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  1. I do it every year. At least 1 every year, occasionally 2. Best tips. Fill gas tank full. Will keep tank clean and prevent moisture. Non ethanol, high octane is all I run period Put fuel treatment in the tank for how many gallons it takes. I do not disconnect the battery. I put a trickle tender on them all winter. Keeps battery warm and maintained. Leave the car sitting normally. Not on jacks, ramps, etc... I highly recommend running it to temp at least once a month. Helps to keep the oil from completely running down, keep things lubricated and moving. Runni
    2 points
  2. jvf1095

    Odd Ball Northstar?

    Hello & thanks for the advice. Attached a picture. Enjoy!
    2 points
  3. SteveW

    MAP Sensor and P0741

    I encountered an interesting phenomenon. I've had a hard P0741 fault for 3 or 4 years. When I cleared my DTC's the P0741 code would return immediately after 2 consecutive trips. I also had shifting problems. Additionally, I had intermittent hard shifts and the "chuggling" symptom at idle. I also had a vacuum leak from the intake to PCV valve hose line. Long term fuel trims were a consistent +19 to +20. I replaced the PCV hose line. When I started it, the engine stalled with a P0101 DTC. After some investigation, I found a damaged MAP sensor. The sensor stem had broken resulting in the MAP sens
    1 point
  4. I have to laugh about the numerous chipmunks i have here! They filled the trunk of my old Buick rat with the chesnuts off of the big tree in my back yard. I guess the mothballs or cat didnt work so good! I gotta do something with this old girl. She runs so good but a rotted engine cradle took her off the road. This is my new rat for blizzard season fresh from Fla.
    1 point
  5. SteveW

    MAP Sensor and P0741

    I don't think the PCV hose vacuum leak was related but, perhaps the damaged MAP was. The MAP on that car tells the ECU what load is on the engine. If MAP thinks the load is higher, the ECU would adjust shift points and RPM accordingly. When the car reached 41 MPH, the ECU turned on the TCC but, the engine speed was improperly elevated due to misreporting by the MAP. Maybe this tricked the ECU to think the elevated RPM was due to slippage. That's my theory anyway. Didn't touch TCU connections or grounds.
    1 point
  6. This should be unrelated to a P0741. If it were due to leakage it wouldn't have been affected for sure. But maybe its possible during your investigation of the P0101 code you accidently reset or disturbed (in a good way) the main transmission plug improving its connection. The P0741 sets when the computer detects a greater than 250 rpm slip in the lock up torque converter. Within that main plug are connections for the TCC solenoid. Did you clean any grounds maybe? Keep us updated as to whether or not it comes back
    1 point
  7. You are correct on all aspects. When I put 2 of the 3 pumps I have in place like the one currently wired they start fast and slow quickly. I fully understand that there is lack of resistance of the pump itself (in the valve). How much more resistance is unknown. Once I have a known good motor to mount I will be happy. When I get the old motors to spin ok, they will last for a few days without tripping the lights, then it seems they hit that (bad spot) and bam they don't spin, or pull alot of resistance and trip the lights
    1 point
  8. Rockfangd hit the nail on the head. I'll add that when running the engine to temperature monthly (if you decide to do that), getting up to temp. doesn't just mean the water temp, you need to get the oil temperature to operating temperature to insure the moisture is purged from the engine oil and exhaust system. Jacking your vehicle can help preventing flat-spotting your tires unless your "getting up to temperature" (previous tip) includes driving your vehicle to accomplish your oil heating/circulating cycle. Taking your vehicle for a spin (on a picture perfect day) also circulates other flu
    1 point
  9. krow

    Info on transmission

    got the fill plug out, quarter cup fluid ran out, put the fill plug in cranked and went thru shifter 3 times, while running took fill plug out and fluid started pouring out, 1 1/2 to 2 quarts, I did not expect any to come out, I,m at my whits end, fluid was dirty nothing when I ran a mag thru it Follow up, dropped the pan and cleaned it, changed the filter. Pan had some micro metal. new filter/fluid. Runs great shifts great. PROBLEM SOLVED.
    1 point
  10. 1974 CADILLAC COUPE DEVILLE On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-Cadillac-DeVille/274527788654?
    1 point
  11. Three in-house speed shops glue their badges on their brands' smallest sedans. https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/comparison-test/a34304375/2020-bmw-m235i-gran-coupe-vs-cadillac-ct4-v-mercedes-amg-a35/ "Is that the one with the Corvette engine?" The guy admiring the candy-red Cadillac wants to know if he's in the presence of the mighty 640-hp CTS-V. Not quite, friend. This is the one with the four-cylinder truck engine. "Oh. Well, I'm sure it's still fast." That passing interaction perfectly captures why the Cadillac CT4-V, the BMW M235i Gran Coupe, and the Me
    1 point
  12. Hope this alternator works out great for you! 👍🏼 This discussion brought back a tough memory where I had just replaced the alternator on my beautiful 98 Eldo. I sold it a week later and the new owner didn’t even make it home, a 20 mi. drive before breaking down. He called to say the car had warning lights come on and when he stopped and looked the serpentine belt had broke... Turned out that the reman alternator I had bought from Autozone had seized up and taken out the belt! I gave him $200 back from the purchase price for his troubles and got another alternator from Autozone for
    1 point
  13. That is correct. That was the reason I only went with Remy. Am more feeling a little better about this one
    1 point
  14. Honestly when I am driving my Caddys hard It never crosses my mind. I have owned these for years and have had bare minimal problems. I love to hear the NorthStar roar. If it ever happens then I will worry about it then I do not recommend babying them. They were not designed for that and the ones that are tend to have more problems (EGR, sludge in intake, etc...) I preach to 20 mpg driven spiritedly on both of my 97s
    1 point
  15. Put a fuel presssure gage on it to see exactly what the fuel pressure is with the key on. Its nice that its running, but whats the pressure. Don't parts replace, leave the plugs alone, they won't cause a no start problem Tell us the history of the car was this a sudden problem? Did the car sit for a long time? Did you dump fuel in it from a container that might have water in it? Drain a little fuel using the fuel pressure gage, into a clear glass bottle and let it sit, if water is in there it will separate. Have you checked for codes? Buy a spark tester at the parts
    1 point
  16. Beautiful car you are lucky to find that with low mileage. It has been said that the head gaskets blow because coolant goes acidic from not being changed, it eats the head gasket and coolant leeches into the headbolt threads and corrodes them via electrolysis weakening the threads and the bolts pull out of the block. We had a Northstar powertrain here for a while and that was GMs finding on the matter. And I am not doubting GMs prognosis, because I have seen aluminum block material turned to dust from electrolysis and acidic coolant would facilitate that. I have since blown
    1 point
  17. I would not worry one bit about it. With regular maintenance you will have done all you can do to prevent it. If it does happen then worry about it. But I have learned in life that there is no sense worrying about things that could happen but do not always happen
    1 point


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