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  1. 3 points
    Göran W

    I need help.......

    Ok. Like this?
  2. 3 points
    Bruce Nunnally

    1956 Cadillac drawing

    Link; https://plus.google.com/113969460069344266731/posts/i4WipmeZqrf
  3. 2 points
    BodybyFisher

    Remember me?

    @Göran W Ok so I called the following with no luck Www.kanter.com Www.ecklers.com Www.NPDLINK.com Then I called these folks in florida, Convertible Tops Specialist, Inc, they had an ad in Hemmings Motor News, their webpage is http://www.topsdown.com and spoke to Heather. She gets lots of calls for this part and said it does not exist. The part is called a window sweep. Go to their web page and on the left under browse click, weatherstrip-convertible, then click, window sweeps/dew wipes and window channels. In there are many universal window sweeps sold by the foot, you will need to pull yours out and do some measuring and try to match something up. I think that is the best that can be done. Heather said you can email her, call etc. And she said they do ship internationally. I hope this helps you
  4. 2 points
    rockfangd

    TPS and ICM Question

    CADILLAC ALLANTE 1993 CADILLAC DEVILLE 1994-1999 CADILLAC ELDORADO 1993-1999 CADILLAC SEVILLE 1993-1999 OLDSMOBILE AURORA 1995-1999
  5. 2 points
    winterset

    My DeVille Got Hit

    Sorry this happened to your car. you might have to put your boxing mitts on to fight with the insurance company, but believe me when I tell you that paint technology, and color matching and blending has come a long way. Your initial check from the insurance will be a lowball figure. bringing it to the right restoration/ custom paint shop will help. The shop will dictate how to properly repair the vehicle. Google around to see a local shop that specializes in custom paint, and see how they can help. GOOD LUCK
  6. 2 points
    Logan

    2014 ATS With a CVT (drive system)

    MMMmmm....hang on.....pretty sure it was GM that had the huge fire in 1953. http://www.autotran.us/TheGreatHydraMaticFire.html There are one or two current transmissions that GM and Ford developed together for cost savings. Would have to go look it up.
  7. 2 points
    barczy01

    electrical gremlin. 97 D'elegance

    Check the connector in the fuse block underneath the cover. C101. Have the car running and wiggle the connector. I have had a broken terminal on a couple of those . Disconnect the connector and check for corrosion.
  8. 2 points
    Hmmmm, I think I heard that somewhere before.......... Head - Bolts - Expansion - Contraction ...... Thanks BBF for bringing the point to life
  9. 2 points
    rockfangd

    Idle relearn

    Welcome To Caddyinfo. You know I am not sure. It was over 4 years ago. I have never had it happen before but that is what the dealer said was wrong. I have to be honest it should be pretty easy to make sure it is installed properly. Next time I go to do one (Just bought another Deville) I will post a picture of it both the right way and a possible wrong way if there is one. Thank you for taking the time to read some threads, You can learn quite a bit
  10. 2 points
    Btw 75 miles in texas will take you 15 minutes to get there
  11. 2 points
    And it won't sell (due to the price), and it will be dropped in short order.
  12. 2 points
    JohnnyG

    First oil change advise...

    Jim, I agree with the first part of this comment. A lot of people forget about the one year limit on oil. Of course that statement doesn't include my Volt, which states 2 years. Unfortunately, I have never witnessed an OLM going to "0" after one year. Yes, I realize that it's also supposed to track time as well as the many other factors that impact oil life, but I've taken all of my cars past one year and have not seen it drop. As for my two cents worth on oil recommendations, you can't tell if an oil is bad by looking at it. If it "looks dirty" you will only be changing it for aesthetic reasons. All motor oils are generally made to be backward compatible. The fact that ZZDP levels were reduced means very little since those additives were replaced with boron or othe A/W compounds that do just as good a job. I'd use a modern synthetic of the proper grade (10W-30) in this car and never look back. The most important thing about an oil change on this year car has been overlooked in our replies, and that is to NOT overfill the crankcase. This car will hold 7.5 quarts with an oil filter replacement, but will run perfectly fine forever on 5 quarts. Do not fill the level to the FULL mark on the dipstick, but keep it about 1/4" down.
  13. 2 points
    the gold2

    Eldorado Power !

