Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/17/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    Remember me?

    @Göran W Ok so I called the following with no luck Www.kanter.com Www.ecklers.com Www.NPDLINK.com Then I called these folks in florida, Convertible Tops Specialist, Inc, they had an ad in Hemmings Motor News, their webpage is http://www.topsdown.com and spoke to Heather. She gets lots of calls for this part and said it does not exist. The part is called a window sweep. Go to their web page and on the left under browse click, weatherstrip-convertible, then click, window sweeps/dew wipes and window channels. In there are many universal window sweeps sold by the foot, you will need to pull yours out and do some measuring and try to match something up. I think that is the best that can be done. Heather said you can email her, call etc. And she said they do ship internationally. I hope this helps you
  2. 2 points


    I will definitely be checking on this website to keep up with anything going on and help out if I can ???? Said before that I have owned many caddy’s but this is first one I’ve actually worked on. It’s an experience!!!!! Thanks again !!!!!
  3. 1 point

    Help: 1988 4.5L extreme rich fuel

    Yes - thanks for all of the info & I can sympathize with the distressed owner... I always wanted an Allante' when they were new, but couldn't afford one. I 'brilliantly' picked out a (white) '91 model because of its "great, easy-to-work on" 4.5L V8 (200 HP) engine. I bought it from the original owner w/ 23K mi. I drove it from Colorado to Texas & within 24 hours, I jumped in & moved it to higher ground, because of a 50-year flood & the underside took a beating from debris. I was told 'the oxygen sensor probably got knocked off' & 'no problem'... when my wife saw what a beautiful car it was, she said I WANT ONE, TOO! Luckily, Barrett-Jackson sent me an email, sporting a wonderful (black) 1-owner example w/ only 34K miles, 'everything works' & truespoke wheels; I told B-J I couldn't wait for it to be delivered & it came w/B-J paper floor mats, a tote-bag & other goodies. Both - (1) beautiful, (2) perfect interiors, (3) straight and undented exteriors. The white one has a noticeably thicker ragtop, as the former owner said she shipped the car to CA "you know - to that place that makes/replaces Rolls-Royce ragtops". Happy, Happy, Happy!!: Only thing is - neither one has run right. Not only that, they were NOT perfect with respect to stereo systems, lighted mirrors, batteries, doors hung right, tires, etc... I commenced to having everything fixed (I am not a 'modern' mechanic). I took both to a family-owned mechanic shop I've done business with for 20+ years & told them to do 'complete tuneups' i.e. new filters, hoses, plugs, wires, coolant, lubes, batteries, oil, tires, etc. & gave them the SHOP MANUAL I bought on ebay. Well - pick one up, drive it 2-3 mi. & then engine runs REAL rough & the tranny shifts real hard. At idle, the cars just shake & ca-chug-ca-chug. After taking them back for a THIRD time, I gave up & chugged down the street to another shop that works on everything from tour buses to motorcycles. I now have over $3K invested in each & wouldn't drive either to buy a loaf of bread. They both do the same thing... crank up - YAY! Drive 2-3 mi. & they start missing to the point of even dying in traffic. They still look great & are almost cosmetically perfect , but NEITHER ONE will run for more than 4 minutes before - strangling on fuel? losing the timing setting? I've paid for injectors to be ultrasonically-cleaned & several injectors to be replaced. The last time I put the white one in, I had to have it TOWED. Is there someone in this whole world that is an expert on the 4.5L engines? Should I take it to the Caddy dealer? I am REAL disappointed in these two independent shops. They don't burn any oil & the motors look perfect. HELP! - Thank You!
  4. 1 point
    What year ? 06-11 they changed the waterpump design an removing the entire pump housing ! It’s bolted to the back side .
  5. 1 point

    Intermittent High Idle Speeds

    I realize this is 7 years old but just want to thank you for this thread. I had the exact same problem, and changing the TPS solved it.
  6. 1 point

    Slipping drive belt?

    There are too many variables here between the 2 issues. Stiff steering can be caused by tight balljoints, tie rods, strut bearings, weak pump, column bearings (rare) I have never had any issues regarding belt length on these. I usually run a good quality gates or dayco belt. Or ACD when I can find them. Look at your tensioner and see where it sits with tension on it normally, If it is good it should be about half way between each limiter. Have you checked your grounds? That can cause issues as well
  7. 1 point
    I have one if you need it. You're still working on this car?
  8. 1 point
    So... It's been euhm.. well just keep it 'a while' and not do the month thingie, but it's time to post that kinda things are going to be under control Véry slowly but surely the engine is beeing put back together... Awaiting a new dipstick assy from Jake, as the original tube seems to have broken. We had a little set back as one of the alu ears that attach to the block was torn off, probably in the asumed earlier engine swap.. alu-welded it and allsgood.. It's blazing hot here but it seems all my nagging helped in my guy to get moving a bit.. With a little luck i might use the AC on the last moments of summer this year.. not bad after 3 years Hope everyone who joined this post is allright, wishing you well from sunny Amsterdam!
  9. 1 point

    What a day for a car show.

