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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/02/2020 in Posts

  1. Hi! I just wanted to re-introduce myself since it was a long time ago. I'm a male, 46 years old, with wife and a daughter, nine years old. I don't really consider myself to be one of the lucky guys in the world but I'm not a very social kind of person and that goes hand in hand. I have been unemployed the latest two recessions for a couple of years (in Sweden it is the last guy employed who is the first guy who gets sacked when a company needs to shrink their employee force) and have moved around quite a bit (in Sweden) just to keep myself occupied. You know the kind, the guy with few personal connections who has to take the job no one else in their right minds will take. Some organization theorists believe that there are three kinds of people, the guy who just tags along, the guy who likes to be in charge and me, the guy who likes to be the specialist. I'm working as a mechanical engineer (currently on a company producing labels and my department is manufacturing labeling machines with me as the head engineer). I develop all new equipment even if the whole department take credit from my achievements, especially if they weren’t involved in the process at all, like sales people, my boss etc. My wife is a nurse specialized in cancer treatment (half boss too). Anyway we had to commute so the time to do fun things like working on cars, write on forums etc. was limited. We live in a small town because we really don't want to live in a violent and criminal town like Malmoe (where I am working). The Covid-19 outbreak forced me to work from home which by the way suits me just fine since I can't stand half of the people on my department (not to mention being in Malmoe) I've been working as a mechanical engineer in almost 25 years and have NEVER been surrounded by so many freeloaders. I swear that if the management kicked half of the employees we couldn't tell the difference! As an example we had an inventory of the stock the other day, on guy was "sick", a girl aged about 25 complained about that she was not supposed to be there because it wasn't her job, and also complained about her nails being damaged from counting O-rings and washers. I told her to shut up and count how many spring turns there are on the spring and work instead of complaining. 😉 I've been on the Caddy info forum since 2002 and have owned an Eldorado (1988 year model with about 150k miles on in when sold, 50 k miles from my driving) a 1993 STS (with about 150 k on it when sold, 50 k miles from my driving) a 2002 STS (about 210 k miles on in when sold, 190 k from my driving) and am the happy owner of a 2012 CTS-V. The V currently has about 100 k on the odometer (70 k miles from me). Our family (daughter, wife and me) also like Jeeps. We have owned a 1990 Cherokee, a 2004 Wrangler and the latest one was bought last year. A 1999 Grand Cherokee. Of course people think that we are insane when we buy a 20 year old car with almost 200k on the odometer but I saw it as a recreational project. I always try to do as much as possible by myself when I work on our cars. No need to pay someone to damage or mistreat the car, I can do a better work for free. I only have access to a very small garage. Just enough space to change oil, brake pads and other small stuff. On the Jeep I've replaced all cooler lines and hoses, alternator, AC-compressor, radiators, brake pads and discs, brake booster, rear exhaust system, fan coupling, some sensors and electrical motors too. Payed the local shop to do the brake lines and rusted out door sills and some other small stuff. Now we have a 4wd in “daily drive condition” and a car that we use in terrain and all year around costing $0 in financing. Just got to fix the leaking valve gaskets and some minor stuff. We used it on a 3000 mile drive this vacation without the slightest problem. Now I thought it was the time to buy an older car. I bought a 1949 Chevrolet Fleetline in "daily driver" condition and I am planning to keep it in OEM condition. Unfortunately it is hard to get access to garages in Sweden and I'm searching for a garage to store it and work on it. I have the car stored by the seller at the moment and can go there to do minor work on the car but it is always better to have the car in the near vicinity than 30 miles away. I think it is in need of only smaller work. Adjusting valves, ignition and carburetor, get the clock and speedometer to work and other small stuff like that. Great car, but it is not a Cadillac. I figured that I already have a performance driver so it will be fun driving a Chevrolet anyway The car has an inline overhead valve six with about 90 bhp, three on a tree (first gear unsynchronized), no oil filter (option in the day) and an AM-radio, 6 Volt electrical system and vacuum wipers, no servo steering or servo brakes but it is solid running, no mechanical noises and reasonable rust free. I just love it
    3 points
  2. Looked around for a month for a used tire changer. No real luck......used ones are overpriced, discontinued or ready for the scrap heap. Also the newer units can do the larger tires. Great bang for the $. A new Derek Weaver tire changer. Video is not me. But same unit.
