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  1. 5 points
    Jan Olsson

    BBF we miss you.

    I miss BBF's posts. All that committed energy and all that knowledge. I'm sure that I'm not alone!
  2. 4 points
    Our lovely German host Sarah Sauer takes the 2015 Porsche Panamera S E-Hybrid for a spin. The Porsche Panamera S E-Hybrid is powered by a 3.0 liter V6 engine making 333 horsepower and than there's an electric-motor that makes 95 horsepower with a total output of 416 horsepower. Together with an 8-speed automatic transmission 0 to 60 mph will come in 5.2 seconds with a top speed of 167 mph. But is it worth the $99,000 price tag? Let's find out! With camera men Jan Gleitsmann and Jens Stratmann of Ausfahrt.tv!
  3. 3 points
    two2go

    No more Jaguar. It was fun.

    Classic Roadsters Duke Jaguar SS-100 Replica, Epilogue. I don't know if anyone sees or is following this part of the forum any more, but I thought I would post a final report of my Jaguar ownership experience after reviewing my original thread. On May 22, 2019, I helped load my Jaguar onto a transport trailer to be shipped to its new owner in Phoenix. After six years of ownership that featured lots of fun driving, a few breakdowns, quite a bit of maintenance education and work, we decided we had satisfied our Brit roadster yen and wanted the garage space back. A Craigslist ad brought me a willing buyer with cash. As an investment, the Jaguar was a loser, but considering the money we put into it overall, probably equivalent to the depreciation on any vehicle. I documented most of the work that was done to make the Jag a reliable and attractive car in my first thread. At the end, it was in fact very reliable. The last recurring problems turned out to be fuel system issues that were working together to be hard to diagnose--carburetor and fuel pump. The rebuilt carb I installed was not internally calibrated quite right, including wrong jets, so a professional rebuild of the rebuilt solved one part of the equation. But it was still stalling. That turned out to be due to bad fuel pumps. The Duke was built with a non-stock electric fuel pump mounted just below the tank. The original and first replacement pumps were overheating and cutting out. My mechanic finally installed a racing-duty pump which totally solved the stalling problem. Like folks say about boats, it was a happy day when we bought the Jaguar, and a happy day when we sold it. No regrets. Loved the experience and even learning from the problems. And over 4,000 miles of joyriding. And so we move on. I hope folks who own, or think about owning or have interest in replica cars, and the Duke model particularly, find something of interest or encouragement in what I have shared. And to whoever owns our Jaguar now, and wherever they may be, happy driving!
  4. 3 points
    Jsblkram

    Jsblkram

    Fantastic !!!!!!! Replaced alternator with the AC Delco from RockAuto. Battery is charging just fine. Took some time but with the help from u guys it is now back on the road. Many, many thanks for the info to help me figure this out. Thank u !!!!!!!!
  5. 3 points
    Lance, More than likely the cylinder walls and the rings are a little rusty. Is it on an engine stand? Does it move slightly or is it locked solid? Pull the spark-plugs if there were any installed, or the plastic caps and with an oil squirt can, squirt about a spoon full of engine oil in each cylinder and let it sit for about an hour. Try turning/rocking the crankshaft, if it won't move let it sit overnight and try again. If still no movement rotate the engine assembly so that one bank of cylinders is vertical, let it sit for an hour or so and then turn the engine so the other bank is vertical. Rinse & Repeat as needed. Once it starts moving, simply keep working it back and forth until you start getting complete revolutions, then you can go in the direction of normal rotation, CW if IRC
  6. 3 points
    Well I have to say I really enjoy this site and hope it does not hook up with any other Caddy sites I have gotten lots of good info from my 1993 DEVILLE and I actually have a service light on with a code I need to address when I get some more time. I especially enjoy the respect given here along with good solid INFO thanks Bruce for a great place foe Caddy owners
  7. 3 points
    Cowpie

