Leaderboard

I did the ring cleaning procedure in a '97 STS I used to have. There is no need for the Kent Moore tool. The key is to let the top engine cleaner sit in the cylinders as long as possible. It took me a couple of days - jacked up the rear of the car as high as I could to get the rear cylinders closer to level. Poured in the TEC through the spark plug holes. Let it sit for 24 hours, then lowered the rear and jacked up the front of the car, repeated the TEC injection and let it sit for another 24 hours. Once the fronts were done, I used a MityVac vacuum pump to such as much of the TEC out of the cylinders as I could. I disabled the ignition and with all eight spark plugs removed, cranked the engine until the TEC quit spewing out of the spark plug holes. Next, change the engine oil as it will have a fair amount of TEC in it that seeps past the rings. Start the engine and go for a drive. Hammer it and it will smoke like crazy for a few miles until all the TEC burns off. Then change the oil again after a couple hundred miles. That procedure seemed to reduce the oil consumption but it's been so long ago I can't really remember. The TEC is not cheap and you'll need several containers of it to do the job. The Rotella 10W-30 is a great oil for these engines. I do not miss the pre-2000 Northstars with respect to oil consumption. I have a 2004 Deville and a 2005 Deville and it is very rare to have to add any oil between oil changes.

Thanks for the information !!!! This website is the best !!!!

Just found the Hot Rod article... Many more pictures and details!👍 https://www.hotrod.com/articles/twin-turbo-tucker-replica-fabricated-rob-ida/

It was the magnet that held the rod for the shift module. It somehow wore itself into about 4 pieces so because gm made the rod bending up, without the magnet it of course fell right out. Don't know why it wasn't bent the other way then no magnet would have even been necessary but im not a gm engineer. Anyhow guys thanks for the help. All fixed.

You need to retract the hydraulic tensioners by moving the levers and compress the end. Then place a small nail in the hole on the levers to keep the tensioners retracted. Turn the crank until the timing marks on the crank and intermediate sprocket are pointing at each other. It may take up to seven turns of the crank to get them to line up. Lock the crankshaft in place. Loosen the bolts retaining the cam sprockets. Set the cams with the timing marks 90 degrees to the head surface. Use a small machinist's square to help you get it to 90 degrees. Install the cam timing chains in the proper order as called out in the shop manual - remember LH and RH designation is with the engine in a longitudnal position (as in a RWD car) and viewed from the driver's seat. Looking at the timing chains, it will be opposite. When installing the chains, you'll need to remove the sprocket to get the chain over the sprocket, then bolt up the sprocket. Leave the slack in the chain to interface with the tensioner. The opposite side should be taut. I was going to upload a picture but I don't see that as an option on the editor.