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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/31/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    This is my 92 Seville. Yes, it is a Seville and not an STS. I bought all STS body panels and bumpers from a salvage, painted them, and installed. It has been my daily driver for about a year and a half. I recently changed jobs and needed to drive 35 miles each way for 3 months of training. I was getting about 17 mpg so, I bought a 2017 Jaguar XF 20d. 42 mpg. BUT, that doesn’t mean I am getting rid of my Cadillacs. I have 5. The Seville has been very slowly losing coolant for a year or more. I’ve tested for head gasket leaks several times and nothing. Time for intake gaskets. Anyone who has been around long enough to remember “the guru”, may remember talk about some factory test cars with the 4.9 that had some interesting modifications. There were quite a few back then who wanted to try this but to my knowledge, it was never done. Photo of the project in comments.
  2. 2 points
    Allante intake manifold. The 4.5 and 4.9 are great motors . But, the inlet and outlet water pipes rust out that run underneath the engine and are no longer available.. It's a shame someone doesn't make those aftermarket!
  3. 2 points

    Struts and Shock again

    Terrance, I'm not sure if it is still working - I sold the '96 SLS in the Fall of 2010. Hopefully it's still working. Further experimentation on a '97 STS showed a 4700 ohm resistor did the trick but that was an STS, not an STS and the systems are different. The '97 STS went to the junkyard in early 2017 (at 225,000 miles on the clock) due to a cracked water jacket on the engine block. My current fleet is a '05 and '04 Deville plus the '93 Fleetwood Brougham that I have owned since it had 15 miles on the odometer. The Fleetwood Brougham has always been reliable as are the Devilles - probably one of the reasons I've been absent from this discussion board for awhile.
  4. 2 points
    Couple of things going on... Pre-bankrupcy 'Old GM' car.....limited production vehicle. 15+ years old. Some insurance companies are canceling policies on the XLR due to a lack of available parts. Example....used LED tail lights can cost $3000 each on eBay. The internet has kind of messed up local auto parts stores. Many no longer really keep a very large inventory of parts. Most can get what you need the same day or by the next day from the warehouse. The XLR certainly should not be classified as a 'common' vehicle or being able to get parts just because its a 'Cadillac'. Even GM does not have enough warehouses to keep parts for every car forever. They do try to keep parts around for about 10 years. Update......eBay shows 555 listings for XLR radiator.......also hundreds of listings on Google. Both include listings for new ACDelco units. You can get one.....just not during your lunch hour. The car is not a Chevy Cobalt.
  5. 2 points
    EUREKA!!!!! I FOUND THE PROBLEM!! The throttle cable bracket was putting too much tension on the cruise control trolling and throttle cables. A couple taps with a hammer to give it some slack and it idles and revs properly.
  6. 2 points
    Most if not all export cars had no keyless remotes. Some odd broadcast frequency conflict between the cars and some export countries laws. FCC type stuff. Easier and cheaper to sell the cars with no remotes than to try to comply with all the European laws. Pretty sure latter cars had them after those issues were cleared up. There is actually a RPO code for remote delete....T2R. Some info here.. https://www.cadillacforums.com/threads/94-seville-sts-export-version-remote-keyless-entry.38920/ Another dirty little secret. The German export Seville/ STS had non functioning 'dummy' third brake lights. German lighting laws on that one.....some of those cars ended up in Sweden. My next suggestion was going to be about the damaged wire harness in the trunk. The driver side trunk hinge can crush the harness bundle when closed and cause phantom working and non working circuits. It was easy to get a picture of a damaged harness this week.....this owner had the trunk liner removed. Wow....1992 STS....28 year old car...he's had it since new.
  7. 2 points
    Dear all, I think I solved it today! Unplugged an electronics box in the trunk...no more parking light running (by themselfs), Win! I found a box in the trunk that, after some research, appeared to be an Aftermarket thing..but was mounted professionally amongst the other GM Original controllers etc..but had some funky wiring to it that perhaps looked a bit suspicious..hehe. I removed the screws and inspected it, was written in italian on the back of it, hmmm, weird.. Opened it up and I see a bunch of relays..and it has an antenna, OK, so, it´s some kinda remote Keyless entry radio- receiver I guess? Brand: "Synkra". We/I havent had the Keyless operating for 7-8 years I think..just using the keys old school to open the doors, no remote "clicker" present since I can´t remember.... So, I unplugged it and no more Parking lamps, took the car out and all seems to be working as per usual. no problems and lights are operating normally, like they should! I assume one of the relays is stuck on the PCB..see image. I´ll get back here if the problem comes back, but most like it will not, it works great now. Thanks alot! /Olle
  8. 2 points

