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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/30/2010 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Jan Olsson

    BBF we miss you.

    I miss BBF's posts. All that committed energy and all that knowledge. I'm sure that I'm not alone!
  2. 4 points
    Our lovely German host Sarah Sauer takes the 2015 Porsche Panamera S E-Hybrid for a spin. The Porsche Panamera S E-Hybrid is powered by a 3.0 liter V6 engine making 333 horsepower and than there's an electric-motor that makes 95 horsepower with a total output of 416 horsepower. Together with an 8-speed automatic transmission 0 to 60 mph will come in 5.2 seconds with a top speed of 167 mph. But is it worth the $99,000 price tag? Let's find out! With camera men Jan Gleitsmann and Jens Stratmann of Ausfahrt.tv!
  3. 3 points
    I watched the video a few times and it looks like the freeze out plug in the head is leaking, is that correct? Here are a few close ups. You will notice on one head the cam pulley is removed and in the other head there is no intake cam for locational perspective.
  4. 3 points
    Göran W

    I need help.......

    Ok. Like this?
  5. 3 points
    Bruce Nunnally

    1956 Cadillac drawing

    Link; https://plus.google.com/113969460069344266731/posts/i4WipmeZqrf
  6. 3 points


    As I promised first patch of my Cadillacs photos: More to come...
  7. 3 points
    I'm pretty much talking about the body, paint and interior. Although a lot of the mechanical parts are too. Even the shocks and struts.. They do need changing though.. It took me 10 years to do it, but this is my 400th post!! WOO HOO!!
  8. 3 points
    Problem: Parking brake does not release automatically Car in question: Seville 1998 – 2004 Symptom: Parking brake applied. Engine running, transmission lever set in gear. Parking brake does not release by itself, but when parking brake pedal is pushed slightly further and then released, parking brake will release. How the mechanism works: The parking brake pedal is held down by friction of a spring wound around a cylinder. This cylinder has a toothed wheel on top of it, which engages with a toothed wheel segment connected to the parking brake pedal. If one applies the parking brake, the pedal moves and turns the cylinder against the windings of the spring which gives no friction thus no locking force. Once the pedal is no longer pushed (you take your foot away) it tries to return. The cylinder tries to spin in the opposite direction with the windings of the spring, resulting in pulling down the spring and thus locking the cylinder, the pedal is held in position. When the solenoid engages to release the parking brake (or the emergency release lever is used), the windings of the spring are pushed open. The cylinder is set free, rotetes and the pedal returns to the normal position. Reason for malfunction: The springs sticks to the cylinder, even when the tension is released. A little metal lever inside the mechanism is slightly out of shape. Remedy: Remove complete parking brake mechanism. To do this, separate the front section of the parking brake cable under the car, below the drivers seat, near the sill. Unhook parking brake cable from plastic brackets (two). Remove sound insulation panel (two screws) and knee bolster (pull down after sound insulation panel is removed). Remove sill molding (pull up carefully). Remove footrest, start with the black plastic insert (pry with a screwdriver from the top), then undo two screws. Undo three 13mm nuts holding the parking brake mechanism to the body. Pry back carpet, remove rubber grommet where parking brake cable enters the body. Move parking brake mechanism downwards until you can reach the electrical connector on top of the solenoid, seperate the connector. From under the car, depress the springs where the parking brake cable enters the body, push cable in and remove complete parking brake assembly including cable. Study mechanism, look from the pedal side into the apparatus. Locate little tin lever which operates spring (second pic). Check how much slack is evident when you operate the emergency lever. Carefully bend lever with a screwdriver or similar tool until free play is nearly gone. Test release operation by applying the pedal and using emergency release lever. Can pedal be moved back easily? See linked pictures: Put everything back together in reverse order. Time needed: 2 hours (relaxed working) Tools needed: Set of screwdrivers Pliers 1/2“ ratchet set 1/4“ ratchet set Shop lamp Some patience Hoist helpful, but not mandatory. Parking brake cable can be worked on lying on the ground by the drivers side of the car. Please bear in mind that I'm no native english speaker, in case there are spelling mistakes.
  9. 2 points
    Bruce Nunnally

    99 deville engine knock

    I split the posts that refer to a private argument & are off topic to this discussion into the offtopic forum & hid them. Please keep any personal beefs off CaddyInfo. I can't make you guys any more mutually invisible to each other; you either need to ignore each other or discuss somewhere else.
  10. 2 points

    My '96's 3000mi road trip

    Jim, Wishing your copilot a spedy recovery so she can return to her seat as vehicle navigator.
  11. 2 points

    Donald Trump!

