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  1. Classic Roadsters Duke Jaguar SS-100 Replica, Epilogue. I don't know if anyone sees or is following this part of the forum any more, but I thought I would post a final report of my Jaguar ownership experience after reviewing my original thread. On May 22, 2019, I helped load my Jaguar onto a transport trailer to be shipped to its new owner in Phoenix. After six years of ownership that featured lots of fun driving, a few breakdowns, quite a bit of maintenance education and work, we decided we had satisfied our Brit roadster yen and wanted the garage space back. A Craigslist ad brought me a
    3 points
  2. I do it every year. At least 1 every year, occasionally 2. Best tips. Fill gas tank full. Will keep tank clean and prevent moisture. Non ethanol, high octane is all I run period Put fuel treatment in the tank for how many gallons it takes. I do not disconnect the battery. I put a trickle tender on them all winter. Keeps battery warm and maintained. Leave the car sitting normally. Not on jacks, ramps, etc... I highly recommend running it to temp at least once a month. Helps to keep the oil from completely running down, keep things lubricated and moving. Runni
    2 points
  3. jvf1095

    Odd Ball Northstar?

    Hello & thanks for the advice. Attached a picture. Enjoy!
    2 points
  4. @BodybyFisher got the new alternator, pulled the old one out and there was something rattling around int it. Was able to get some of it out it was very brittle plastic. also there was a bracket that is used to tension the belt for the alternator that was turned and wasn't putting tension on the belt. I got everything back together and it is running great, checked the battery and alternator volts with my dvom and it is charging at 14.6. so I think I got her going. thanks for your replies @BodybyFisher if you see anybody having a similar problem send them my way. and I can add pictures of
    2 points
  5. For a halo car, sales were surprisingly strong. Cars were in dealerships by the spring of 1930, and in the first two months of sale the V-16 cars accounted for some 20 percent of Cadillac's sales, far more than GM expected. But the Great Depression was taking hold, and the introduction of the 135-hp V-12 engine in 1931, fitted to a smaller chassis, impacted V-16 sales. Cadillac sold 2,887 V-16 cars for 1930, but only 750 in 1931, more than half of which were leftover 1930s—only 364 V-16s were produced in 1931. Read more: https://www.automobilemag.com/news/cadillac-v-16-engine-history-pho
    2 points
  6. This is my 92 Seville. Yes, it is a Seville and not an STS. I bought all STS body panels and bumpers from a salvage, painted them, and installed. It has been my daily driver for about a year and a half. I recently changed jobs and needed to drive 35 miles each way for 3 months of training. I was getting about 17 mpg so, I bought a 2017 Jaguar XF 20d. 42 mpg. BUT, that doesn’t mean I am getting rid of my Cadillacs. I have 5. The Seville has been very slowly losing coolant for a year or more. I’ve tested for head gasket leaks several times and nothing. Time for intake gaskets. Anyone
    2 points
  7. Allante intake manifold. The 4.5 and 4.9 are great motors . But, the inlet and outlet water pipes rust out that run underneath the engine and are no longer available.. It's a shame someone doesn't make those aftermarket!
    2 points
  8. Terrance, I'm not sure if it is still working - I sold the '96 SLS in the Fall of 2010. Hopefully it's still working. Further experimentation on a '97 STS showed a 4700 ohm resistor did the trick but that was an STS, not an STS and the systems are different. The '97 STS went to the junkyard in early 2017 (at 225,000 miles on the clock) due to a cracked water jacket on the engine block. My current fleet is a '05 and '04 Deville plus the '93 Fleetwood Brougham that I have owned since it had 15 miles on the odometer. The Fleetwood Brougham has always been reliable as are the
    2 points
  9. Couple of things going on... Pre-bankrupcy 'Old GM' car.....limited production vehicle. 15+ years old. Some insurance companies are canceling policies on the XLR due to a lack of available parts. Example....used LED tail lights can cost $3000 each on eBay. The internet has kind of messed up local auto parts stores. Many no longer really keep a very large inventory of parts. Most can get what you need the same day or by the next day from the warehouse. The XLR certainly should not be classified as a 'common' vehicle or being able to get parts just because its a 'Cadillac'.
    2 points
  10. EUREKA!!!!! I FOUND THE PROBLEM!! The throttle cable bracket was putting too much tension on the cruise control trolling and throttle cables. A couple taps with a hammer to give it some slack and it idles and revs properly.