    Oil for '07 Cadillac STS

    To some degree I would concur, at least on the heavier viscosities. But not a 10w30? Quiz question: what is the kinematic viscosity at 100c (read that as the operating temperature of the engine) of a 5w30 vs a 10w30? Answer: The same! At operating temperature, 0w30, 5w30, and 10w30 all have the same kinematic viscosity of around 10.5 to 10.9. The only difference between them is the winter cold flow rating, which is what the "w' stands for. And that has more to do with cold starting than running the engine. The "w" is not a oil weight rating but a cold flow rating. Go to the SAE website and they will confirm this. And even then, unless one is dealing with some serious nasty cold at start up, it is not really an issue. Michigan gets cold, but not real nasty cold except in the U.P. (yes, I travel Wisconsin, Minnesota, Michigan, etc frequently year round). A 10w30 full synthetic generally will have a -40F to -45F cold flow pour point along with a rated cold crank start rating of -25F to -30F. So unless one is in Calgary, MT, ND, or Fairbanks, AK type of weather, a 10w30 will be fine. For those like me, that the car resides in a heated garage when not in use, a 10w30 will work just fine year round. It rarely gets below -20F in my area in Central Iowa. I lived outside of Fairbanks, AK for 10 years and used 10w30 conventional with no problems. But then, we were smart up there... we had block heaters, oil pan heaters, and electric battery blankets that all got plugged in when the vehicles were at home. That all being said, everything from my Yamaha portable generator on up thru my class 8 commercial trucks all get 10w30 oil. Different types, but still 10w30. My 2015 2500HD, my 2006 CTS, my JD zero turn mower, my JD 825i Gator, my ag tractor, my 2013 Freightliner semi trucks. 10w30 has a lower volatility rating (NOACK vaporization rate) than either 0w30 or 5w30, it also uses less viscosity improvers which can shear under extreme pressure, and it maintains a more level viscosity rating over the entire oil change interval. Many full synthetic 10w30 oils are actually straight 30w oils, but qualify due to their cold flow rating as 10w30. I have long since become very fond of 10w30 oils for all these reasons. And most full synthetic 10w30 oil will meet GM 4718M and 6094M specs, which are the basis of what dexos1 is built upon. The dexos1 spec just specifies a 5w30 minimum to cover all the bases of what most folks deal with in N. America. In some ways, it is not even as good at ILSAC GF-5 rating, which has a better ethanol emulsification spec than dexos1. Which seems strange, since GM is all over the idea of using ethanol.
  8. 3 points
    I am pleased to announce that I, ME, MY, have something to contribute, besides a question.... I went to the local Cadillac dealership (Vic Alfonso- Portland, Or.) that originally sold my baby in 2002 and while ordering some touch-up paint (just in case), I asked the counterman, Gary, if it was possible to have a print out of the original invoice, or what ever they called it, for my records. "Sure, all I need is the VIN number." Gary replied. "DONE!" I responded....and 5 minutes later I left the lot with the read-out. Of course, this might have happened for a couple of reasons, not the least of which was my disarming charm, or my gorgeous wife batting her baby blues, or the fact that it originally was sold on that lot...never-the-less, I've answered my own question. Hope this helps others who would like a copy of their ride for their files.
  9. 3 points
    Logan

    2007 DTS

    From the GM DVD manual...2007 DTS... A drain trough encircles the sliding window panel and leads to the drain hoses. The drain hoses are located at each corner of the sunroof module assembly. The two front drain hoses route down the windshield pillars. The two rear drain hoses route down the rear sail and the quarter panels. If you encounter a wet headliner or other water leak, inspect the following areas for the source of the leak: • The windshield • The rear window Verify that the drainage system is not plugged or restricted. Use the following procedure: Using a one pint container, pour water into the drain trough with the sunroof window open. Inspect for water drainage through the drain hoses exiting the wheel house areas. If the water flow is restricted, use a low volume of compressed air in order to clear the drain system. Do not blow the drain hose away from the housing drain spout. Retest the system. If water drips from the headliner above the door, lower the headliner as required in order to inspect for a proper drain tube connection. If necessary, install new tie wraps onto the drain spouts of the sunroof module assembly.
  10. 3 points
    drchamp