    Need I say more? I notice very rarely is there political discussion at Caddyinfo. We all know politics is a divisive topic and no doubt we tend to shy away from political discussion in order to keep the peace. However, I have to chime in about Trump. He is a breath of fresh air, as far as his candor and no nonsene approach. Many feel he will bow out, but I don't think so. Unless he falls way behind in the polls, he's in it to win it. People are fed up with the status quo politicians on both sides of the isle. As far as I'm concerned, if a community organizer can become president, then a multi-billionaire businessman can become president. I'm tired of being lied to by politicians. For the first time in my lifetime a candidate (Donald Trump) is not affraid to tell it like it is.
  12. 2 points
    I have been hunting down a wicked electrical problem for the last few months, and finally resolved it last night. I want to document my experiences, symptoms, and solutions so that if anybody else encounters this problem in the future, they can save themselves a lot of money, and a LOT of frustration. Problem Background and Symptoms After finishing my timsert job and putting the car back together, I was getting the ABS and Traction Control lights on the dash illuminated. Also, seemingly unrelated, my turn signals did not work. This problem would be intermittent. Once in a while, the ABS/Traction lights would go out while driving, and 1st gear would return. Sometimes the turn signals would work, other times they wouldn't. When things were working right, I noticed a very weird correlation between when I would flick the turn signal stalk, that this would immediately cause the ABS/Traction lights to come on. This relation was very key to solving the problem, something I wish I would have noticed earlier. I did lots of searching on the forums, and even found one other member with this exact turn signal EBTCM issue, but unfortunately he seemed to have never resolved it. I learned that many people had EBTCM issues, and they they tend to go bad on these cars. Scanning the codes on my car (1996 Seville SLS, OBDII), I was getting a current P1602, "loss of serial data from EBTCM". I got out my FSM, and meticulously followed the diagnostics tree in the manual to diagnose the problem. This involves a bunch of steps, which basically probes almost every connector pin on the EBTCM connector to check for continuity, shorts to ground, shorts to voltage, and opens. I ran this full diagnostic tree with my multimeter several times, and always came to the same conclusion at the end of the tree "Bad EBTCM, replace unit". Come to find out, these are $650 from the dealer brand new, so I scoured for one from junk yards and on ebay. I found a used on on ebay, but they guy wanted $299 which I felt was too much for a used one. He is a forum member here, and he agreed to bargain down to a reasonable price (thank you!). I received the used EBTCM, assuming this would alleviate all my problems, installed it, and NO GO. Still not working. I assumed I had just gotten a bad unit. I shipped it back to him, and he tested it in his car, and confirmed it was bad. So, he sent me a new one that he had tried out in his own car to make sure it worked before he sent it to me. Imagine my surprise when I installed it in my car and it still didn't work! At this point, I threw in the towel and gave up. I was planning to sell the car anyways, and would just take my losses selling it with a bad ABS/traction system. But, the turn signal issue was really bothering me, so I decided to try and trouble shoot that system. First things first, I got all new bulbs, and new flasher. Still nothing worked. I took apart the steering column and replaced the turn signal switch. Kind of a pain, and it still didn't fix the issue. Then I decided to follow the FSM's "electronics diagnosis" section. It starts by saying to probe the 3 wires going to the flasher module, check for shorts to ground, shorts to voltage, grounds, opens, AND reference voltage. This is KEY! My multimeter found no shorts, no opens, but I found something very weird in that my brown wire, which was supposed to be system voltage (12v), was only reading 2.3v. So I went in the trunk to access the rear fuse panel, and sure enough found only 2.3v back there as well. While I was back there, I checked all the other fuses since I had things apart, and found all of the other circuits with 12v, except for the turn signal fuse, and the console fuse, both with 2.3v. In the FSM, the electrical diagram for the turn signal wiring shows power for the circuit originating from one of the big Maxi-fuses (30amp) in the front fuse box under the hood. Probing up there, I found the same thing, just 2.3v. Now that's weird, because that is coming RIGHT off the battery (almost), and that was fine at 12v. So, I pulled the fuse, and found a very slight green corrosive haze on the terminal contacts. I wire brushed this clean, re-installed the Maxi-fuse, and checked the voltage - it was now 12v, as it should be. Tried out the turn signals, and they work! But OH MY GOD... so was the EBTCM!! The ABS/TCS lights were off, and I could drive totally normal, no ABS/Traction lights, and use my turn signals. And it worked continously, with no intermittent failures like before. I couldn't figure out why this EBTCM issue all of a sudden became corrected, until I found THIS diagram in the FSM: It shows that the "Batt 3" 30amp Maxi-fuse actually feeds both the turn signal circuit, and the EBTCM main power, through circuit #300. Corrosion on the Maxi-fuse terminals must have been causing a high resistance and therefore voltage drop on this line. All of the wires were intact, with no shorts, which is why when I was doing the EBTCM diagnostic tree, everything checked out. In my opinion, a MAJOR flaw in that diagnostic tree, is that it never asks you to verify +12v on that pin feeding the EBTCM! It has you check for shorts to ground, continuity, and opens, but never queries adequate voltage. Now that my EBTCM is getting 12v, it runs. Of course the module would not operate properly on 2.3v!! I'm surprise it even operated intermitently at that low voltage, but when it DID, flicking the turn signal stalk drew enough additional voltage on that #300 circuit, to cause the EBTCM to turn off, and thus illuminate the ABS/traction lights. Who would have guess that the EBTCM and turn signals were so closely integrated power-wise. The moral of the story... if you have an EBTCM problem AND turn signal problem... CHECK OUT CIRCUIT #300! Check the voltage at the small ABS fuse and Batt3 maxi-fuse under the hood, and the turn-signal fuse in the trunk. If they don't have 12v, you need to trace down where the high resistance in the circuit is. Corrosion on the maxi-fuse was my problem. I pulled my hair out over this issue, and hope to save someone else the hassle in the future.
  13. 2 points