    Registered this one into a car show today. Was the only E/K platform Caddy. I never really see any in car shows so I feel mine is unique. The only other Caddy was a Fleetwood Hearse. No trophy but lots of ooh and aahs I put the brochures I got compliments of BBF and put out the kudos to our Forum. You could eat off this car. Made my day I would share more pics but for respect of other people I only took pictures of mine 😉 It bears to mention this car is still flawless. There is not one single thing that does not work, down to the last light bulb. Excellent for 23 years old
  10. 1 point

    Battery issue with my 97 Seville

    Well rest of my trip was flawless. Problem did not reoccur. I will still be replacing the bolts and spacer. I might add that when I replaced the negative cable (AC Delco part) the bolt had stripped before even being tight. Guess this is a telling of the quality of the product. So even though that bolt is already new it will be getting replaced anyway
  11. 1 point

    EVAP Delete

    Really it is not possible unless you can rewrite the computer to not look for it. It is always looking for the proper variable resistance feedback for every component it is testing. The conditions are never the same. there are too many factors. Ambient temp fuel level, and many others
  12. 1 point

    Computer trouble??

    Did you have the battery disconnected while all of the wires were being cut? I hope so
  13. 1 point
    Bruce Nunnally

    XT-V engines?

    After some thought, I am going on record and predict that the CT4-V 320 hp 2.7L inline 4 is the V-engine for the XT4-V, (up from 243 hp in XT4), and the CT5-V 355 hp 3L Turbo Six is the V-engine for the XT5-V, (up from 310 hp 3.6L V6 in XT5). You heard it here first.
  14. 1 point
    I was thinking the same thing as @barczy01 that is why I said check fuel pressure and listen at the filler to see if you hear it cycle. Thats easy stuff. THEN, if you don't find pressure, then check fuses, relays. Look into barczy01's ground issues thats great info. Here are 2 photos out of your owners manual showing the pump fuse and relay location, the fuse panel is under the seat
  15. 1 point
    B2375 is related to the seat. That is the only code? Check fuel pressure, key on. Have someone sit in car and turn on key while you listen at the fuel fill. It will run about 5 seconds. Don't confuse the fuel pump with the level compressor for the rear suspension. If you dont hear the fuel pump remove and reinstall the fuel pump fuse and relay to reset them. In case they have a corrosion build up of green or white clean them off with electrical contact cleaner. It is very unusual for a crank no start in a situation like this.
  16. 1 point
    PAUL T

    2004 Deville will not start.

    Thanks Mike, I talked to my Cadillac mechanic friend and he said that if the engine numbers (8th digit of VIN) match the starters should and they do. I am hopefully going to get time to take the one out of the 94 this weekend. My father-in-laws 2003 Cadillac Deville is having vacuum problems again. I am suspecting the rubber elbow at the left side of the intake manifold. I changed the plenum a few years back. I had a problem finding that elbow the last time I changed the one on the 2004 some time ago. I ended up buying a bent rubber line the last time. I will check again but may end up going the same route with the 2003. When I tear into the 94 I will have to see if it has the elbow and kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
  17. 1 point

    Remember me?

    Ill do a search for you and make some calls when I find your year and model listed, birddog out, goodnight
  18. 1 point

    Remember me?

    Its not really silence, I am like a bird dog. I called Fairchild no help, I called JC Whitney (usually good for oddball stuff), no help, scoured the internet and came up with replacement part numbers and I continue researching that. I even contacted LMC truck who I recently purchased from for an 89 Chevy C1500 to see if they had any ideas on sources. http://www.lmctruck.com I have not found a Hemmings Motor News yet, but I am still on the case. Do you know if these weatherstrips are snapped in place or affixed with adhesive? You are on my To Do list. Will update as I progress.
  19. 1 point

    cruise control 97 Seville

    Yay. Today I have success. Problem was at the black plug in the picture. The wire itself at the pin that goes out to the cruise module was bad right at the pin itself. Thus why the pin ohmed good but I still had no connection. Replaced the wires to the plug and voila it works again. The really sad part is that it took me nearly 3 years to get a chance to find the problem. Not hard to fix but when juggling the craziness I live time just flies. Thank you all for the help
  20. 1 point


    One quick way I figured out to do it with the iPhone. I select the pictures from my album and email them to myself. It will ask you what size do you want to email and select either the small or perhaps the medium size picture. Then save those pictures back to your album and you will have a much smaller size which you should be able to post here. Try posting those just one of those at a time.
  21. 1 point


    That is great news! It’s always a good feeling when you accomplish a troubling repair like this yourself! 👍🏻 Yes, there are plenty of experienced GM guys here that can help diagnose, narrow down options and even just bounce ideas off of! I’ve had 4 Caddy’s now, and just love them! There is something about the nice balance of style, ride and power! 😎
  22. 1 point

    Remember me?