    Faltering acceleration

    First I'd like to thank everybody on this board for the help I received with this problem. I ended up replacing the complete fuel line from tank to engine compartment metal tubing. I also dropped in an AC Delco fuel pump. Car started to run like a champ so I took it out for a test drive. I made it about 15 to 25 yards and the engine died. Checked the fuel pump and I could not hear it running. So I had a friend drive and slowly poured fuel into the carburetor to get it back into the yard. Dropped the tank again and found the new AC Delco pump was bound up. Like a dummy I didn't put a sock on the pickup tube. This forced me to stick my hand down in the tank and see if there was anything in their. To my surprise I found a bunch of rubber particles and black rubber dust in the tank. Then I remembered the first pump I took out had the blackest sock I had ever seen on the fuel pump. So now it's down to taking the tank off and send it out for an acid bath or just buy a new tank. I opted for buying the new tank and be done with it. So what was happening, while driving the fuel was mixing with this rubber type dust and making its way to the throttle body. Bad fuel, bad performance. I'm chalking this one up to experience and thank everybody again for the help.
  11. 3 points
    I watched the video a few times and it looks like the freeze out plug in the head is leaking, is that correct? Here are a few close ups. You will notice on one head the cam pulley is removed and in the other head there is no intake cam for locational perspective.
  12. 3 points
    Göran W

    I need help.......

    Ok. Like this?
  13. 3 points
    Bruce Nunnally

    1956 Cadillac drawing

    Link; https://plus.google.com/113969460069344266731/posts/i4WipmeZqrf
  14. 3 points
    mjkubba

    STS

    As I promised first patch of my Cadillacs photos: More to come...
  15. 3 points
    I'm pretty much talking about the body, paint and interior. Although a lot of the mechanical parts are too. Even the shocks and struts.. They do need changing though.. It took me 10 years to do it, but this is my 400th post!! WOO HOO!!
  16. 3 points
    Problem: Parking brake does not release automatically Car in question: Seville 1998 – 2004 Symptom: Parking brake applied. Engine running, transmission lever set in gear. Parking brake does not release by itself, but when parking brake pedal is pushed slightly further and then released, parking brake will release. How the mechanism works: The parking brake pedal is held down by friction of a spring wound around a cylinder. This cylinder has a toothed wheel on top of it, which engages with a toothed wheel segment connected to the parking brake pedal. If one applies the parking brake, the pedal moves and turns the cylinder against the windings of the spring which gives no friction thus no locking force. Once the pedal is no longer pushed (you take your foot away) it tries to return. The cylinder tries to spin in the opposite direction with the windings of the spring, resulting in pulling down the spring and thus locking the cylinder, the pedal is held in position. When the solenoid engages to release the parking brake (or the emergency release lever is used), the windings of the spring are pushed open. The cylinder is set free, rotetes and the pedal returns to the normal position. Reason for malfunction: The springs sticks to the cylinder, even when the tension is released. A little metal lever inside the mechanism is slightly out of shape. Remedy: Remove complete parking brake mechanism. To do this, separate the front section of the parking brake cable under the car, below the drivers seat, near the sill. Unhook parking brake cable from plastic brackets (two). Remove sound insulation panel (two screws) and knee bolster (pull down after sound insulation panel is removed). Remove sill molding (pull up carefully). Remove footrest, start with the black plastic insert (pry with a screwdriver from the top), then undo two screws. Undo three 13mm nuts holding the parking brake mechanism to the body. Pry back carpet, remove rubber grommet where parking brake cable enters the body. Move parking brake mechanism downwards until you can reach the electrical connector on top of the solenoid, seperate the connector. From under the car, depress the springs where the parking brake cable enters the body, push cable in and remove complete parking brake assembly including cable. Study mechanism, look from the pedal side into the apparatus. Locate little tin lever which operates spring (second pic). Check how much slack is evident when you operate the emergency lever. Carefully bend lever with a screwdriver or similar tool until free play is nearly gone. Test release operation by applying the pedal and using emergency release lever. Can pedal be moved back easily? See linked pictures: Put everything back together in reverse order. Time needed: 2 hours (relaxed working) Tools needed: Set of screwdrivers Pliers 1/2“ ratchet set 1/4“ ratchet set Shop lamp Some patience Hoist helpful, but not mandatory. Parking brake cable can be worked on lying on the ground by the drivers side of the car. Please bear in mind that I'm no native english speaker, in case there are spelling mistakes.
  17. 2 points
    EUREKA!!!!! I FOUND THE PROBLEM!! The throttle cable bracket was putting too much tension on the cruise control trolling and throttle cables. A couple taps with a hammer to give it some slack and it idles and revs properly.
  18. 2 points
    BodybyFisher