    My leather seats

    Hi All. I have finally found something that very successfully cleaned the leather seats I found it on YouTube and it really works. I went to my local retail store and bought a few leather brushes from the shoe section. I then bought a bottle of original Woolite detergent. Mixed 6 parts water to one part woolite in a spray bottle. I sprayed it into the brush and lightly scrubbed one section at a time, then wiped it off with a microfiber cloth. This is the most success with the least amount of work of any expensive cleaner I have ever used. Cracks aside the seats look like new. No fading, no loss of color. I now have to find a sealant that can be sprayed on after. I am very picky and am not easily sold on things that do not work. So Considering the success I had with this I am very happy. I have spent alot of money on cleaners and conditioners that left me less than satisfied and left a waxy covering on my seats that made them look glossy. I will try and post a before and after picture. I hope this helps many of you fellow leather treaters. And the best thing is how cheap it really was. Cost was 15.00 for the Woolite and brushes. and one microfiber cloth. A little elbow grease and superior results. No more expensive cleaners for me
  9. 2 points
    @rockfangd watch this video on voltage drop, this is where I would start.
  10. 2 points

    95 Deville - AC ISSUES

    Sudden no AC? Could be a bad compressor clutch coil. The pull in coil can sometimes fail and there will be no way to pull the clutch in. Or....sometimes the air gap wears into excessive gap....and the coil can't pull the clutch in....or it only happens when the engine parts are hot and expand. Both the AC coil and clutch plate can be swapped with the compressor in the car. No need to pull out the Freon. Most AC shops will simply recommend a complete new AC compressor assembly. They make more money that way. The actual style of the assemblies varies based on what brand of compressor etc you have....but the principal is the same. The brand can vary depending on year and engine etc. Some cars may have 2-3 different brands of compressors used on the same engine and year. I had one go out recently on a non-GM product...of course it happened on the hottest day....taking daughter to airport in rush hour....just as we were getting on highway.. Typically around $50 in parts.
  11. 2 points
    check the main ground near the starter, make sure clean and tight along with battery connections.
  12. 2 points
    First off Longest title ever😁 Have someone remove the gas cap and listen as you turn the key on. Pump should prime for 3 seconds. It was very common in this era for the fuel pump plug to burn atop the fuel pump unit. Fails unexpectedly when you least expect it. Not sure if yours has a access under the back seat for it. Post results first and We can go farther with diag Welcome to CaddyInfo
  13. 2 points
    Check the basic stuff first , fuel pressure There is a ground under the air filter housing on the drivers frame rail . It was there in 1998 and early 1999. It’s held in by a 10mm bolt .. the bolt is rusted on the bottom side and will break . I relocate it the ground on the bottom stud of the expansion tank . This will cause issues with phantom no starts or stall.
  14. 2 points

    Remember me?

    @Göran W Ok so I called the following with no luck Www.kanter.com Www.ecklers.com Www.NPDLINK.com Then I called these folks in florida, Convertible Tops Specialist, Inc, they had an ad in Hemmings Motor News, their webpage is http://www.topsdown.com and spoke to Heather. She gets lots of calls for this part and said it does not exist. The part is called a window sweep. Go to their web page and on the left under browse click, weatherstrip-convertible, then click, window sweeps/dew wipes and window channels. In there are many universal window sweeps sold by the foot, you will need to pull yours out and do some measuring and try to match something up. I think that is the best that can be done. Heather said you can email her, call etc. And she said they do ship internationally. I hope this helps you
  15. 2 points

    Remember me?

