power Stop rotors and pads works nice but after sitting they require resurfacing. I will be making a polisher to do this as in my home state service providers are afraid of recutting rotors especially when they are drilled. Back in the 1980s I worked for GM as a DCS tech and forensic specialist out of Corvette Action Center and PRO. We had severe issues in Florida with the early Lumina brake systems warping rotors and chattering I designed a KentMoore tool similar to the Jaguar inboard brake resurfacer it uses #m polishing pads rather than cutting bits to resurface the rotors on the car. Pretty simple device bolts to the brake caliper mounting flange and uses air motor right angle grinders with spirolock pads. I have a couple of body issues one is the drivers side back door welt is rusting through under the welt so I will document how to do a simple resign repair, not bondo but epoxy. The roof channels have leaked on the electric top since I bought the car new. I am removing the electric roof completely and replacing with a simple after market sun roof with lift out panel. I will be trimming the interior to fit with factory styling. Because of the roof leak I have several issues in the interior one is a pretty bad case of mildew. Having restored flood damaged cars in the past I intend to use a Ozone generator to bleach the whole interior for several days. The factory material will be placed with flocked marine canvas and composite leather cloth. I found a great manual shoe stitching machine on Amazon that does a great job at sewing leather. I converted a L91 Caprice police car to a G body Fleetwood interior a few years ago was my main driver for 8 years. The interior stuff is always fun because GM tried to provide common tooling for many of it's vehicles and most mountings are common across many car lines. Not really happy with the Dash on this model I will be building a custom gauge cluster and navigation center using standard desktop PC components and linux open source software. The seats are functional but need leather replacement and due to my illness my back has a tendency to tweek on hard turns so I will be setting a pair of racing buckets into the build. If people need seat parts I will have two working units available. Since the roof leak was mainly in the drivers side A pillar the electrical seems to have been damaged so not bothering to repair it I will be replacing the whole thing with a new custom harness. The suspension was upgrade a few years ago with all new urethane bushings and aftermarket shock absorbers with level ride maintained I will document that process for the build as I will be removing the factory magnaride completely and replacing with a simple arduino based controller. This model of seville squatted nicely when over 90MPH and the ride stiffened greatly the after market struts have air ride built in and are actually stiffer so I have in mind a air valve control that will squat the car and keep it stiff all the time. The engine carriage mounts have already been up graded to urethane and HDPE I will document the process of making the mounts it is actually pretty simple. I paid someone to replace the transmission when I became ill thinking that I would bounce back quicker than I have so I will be building the jack and stand system to drop the carrier without the over head lift. Once the front body work is removed from these chassis they easy to work on. Many struggle needlessly to avoid dropping the carrier. A couple of weld up scissor stands and a porta power will get the car 36 inches off the ground lifted from the body welts on the sides. The carrier comes out as you lift the body with a weld up dolly it takes about 2 hours to pull the whole assembly. The transmission is a simple bent version of a 4L80E same parts mostly with a heavy chain. The differential will be upgraded to a mini locker like the ones used in the 7 5/8 rear of any GM they cost about $250 it makes some noise when making sharp turns but for HotRod use it stops the crazy unpredictable torque steer when accelerating hard. The week point on these transmissions is the 3-4 apply band and housing the after market has case repair kits for the GMC K series trucks that work in this trans. Another company TCI makes an upgrade kit for sprags and drums clutches and all for the 4L80E that works in this trans. I have not seen a decent High Capacity oil pan for this so I may need to weld one up. The front pump is essentially the same as a 4L80E so I will pick up a stahl convertor once I figure my torque peek. My engine has suffered the dreaded over heat than code 300 sporadic miss for years WOT usually cleared it out but after the last run it has an audible noise that matches the miss. Compression is good so I think it is probably a collapsed hydraulic cam adjuster. If it is a core shift in the head I will be documenting how to weld the bore and rebore a new. I am also planning on putting a turbo on this build or maybe a M122 eaton I have to get and accurate pattern for the difference between the XLR heads and the STS heads if there is a difference maybe someone hear knows. I will look at machining the adapters if practical if not turbo it will be. I plan to redesign the exhaust manifolds for this car either way the rear one is basically a modified log manifold. So if I go turbo it will be a mandrel bent log style manifold with a scavenging front pie wedge triY setup. The block will be either timesert or I saw a guy who makes larger studs for these engines I will inspect once apart and determine what course to take. As I am going to boost the engine I plan to add piston bottom oil cooling to help prevent lean burn through. Used it on many of my previous builds using diesel engine main bearing squirter inserts it works nicely. As I am boosting and planning on running at Higher RPM I will be looking at methods to stabilize the lower block main caps I can machine steel 4-6 bolt caps or simply girdle the whole bottom of the block I have to look at the webbing in the casting to determine whats needed. The pistons are pretty good in these motors is the originals still look good I will lighten them up and plate the tops with nickel the skirts will be coated with Tungsten Disulfide as I have about 4 Kilos of the stuff in my one blasting cabinet. I may select some after market rods once I get some accurate dimensions for them PCE in Australia has a bunch of nice H-beam rods that I have modified for strange builds in the past. As for the electronics I will be using my own fuel management system I have a couple of threads on other forums covering the fuel systems I have built. My Goal is to produce about 750 crankshaft HP dropping the car down into the 12 second realm. With a mild street presence. To do so either the M122 or turbo intake manifold will change so I may lower the engine in the cradle or put a cowl on the hood. It will be a fun build I will keep lots of photos and probably some how to videos. I figure about twenty or so commercial products will come out of this build so it will get rid of my aggression and please the wife on Total cost involved. This is my 50th year of Heavy automotive engineering and actually still love building hotrods. Also this is my 17th Cadillac Hotrod starting out with a 472 powered 1972 Chevy Impala with a complete funeral car Caribou interior and trim transplant. Tubbed rear wheels before they became cool. My favorites are the 9 Cadillac Cameros for racing. The guys called the Cadillac motors boat anchors but they started out over 300Hp and with shipyard blowers hit 700-900 easily. Look forward to having some fun.
    1 point