    2 points
  3. Hi Bruce and others I notice your in Plano, Tx I just moved from Oregon to Greenville, Tx which is just east of you I used to work for GM at the Tech center in Warren, Mi back in mid 1980s to early 1990s Frankly you need to find a better dealer or shop as their diagnostics game plan is lacking So just doing some thinking 1. PCM uses a 5 volt ref to several engin sensors such as CAM, Crank, TPS, APP, MAF, AIR, etc. So if the fuse for 5 volt (of PCM) or the PCM itself was faulty there would be a lot more problems and DTCs tripped so to me that leaves it is not a PCM issue 2. You did not mention if the engine goes into limp mode, if it does I would go right to diag APP (gas pedal and TPS) as 2 of your DTCs are drive by wire issues. Depending on model year APP consists of 2 or 3 pots, the TAC (DBW controller) is doing multi checks to assure APP is not faulty and would cause a run away vehicle and cause a crash. Simply with a good OBD-II scanner (as I show below ) even with just key on, engine off APP and TPS can be seen if APP and TPS agree or not. 3. Also, can use the scanner to see if 5 volt ref is functional 4. Should be checking for TSBs for that vehicle as many times the problems are weak crimps of wiring pins or the wiring loom has no slack such as to APP and causes stress to wiring pins connections As example : SUBJECT:Service Update for Inventory and Customer Vehicles Main Engine Harness Wire Chafe Expires with Base Warranty MODELS:2016 Cadillac ATS-V This service update includes vehicles in dealer inventory and customer vehicles that return to the dealership for any reason. This bulletin will expire at the end of the involved vehicle's New Vehicle Limited Warranty period. PURPOSE This bulletin provides a service procedure to inspect and, if necessary, reposition the main engine-wiring harness on certain2016 model year Cadillac ATS-V vehicles. In some of these vehicles, the orientation of the main-engine wiring harness could cause the wires to contact and chafe against the right-front valve cover bolt and washer. If the engine-wiring harness insulation is compromised, the vehicle’s tachometer, powertrain, and automatic-braking systems could be effected. While this condition could—if uncorrected—cause a loss of propulsion or the activation of the automatic braking system, GM has no reports indicating that either event has occurred on a vehicle in the field. This service procedure should be completed as soon as possible on involved vehicles currently in dealer inventory and customer vehicles that return to the dealer for any type of service during the New Vehicle Limited Warranty coverage period. So check for other TSBs such as VEHICLES INVOLVED 16 ATS-V TSBS Check for how the DTCs are defined will help zoom into the areas to look at first such as : Symptoms of a P2135 code can range from stalling when you come to a stop, total lack of power, no acceleration, sudden loss of power at cruise speeds or stuck throttle at current rpm. Additionally, the check engine light will illuminate and the code will be set. Potential Causes of P2135 DTC It's been my experience that the wiring connector or "pig tail" on the throttle body gives problems in the form of a poor connection.The female terminals on the pigtail corrode or pull out of the connector. Possible bare wire on pigtail shorting to ground. The top cover on the throttle body distorted preventing the gears from turning properly. The electronic throttle body is faulty. The accelerator pedal sensor or its wiring failed. The engine management computer has failed. The TPS sensors were not correlating for a few seconds and the computer needs to be cycled through its relearn phase to restore active response to the throttle body, or the computer needs reprogramming at the dealer. Diagnostic / Repair Steps A few points about the electronically controlled throttle. This system is incredibly sensitive and vulnerable to damage, more than any other system. Handle it and its components with extreme care. One drop or rough handling and it's history. Apart from the accelerator pedal sensor, the remainder of the components is in the throttle body. On inspection, you will notice a flat plastic cover on the top of the throttle body. This houses the gears to actuate the throttle plate. The motor has a small metal gear protruding up through the housing under the cover. It drives a large "plastic" gear attached to the throttle plate. The pin that centers and supports the gear fits into