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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/18/2021 in all areas

  1. Wow.....I'm about to pull the trigger and buy the wheel mounting machine too. Be done with those fools at the tire stores. Now 3 cars........all 3 riding better than they ever have! So 12 wheels so far. Couple of interesting things.... 1 bent wheel. Bad enough I will have to replace or repair it before putting new rubber on. It's on the back for now. 2 wheels that had no weight at all. No witness tape marks or anything. Of course they are good now with weight. Lengthy review of the stuff by someone else (not me).....great pics. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/at-home-tire-machines-my-experience-with-derek-wea/170332/page1/
    1 point
  2. Been put off by local sloppy wheel balances for years......they simply are not doing it right.... Firestone....Discount Tire.... "We'll put our best new guy on it.".....yikes.. It cannot be done correctly in one or two 90 second spins. You really need about 20-30 minutes per wheel to get them right. Firestone finally pissed me off. Needed one BMW TPMS sensor installed on a single wheel....had the wheel off the car....had the new OEM sensor in hand....."Sorry....We only put our TPMS sensors in." Sooo......purchased a wheel balancer. So far....2 cars now driving perfect at highway speeds....A BMW and a Chevrolet. https://www.derekweaver.com/rodders-garage/wheel-balancers/weaver-w-937-40-wheel-balancer/ny Any questions let us know. Excellent product.
    1 point
  3. Clear the light and see how long it takes to come back. See if it shudders around 41 mph. If it shudders and the light triggers then it is very likely the torque convertor that failed. Typically that code alone means torque convertor. If it shudders but does not trigger the light it may be in early stages. These were hard to tell when something is not right. They seem to ride nice no matter what lol. If it does not shudder at all around 41 mph and lockup is smooth then I would just monitor it to see if it comes back.
    1 point
  4. If it is the torque convertor I have seen mysterious higher than normal fluid levels. I had 2 90s ones that had this code, both would have higher than normal fluid level. (I know because nobody touches them but me). I would pull the level back down to normal and within 6 months it would be overfull again. No contamination. I put over 20k miles on my 96 with the code. It started coming on about once every 2 weeks, to eventually it never went away. Would not pass NYSI because of it. I would have to drive it in a way to not trigger the light. This may sound really weird but I have had enough of these over time and feel them very well... I avoid driving around 40mph. I know this may sound weird but the TCC locks up at 41mph. If you drive it around that speed alot the TCC will be working alot. So hard to explain but I have 2 right now and one has 170k, the other has 130k. Both original trannys. I always avoid that speed that TCC lockup starts. Newer vehicles have a variable lockup for the TCC. I assume yours is still a on/off style like mine. How often does the problem occur?
    1 point
  5. If the TCC, torque converter clutch, does not engage your transmission will run hotter and eventually could cause other problems (you are also losing efficiency). The code is for torque converter circuit; so maybe a wiring issue or a bad clutch solenoid. Here's just one link (there are others): P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off DTC (obd-codes.com)
    1 point
  6. The passenger side mirror will tilt down when the car is put in reverse.......then return to the original position when put back in drive. Driver assist kind of thing. On my 2001 Deville (same car).......the passenger mirror would return......but never to the correct original position. Gets old quick. There is a way to turn 'off' this feature. That is what I did. You might need a GM Tech 2 to turn on/off the feature....can't exactly remember.
    1 point
  7. I believe the mirror positions are 'remembered' as part of the seat position settings. Perhaps try correctly positioning the side mirrors, then re-saving (re-setting) the seat memory?
    1 point
  8. When they sound out of time.....they are often are. Sounds like something may be coming loose or failing in the timing chain system. Maybe off brand chain? Bunch of work.....but a lot cheaper to go in and look now. Curious.......Is the engine sipping some coolant? Maybe coolant is getting in to a cylinder. Why Big Serts? Why not the standard inserts?......Time Sert or the other ones? (I cant think of the name) Hopefully not Heil-Coils.
    1 point
  9. sonjaab

    Possible BCM failure?

    Left side DONE! All guages, chimes, lights, HVAC ops. work! PHEW!.............Need a couple cold ones now!
    1 point
  10. sonjaab

    Possible BCM failure?

    Well I drove to Rochester and got the used CCC and plugged it it. BCM cost $45 IT WORKS! FDC and CCC all lit up and working! Rain today so have the car in garage so I can put the dash back together.
    1 point
  11. Hey Rockfangd! I know exactly how you feel, when my previous 2 Eldos started puffing out the rusted holes in the mufflers it really sounded like crap... I went with the Dynomax Super Turbos, the sport series which were a little shorter and really woke up that Northstar growl at WOT! The nice thing is it a nice subtle, deep rumble at idle but no drone at highway speed. Just a nice balance! Mine weren’t SS, but I believe they make a SS series now. I know I posted pics and even a video way back when I did this on the original “Sprucegoose” but would have to search if it’s still there... I bought new SS dual square tips and it looked amazing too! Good luck on your exhaust upgrade!
    1 point


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