    American Sunroof Company AmericaN Specialty Cars The company that "made/assembled" those ragtops for GM!~ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Specialty_Cars Same company that changed/adjusted its name thru the years. Those parts have a GM parts number.
  16. 2 points


    I will definitely be checking on this website to keep up with anything going on and help out if I can ???? Said before that I have owned many caddy’s but this is first one I’ve actually worked on. It’s an experience!!!!! Thanks again !!!!!
  17. 2 points


    Fantastic !!!!!!! Replaced alternator with the AC Delco from RockAuto. Battery is charging just fine. Took some time but with the help from u guys it is now back on the road. Many, many thanks for the info to help me figure this out. Thank u !!!!!!!!
  18. 1 point
    A flash to the past, and not too past at that. These '90's models were perhaps the last gasp of the very softly sprung traditional Cadillac buyer. In '93 I had no means of acquiring one of these beauties as it was family time for the most part (station wagons and mini-vans) but my Dad had a couple of Caddy's that I got to drive, and even though very cushy, they handled better than most give them credit for (and power was good to great in any event). Cadillac starting making their move into the modern renditions with arguably the '05 STS but the '93 represented here, still represented the Mark admirably though Cadillac was starting to slip in the sales war. JMO and conjecture.
  19. 1 point
    mikkohoo writes: Ten years ago, I drove to the Port of Kotka to pick up this eBay purchase. I later made a video about it that became surprisingly popular. Here's an update on the car.
  20. 1 point
    That was a 'pretty fun' video; nice Caddy, needs some work but looks like it should clean up nicely. I learned a couple things (didn't know about the locked wheel covers) but I could have taught him a little something about how to add oil from a gallon jug (turn the container 90 degrees so the wide side is horizontal to ground to eliminate the glug, glug, glug).
  21. 1 point

    Mufflers 97 Seville

    Nicely done! They look great and I think you did a great job on the install! 👍🏻 I’m kind of surprised about your comment on the difference of smoothness on hard acceleration. I would have thought if anything you’d see slight gain in power and notable roar on WOT! I know especially on my ‘93 it was an incredible gain there, but I did replace the ailing cat converter with a high-flow aftermarket part at the same time. Just FYI, if selecting 2nd gear at launch instead of Drive, the acceleration is significantly better as well. My 93 would snap shift into 2nd at redline, and even squeal the tires at times! 😆 Enjoy the new pipes! 👌🏻
  22. 1 point

    Mufflers 97 Seville

    So today I started on the exhaust and There are a few things that are going to be a benefit here. Currently my ground clearance is 4.5" from lowest part of the car (exhaust) to the ground. That is at normal level ride height. Also the tailpipe side of the left muffler was crunched. Like 9 out of 10 of this era. I am pretty certain I did it last year backing into a parking space(we all have our days). With the new mufflers I expect the ground clearance to be at minimum 5.5". As the mufflers will be farther back by 2" The mufflers are also shorter than the originals. So they will tuck better behind the bumper rather than hanging so low. They will also be farther from the back of the car as the length is shorter. I have to pick up a few pipe adapters before I can weld them up. But I am very optimistic. In the pics you can see the rust developing on the mufflers and the crunch. Overall excellent for a 23yr old NY vehicle
  23. 1 point

    2004 DTS with 116,000 driving issue

    He's not really driving it......it will get worse pretty quick.....takes a little while to set the lean codes. But what he was doing......coasting......would be maximum engine vacuum at the time which a early stage failing coupler could suddenly start to cause a problem. He's at about the mileage they fail.....pretty sure the 04 is using that coupler. Mine was boggy...like bad gas. It would come and go some......as the coupler can sort of reseal itself. They dont just go to instant high idle. His description of a 20-30 second issue....is kind of what mine was doing.
  24. 1 point
    When the battery is connected, do the lights remain off or do they come back on? There could be an issue with the switch on the dash or one of the switches in each door that causes the body control module to think there is a door open. Is the "DOOR AJAR" light illuminated?
  25. 1 point

    Cooling Fan Operation

    Thanks for the information !!!! This website is the best !!!!
  26. 1 point

    61 Cadmino conversion

    Speaking of wagons, I once took a CTS-V wagon out on the track down in Joliet IL and that thing was nothing short of amazing! After taking both the coupe and sedan out, I really wanted to experience what the wagon would do. 😁 Even better, the wagon was equipped with the 6spd manual trans, and that thing rocked! I was smiling from ear to ear as I put it into a 4-wheel drift at 80mph on a corner! There was something about that extra weight in the back that gave it a more balanced feel to me! 👌🏻
  27. 1 point

    Brakes or Downshift to slow down

    One big hill near Birmingham, AL I always shift to a lower gear to keep the brakes from overheating....One big hill in Tennessee too. The hill in Tennessee actually has emergency decel lanes for trucks with failed brakes. If your on something like Mount Washington......you better have it in a lower gear.....or you will lose the brakes totally. Cars with smoldering brakes on the side of the road are common there. Even using a lowest gear....you may still have to stop and let the brakes cool off. Some cars are actually banned from driving up. Some Hondas and Saturns included. Honda now uses 'Mt Washington decent' as a standard for transmission design. https://mtwashingtonautoroad.com/drive-yourself/auto-road-vehicle-restrictions Also called 'engine braking'.
  28. 1 point