  29. Got it. Thanks Bruce. I will look that up and shop around. So, I put a new battery in the DMM as Rockfangd suggested and redid the diode test. Good call Rockfangd! It read 8.2 AC volts across the battery. Reading up on the ramifications of that and it seems clear to me the first step needs to be a new alternator. Showing that AC voltage (more than .5V) indicates a blown diode in the alternator. When the car is running it just results in dirty power. But when it is shut off, the blown diode will allow current to backfeed throughout the car wherever it can go. Last night a neighbor came over and we were hanging out in the garage. The Caddy was outside with the hood up. After about 10 minutes the under hood light turned off. As it should. But after 30 seconds or so, it came back on. Rinse and repeat. Totally made me more suspicious of the alternator theory and the retest today nailed it. Obviously all kinds of circuits are getting wake up calls when the accessory power is supposed to be off. So I can't trust the results of any of the circuits the voltage drop test pointed to. If the problem persists after the alternator replacement I will revisit that and hopefully I will have landed that manual Bruce mentioned, by then. I know some of you guys don't need all these details but I put them here for others that may be searching for the same problem one day. Sorry. 🙂 And besides. I have been driving and repairing cars for a long time now and this the first time I have seen a bad alternator function for at least 5 years. It was about that time when I had another situation where I had to rely on that 10 minute accessory power cut off (a whole 'nother saga involving the security system and a body shop that was sloppy) so I know for a certainty it is supposed to go dark after 10 minutes with the key off. Not go dark and then come back alive like I saw last night. Thanks guys. I will drop a note here when I have the alternator in place and report if it was the fix. Again, for reference for the readers out there. Hope so at 300 bucks! AC Delco. It is on order and will be here on 5/4. I'd rather drop 300 bucks than tear into the doors anyway! Fingers crossed. RC
    1 point
  30. Just FYI... I did find an applicable code on this website through a search: https://www.extrabux.com/en/coupons/detail/6244494.html I will post an updated code once I receive my shocks and another offer from Rockauto. 👍🏻
    1 point
  31. If the battery goes dead after 4 days of inactivity, the alternator, although it may not be performing to spec, is a separate issue. The door locks may be an issue if one of the lock actuators is not completing its lock/unlock and is still trying? I recall having a similar sticking seat issue where the power seat was basically stuck trying to move & soaking up power.
    1 point
  32. I like the info so far, and I think the crossover form makes sense. 300 miles range and 340hp/325 ft-lb torque are only 'ok' for a 2023 I think; I would have pushed for 500/500. I continue to feel Cadillac/GM are missing the fact that the Tesla's are also among the quickest cars adds to their allure. But, that said, I do appreciate the fast charging and full luxury features.
    1 point
  33. Hi Bruce, If I can get my new power antenna installed in my 89 Brougham, I'll be happy as a clam!!! Hi Tech is nice but I get a lot of compliments on my Brougham. What a nice ride! Dean.
    1 point
  34. Welcome to CaddyInfo. Sure sounds like a fuel pump issue. Have someone cycle the key on and listen to the pump. Should run for 3 seconds when key is cycled on. Do not mistake the Air ride compressor which comes on after the pump. If pump sounds weak or funny tap on the tank and watch the gauge. You may likely have a burnt pigtail to the Fuel pump module which is why it stalled out. And why the fuel pressure only went to 10. When the pump comes on the connection heats up and is lost. 38-42 psi should be good. Should hold for a short while
    1 point
  35. This is a little too much kumbaya (for me); how about some 'show stopping' electric range. I see where they are going, but 'transportation' should be apex.
    1 point
  36. Pretty good review, nice vehicle (would have liked a mention of MSRP); but overall, fine.
    1 point
  37. Odd.....Just looked up the GM service manual 2009 STS. No procedure to replace the boot. No procedure to replace the tie rod. If the inner tie rod falls out of spec....you replace the entire rack (!). A option would be to find some boots for other racks...and find one that comes as close as possible to the original.....Or find a used STS rack and get the boot off of that. Update......there are some on eBay......looks like V6 or V8 etc does make a difference......maybe some luck there..
    1 point
  38. Nothing really there except the catalytic converter and the exhaust pipe. That may explain the O2 sensor. I think all the EVAP lines are out at the sides of the car. If the SES lamp stays off after a 100-150 miles or so after clearing codes..... The system is ok. Sounds like they look at a scan tool and kind of make it up as they go. Most data on a scan tool would be Greek to most folks....sounds like they are really trying to figure out how deep your pockets are. In Tennessee.....they just connect a system and check for codes.....no codes and if your readiness monitors are ok you pass. All drive thru....no hoist...no visual inspection. If the SES lamp is on.....there should be codes. Sounds like it would certainly be worth your time investing in a $100 cheapo OBDII scan tool.
    1 point
  39. It's fixed. I could not remove the lock cylinder since I could not insert the key and the lock cylinder couldn't be rotated to depress the release pin. That failure mode was not listed in the service manual... I could not find any information online other than a locksmith from Georgia who repaired the same issue on a 2001 Deville but the video did not include the method he used to remove the cylinder... I called a locksmith because I did not want to risk causing any damage to the column. The locksmith confirmed there was a bent wafer in the furthest position in. He removed the piece that has the two wings and worked it with a couple of picks and was able to remove it. He replaced the bad wafer and re-installed it and started the engine. I just need to re-assemble the covers, steering wheel, etc.
    1 point
  40. The column is locked - I can't move the shift lever out of park as the key won't go all the way in to unlock the column. The column being locked presented a problem as I couldn't rotate the steering wheel to access the airbag release clips. I was able to remove the lower column shroud and depress the lock pin with a right angle pick enough to rotate the steering wheel enough to access the airbag clips. The center airbag is out and the steering wheel is ready to be pulled. My puller is for the old style Saginaw columns that have threaded holes for the puller. This one takes the type that uses j-bolts so it's off to one of the parts stores to borrow a puller. My plan is to get the lock cylinder out tonight and get a new one ordered tomorrow morning. Even if I were to free the existing cylinder, my fear is that it would act up again at a more inconvenient location or distance from my house.
    1 point
  41. This catch-up post was a lovely Christmas present for the Forum; thank you for posting. I would love to have a roadster to tinker with along with my ATS-V, but will have to wait for the right one to come along. Good luck in your Garage search.
    1 point
  42. We are restoring 2 Dukes at the moment, with a view to modifying one of them to more closely resemble the SS 100 Jaguar they were originally modelled after.... We have developed a wire wheel kit using Jaguar wire wheels and knockoffs, in either 15 of 16 inch sizes, with either a painted or chrome finish. We also have available many new and used Duke parts, since we have acquired 2 Duke kits that were stored and never assembled by the original purchasers Please let us know, if we can be of assistance Matthew Smith SU Rebuilders, Ltd.
    1 point
  43. https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/flint-1951-riley-roadster/7225604097.html The Riley RMA was produced through 1952, but not sure what this custom example still has in common with the original Riley; now mid-engined and plentiful customizations.
    1 point
  44. SteveW