    Remember me?

    @Göran W Ok so I called the following with no luck Www.kanter.com Www.ecklers.com Www.NPDLINK.com Then I called these folks in florida, Convertible Tops Specialist, Inc, they had an ad in Hemmings Motor News, their webpage is http://www.topsdown.com and spoke to Heather. She gets lots of calls for this part and said it does not exist. The part is called a window sweep. Go to their web page and on the left under browse click, weatherstrip-convertible, then click, window sweeps/dew wipes and window channels. In there are many universal window sweeps sold by the foot, you will need to pull yours out and do some measuring and try to match something up. I think that is the best that can be done. Heather said you can email her, call etc. And she said they do ship internationally. I hope this helps you
  19. 2 points
    sonjaab

    Remember me?

    American Sunroof Company AmericaN Specialty Cars The company that "made/assembled" those ragtops for GM!~ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Specialty_Cars Same company that changed/adjusted its name thru the years. Those parts have a GM parts number.
  20. 2 points
    rockfangd

    TPS and ICM Question

    Sure will. We live here😁
  21. 2 points
    Logan

    Eldo engine swap

    This pretty much covers it... http://www.northstarperformance.com/interchange.php Dogbones were not used after 2000 except for Eldos....but the holes are there for the brackets. Buried in the details.....a different crankshaft in 2000....."A new crankshaft with a different reluctor wheel (crank position wheel) is used"
  22. 2 points
    I was going to ask if this was a direct injected engine the other day. Watch this video.
  23. 2 points
    Please keep us posted. I am skeptical of the top end cleaner as you did not have the issue before the repair. If you were burning oil excessively It is highly suggested, although I have not found great success in it, even after being done twice. I feel for you as I pay pretty good on a rare occasion to have someone do a job for me, Expectations are high but end result may vary. I wish you the very best
  24. 2 points
    winterset

    My DeVille Got Hit

    Sorry this happened to your car. you might have to put your boxing mitts on to fight with the insurance company, but believe me when I tell you that paint technology, and color matching and blending has come a long way. Your initial check from the insurance will be a lowball figure. bringing it to the right restoration/ custom paint shop will help. The shop will dictate how to properly repair the vehicle. Google around to see a local shop that specializes in custom paint, and see how they can help. GOOD LUCK
  25. 2 points
    This post very likely saved me $2,100 for the replacement of a timing chain. I took my 2007 CTS into the shop this morning to check out the engine light that had been on for a few weeks. When the shop called me back and told me I needed a timing chain I took to the internet and came across this site. I called GM and within 15 minutes have an appointment at the local Cadillac dealer next Monday morning for them to again diagnose and replace the timing belt under the special warranty. I am within 5 months of the time frame of the 10 year, 120,000 miles since the car was put into service. A big shout out to Logan for posting the link to the Bulletin 11340A which gave me the phone number to Cadillac. Small world, I too am in Franklin TN!
  26. 2 points
    Cadillac Jim