the throttle body housing and the top pin fits into the "thin" plastic cover. If the cover is distorted in any way, the gear will be compromised requiring total replacement of the throttle body. Pull the electrical connector out of the throttle body. Inspect it closely for missing or bent female terminals. Look for corrosion. Clean any corrosion using a small pocket screwdriver. Place a small amount of electrical grease on the terminals and reconnect it. If the terminal connector has bent or missing pins you can pick up a new "pigtail" at most auto parts stores or from the dealer. Inspect the top cover on the throttle body for cracks or warping. If any are present, call the dealer and ask if they sell just the top cover. If not, replace the throttle body. With a voltmeter, probe the accelerator pedal sensor. It will have 5 volts for reference and next to it a varying signal. Turn the key on and slowly depress the pedal. The voltage should climb from .5 to 5.0 smoothly. Replace it if the voltage spikes or it has no voltage at the signal wire. Look online for wire terminal identification on the throttle body of your vehicle. Probe the throttle body connector for power to the throttle motor. Have a helper turn the key on and slightly depress the pedal. If no power is present, the computer is at fault. If there is power the throttle body is malfunctioning. -------------------------------------- If problem is resolved, problems still might happen but it could be now that APP and TPS are NOT rezoned to PCM Some GM makes to rezone TPS as to angle of TB butterfly is with key on, engine off, disconnect the wiring connector of TPS PCM will trip a TPS DTC and set TPS angle at zero angle, go key off, plug TPS connector back in, turn key back on and PCM will rezone TPS angle to zero, Clear any DTCs JR _ Team ZR-1 Corvette Racing - Custom GM PCM and TCM Tuning
    2 points
  4. Hi guys sorry for not noticing this post before tonight. I have the unique privilege of having built a custom Art car from a retired police car. The B -Body and G body are essentially the same chassis with and extra 10inches of length added behind the drivers seat. I used a complete harness and all amenities from the Fleetwood in the Caprice. So I have run through the entire harness and merged. That power drain of 5mA is the delayed accessory buss controller pull the module and check again. However it never caused a battery drop below 11 volts for me so I always started. I was using a Optima Red that is kind of like a battery backup battery in it's discharge curve. If you had 8VAC on the battery during running there was probably a drain through the same bad diode module not measured. The cop cars came with a larger 138A alternator and a different drivers side bracket to support the big alternator with the heated front windshield option for the L91 caprice this bracket and alternator can be had from dealer as recent as monday a week ago. It uses a longer belt as well I installed one on my suburban. Also that noise in the AC is called slugging I worked for PRO at that time and we had hundreds of complaints but just replaced the compressors during the warranty rather than issue a bulletin. What the issue is , there are two versions of the R4/R11 compressor the R11 has about 50% more displacement but physically the same size. The larger evaporator on the Fleetwood and second Rear AC on Escalade and Suburban causes liquid to be present on the suction side of the compressor when using a R4 in place of an R11. Hense slugging and compressor failure. If you have the noise then you have a couple of options On g-Body you can swap out the evaporator with a B-body on the GMT400 Escalade and Suburban they went to a Sankyo compressor in 1996 junk yarding can find the complete bracket set , hoses and pulleys for about $150 the Compressor for 60 on amazon
    2 points
  5. Not sure what they did to check your alternator out, but assuming they checked to ensure it is charging properly, then the problem may be that the connection to the circuit to drive the light is faulty? Here is my thinking: If we think the alternator output is dropping as the engine revs (opposite of what one might expect), then we need to check to see if that is true or not. If it is true, then look for faulty connections, check the alternator output, and check the drive belt is not slipping. If it is not true, and the output is fine, then we need to think about why the warning light is blinking, and check that circuit.