    2 points
  11. Most if not all export cars had no keyless remotes. Some odd broadcast frequency conflict between the cars and some export countries laws. FCC type stuff. Easier and cheaper to sell the cars with no remotes than to try to comply with all the European laws. Pretty sure latter cars had them after those issues were cleared up. There is actually a RPO code for remote delete....T2R. Some info here.. https://www.cadillacforums.com/threads/94-seville-sts-export-version-remote-keyless-entry.38920/ Another dirty little secret. The German export Seville/ STS had non functioning 'du
    2 points
  12. Dear all, I think I solved it today! Unplugged an electronics box in the trunk...no more parking light running (by themselfs), Win! I found a box in the trunk that, after some research, appeared to be an Aftermarket thing..but was mounted professionally amongst the other GM Original controllers etc..but had some funky wiring to it that perhaps looked a bit suspicious..hehe. I removed the screws and inspected it, was written in italian on the back of it, hmmm, weird.. Opened it up and I see a bunch of relays..and it has an antenna, OK, so, it´s some kinda
    2 points
  13. Put a fuel presssure gage on it to see exactly what the fuel pressure is with the key on. Its nice that its running, but whats the pressure. Don't parts replace, leave the plugs alone, they won't cause a no start problem Tell us the history of the car was this a sudden problem? Did the car sit for a long time? Did you dump fuel in it from a container that might have water in it? Drain a little fuel using the fuel pressure gage, into a clear glass bottle and let it sit, if water is in there it will separate. Have you checked for codes? Buy a spark tester at the parts
    1 point
  14. Beautiful car you are lucky to find that with low mileage. It has been said that the head gaskets blow because coolant goes acidic from not being changed, it eats the head gasket and coolant leeches into the headbolt threads and corrodes them via electrolysis weakening the threads and the bolts pull out of the block. We had a Northstar powertrain here for a while and that was GMs finding on the matter. And I am not doubting GMs prognosis, because I have seen aluminum block material turned to dust from electrolysis and acidic coolant would facilitate that. I have since blown
    1 point
  15. The big items were "Spare Parts" at $2,912 and "Other Material" at $3,782". The bumper guard and paint are supposed to be $250 or less, but they probably replaced the bumper beam and at least one of the two shock absorbers, which can easily run $3K. But, another $3.7K for "Other Material" that was not itemized??? A bill of that magnitude from any source must include a full breakdown of all parts, their source, and your cost of those parts. Some would include manufacturer part number on the parts. This is very important for Cadillac or any high performance auto repair because many mech
    1 point
  16. Son the 90 Caddy we found the problem. There is a check valve in the sending unit assembly that keep the vent line from sucking in fuel from the return line. It went bad when we changed the pump. Right now I have the line blocked off as is is hot at heck here and I don't want to stress my guy in the heat. Next month I'll order the part and have him put it in.
    1 point
  17. @Logan I am confused, because the PCM is a remanufactured one, and the old PCM just look to do the exact same issue, but what you say about the PCM has sense for sure. About throttle shaft i don't think, the throttle body is new. Did you see my video ? if yes, can you confirm this is not normal in this car ? About the PROM, that exactly the one i order finally if that not the issue, can only be good to keep it as spare just in case since i plan to keep this car for long. Thanks for help.
    1 point
  18. Early GM Techline terminals used to have a PROM charts back in the DOS and IBM PS2 days. It would have specific PROM details for every GM car. You could search each and every PROM for details. Haven't seen those charts in 15 years. There is more to it than this PDF chart.....details like engine....FED, Canada, export emissions....trans....final drive ratio....maybe 20 Proms per car. Did find some info... page 63 http://www.scotthansen.net/BCCLookup.pdf Some eBay Prom and ECM BBSX details.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Prom-Chip-BBSX-1993-Cadillac-Eldorado-4-6L-PCM-E
    1 point
  19. Video is online, here the link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fH2I4wBJHFg That show exactly the issue, and when engine cold, that the same. Thanks again
    1 point
  20. Actually.....the Chart 6C-6 is in the 1993 manual. The procedure is the same.....but the schematic IS different. It is on page 6C-40 1993 service manual. PROMs / Memcals were around before PCs and the internet. The same car may have have 25 different PROMs available for different options or markets (California, Canada, US FED emissions) manual or automatic trans or gear ratios or even different engines (Think Pontiac Grand Am...2 different 4 cylinder engines and a 6 cylinder engine available) etc. There may be a new PROM issued to fix a transmission chuggle issue k
    1 point
  21. Thank you so much , I really appreciate you taking the time to reply, and with great links .
    1 point
  22. 1968 Cadillac coupe DeVille On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Cadillac-DeVille/153989782599?