    IAC valve or TPS issue?

    thanks for the help everyone. It seems to be fixed, at least for the first couple trips I've taken. I replaced the TPS, the old one was really worn out, no spring return action and it spun very freely. Also cleaned the connections with some electrical connector cleaner. Started it up and it runs normally, for 50 miles so far.
  14. 2 points

    My Seville made my day.

    Hi all. thought I would share. I took My 97 Seville out of winter storage today. It has been parked since october. I checked the oil, unhooked the battery tender, fired it up, and off I went. This car still runs and drives like new. clearly the reason why I stick with this generation Cadillac. There is definate differences between the 97 Seville and my 01 Eldo. Which makes me wonder what else Cadillac changed after 2000. Examples The Seville has instant snap, the eldorado has the snap but it is not like the Seville. the engine is very throaty and begs for more on the Seville, the eldo is not as throaty and does not sound as good. I also like not having the air pump setup on the Seville. My eldo has horrible torque steer, The Seville does not. My Seville has RSS, the eldo does not. (wish it did) And to top it off my Seville does not have the nagging front end shimmy that I still cannot cure on my eldo. My Seville thrilled me today. To go from storage to driving it like I stole it and it begged for more. It felt great. I might add that my 96 Deville rode just as good as the 97 Seville and had over 200k miles. What else did Cadillac do away with after year 2000?
  15. 2 points

    04 Seville idling problems

    Since the engine 'may' be 'toast', and wait for others to chime in, you may want to perform the 'Italian tune-up' (in case your compression loss is due to extensive carbon build-up in and around rings/valves/etc. Some full throttle (in a safe place) in the lower gears with decelerations in the same lower gears might dislodge carbon deposits accrued. With #1 so low I'm thinking it might not just be carbon but, not a lot to lose, (at this point). Certainly wait for Texas Jim or one of the others with Northstar experience to confirm or refute my advice.
  16. 2 points

    2002 Deville engine miss

    Could be the rubber intake coupler starting to fail. I thought mine was bad gas too as I had just put some in when mine started doing it... Wait a bit....you may see a 171 and 174 lean bank codes show up. They'll all do it sooner or later. The rubber rots and splits at the bottom where the intake juices collect. Intake has to come off to replace.
  17. 2 points