    1 point
  6. There is room for both engine types in autos. As an engineer, I see turbines as the best technology for long-haul 18-wheelers and even trains, but turbines have obvious carbon-capture problems. Trains have used diesels with electric motors powering the drive wheels since 1924, and turbines driving the generators are the obvious modern design. For short trips, stop-and-go, plug-in electric is the obvious choice, with some competition from PZEV turbo four-cylinder engines which have decades of development behind them. For the near term, I see plug-ins and hybrids as becoming dominant in consumer vehicles that are used in town 99% of the time, combustion engines for commercial trucks that run all day, and diesels and diesel-electric hybrids for long haul trucks. I don't mention turbines because turbines have never found a niche in the automotive world. Sports cars are a separate consideration, and there are many kinds of sports cars, so the drivetrain technology will likely fork, too. All-electrics have the edge in drag racing, for example, and you will not see an all-electric entry in a 500-mile race anytime soon.
    1 point
  7. Wow.....I'm about to pull the trigger and buy the wheel mounting machine too. Be done with those fools at the tire stores. Now 3 cars........all 3 riding better than they ever have! So 12 wheels so far. Couple of interesting things.... 1 bent wheel. Bad enough I will have to replace or repair it before putting new rubber on. It's on the back for now. 2 wheels that had no weight at all. No witness tape marks or anything. Of course they are good now with weight. Lengthy review of the stuff by someone else (not me).....great pics. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/at-home-tire-machines-my-experience-with-derek-wea/170332/page1/
    1 point
  8. If it is the torque convertor I have seen mysterious higher than normal fluid levels. I had 2 90s ones that had this code, both would have higher than normal fluid level. (I know because nobody touches them but me). I would pull the level back down to normal and within 6 months it would be overfull again. No contamination. I put over 20k miles on my 96 with the code. It started coming on about once every 2 weeks, to eventually it never went away. Would not pass NYSI because of it. I would have to drive it in a way to not trigger the light. This may sound really weird but I have had enough of these over time and feel them very well... I avoid driving around 40mph. I know this may sound weird but the TCC locks up at 41mph. If you drive it around that speed alot the TCC will be working alot. So hard to explain but I have 2 right now and one has 170k, the other has 130k. Both original trannys. I always avoid that speed that TCC lockup starts. Newer vehicles have a variable lockup for the TCC. I assume yours is still a on/off style like mine. How often does the problem occur?
    1 point
  9. If the TCC, torque converter clutch, does not engage your transmission will run hotter and eventually could cause other problems (you are also losing efficiency). The code is for torque converter circuit; so maybe a wiring issue or a bad clutch solenoid. Here's just one link (there are others): P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off DTC (obd-codes.com)
    1 point
  10. I believe the mirror positions are 'remembered' as part of the seat position settings. Perhaps try correctly positioning the side mirrors, then re-saving (re-setting) the seat memory?
    1 point
  11. When they sound out of time.....they are often are. Sounds like something may be coming loose or failing in the timing chain system. Maybe off brand chain? Bunch of work.....but a lot cheaper to go in and look now. Curious.......Is the engine sipping some coolant? Maybe coolant is getting in to a cylinder. Why Big Serts? Why not the standard inserts?......Time Sert or the other ones? (I cant think of the name) Hopefully not Heil-Coils.
    1 point
  12. sonjaab

    Possible BCM failure?

    Left side DONE! All guages, chimes, lights, HVAC ops. work! PHEW!.............Need a couple cold ones now!
    1 point
  13. sonjaab

    Possible BCM failure?

    Well I drove to Rochester and got the used CCC and plugged it it. BCM cost $45 IT WORKS! FDC and CCC all lit up and working! Rain today so have the car in garage so I can put the dash back together.