    1 point
  23. ooh, thats a nice spoiler. I would like to find a tasteful one for my Deville. Never seen another 3 part one like the one on my Seville
    1 point
  24. A quick look at the GM service manual shows no mention of a Tech1 or Tech2 being able to cycle the pump. You do know the unit can be split open? Right?
    1 point
  25. My '95 Seville has the Homelink with the red lamp. Nothing I could do would program my garage door opener, because of the "rolling code" garage door openers these days. After researching, I have found that GM vehicles '97 and under have the Homelink red lamp system which worked with the non rolling code garage openers. Beginning in 1998 mode year, Homelink then switched to the amber light system, which means they are equipped to program the rolling code garage door openers of today. Off to the junk yard I went today. Got really lucky, found a '99 Deville, and removed the Homelink transmitter
    1 point
  26. Absolutely beautiful. I am still hot for one of these. Almost sealed the deal on one just before the shut down this year
    1 point
  27. A flash to the past, and not too past at that. These '90's models were perhaps the last gasp of the very softly sprung traditional Cadillac buyer. In '93 I had no means of acquiring one of these beauties as it was family time for the most part (station wagons and mini-vans) but my Dad had a couple of Caddy's that I got to drive, and even though very cushy, they handled better than most give them credit for (and power was good to great in any event). Cadillac starting making their move into the modern renditions with arguably the '05 STS but the '93 represented here, still represented the Ma
    1 point
  28. Color in your Cadillac https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2020/05/04/coloring-in-these-classic-car-images-is-great-and-all-so-what-you-really-want-is-more-car-images-to-color?refer=news&utm_source=edaily&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2020-05-04
    1 point
  29. mikkohoo writes: Ten years ago, I drove to the Port of Kotka to pick up this eBay purchase. I later made a video about it that became surprisingly popular. Here's an update on the car.
    1 point
  30. Sounds like a cool guy; I wouldn't mind "chewing the fat" with him for a while.
    1 point
  31. Ughhh that sucks for sure! 😖So glad that we’ve been done with that for a while now! Did my first complete hand-wash job on the CTS the other day! Nice to get everything in the door jams, under hood and trunk lid finally! All dressed up and no place to go with this shelter-in-place order though... 😔
    1 point
  32. Nice video and he made it look easy but I'm spying 35 year old knees performing all that work; I still have the passion, it's just my 70 year old knees don't like it so much (anymore). 😀
    1 point
  33. So today I started on the exhaust and There are a few things that are going to be a benefit here. Currently my ground clearance is 4.5" from lowest part of the car (exhaust) to the ground. That is at normal level ride height. Also the tailpipe side of the left muffler was crunched. Like 9 out of 10 of this era. I am pretty certain I did it last year backing into a parking space(we all have our days). With the new mufflers I expect the ground clearance to be at minimum 5.5". As the mufflers will be farther back by 2" The mufflers are also shorter than the originals. So they
    1 point
  34. Nobody will touch it but me. I have too many issues lol.
    1 point
  35. 1965 Cadillac DeVille Convertible On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Cadillac-DeVille/133349174895?
    1 point
  36. I would bet replace the compressor and shocks= be happy for 20 more years😁. Has worked wonders for me.
    1 point
  37. @Pelinaca1 First off, I had a 91 4.9, the alternator will NOT keep the engine running, if the battery is bad, I was in Bay Terrace, Queens and had a battery go bad and as soon as I hit the gas, the engine would stall as the alternator alone does not have the current capacity to drive the coils. So changing the alternator was unnecessary. In addition, never try to charge a dead battery with an alternator, charge the battery outside the car. Jumping a dead battery and expecting the alternator to charge it whilst running the engine will overheat and damage the alternator quickly.