    Finally time for another car

    I got my 2011 CTS-V sedan (Recaros, sunroof, automatic) at about 22,000 miles in the spring of 2013. It has about 65,000 miles on it now. You are asking about zingers? I'll presume to make generalizations based on my experience as one who uses a CTS-V as a daily driver and drives it legally. Overall, it's the most reliable car that I have ever owned. Unscheduled maintenance just doesn't happen. Don't let *anyone* drive the car. Valets are OK in indoor garages, but don't let a valet drive it outdoors. Even service people at dealers may feel the need to "drive the car briskly* in "testing." Get a dashcam and leave it on when you leave it for service. Check it afterwards, and if it has been turned off, or you don't like what you see, don't go back there with your V. Some dealers look at V owners as mod-crazy guys who treat their cars as money pits, and will add service items accordingly. Make it understood that you must personally approve each service item. I had an unnecessary brake job thrown at me that way, about $2K. Tires are not a problem in terms of dollars per mile if you get good tires. Cheap tires wear quickly and most of them are just good enough so that you don't take them off for better ones. That's where the money in tire prices goes, in better tire wear, as well as better performance, better holding in the wet and cold/snow, etc. You will likely hear from non-owners about how expensive the electronic shocks/struts are. They are about 1/3 as much as those on my 1997 Eldorado Touring Coupe. Mine are fine at 65,000 miles. I have not scheduled a service for them, and don't worry about it at all. Don't beat on the car and the tires, transmission, differential, etc. will hold up fine. The car is built like a tank but you can beat it up if you try because it has, like, 600 hp at the crankshaft. With that, you can break a Humvee in ten minutes if you try. Non-dealer mechanics that are good for your V and can be trusted with it are out there in droves. I live in a far suburb of Philly and know of three in a 5-mile radius, four if you count a guy that will just buy parts from NAPA without checking with you (cheap parts!). Most dealers have never serviced a V. Use Yelp or V forums to pick a dealer for service. Yelp ratings for the CTS, XTS, etc. are no good for predicting satisfaction with a V, look for people who have had their V's serviced there for ratings. The battery is an AGM deep-discharge unit in the rear that lasts forever. Mine is original. It's not a V thing; the battery is the same as other 2011 CTS's. The CCA for the V may be more but it's only 700. The starter has a reduction gear so that's just fine. Mods don't make much sense for the street, but if you do, start with higher capacity injectors and with cooling and intercooler enhancements, even before a chip tune, because any increase in horsepower will require bigger injectors to work and will generate more heat and air flow through the intercooler. Intercooler mods alone will get you a noticeable improvement. The next step is to take the boost limit off the chip so that it gives 15 psi boost at sea level; if you don't already have the injectors and radiator for that you can harm your engine. I recommend zero mods unless you are going to be measuring times at a drag strip; I consider cars that do that project cars, not daily drivers. Cops don't bother you. Haters, on the other hand, will tailgate, etc. Local police have advised me to pull over while still moving to let haters pass but do engage or let on you notice them, and do not stop except in a safe place. I'm crabby so I keep local police on speed dial on the car phone - but I've never used it. The worst haters are psychotic yuppie women, next are older men in huge pickups with something to prove.
  27. 2 points
    KHE

    Same old story 1997 Eldorado

    When Timeserts are used, the proper installation is to install the inserts in all 20 head bolt holes in the block. The Timesert kit comes with all the necessary tools to install the inserts. You will need to purchase the additional inserts - I think 10 are included in the kit. Regardless of the method you use, you're not going to have to remove the heads again - it's stronger then when it left the factory. Even if you did have to remove a head for some reason, the head bolt would spin in the insert - the inserts are swaged and Loctited to the block.
  28. 2 points
  29. 2 points
    I'm not sure what the problem is with the original radio but here is a link to a short discussion about the 2008 CTS radio and one possible fix. It seems the best way to deal with this situation is to fix the radio.
  30. 2 points
    Nice history, video http://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/2014/11/26/video-the-story-of-the-gm-milford-proving-ground/
  31. 2 points
    BodybyFisher

    what caused backfire?