    1 point
  14. Just ordered new shocks for the CTS! Here’s an active code for 5% off till 9/30. MMAUG55
    1 point
  15. That price is a bit optimistic; actually, comical. 😅
    1 point
  16. Sounds like you have your hands full. Makes me recommend checking the plugs to the rear hub assemblies. The plug sits between the Air shock and the back of the hub. Last resort if all checks good is to remove and re seat the plug at the EBTCM. I would not trust the key issue if the code is still current. I would have it bypassed if not interested in repairing the wiring or ignition cylinder. All that needs to be done is to cut the wires under the column and install a resistor that matches your pellet resistance between the 2 wires. The system will be happy and always see the proper resistance. There is tons of info on the web regarding it.
    1 point
  17. The Climate Control Module is used on Sevilles and Devilles but not Fleetwoods. On Fleetwoods the CCM is the Central Control Module (thanks GM) and is located in the trunk on the support behind the rear seat (left of center). On 95s and 96s, the TDM (Theft Deterrent Module) is incorporated into the CCM, Central Control Module. In 95s and prior the TDM was a separate module under the 3rd brake light. The CCM, Central Control Module's job is to control lighting, security and to evaluate the resistance of the key that is in the ignition. If that resistance is what it is expecting it sends a signal to the PCM, Power Control Module, under the hood, saying "all good, start the engine". (Until that signal is received, the injectors are turned off) Those screenshots above are what Cardone requires to be done when you install one of their re-mans. It programs the unit for the resistance of the key in use. What I am trying to figure out is if that re-learn process will work on one taken out of a wrecked car. In other words, does Cardone flash it with the necessary code or is it there on all of them? Darn things are not cheap. Found one 150 miles away that would have cost 160 bucks, shipped, but the next day they told me they no longer had the key (someone bought the entire column). That key was going to give me my "plan B" in case the re-learn process was a fail. (measure resistance, buy a blank that matches, go to ACE and cut the blank to match my key) Those blanks are readily available on EBAY. There are 14 or 15 different varieties, difference being the resistor value. But I am not gonna throw 160 bucks at it to end up with a matching pair of paperweights. I tried negotiating with them for the one with the missing key but they would not play so I said "See ya". I cannot find a definitive answer on the internet to the question "Will the re-learn work on any Central Control Module, used, re-man or new?" Thanks for your input. If you find out more than I can, I owe you a beverage. All those details I have described above are not from some tremendous box of details in my head. It is from reading billions of articles and blogs on the internet. My wife says the car just refuses to be fixed. LOL. I do look forward to hearing back!
    1 point
  18. First off Welcome to CaddyInfo. How was the system bled? Pump noisy or quiet? I typically jack up the front end after a Power steering repair, Keep the fluid topped off as I turn the steering wheel lock to lock(engine not running) Once fluid level does not drop and wheel has been cranked a few times I then start the engine and let it run for a minute. Shut it off. Top off if needed. Air tends to be harsh on the system so removing the air needs to be done carefully. I have seen new pumps fail from too much pressure (Air in system). If you have it when it is cold then I am thinking internal leak. Once fluid warms up it will fail to pump.