    Nice http://www.youtube.com/embed/M6AUatsoEi8?feature=player_detailpage
  14. 2 points
    I finished up about an hour ago and have been testing the car. The torque converter locks up, the mpg is in the 25-27 range and NO codes are stored! I forget who had the signature, "Happiness is a Cadillac with no codes." but I'm going to use the saying! I am so glad to be done with this project...
  15. 1 point
    What year ? 06-11 they changed the waterpump design an removing the entire pump housing ! It’s bolted to the back side .
  16. 1 point
    Good morning!! Need a RH Rear Fender Body Side Molding for 1973 Cadillac Coupe deVille. Any help would really be appreciated.
  17. 1 point
    rockfangd

    04 Cadillac deville P0016

    Unfortunately that code is not stating that the cam sensor is not working but rather that what it is showing does not match what it should be. In some cases it can be sensor failure. But typically it should have a code related to it. Best of luck to both of you.
  18. 1 point
    winterset

    My 1996 LED taillight conversion

    Because I like the bold look of LED indicators , I decided to convert my rear turn and brake bulbs, and I thought I would give some tips for anyone thinking the same. first is that you should purchase the color LED that fits the color of the lens. In my case, my directional bulbs are red, along with my brake bulbs, so I purchased 4 red LED's. To avoid hyper flash (LED's draw less current, so the flasher blinks fast like it does when a bulb is burned out) - at first I thought to install 1 resistor for each bulb. In my case, I replaced 4 bulbs, so I would need 4 resistors wired in to the tail light harness. I didn't want to cut or splice wires, so I thought to plug them in to the trailer wire socket that is located inside the spare tire housing. I decided to rather buy the blinker module made specifically for LED's. I simply unplug the original located under the dash, and replaced it with this smaller $2.50 LED compatible one I bought in eBay. Now my brake bulbs and my rear flashers blink nice and slow, bold red with no warm up and cool down delay. I must say that the rear is a little brighter at night, and I am still waiting for my bottom red 194 bulb that should be here any day. I accidentally ordered a white bulb, and it is so bright, that it makes the lens look washed out red. I currently have an incadescent bulb in there now, but it is inherently dim, and the tail fin is not as red at the bottom as it would be with a bright red LED. i also added 2 bulbs to my 3rd brake lamp inside the rear deck. didnt know it was possible to make my old '96 scream Cadillac any louder than what it had, but it does! - and it does from 1/4 a mile behind me too!
  19. 1 point
    No word from Jake yet, meanwhile I have an important question for you all...
  20. 1 point
    Jeffery

    Temp jumps

    wanted to update turned to be computer was bad thanks for all the help
  21. 1 point
    Yes, it is $400 fully assembled with springs, valves and cams, but to be clear that is for each head. These are NEW heads. You will need to contact Jake at www.northstarperformance.com he will quote shipping, he asked me to direct you to his site. I will link Jake to this thread, so he sees the history and your status. I had a text chat with him so he is aware. You will need to inform him of whether your engine is a VIN 9 or VIN Y. I hope this works out for the best for you, Mike
  22. 1 point
    KHE

    P0741 in early stages

    My P0741 started about 5-6 years before I replaced the trans. It was very intermittent at first but the last year or so before I changed the trans., it was setting constantly - I'd clear it and it would set again quickly. Draining the fluid and cleaning the screens will make the noise go away temporarily but it will NOT make the P0741 code go away. The problem is the seals in the torque converter apply circuit are worn and are allowing the torque converter to slip (and generate heat which destroys the internal clutches). You should also disconnect the trans. return line from the radiator and purge the fluid.
  23. 1 point
    airmike

    new ats-v

    Bruce, I have washed the car a couple times now since applying the Zaino. I can't see a difference to tell the truth. If washed at the car wash maybe, but i haven't been there yet, only at home with sponge etc.. I am impressed with the paint results though. It is easier to clean than any other car I have had, so I credit the Zaino for that. Still need to wipe it down to keep water spots off. I think I am going to go for the blow drier one of these days, rather than wiping. I don't trust using a leaf blower, because there is no filter and anything could get blown through it. I would like to know someone that uses one to try it and see the results, but don't know anyone to test from.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Logan