    1 point
  38. The lights on the headliner are switched on and off by pushing the textured portion of the lens. The exact symptoms you are experiencing are outlined in the service manual: All courtesy lamps and roof rail lamps stay ON with ignition in RUN or 10 minutes with the key off. The information below is from the 1993 shop manual - your car might be slightly different since it is a 1995 but I think the main differences were in the engine and transmission. Check: Circuits 156, 157, 158 and 159 for a short to ground. Also check for shorted front door key tamper and rear deck lid tamper switc
    1 point
  39. I agree with Logan's reply above, occasional downshifting to gain control without overheating the brakes is not going to hurt the transmission. Think about it the torque created from a stand still pulling away from the curb. The downshift causes the engine to put a drag on the forward motion increasing the RPM. I would be very careful of 2 things however, 1) be careful that the downshift does not push the rpm up so high that it goes into redline floating the valves causing damage and 2) on wet or slick ground too much engine braking may cause a skid something very easy to do with a manual
    1 point
  40. Recent injury kinda put this project on the back burner. Old Acer laptop is now setup with the GM MDI manager software. So then wireless GM GDS2 diagnostics from home network (using ACDelco 3 day subscription) to laptop in garage.....then wireless from laptop to the MDI 2 in the car 30 feet away....it does work. Lots of BCM codes. Equinox main problems were the wipers and washer would cycle on at key on.....4 way flashers were coming on 30 minutes after key off. Both go thru the BCM. Equinox is fixed with a new BCM. Ended up having local GM shop program the new BC
    1 point
  41. Pump is in and all’s well for now. Thanks.😉😁
    1 point
  42. LOL. I grew up in NY. Moved here when I was 39. NY inspections were were something to contend with! Are they really talking about 6 month intervals? Measuring thickness of rotors and killing you for a sloppy ball joint. I always had my "inspection connection". LOL. Been down here for 23 years. Probably as hard to beat the system up there as here now-a-days. Computers. The demise of us all. So I just think I found the cause of my cars' deteriorating condition. Just got home, so no work tonight but a co-worker noticed this today, in pics I took last night. I totally missed it.
    1 point
  43. Ok. Before I install them I will try and post some detailed pictures and specs for them. That wont be til next year though
    1 point
  44. OK Folks - For the benefit of anybody looking... I took things apart and cleaned the throttle body until it and the butterflies were shiny beautiful. Got as much inside as possible. I used throttle body cleaner. If I had bought 2 cans I probably would have had a party and used it all. Maybe it was just the fumes. LOL. Then I disconnected every electrical connection I could find, including the TPS connector. Cleaned both halves of each with Electrical contact cleaner. (good old Tri-chlor) Good stuff. Nothing organic remains after a bath in that. Put it together and test
    1 point
  45. KHE, after four days with this problem you hit the nail on the ahead. I disconnected the fuel line between the in-line filter and the TBI. Fuel is flowing out of the in-line filter just fine. So I blew on the line going to the TBI and it felt like there was a little if not a lot of restriction, this was done with the fuel line in the TBI disconnected. So I tried blowing back the other way from the TBI towards the in-line filter. It felt like something gave a little and the back pressure wasn't as bad. So I reconnected the line at the in-line filter. I then stuck a hose on the line at the TBI e
    1 point
  46. Dadillac

    freeze plugs

    If there is coolant leaking from the bolt, then just tightening will not be sufficient. The lower bolts must protrude into the water jacket, and must be sealed before installing. The sealant must have worn away (very odd and extremely rare) and the coolant is forcing its way up the threads. A quick fix (but not a professional one) would be to remove the bolt, use the appropriate sealer (permatex must have one) and reinstall the bolt torqued to spec. Just remember that most head bolts (not 100% sure with the 4.9) are torque to yield bolts. Meaning that they stretch a little to keep the proper t
    1 point
  47. Well.. finally got the tips welded on and snapped a few pics. These mufflers are Dynomax Super Turbos, 2-1/4" in-out. These are the shorter 14" body due to some length constraints I had with the longer than OEM tips I married them to. I bought the tips on Ebay, but found out later I could have bought them online for much less. (live and learn) I put on the mufflers myself, and had a local garage weld on the tips. He used all stainless clamps, hangers and adapters for just $40! For those of you wondering, these style "resonated" tips do actually tone down the noise of louder mufflers some.
    1 point


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