    Did you check to make sure the valve/orifice is not plugged? You can do a temp check... If the inlet is HOT and the others aren't as hot pull it out and look. Back flush it if everything else checks fine before you pull the core, or pull it since you had fun last time... JK Is the coolant level correct? What is the coolant temp?
  29. 1 point
    Yeah... They don't even make my pump anymore. It was a $400.00 piece when they did. Boneyard/used is the only way to go now. I don't even want to consider the plumbing. Wow. But mine still works so... I'm in NC and the emissions inspection thing is a county by county game. My county is emissions free but if I move 300 feet east or in any reasonable direction/distance around me, I would be subject to the emissions inspection problem. (I'm already violating that one with the MSD unit I am putting in but you can't see it so nobody will notice) So given that it came out relatively cleanly and as long as I can complete the job without mangling it, I guess I will just put it back in and keep life simple over the long term. Thanks for the feedback. I got excited at first, thinking of the mindless hacking I was gonna get to do. 🙂
  30. 1 point

    Trunk torque springs

    Checked with New GM parts direct and was advised by Jason that the trunk Torque springs for trunk lid are available . Part 15847684 and 15847683
  31. 1 point

    oil pressure low stop engine

    I would change the pressure switch before anything else period. Usually there is a dead giveaway when you unplug it. The oil leaks through the sensor into the plug.
  32. 1 point

    Electric pump or motor stuck on?

    Take a 3/4 inch hose and use it as a listening device. Listen to the alternator. Is the battery retaining its charge? See this thread https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/alternator-works-great-but-hums-when-ignition-is-off.853425/&share_tid=853425&share_fid=11843&share_type=t
  33. 1 point
    Göran W

    Electric pump or motor stuck on?

    @BodybyFisher No offense taken. I always try to point this out to "less expirienced" DIY´s to avoid misstakes. As You know I have a 4,5 and I think there are big differences to the ht4100 but I have never owned one.
  34. 1 point
    Before you open a door, roll down the window, and verify opening a door shuts off the circuit. Next step will be to leave the dome light on, and verify that after 15 minutes, the RAP (retained accessory power?) turns off the circuit. If the car has the obsolete onstar module in the trunk near the antenna, disconnect it.
  35. 1 point

    Trunk torque springs

    One Caddy dealer told me GM has something called FPAC. This is a system that if the dealer is working on a car and the Tech is in need of a discontinued part the dealer can go into this FPAC system and provide the VIN number. Any dealer with that part on the shelf is required to ship it for next day delivery. Never heard of that. Not quite that desperate. Just trying the Platinum DTS number one shape as long as I can. Nothing on Parts Voice or Vintage NOS
  36. 1 point

    Trunk torque springs

    Did not break but would not pop open like it did in the past. they were adjusted to max. Not sure dealer was correct when said discontinued. but glad I found on e bay thanks
  37. 1 point

    07 DTS P0302 & p0352

    Sounds like you know what the codes are etc. Curious.....Which cylinder do you think #2 is? Manual has you use Tech 2 misfire graph to verify. Manual has you move known good coil to replace....if problem still persists you replace the ECM.
  38. 1 point
    the B1009 is gone now since I cleared the codes yesterday
  39. 1 point
    So... It's been euhm.. well just keep it 'a while' and not do the month thingie, but it's time to post that kinda things are going to be under control Véry slowly but surely the engine is beeing put back together... Awaiting a new dipstick assy from Jake, as the original tube seems to have broken. We had a little set back as one of the alu ears that attach to the block was torn off, probably in the asumed earlier engine swap.. alu-welded it and allsgood.. It's blazing hot here but it seems all my nagging helped in my guy to get moving a bit.. With a little luck i might use the AC on the last moments of summer this year.. not bad after 3 years Hope everyone who joined this post is allright, wishing you well from sunny Amsterdam!
  40. 1 point
    When you say nothing, do you mean you turn the key and the starter does not crank? When this happens do you get ANY messages, related to security? The only code is E046? Please answer these questions, no crank vs crank makes a difference
  41. 1 point
    B2375 is related to the seat. That is the only code? Check fuel pressure, key on. Have someone sit in car and turn on key while you listen at the fuel fill. It will run about 5 seconds. Don't confuse the fuel pump with the level compressor for the rear suspension. If you dont hear the fuel pump remove and reinstall the fuel pump fuse and relay to reset them. In case they have a corrosion build up of green or white clean them off with electrical contact cleaner. It is very unusual for a crank no start in a situation like this.
  42. 1 point
    Glad it sorted out ; good job guys.
  43. 1 point
    Bruce Nunnally