    1 point
  19. OK Folks... Time to revive this thread for a sequel. Recap: I had found a substantial drain of 1.7 A on the power lock circuit and a bad diode in the alternator causing 8+ ACV showing across the battery and potentially allowing "leakage" back into the car. Replaced the alternator and the AC went away and so did the drain on the power lock circuit. Whew, problem solved. Well not quite... After replacing the alternator it took 6 days for the battery to go dead. I whipped out the old fashioned hydrometer and every cell tested dead, even after a full charge. OK, all that AC voltage smoked the battery. I can believe that considering the guy at the parts store commented that I'm lucky that much AC didn't damage electronics. Off to Advance Auto for a battery I go. They tested the battery and said it was good. I debated that point and they debated the remarkable technology in their testing equipment. Then I told them to put a battery in anyway. Got home and whipped out that hydrometer again. Every cell in the new battery tested alive and well. I was satisfied. Let's see what happens. Since then the battery still dies. It can take a week or it may take 2 weeks but eventually, it is dead. Been hands off for the last few weeks cuz I am tired of it. lol. (I hear ya Rockfangd). Finally over the last week I got back into it. Put the DMM in series on the negative battery terminal and looked at the draw after the a 10 minute wait for the systems to all shut down. It fluctuated between .13 and .14 A. I pulled fuses to see where the culprit was. I pulled the CCM BAT fuse and it fell to 0 - .01A. Replayed a few times to be sure and to allow time for a beer or two to go away. Got my culprit. BTW. Take a look at the numbers I posted at the start of this thread. CCM BAT was the 2nd highest draw at 135 mA. Nice to know some things don't change. I am on the hunt for a CCM now as I believe it either has a short or some component inside has failed and it is activating something, likely in the security system and maybe even those door locks, running the battery down. It is an awful complicated mess as it involves the ignition key with the resistor in it and the CCM being programmed to expect that resistance. So I am in for fun and games when I do find a CCM. I may have found one. I will know tomorrow (8/4/21). The deal hinges on whether they can provide me the key to the car. Thanks to the internet, I have seen pics of the car and the key was in the ignition and bent. So I hope they don't try to fool me. The car was in a wreck and I don't think the driver fared very well unless they were real short. Looks like it drove under a semi and became a near convertible. I can measure the resistance of that key and buy a couple matching blanks and have them cut as a copy of my current key. As far as buying a CCM goes? Not happening. GM quit producing them at least 15 years ago (wouldn't want to pay that anyway). Cardone used to re-man them but they have none. And man, they are near impossible to find in a boneyard. And then you have the key hassle. I talked to Cardone and if I was able to get one from them I would have to put it through a learning procedure after installation. It takes 30 minutes and involves crazy gyrations of turning the key on and off repeatedly etc. But the end result is that in the process the CCM learns the resistance of the ignition key and you don't need to replace the key. I managed to extract a document out of them explaining that process so I got those goods. I could not get out of them if that relearn will work on any CCM or if they flash the ones they re-man with the code to make that possible. I will attach that document here for whoever is unfortunate enough to have the same problem. I also talked to the local Caddy dealer. They had to have a séance to ring up a tech old enough to be familiar. Got a whole bunch of "maybe's" and a possible price tag of 3 to 6 hundred dollars for me to bring them the car, new parts, old parts and permission to spend hours figuring it out. No thanks but I think I got what I was looking for. Listening in between the words I heard him say that some systems need to be flashed, some have a re-learn process and others need to be opened up and cannabilized. Well, I know there are 3 possible systems. I know mine is the "Passkey II" system and I know the Passkey II is the one that uses the relearn procedure. So, I think, if I have to buy a used one with no key I can do the re-learn and teach it my original key's resistance. I think being the key words... Now that I have made you guys read this book my question for you is: Can anybody tell me if they have seen the CCM BAT circuit pull current when the car is off and powered down and it WAS NOT the CCM itself? Side note: All wiring I have looked at is pristine. I have not found a damaged wire yet and have been inside 2 of the doors and all but removed the CCM during the process of looking at grounds and/or signs of wear or damage. Good grief. File size limits prevent me from attaching a 4 page pdf file. I am putting page 1 here and will see if it will let me put the rest in subsequent messages. If not, this will just be a tease. Feel free to email me directly and I will send you the whole 4 page doc! Again, my question for you is: Can anybody tell me if they have seen the CCM BAT circuit pull current when the car is off and powered down and it WAS NOT the CCM itself? Thanks folks! RC
    1 point
  20. That 5v reference code makes me think there is a pinched sensor wire somewhere. Just a hunch. I assume that was not there before all the work was done. Very rarely is the ECM or PCM at fault. (On GMs...) I highly recommend doing a thorough inspection of all what was touched. A harness may be improperly routed, pinched, etc... There may be a loose hose or a cracked, mis seated gasket. A gasket that may be improperly installed. I realize this can make you nuts. Been there
    1 point
  21. The 5 volt code is worrisome.....but some other things to check. Pretty sure that car is not using a throttle cable. But is a drive by wire. There are (2) throttle position sensors in the throttle body (TAC).....and one is in the gas pedal. The p2135 code will put the car in 'reduced power mode' and send a display message to the IPC. Not sure if there is a repair for the throttle body TPS sensors.....you might have to replace the complete unit.