    I did a search and found (I remember this company): Steele Rubber. The had the '89 Caviler convertible listed. Link: https://www.steelerubber.com/search?year=1989&make=chevrolet&model=cavalier&style=2-door-convertible
  23. 1 point
    It is fixed. I dropped the a/c compressor to make it easier to get to the hose. I used 3/4 silicone heater hose. I also replaced the lower hose. I cut it to drain the system so I didn't have to mess with the radiator. I have not had the a/c working and I installed the compressor without the hoses just to avoid trying to find a belt to work bypassing the a/c. It is now just dead heading to keep the stock belt.
  24. 1 point

    Right/Wrong way to recharge AC

    Deleting the code is the right way. Jumping the switch is the wrong way, review the factory service manual. In addition, oil is not needed unless a component is replaced, i.e. compressor, drier, etc, the oil is drained out of the component, measured and the same amount of oil added. Adding too much oil or adding oil willy nilly is not advised.
  25. 1 point

    1st Mods to CTS!

    Thanks Bruce, I’m really happy with the improvements! Would’ve liked to have gone with 285 width tire, but couldn’t justify another $60 per tire! 🥴 There appears to be plenty of wheel well space and it would’ve given me a little more rim lip protection. A couple of tips on the caliper painting part of the project... These aluminum calipers polish up nicely, so I used a disc sander and then hand sanded with 220 grit paper to get a nice smooth finish. Also helps to have a vice-grip clamped to the caliper to use as a handle while painting! 👌🏻
  26. 1 point
    I hate to jump in as I am just a shade-tree mechanic but found a video from South Main Auto (does videos on auto problems) and found a NorthStar that had a fuel pressure problem (good pressure but couldn't hold pressure with pump off). It's a 20 minute video with his diagnosis process. May or may not be germane, but here it is:
  27. 1 point
    Well, haven’t fixed it yet but almost certain is rear passenger hub now. When reinstalling that wheel after painting brake calipers it was obvious it had a crunching/grinding noise when turning wheel. Checking records other side was replaced at 96k mi and has 113k now. Its going in Tues. for mounting new tires so I’ll have the shop take care of it. Have no time myself unfortunately and need to have it every day for commute.
  28. 1 point
    The Whelen Engineering Cadillac DPi-V.R came home fourth in today's running of the IMSA WeatherTech SportsCar Championship Acura Sports Car Challenge at the Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course. View the full article
  29. 1 point
    @BodybyFisher Thank you ! I think I did another post on the inlet removal a while back???????
  30. 1 point

    Any 4.9 experts? Idle issues

    Check engine vacuum at idle 18-21” with a gauge check the main ground stud and bracket next to the starter motor . Make sure it’s tight and clean isc retracted the tps should be .57 running and set min air with alternator connector grounded to turn alt off. full extended I think the isc is 1.13 I think can’t remember and you adjust the isc plunger screw for full extended adjustment. Engine off on this setting . i have had a harmonic balancer spin and when the mechanic went to set timing it was way off so maybe verify tdc#1 and mark on water pump . The idle learn has to be started I think when the car is fully warmed up . 15 min running and 1 min in drive and 1 min in drive with ac on .
  31. 1 point

    Bose system aux input

    Check on www.thirdgen.org There is a guy there who adds jacks for bluetooth etc. on factory Delco units. He may be able to help ya.
  32. 1 point
    Only been in the place once to get me a new Hooters t-shirt! With the bus lines running direct from the ghetto to the place and the almost daily violent and petty crimes being commited I will stay away unless I have my pistol locked and loaded! During the heavy snowfalls they usually send guys up on top to shovel it off or deflate the roof to melt it. The Carrier dome with NO air conditioning built into it! LOL! Who said educators had any brains or common sense? DUH! Forgot to say I have been to the dome many times for concerts, SU b-ball and f-ball too! The stairs are a SOB, Seats hard , Parking a PIA, and warm beer and food $pendy but cheap compared to some of the major league parks I have been to ! Seen Santana there as it was the first concert there IIRC!
  33. 1 point