    For example, if I upload a photo to imgbb.com or similar photo upload site, I can insert it here by "insert other media" in bottom right and "insert image from URL".
  44. 1 point


    How can I post pics to share my beautiful Caddy ? Every time I try it’s telling me pictures are to big. Tried reducing them on my iPhone but cannot get it to work ????
  45. 1 point


    Yes they did refund for defective peice. Thank u for all the info !!!!
  46. 1 point


    That is great news! It’s always a good feeling when you accomplish a troubling repair like this yourself! 👍🏻 Yes, there are plenty of experienced GM guys here that can help diagnose, narrow down options and even just bounce ideas off of! I’ve had 4 Caddy’s now, and just love them! There is something about the nice balance of style, ride and power! 😎
  47. 1 point

    1st Mods to CTS!

    Thanks Bruce, I’m really happy with the improvements! Would’ve liked to have gone with 285 width tire, but couldn’t justify another $60 per tire! 🥴 There appears to be plenty of wheel well space and it would’ve given me a little more rim lip protection. A couple of tips on the caliper painting part of the project... These aluminum calipers polish up nicely, so I used a disc sander and then hand sanded with 220 grit paper to get a nice smooth finish. Also helps to have a vice-grip clamped to the caliper to use as a handle while painting! 👌🏻
  48. 1 point
    Cadillac Jim

    oil pressure low stop engine

    Just now saw the post. The problem does seem well in-hand. I do agree with BBF and others that you need to work with the dealer that you trust or another mechanic. And, the first thing I would do if the car was mine is get another oil sending unit and ask the service tech to change it with an oil change, which I would schedule as soon as I had the oil sending unit in my hand.
  49. 1 point

    setting the timing chain

    You need to retract the hydraulic tensioners by moving the levers and compress the end. Then place a small nail in the hole on the levers to keep the tensioners retracted. Turn the crank until the timing marks on the crank and intermediate sprocket are pointing at each other. It may take up to seven turns of the crank to get them to line up. Lock the crankshaft in place. Loosen the bolts retaining the cam sprockets. Set the cams with the timing marks 90 degrees to the head surface. Use a small machinist's square to help you get it to 90 degrees. Install the cam timing chains in the proper order as called out in the shop manual - remember LH and RH designation is with the engine in a longitudnal position (as in a RWD car) and viewed from the driver's seat. Looking at the timing chains, it will be opposite. When installing the chains, you'll need to remove the sprocket to get the chain over the sprocket, then bolt up the sprocket. Leave the slack in the chain to interface with the tensioner. The opposite side should be taut. I was going to upload a picture but I don't see that as an option on the editor.
  50. 1 point

    The Goose is honking now!

    Well.. finally got the tips welded on and snapped a few pics. These mufflers are Dynomax Super Turbos, 2-1/4" in-out. These are the shorter 14" body due to some length constraints I had with the longer than OEM tips I married them to. I bought the tips on Ebay, but found out later I could have bought them online for much less. (live and learn) I put on the mufflers myself, and had a local garage weld on the tips. He used all stainless clamps, hangers and adapters for just $40! For those of you wondering, these style "resonated" tips do actually tone down the noise of louder mufflers some. I had her out and about for a few days before I could get them set up, and man was it loud! Some of this is probably due to the exhaust not being out from under the rear end also I suppose... Sounded great for a while, but it got old when cruising around. Now it is a nice deep mellow tone at idle and cruising, but has a nice snarl when you open it up! I couldn't believe what I found when I tore the old rotting mufflers off. The inlet size was 2" but inside the case it imediately necked down to a very restrictive 1.3" dia! What is up with that? Has anyone ever seen this on any mufflers before? I think this would be adversly affecting performance with too much back pressure. The were not OEM I'm sure, but somewhat similar in look. I sure like the new look and sound much better!