    05 DeVille - No A/C

    What are the vent temps. at the center outlet when the climate control is set to 60°? The range in pressures you posted - I assume the compressor kicks off at 34 psi on the low side and about 165 psi on the high side? It sounds like you have it about right. The vent temperature would be helpful to know. You do not want to overcharge it or the cooling performance will go down. There is probably a slow leak in the system - If it were my car, I'd run it and monitor the A/C performance. If it starts blowing warm air, you know there is a leak in the system. Check the condenser (mounted in front of the radiator) for wet/oily spots as well as all the connections on the hoses/lines.
  18. 2 points
    Losing about a quart a week sounds like steam pockets in the head. I believe a flo-vent radiator cap is one with a lever on top that can release the pressure; I don't think that they come as the right type for a Northstar because they take a screw-type radiator cap. The whole point of screwing on and off is to release the pressure before the cap comes off, so you don't need a flo-vent lever on a screw-type radiator cap. If the bypass isn't flowing, the radiator pressure isn't 15 psi, or the coolant isn't at least 50% antifreeze, steam pockets will form in the head, accumulate at the thermostat and keep it from seeing the hot water for a short time so that more steam forms, and the steam will force water out the overflow. That can cause your quart of coolant loss a week. Another thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the water pump belt. The water pump is on the rear of a transverse Northstar, on the front head over on the driver's side by the transmission, and is driven by a big pulley on a camshaft. It has it's own V-belt and tensioner under a cover. Check the belt and make sure that the tensioner is good.
  19. 2 points
    I have had this really annoying sound for years. It was a tapping/knocking sound only manifesting itself with the engine warm and only at idle and after about 1 minute of idle too. It originated from somewhere at the front of the engine area. I found out that the sound disappeared with the AC-compressor off and thought it was the problem until I discovered that it returned with vehicle in gear. Even with the AC off! Ok, so now what? I checked the accessories and everything seemed just fine except from perhaps a small axial play in the AC-compressor bearings but I was almost certain that the AC was fine. I tried to listen with a stethoscope and tried from underneath but could not locate the sound at all. Finally I came to the conclusion that there has to be something vibrating, like the engine oil cooler line, a loose fan shroud or something like that. The sound was usually gone when I put the car on a jack to add to the complexity. The sound did not get progressively worse and could be gone for weeks so I was certain that it really wasn't anything mechanical. This kept on going and was extremely annoying and slightly embarrassing because I always do all the work on my car (I have only visited repair shops twice since 1992). The other day I had to replace the left rear brake line and after the test drive I noticed that the sound was gone! I guess that one of the brake lines were close enough to the sub-frame to make contact with the right amount of heat and vibrations. Now I can finally get some peace
  20. 2 points
    Ryan drives the 2013 Cadillac XTS4 around through the Florida Everglades. Does this large sport sedan take it's cue from the mushy American sedans of the past or does it break new ground? Includes 0-60 and alligators! (Or are those crocodiles? No idea.)
  21. 2 points
    Check out this supreme street rod. Big Block Chevrolet power is in this built street boulevard cruiser. This steel-bodied '39 Cadillac LaSalle features vintage air conditioning, power windows, power seating, custom sound, disc brakes, and many more custom features. The paint is sapphire blue with ghost flames. This car was filmed with Texas Classic Cars of Dallas on 5-22-14! ENJOY - Sam Love the engraved rear bumper. I would enjoy this as a weekend car.
  22. 2 points
    We don't need laws like that... A set of tires that is on a car that sits outside in the Florida sun will have a different life than a set that is on a car that is garaged. To establish some BS timeframe to apply to all tires is ridiculous.
  23. 2 points
    Hello everyone! I am pleased to say, once again we have a forum where it is all about good, moral fun! A place where we can once again be here for those who need real information from actual Cadillac Master Techs. I would like to say thanks to my good friend Bruce, for making it all possible. I was surprised to find out that Bruce is in fact a TEXAN!!! And best of all, he just lives what we call here in Texas, down the street just a few miles away! When I realized Bruce was right here next to me, I contacted him and he came right over where we hung out and talked Cadillacs! So here is to many years of friendship! Now, together we can bring back the joy we once had in a forum we can trust to be fair and honest, a place where we can make many new friends! I am excited to meet you all, and answer those questions you were unable to trust elsewhere. Thanks, Tim Carroll CEO/Senior Eng. http://carrollcustomcadillac.com Northern Texas!
  24. 2 points

    Pink Mary Kay SRX

    Here a few of them rolling off the line at the Arlington Assembly plant.....according to a friend who is a asst. sales manager at a Cadi dealer they delivered one a few years back and when the lease was up GM had the car transport company pickup the car and return it to GM for reconditioning.
  25. 2 points

    96 DeVille Coolant leak

    Yeah, I don't drive to far.. Plus, we live close to every thing so you don't have to go far. I was taking care of my mother so I did have a lot of doctors appointments to take her to the last few years. She passed away in Jan, so I'll be driving it even less now.. I couldn't put any in the car. That smell would get my asthma all worked up.. Looks like the spray worked, no trace of anything this AM.. Anywho, I went out and got some lunch and went to the park to eat. While I was sitting there I let it idle and it got as hot as 222 and then went back down to 212 when the fans kicked in. The A/C wasn't on because it's cold out today, In the 50's, with a pretty good breeze. I took some pics there by the lake.. Only a few because it was cold with the wind. Had to be a windchill in the 40's.. It's not super cleaned up, but looks good in the pics, and not bad for 127K..