    Bose system aux input

    I did it on my 1996 and 97s. Was pretty involved. I did mine at the cd changer and used cds with silent tracks. I can get into details if you have a cd changer in the trunk. Not sure on the 95 though. That is the last year for that design. I assume you would have to do it at the amp behind the back seat. You could do it with the cassette. Let me know what you think
  34. 1 point
    We soaked it with Marvel mystery oil for a few days. We set the timing, We got it to start, it ran a little rough at first we discovered it had a bad valve so we had to take care of that problem but as of now it's running beautiful. thank you for all your help 😃
  35. 1 point
    @Lance Johnson What was the end result with this?, did you get the engine to turn?
  36. 1 point

    Brake lights not working

    Factory LED tail lights. The third brake light can fail all by itself....so it may be unrelated. Each tail light has its own fuse in the fuse block under the back seat. To add to the confusion....the fuses are not located side by side....they are spread apart pretty far in the fuse block. Does the car have a aftermarket alarm system or remote start installed?
  37. 1 point


    I could be wrong but I am pretty certain that the newer tube style that was used in the 97+ should be a replacement for that valve. I believe I still have one that you show. Thanks Bruce for Reviving one of my Threads
  38. 1 point
    On the Northstar the camshaft position sensor is on the passenger side end of the rear cylinder head. No where near the oil filter housing. See attached pic. Do you really mean crankshaft sensors? There are 2 on front of engine....kinda near the oil filter housing. You do have the Northstar and not the 4.9L engine right?
  39. 1 point
    This task was undertaken to get to the photo cell sensor for the Twilight Sentinel on a 1989 Sedan de Ville. The Service Information Manual implies in the step by step instructions that you can remove the speaker grille before removing the upper trim pad on the dash - you can't. The two speaker grilles are held on to the dash pad by pressed metal nuts that screw on to four threaded plastic posts on each grille. You just break off the posts if you try to pry these grilles off. Apparently these were changed over to a friction fit at a later point in time, but that was after 1989 and the manual writers got ahead of themselves. To Remove the Dash Upper Trim Pad: 1. There are three very long screws that are located on the defroster/defogger vent which are easy to see and all of these must be removed. Because they're so easy to see I did not document them with photos. 2. There is a single screw located behind each dash vent, for a total of four. You have to remove the dash vents to get to them. 3. There are two additional screws located inside the glove box at the top that must be removed. Once these are out the dash pad can begin to be lifted out. You have to be careful as there is a hose and an electrical connector attached to the upper trim pad on the passenger side that have to be removed as well. A close-up of that assembly on the passenger side of the upper trim pad: Shot of the driver's side of the upper trim pad from below as I'm removing it from the car. Obviously that was just before I put it on top of the car to take the preceding picture: Now, on to what you'll see under that upper trim pad that's related to the Twilight Sentinel, located on the driver's side: NOTE WELL: When you are putting the dash vents back in the easiest thing to do is to insert them in to the openings with the vanes pointing as close to directly upward as you can, then rotate downward, pressing firmly as you do so. They'll reseat this way very easily. I hope that the above may prove helpful to anyone who needs to get the upper trim pad removed for whatever reason.
  40. 1 point


    Assuming the battery is not original, old, weak or worn out.....sounds like the car might have a parasitic drain....so a computer, module or relay may be staying turned on and draining the battery.
  41. 1 point
    It really could be anything right now.... DI engines are kind of known to carbon cake the intake valves. I have 3-4 DI cars here and have never had the carbon problem that I'm aware of. I guess we are offering ideas on what it could be. Pretty sure you will need a scan tool to see any engine data....one of the parameters would show the fuel pressure. No way to hook up a gauge on a high pressure system. Pretty sure you will not find a fuel filter. You might find this link helpful.. http://www.underhoodservice.com/direct-injection-diagnostics-taking-pressure-readings/ .
  42. 1 point
    I really don't know what to think about this with what happened in 2007/2008/2009 where they were heavily invested in trucks and suvs when fuel blasted through $4/gallon. Gas is low now so they chase trucks, suv's and crossovers again? They have created excitement with their recent offerings and abandon them? This looks suspicious to chase trucks, crossovers and suvs. Think about what carly fiorina did to HP with bad decisions. And why did they do this? , Oct. 3, 2018. General Motors appointed a former deputy director of intelligence at the Central Intelligence Agency to its board on Wednesday. Jami Miscik is the chief executive and vice chair of Kissinger Associates, a political consulting firm founded by former U.S. Secretary of State Henry Kissinger. She has held various top roles at the firm since 2009. Before that, she worked at Lehman Brothers and Barclays.
  43. 1 point