    You know, you learn something new everyday. This is the first I have heard any backfires bad enough to start a fire and here, it has happened twice! The learning never stops.
  32. 2 points
    BodybyFisher

    Vent issues. 1997 Deville

    Well I found something that is very interesting in my 96 FSM. Here are two photos from my manual. They are side by side in the manual and are a continuation of eachother This is the rightmost photo This photo is to the left of the above photo It is very interesting to note that in the second photo, you see there is a valve that controls the passenger defrost and AC.... I did not know that, its called the Passenger/Defrost - AC valve, and I believe that it is vacuum controlled, probably the reason why you didn't get a code. It looks to me like you 'may' be having 2 separate problems the drivers actuator and maybe the passenger AC/Defrost actuator? There is a way of going into the ACM DIC DATA to 'see' the commanded vs actual figures. That is what the TECH2 picks up. Ill look at my manual later to see how you get in there, I think you toggle ACM, then DATA, then you navigate to what you are trying to observe. The FSM should have that info, Ill look
  33. 2 points
    KHE

    Ac noise hot air

    HT-6/HR-6 compressor failures are extremely rare - not to say they don't fail internally but I don't think there has been such a failure reported on this forum. The ticking noise you reported coming from the compressor may be a clue to the problem. The most common failure mode of the HR series compressor is the case half seals leak due to corrosion on the ends. The low charge will disable the compressor to keep it from being damaged. What were the high and low side readings with the compressor engaged? That would be helpful in diagnosing the problem and would confirm if the compressor reed valves were intact.
  34. 2 points
    Thank you very much for the response. You were close. I believe this was the problem. I figured it out yesterday and repaired it today It was about 6 inches from the lug that goes to the maxifuse block. I cut it out and soldered in a new length with a new lug. I also replaced the ac compressor and drier. Compressor was covered in its own mess. I found the replacement engine has the original fuel rail (plastic one), that is a bummer. I have a spare intake with everything already on it. I drove the car today and so far it is ok. I forgot to mention I swapped the battery for now also. I noticed one big difference now. The voltage is at 12.6v when key is on engine off. 14.2-14.3 when running. Before it was about 11.5 koeo and 13.3 when running. Will keep posted on this. Thanks all
  35. 2 points
    Hmmmm, I think I heard that somewhere before.......... Head - Bolts - Expansion - Contraction ...... Thanks BBF for bringing the point to life
  36. 2 points
    Every few months, we should all inspect our radiator and surge tank for stress cracks and/or leaks. This is especially true on a car older than ~8 years as imo, this is the life of an aluminum and plastic radiator. Once a N* overheats (or any engine with an aluminum block or head), it's "anything goes" as far as reliability.
  37. 2 points
    airmike

    whats in a name?