    1 point
  22. So the last couple of weeks the car sometimes wont crank when you turn the key. Just replaced a bad battery a few weeks ago but the problem was happening before and now after the new battery.. Current codes, IP-B2510 Steering Wheel Controls HVAC Key Stuck.. And IP-B2511. Steering Wheel Controls Conv Key Stuck. Most times if you turn the key a couple times it'll start. Tried changing ignition key with the spare and still does it. Hoping it's not the starter. Security light goes out so I'm assuming not the security system. Also, there are two red cables hooked to the positive side. One is good and tight but the other isn't. It's tight, but not enough to where I can't move it some. What are the two cables to? Starter is one but what's the other? Thanks!!
    1 point
  23. Was kind of miffed not being able to find it under 1998......tried 1999 Deville.....voila...there it is. Looks like one of the following.... Steering wheel buttons are binding, sticking or broken. If nothing obvious you would need scan tool to check those...not AutoZone scan tool. A bad steering column SIR coil. A bad IPC. Damaged wires inside the steering column or in the harness somewhere.
    1 point
  24. 😁 Welcome back. Feel free to send some pics. Those are tanks. Good luck with it. No pics. So sad
    1 point
  25. These cars wouldn't hold a candle to my '89 Brougham. I have people who want my Cad all the time. What a ride!!
    1 point
  26. The controls for the climate control are the same for either engine for the 1992-1994 Seville. I have marked the buttons with their functions. If you have an owner's manual, they are also in there. If you don't have one, there are several websites that you can download a digital copy, if you want one.
    1 point
  27. EJJE This is how to access and clear codes on your Eldorado. No OBD scanner is needed. To Access Codes Switch ignition ON. Simultaneously press and hold the A/C control panel ‘OFF’ and ‘WARMER’ buttons . When all segments of the display illuminate: o Release the A/C control panel ‘OFF’ and ‘WARMER’ buttons. Trouble codes will be displayed on the driver information display. Trouble codes will be displayed in ascending order. NOTE: All ECM codes start with the letter ‘P’. Trouble codes for other systems may also be displayed. All current trouble codes end with the letter ‘C’. All history trouble codes end with the letter ‘H’. If no ECM trouble codes are stored, ‘NO E CODE’ or ‘NO P CODE’ will be displayed. NOTE: If ‘NO E DATA’ or ‘NO P DATA’ is displayed there is a communication problem between the ECM and the instrument panel. • When all trouble codes have been displayed: o Press the ‘AUTO’ or ‘DEFOG’ button or switch ignition OFF. Erasing Switch ignition ON . Simultaneously press and hold the A/C control panel ‘OFF’ and ‘WARMER’ buttons. When all segments of the display illuminate: o Release the A/C control panel ‘OFF’ and ‘WARMER’ buttons. • Trouble codes will be displayed on the driver information display. NOTE: Pressing and releasing the ‘LOW’ button will bypass trouble code display. • When all trouble codes have been displayed: o Press and release the ‘LOW’ button until ‘PCM’ is displayed. Press and release the ‘HI’ button. Press and release the ‘LOW’ button until ‘PCM CLEAR CODES’ is displayed. Press and release the ‘HI’ button. ‘PCM CODES CLEAR’ will be displayed for 3 seconds. Press the ‘AUTO’ or ‘DEFOG’ button or switch ignition OFF.
    1 point
  28. Good news, found the problem. So simple, can't believe it. The air intake hose that connects to the air filter box was partially off and, obviously, the clamp wasn't screwed tight. I had recently checked the air filter and remember being distracted with several other things, then when back to finish the job, obviously I didn't notice this hose & clamp were loose before closing the hood. Properly secured it and tightened the clamp, have driven the car several times since and all symptoms are gone.