    2007 cadillac dts 4.6 y

    To me....the bolts have the appearance of being GM oem bolts. Kind of a hard look to get aftermarket. They certainly do not appear to be of Home Depot or NAPA type level quality. It looks as if all 3 were getting loose....witness marks show some rubbing on the head of the bolts...maybe the one failed bolt finally was snagged by the backside of the gear. I see no evidence of any thread locker on the bolts at all. The original threads certainly must have some damage. Yeah...maybe...maybe Time-Serts will work. Likely the Kent Moore J-42385-200 kit has the tooling to do it. Surely the valves are bent. Both heads will have to come off to fix this one. If you were in the US...I would suggest a used engine might be a more reliable solution to fixing this one. Update.....Time-Sert is great stuff for a stripped thread....not so great for what is likely some oblong wobbled holes. I did attach a pic of some of the Time-Sert rental stuff I have here. These M10 tools are from the Kent Moore J-42385-200 kit. Drill...counter-bore...tap...driver. And a M10 Time-Sert on the driver tool.
  26. 1 point
    I see a few of these on ebay and ordered some My thinking is to send them out to our mechanic participants, and to others as rewards for repair reports. What do you think?
  27. 1 point
    OldCadTech

    92 eldorado help

    The service manual has a power and ground location section. I believe the ground you are referring to is G103 which is in two possible locations depending on vin break point.
  28. 1 point
    The front covers are not hard to do, the hard part of the job is getting the front of the engine oil pan resealed. You will need a puller to remove the crank pulley I would recommend removing the oil pan for someone that hasn't done a front cover before. There are 4 bolts that go into the front cover at the front of the oil pan, the gasket at the front of the pan has metal "washers" to prevent over-tightening, these are removed if the oil pan is left in place when the front cover is removed. The oil pan is an easy but albeit messy job to do at home. Cleaning the old gasket off the engine block is the biggest challenge, esp at the rear main as there are 2 small studs for the pan nuts, sometimes the studs come out when the nuts are removed, that is a good thing if that happens I remove them anyway if I can get them out without a lot of effort, if they don't come out easily leave them in and clean around them. If the front cover is okay be SURE to stick the inlet gasket to the back of the cover so it can NOT move.it is a bit of a balancing act to get the inlet bolts started through the w-pump. Patience is required
  29. 1 point
    OldCadTech

    1998 Seville STS - B3055

    Jim was right I had my money on the ignition switch
  30. 1 point
    Logan

    2009 STS power window and locks

    Hmmm.....I would try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Just resetting the system can sometimes bring stuff back to life. Who would of thought....computer controlled windows... Another possibility may be broken wires in the door flex loom. The Deville rear windows used to quit because of broken wires in the loom. The attached pic is just a generic example.
  31. 1 point
    Cadillac Jim

    Battery no charge

    It's possible that you don't have enough charge on your AGM for the regulator or PCM to make sense of what it sees. If it puts, say, 50 Amps into the battery but does not see a voltage rise, it could be setting the OBD code (and thus turning on the MIL) when there is no problem. The issue here is that it may stop trying to charge. I would top off the battery with a slow charger and try again. After 30+ years with a slow charger that I bought from JC Penney Auto (selenium rectifiers!), I bought a new one from Amazon for $45. It detects and protects against reverse connections, tests and adjusts for 6 Volts or 12 Volts, and also for AGM/Regular and small/auto battery sizes. If your charger can't handle the AGM charge rate, I suggest that you get one of these later model ones that deals with AGM. As you know, the regulator is a ceramic-case module inside the alternator, so if it is blown, you will need an alternator rebuild kit to get another.
  32. 1 point
    KHE

    Help with 02 DTS heater core

    I would try backflushing it with a garden hose - You won't be able to do any damage that way and you really don't have anything to lose. It is worth a shot at getting the core unuplugged vs. tearing the dash all apart. The thought of squeaks and rattles after tearing into a dash would concern me.
  33. 1 point
    KHE

    '04 Deville Loosing its Reliabilty?

    Yes but 70% of the profits from foreign makes go back to a foreign country vs. the USA.
  34. 1 point
    Yes, you should flush your system, because a lot stays behind if you just drain it. Refill with half your car's coolant capacity according to the owner's manual and top it off with distilled water, then check to make sure that it is between 50% and 70% antifreeze. Water/antifreeze mix has its best freezing point, AND boiling point, between 50% and 70% antifreeze. Outside that range, both suffer. If the boiling point comes down, steam pockets cab form in the head and the bubbles can confuse the thermostat and cause overheating.
  35. 1 point
    Logan

    Ignition Coil Purchase

    A word about Rock Auto and Delphi... I ordered some Delphi O2 sensors from Rock Auto. They showed up....they were Bosch O2 sensors with a 'Delphi' sticker on the baggie.
  36. 1 point
    winterset

    PCM replacement

    It's the aluminum electrolytic capacitors i worry about. Keep the car out of extreme heat as best you can. It's expected that these things fail as they get old. All my capacitors are 19 years old, and i'm not going to loose sleep over it, as i have a good eye to visually detect failures, and i am very good with a soldering gun.
  37. 1 point
    Bruce Nunnally