    This is worth the time it takes to read. Very cool. STORY NUMBER ONE Many years ago, Al Capone virtually owned Chicago . Capone wasn't famous for anything heroic. He was notorious for enmeshing the windy city in everything from bootlegged booze and prostitution to murder. Capone had a lawyer nicknamed "Easy Eddie." He was Capone's lawyer for a good reason. Eddie was very good! In fact, Eddie's skill at legal maneuvering kept Big Al out of jail for a long time.. To show his appreciation, Capone paid him very well. Not only was the money big, but Eddie got special dividends, as well. For instance, he and his family occupied a fenced-in mansion with live-in help and all of the conveniences of the day. The estate was so large that it filled an entire Chicago City block. Eddie lived the high life of the Chicago mob and gave little consideration to the atrocity that went on around him. Eddie did have one soft spot, however. He had a son that he loved dearly. Eddie saw to it that his young son had clothes, cars, and a good education. Nothing was withheld. Price was no object.. And, despite his involvement with organized crime, Eddie even tried to teach him right from wrong. Eddie wanted his son to be a better man than he was. Yet, with all his wealth and influence, there were two things he couldn't give his son; he couldn't pass on a good name or a good example. One day, Easy Eddie reached a difficult decision. Easy Eddie wanted to rectify wrongs he had done. He decided he would go to the authorities and tell the truth about Al "Scarface" Capone, clean up his tarnished name, and offer his son some semblance of integrity. To do this, he would have to testify against The Mob, and he knew that the cost would be great. So, he testified. Within the year, Easy Eddie's life ended in a blaze of gunfire on a lonely Chicago Street . But in his eyes, he had given his son the greatest gift he had to offer, at the greatest price he could ever pay. Police removed from his pockets a rosary, a crucifix, a religious medallion, and a poem clipped from a magazine. The poem read: "The clock of life is wound but once, and no man has the power to tell just when the hands will stop, at late or early hour. Now is the only time you own. Live, love, toil with a will. Place no faith in time. For the clock may soon be still." STORY NUMBER TWO World War II produced many heroes. One such man was Lieutenant Commander Butch O'Hare. He was a fighter pilot assigned to the aircraft carrier Lexington in the South Pacific. One day his entire squadron was sent on a mission. After he was airborne, he looked at his fuel gauge and realized that someone had forgotten to top off his fuel tank. He would not have enough fuel to complete his mission and get back to his ship. His flight leader told him to return to the carrier. Reluctantly, he dropped out of formation and headed back to the fleet. As he was returning to the mother ship, he saw something that turned his blood cold; a squadron of Japanese aircraft was speeding its way toward the American fleet. The American fighters were gone on a sortie, and the fleet was all but defenseless. He couldn't reach his squadron and bring them back in time to save the fleet. Nor could he warn the fleet of the approaching danger. There was only one thing to do. He must somehow divert them from the fleet. Laying aside all thoughts of personal safety, he dove into the formation of Japanese planes. Wing-mounted 50 caliber's blazed as he charged in, attacking one surprised enemy plane and then another. Butch wove in and out of the now broken formation and fired at as many planes as possible until all his ammunition was finally spent. Undaunted, he continued the assault. He dove at the planes, trying to clip a wing or tail in hopes of damaging as many enemy planes as possible, rendering them unfit to fly. Finally, the exasperated Japanese squadron took off in another direction. Deeply relieved, Butch O'Hare and his tattered fighter limped back to the carrier. Upon arrival, he reported in and related the event surrounding his return. The film from the gun-camera mounted on his plane told the tale. It showed the extent of Butch's daring attempt to protect his fleet. He had, in fact, destroyed five enemy aircraft. This took place on February 20, 1942 , and for that action Butch became the Navy's first Ace of W.W.II, and the first Naval Aviator to win the Medal of Honor. A year later Butch was killed in aerial combat at the age of 29. His home town would not allow the memory of this WW II hero to fade, and today, O'Hare Airport in Chicago is named in tribute to the courage of this great man. So, the next time you find yourself at O'Hare International, give some thought to visiting Butch's memorial displaying his statue and his Medal of Honor. It's located between Terminals 1 and 2. SO WHAT DO THESE TWO STORIES HAVE TO DO WITH EACH OTHER? Butch O'Hare was "Easy Eddie's" son. (Pretty cool, eh)
  38. 2 points
    rockfangd

    Idle relearn

    Welcome To Caddyinfo. You know I am not sure. It was over 4 years ago. I have never had it happen before but that is what the dealer said was wrong. I have to be honest it should be pretty easy to make sure it is installed properly. Next time I go to do one (Just bought another Deville) I will post a picture of it both the right way and a possible wrong way if there is one. Thank you for taking the time to read some threads, You can learn quite a bit
  39. 2 points
    rockfangd

    Battery no charge

    Lol. I though curse words were only common with ford products, Oh wait it is all of them. Isnt it funny that even changing a light bulb can cause cursing
  40. 2 points
    BodybyFisher

    Northstar Engine

    Yes I remember that. I blamed a WOT for blowi ng my head gasket. Let me say that that WOT went to about 90 well beyond where I drove the engine before I actually abused the engine that day. But I will say this, if it happened that day, it was bound to happen any day at that point, it was a matter of time. A sound Northstar can be driven all day like that. My engine at that point had about 130K. You can see the push back in that thread I cant say we have ever seen anyone cause engine damage or blown head gasket doing a WOT and if it does happen the engine was on its last leg
  41. 2 points
    Goran---why is easy. they want to. lol I wanted those N-50 tires on the rear in the 70's, my dad said why ha. Why would anyone want a morotcycle? I don't know, but I got one. I say why would anyone want black wheels, but the obvious answer is they like em. Some people like opera, oh well. good thing or it would be a boring world
  42. 2 points
    And it won't sell (due to the price), and it will be dropped in short order.
  43. 2 points
    Speaking of conversions Read More: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4922967144.html
  44. 2 points
    Cadillac Jim

    Closer view of grille...