    MAP Sensor and P0741

    I don't think the PCV hose vacuum leak was related but, perhaps the damaged MAP was. The MAP on that car tells the ECU what load is on the engine. If MAP thinks the load is higher, the ECU would adjust shift points and RPM accordingly. When the car reached 41 MPH, the ECU turned on the TCC but, the engine speed was improperly elevated due to misreporting by the MAP. Maybe this tricked the ECU to think the elevated RPM was due to slippage. That's my theory anyway. Didn't touch TCU connections or grounds.
    1 point
  45. krow

    Info on transmission

    got the fill plug out, quarter cup fluid ran out, put the fill plug in cranked and went thru shifter 3 times, while running took fill plug out and fluid started pouring out, 1 1/2 to 2 quarts, I did not expect any to come out, I,m at my whits end, fluid was dirty nothing when I ran a mag thru it Follow up, dropped the pan and cleaned it, changed the filter. Pan had some micro metal. new filter/fluid. Runs great shifts great. PROBLEM SOLVED.
    1 point
  46. Bought it from a collector (only previous owner) in San Diego, had it shipped to Texas in April 2013. The car is essentially "New Old Stock" as it drives and rides like it just came off the showroom floor. I have enjoyed this "PawPaw's hotrod" (as my granddaughter calls it) more than any other car I've owned and at my age that list contains a few winners. 2002 "Collector Series" Eldorado ETC... Best, Ron
    1 point
  47. Thanks for the comments, guys. Here's another you might enjoy... Best, Ron
    1 point


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