    The Great Gatsby

    Almost warm enough to get the Roadster out. Got it out and around the block tonight to start getting ready for warm weather. Left the battery tender overnight and it went green by this morning, so the battery is 'saved' after being drained over the winter.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    2008 DTS Can anyone enlighten me on replacing the pressure line from the power steering pump to the rack. It's spraying in 3 different directions. I've read that the engine craddle needs to be dropped 3". Is that accurate?
  40. 1 point
    Texas Jim

    00 Seville SLS runs hot after 1 hour

    If the reservoir stays cold, the purge line is stopped up. Clear the blockage and the overheating problem may go away.
  41. 1 point
    The brakes are probably dragging. You may be able to clean them up without doing a full brake job. The oldest KBB goes is 1994 models, six years newer than your car. The same model goes for $2K as a 1994 model. I did use the extremely low mileage in the online wizard on kbb.com. The extras are worth something to the right buyer. The blistered chrome wheels are a problem. You can probably get an idea of what replacing them would cost by browsing Cardio-Doc on Wheels; see the Caddyinfo Vendor section. Your last sentence seems a bit contradictory. You will sell it for peanuts but you want to be able to drive it occasionally? That *has* to be to a close relative. If I bought an older, low-mileage car as a project, or for an inexpensive daily driver for a college kid, I wouldn't want others driving it, even the previous owner. If you want to drive it a couple of weeks a year, check out the tires, then change the oil, coolant, and spark plugs, service the transmission, drive a tank of gas through it, check out the brakes and power steering, and just keep it in the garage. Use synthetic oil if you aren't going to put enough miles on it to change it for a year or more between changes.
  42. 1 point
    Sucsess!! Bought the PCM from the same car as the gauge cluster and installed it, Engine fired fight up! Car runs and drives great. the only lights on are the service engine soon and the airbag light. if i cycle it through 20 ignition cycles it should reset the PCM and read the information from car correct?. or do i need to do the 30 Min re learn?. And Thank everyone for all the help. this was a lesson learned for me!.the only thing that sux is the car originally had 85k miles and the new cluster shows 177x.. but I have paper work showing the true milage.. and the old parts. so the next owner can live with it, or go through the re programming..
  43. 1 point
    It was an easy fix.... I traded the 2006 Performance Sedan for a 2011 White Diamond, DTS Platinum. ... LOL LOL We had to drive 175 miles west of Fort Worth to get it. 2011 Platinum models are very very hard to find in this area and when one does come up for sale, it is gone QUICK. I called the sales manager and told him we were on the way to look at it and he promised to hold it till we got there. After reading a "LOT" of stuff about Mag Ride on several other forums including late model Corvette forums and late model Escalade forums, (which use the same MAG RIDE system)... my conclusion was the shocks had been going bad for quite some time, but slowly... and I had become accustomed to the progressive rougher ride. It was gonna cost me about $1000 bucks to fix it right... And if the back shocks are now bad, how long till the front struts will need replacing?? The front struts are even more expensive than the rear shocks. The Air Conditioned seats quit working a few weeks ago... It needed the computer module and wiring harness connector underneath the passengers seat replaced. That means completely removing the passengers seat, replacing the module, splicing all the wires from the new connector to the existing wires and then replacing everything. That's another $800 bucks. A little while back, the speaker quit working in the drivers side rear door. I replaced the speaker with a new one, but it still didn't work. That means there is a problem in the wiring or one channel in the AMP is bad... either way it was going to cost some fairly serious money to fix properly. I decided that if I could find a nice Platinum, and if I could get a halfway decent price for the 2006 I would just put the money I would spend fixing the 2006 towards buying the 2011. So...... that's what I did yesterday afternoon. Love it so far.... It has even more bells and whistles then the 2006 did. Now it's RTFM time... Sorry about writing a book...
  44. 1 point
    Reading codes: http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html Codes for your car: see link in my signature block for my list in an Excel file.
  45. 1 point
    I have posted my Duke SS100 for sale on Craig's List. http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/4508076292.html 1939 Jaguar Replica - $14500 (Plano) condition: good 1939 Jaguar Replica odometer: 16100 automatic transmission title : clean For Sale: Classic Roadsters, LTD Duke SS100 Roadster (kit car / replica). Full structural steel frame, rustproof fiberglass body. Front engine, rear-wheel drive automatic convertible. Originally produced by Classic Roadsters, LTD in Fargo, North Dakota, the Duke SS 100 is a recreation of the 1939 Jaguar SS 100. This Duke SS 100 is powered by a 1770 CC Toyota 3TC inline four cylinder engine circa 1981, offering reliable power with the option for future hot-rodding, along with a 3-speed Toyota Automatic transmission. Soft top with side curtains, but I don't take it out in the rain. Radio with CD player. Garaged. This is not a VW based kit, but rather a custom chassis and body by Classic Roadsters, Ltd that uses Ford Mustang II components for much of the suspension. Should be very easy to work on, get parts for, and maintain. Some people think this looks like an MGTD, or a Morgan, classic roadster, but it would be more proper to say that all three bear some likeness to a classic 1930s car, the Jaguar SS100. With the Duke SS100 however, you can afford to drive and enjoy the car, with a reliable (relatively) modern 4 cylinder engine and modern running gear. The Good: newly refreshed front suspension & springs; newly refreshed rear suspension. Brand new wire wheels and tires (including dual spares). MSD 6AL ignition and blaster coil. Starts, runs smoothly. Gets a lot of attention when out for a drive. Recent new Weber 32/36 carburetor. Current, clean title and inspection in Texas as a 1939 Jaguar Replica; driven on sunny days for enjoyment. The Bad: Fuel gauge works, but wants a new sender. Paint is good for a 1985 (?) model, but not perfect. Why am I selling? I am a Cadillac guy, and want to get a Cadillac for my weekend car. Willing to consider Cadillac convertible trades. No rush, and I am still enjoying it. If it does sell then I will shop for a classic Cadillac convertible -- thinking 1968-1970 Cadillac Deville Convertible but we'll see.
  46. 1 point
    Not a problem - No need to go underneath the car - open the hood and look between the master cylinder reservoir and the EGR valve (then look straight doen) and you'll see the shift cable.
  47. 1 point
    Clear the code, and see if it appears immediately. There resistance might be ok now, but when driving, a short condition occurs. Sometimes just turning the wheel triggers a fault.
  48. 1 point
    Bruce Nunnally