    I don't like the way he's looking at The Lady in White.
  45. 2 points
    Ryan drives the 2013 Cadillac XTS4 around through the Florida Everglades. Does this large sport sedan take it's cue from the mushy American sedans of the past or does it break new ground? Includes 0-60 and alligators! (Or are those crocodiles? No idea.)
  46. 2 points
    Hello everyone! I am pleased to say, once again we have a forum where it is all about good, moral fun! A place where we can once again be here for those who need real information from actual Cadillac Master Techs. I would like to say thanks to my good friend Bruce, for making it all possible. I was surprised to find out that Bruce is in fact a TEXAN!!! And best of all, he just lives what we call here in Texas, down the street just a few miles away! When I realized Bruce was right here next to me, I contacted him and he came right over where we hung out and talked Cadillacs! So here is to many years of friendship! Now, together we can bring back the joy we once had in a forum we can trust to be fair and honest, a place where we can make many new friends! I am excited to meet you all, and answer those questions you were unable to trust elsewhere. Thanks, Tim Carroll CEO/Senior Eng. http://carrollcustomcadillac.com Northern Texas!
  47. 2 points
    JimD

    CaddyInfo Group: Lifetime Supporter

    Thank you Bruce; I'm proud to be a contributor whenever I'm able. Not currently a Cadillac owner. My search for a "reasonably priced" CTS Coupe continues.
  48. 2 points
    Z15

    Pink Mary Kay SRX

    Here a few of them rolling off the line at the Arlington Assembly plant.....according to a friend who is a asst. sales manager at a Cadi dealer they delivered one a few years back and when the lease was up GM had the car transport company pickup the car and return it to GM for reconditioning.
  49. 2 points
    jndnaps

    96 DeVille Coolant leak

    Yeah, I don't drive to far.. Plus, we live close to every thing so you don't have to go far. I was taking care of my mother so I did have a lot of doctors appointments to take her to the last few years. She passed away in Jan, so I'll be driving it even less now.. I couldn't put any in the car. That smell would get my asthma all worked up.. Looks like the spray worked, no trace of anything this AM.. Anywho, I went out and got some lunch and went to the park to eat. While I was sitting there I let it idle and it got as hot as 222 and then went back down to 212 when the fans kicked in. The A/C wasn't on because it's cold out today, In the 50's, with a pretty good breeze. I took some pics there by the lake.. Only a few because it was cold with the wind. Had to be a windchill in the 40's.. It's not super cleaned up, but looks good in the pics, and not bad for 127K..
  50. 2 points
    If you like it now, wait until it has all eight cylinders at full compression! Be careful with those tailgaters. Some of them are police. I do find the handling much more effective at losing tailgaters than the engine because at this late date on the East Coast no one expects an old Cadillac to handle like that. I've found that I can easily lose a Lexus with a brisk right turn without my wife noticing anything. And, it's perfectly legal as well as being safe and prudent, so long as you can see what's around the curve before you enter it. If you use the engine they can catch you later by simply ignoring the speed limit indefinitely and I have found that anyone who will tailgate like that will ignore the speed limit. Another tactic is effective if you do see a police car; drive next to it and a little ahead or wherever you can safely place yourself to minimize the distance between the tailgater and the driver of the police car. The last resort is dialing #77; the police are really a good friend on the road if you need one. I had several people track my CTS-V for a bit while on the trip back and successfully ignored all of them, in no small part because I look the part of the fuddy-duddy feather-foot, and I saw one of them pulled over by the Bears. Those guys give the Bears something to do.