    TPS and ICM Question

    Disconnect the cruise control cable its ok. I want you to diagnose this by removing the throttle cable and feeling the throttle body plate opening and closing for smooth motion with nothing obstructing or binding it throughout its full range. It should have a strong spring pressure to close it also. The rod/shaft that holds the plate goes through the throttle body on both sides on carburators wear used to occur, we have not seen owners complaining about worn out shafts/rods, but look it over. It should open and close smoothly with little or no play in the shaft that might interfere with its closing. Manipulate the cable in both directions.to see if it feels to be binding or gummed up and sticking. It should be free. Go down and look at the end that connects to the pedal look for freying, kinking, binding or mis-routing. When you reassemble it, the throttle should sit on its stop every time. It sounds like you might have a cable problem.
  44. 1 point

    Scared of Northstars!

    Go look up 2003-2008 Toyota 2.4 L head bolts. Huge problem...typically the back 3 bolts (firewall side) pull up...Toyota has moved on. Those use the same M11 x 1.5 thread. Not that there is anything wrong with that....just the same. Your 2005 should be using a M11 x 2.0 thread. We do rent the Timesert kit for that.
  45. 1 point
    STS 2005

    Ignition Switch, changing ?

    Its done . Learning by doing.... :-)
  46. 1 point
    Well for starters check your oil level. Is the engine noisy? You might just have an oil pressure switch saturated with oil internally. (common problem.)
  47. 1 point
    Recheck the firing order Check for spark Check plug gap, I believe .035 (wow out of the cob webs) Check that the coil is powered correctly Did you check that the timing chain marks on the cam gear lined up? Fuel pressure, (using OEM pump?) Pull top of carb over check fuel level and that the float is free Choke slightly open, not tight closed Spray starting fluid in carb, does it start? Hold foot to the floor, see if it starts Check compression, add table spoon of oil to each cylinder if low. (I think you did this) Never stand in front of engine when cranking (your hair will get singed off don't ask how I know that lol)
  48. 1 point
    Glad to hear you finally received it. Let us know how we can help. PS, love the shop you are in, very bright, I need a shop like that!
  49. 1 point
    Your replies have been less than helpful and in some cases rude. This is a give and take, we can't help without feedback from you. Example, look at your reply to what I said above, "yes there is TC 0027 and TC 0073"? Well no kidding, it was in your first post. Above you are looking for a single problem causing no 1,.3 and 4 shift, when there could be 2 causes. The point that I and Bruce were bringing up was that a traction control issue CAN INDEED cause second gear starts. You ignore that idea because "the TC light has been on for ages". The 27 alone will cause the message, but 00073?, 0073 is a serious code that turns the traction control light on and turns traction control OFF. I can easily see that causing a second gear start. You may be experiencing 2 separate problems here. I ask for your email, to send you the flow diagrams and you ignore it. OldCadTech shows a picture regarding a TCC valve in the upper control valve body related to the P0741 and you are rude? You seem frustrated, I get that, but you seem to be putting up road blocks and arguing rather than looking for solutions, ie, the traction control light has been on for ages, the torque converter was tested at the dealer, upper valve body, hmm, it says to test the resistance at the solenoid not the plug, etc. First, I have no idea how the dealer tested the torque converter. Do you understand that the P0741 is related to slipping torque converter overdrive clutches, slipping causes heat and the clutches to wear and depending upon how long it slipped the clutches are permanently damaged. Given that the tranny must come out to replace the torque converter, under no instance would I not replace the torque converter once I saw a P0741 code unless I immediately parked the car after the P0741 code showed up which is unlikely in most cases. It is not likely valve springs, its the valves themselves causing the problem, scored, binding, debris or leaking from wear. The low mileage of the car means nothing. Did the rebiilder disassemble, inspect and clean the valve bodies and was he meticulously clean? Was care taken to be sure the check balls are back where they belong. We have seen members change the shift solenoids and wind up with similar issues. You are making a lot of assumptions that I think are causing you problems try to be OPEN to suggestions. You say you are from Europe, we could be having communication problems as a result along with the time difference. But this type of commumication does not work unless both parties are on the same page. Try to be more open to suggestions and more forthcoming with information, we are trying to help here. Assume nothing
  50. 1 point

    Stabilizer for decaying dashboard

    I use a windshield deflector when my cars are parked outside (when I'm at work) and that has kept the dash like new on my cars. Armor all does have a low gloss formula so it won't give the glare on the windshield. You might try talking to an automotive trim shop - one they may have some idea on what to apply to halt the degradation of the vinyl.