    Test Drive: Twin-Turbo AWD XTS

    Long hood and short rear overhang with minimal storage, or room for 4 passengers and a large trunk? Sporty driving circa 1939 vs 2014 2014 Cadillac XTS VSport Platinum and 1939 Jaguar SS100 Replica together
  49. 1 point
    I noticed the check engine light on the other day in my wifes 2004 Deville. So I did the right thing and checked the codes the other day while I had it out. There were a few history codes that I knew what they were but there was a current P0102 code. After a few days I finally remembered to get back on here and find out what the code was. It was low voltage to the maf sensor. I knew where that sensor was so I popped the hood and in no time flat I found the problem, it was unplugged. By the position of the plug I know that it did not just fall off, it had been unplugged and set up out of the way. I could not for the life of me figure out how the plug got where it was. I am the one who only works on it but I was at a loss. Then it hit me, about a month back I had to change the headlight bulb and in trying to get to the back of the headlight I took the air box out, then after the airbox was out of the way I discovered that I still could not get to the headlight bulb. So I put everything back together and had to look at the owners manual to see how to get to the PITA headlight bulb. So when I put it back together I must have overlooked the maf sensor plug. Stupid, stupid, stupid. My wife had been driving it all this time with the CEL on and never got around to telling me something was wrong. Today I fixed it though, I plugged it back in. Easiest fix in a long time.
  50. 1 point
    mike5514

    temp readout dic

    Yes the no. for average speed is 8 not 6. To correct my first post you ADD 64 to the number that is already there, to remove a item from the ipc you subtract a code no. to the number already there. Below are the codes you can add or delete. coolant temp 64 batt. volts 32 engine rpm 16 average speed 8 vehicle speed 4 fuel used 2 instant fuel economy 1 total 127 For some reason I dont get rpm on my driver information center so Im going out this morning and add or subtract codes. The range of numbers in the ipc override option e so5 is (0 to 225). Today I will mess with the numbers and see if i can get the rpm readout. I dont want the vehicle speed (4) so I will subtract it from the number already there (127). Think I might put in 200 and see what happens, the more i use this the more confident I get. Last night went to our granddaughters high school graduation had a good time, boy time flies. Would like to edit my previous posts, should have got the book out first. Although the book does not explain how to add the numbers it sure helped how to figure it out. My mistake was assuming you lock in code numbers one at a time. I get the no handset warning on my dic, so today i will go into ipc override option c (ip so3) and remove it. Looking forward to the indy 500 today. Have a good Holiday weekend.Mike