    1 point
  29. HI ALL NEW TO THE FORUM I am about to start on a rebuild of my Seville STS. The items to be done or redone are as follows. I have an extreme stress job all mental so build the next two cars is my physical release of stress. To start with I have a blown gasket and a collapsed lifter. My spouse continued to drive the car and cracked the transmission cooler in the radiator flooding the engine with trans fluid and the trans with coolant. So pretty much toast. I have previously upgraded the brakes with Stage III Power Stop rotors and pads works nice but after sitting they require resurfacing. I will be making a polisher to do this as in my home state service providers are afraid of recutting rotors especially when they are drilled. Back in the 1980s I worked for GM as a DCS tech and forensic specialist out of Corvette Action Center and PRO. We had severe issues in Florida with the early Lumina brake systems warping rotors and chattering I designed a KentMoore tool similar to the Jaguar inboard brake resurfacer it uses #m polishing pads rather than cutting bits to resurface the rotors on the car. Pretty simple device bolts to the brake caliper mounting flange and uses air motor right angle grinders with spirolock pads. I have a couple of body issues one is the drivers side back door welt is rusting through under the welt so I will document how to do a simple resign repair, not bondo but epoxy. The roof channels have leaked on the electric top since I bought the car new. I am removing the electric roof completely and replacing with a simple after market sun roof with lift out panel. I will be trimming the interior to fit with factory styling. Because of the roof leak I have several issues in the interior one is a pretty bad case of mildew. Having restored flood damaged cars in the past I intend to use a Ozone generator to bleach the whole interior for several days. The factory material will be placed with flocked marine canvas and composite leather cloth. I found a great manual shoe stitching machine on Amazon that does a great job at sewing leather. I converted a L91 Caprice police car to a G body Fleetwood interior a few years ago was my main driver for 8 years. The interior stuff is always fun because GM tried to provide common tooling for many of it's vehicles and most mountings are common across many car lines. Not really happy with the Dash on this model I will be building a custom gauge cluster and navigation center using standard desktop PC components and linux open source software. The seats are functional but need leather replacement and due to my illness my back has a tendency to tweek on hard turns so I will be setting a pair of racing buckets into the build. If people need seat parts I will have two working units available. Since the roof leak was mainly in the drivers side A pillar the electrical seems to have been damaged so not bothering to repair it I will be replacing the whole thing with a new custom harness. The suspension was upgrade a few years ago with all new urethane bushings and aftermarket shock absorbers with level ride maintained I will document that process for the build as I will be removing the factory magnaride completely and replacing with a simple arduino based controller. This model of seville squatted nicely when over 90MPH and the ride stiffened greatly the after market struts have air ride built in and are actually stiffer so I have in mind a air valve control that will squat the car and keep it stiff all the time. The engine carriage mounts have already been up graded to urethane and HDPE I will document the process of making the mounts it is actually pretty simple. I paid someone to replace the transmission when I became ill thinking that I would bounce back quicker than I have so I will be building the jack and stand system to drop the carrier without the over head lift. Once the front body work is removed from these chassis they easy to work on. Many struggle needlessly to avoid dropping the carrier. A couple of weld up scissor stands and a porta power will get the car 36 inches off the ground lifted from the body welts on the sides. The carrier comes out as you lift the body with a weld up dolly it takes about 2 hours to pull the whole assembly. The transmission is a simple bent version of a 4L80E same parts mostly with a heavy chain. The differential will be upgraded to a mini locker like the ones used in the 7 5/8 rear of any GM they cost about $250 it makes some noise when making sharp turns but for HotRod use it stops the crazy unpredictable torque steer when accelerating hard. The week point on these transmissions is the 3-4 apply band and housing the after market has case repair kits for the GMC K series trucks that work in this trans. Another company TCI makes an upgrade kit for sprags and drums clutches and all for the 4L80E that works in this trans. I have not seen a decent High Capacity oil pan for this so I may need to weld one up. The front pump is essentially the same as a 4L80E so I will pick up a stahl convertor once I figure my torque peek. My engine has suffered the dreaded over heat than code 300 sporadic miss for years WOT usually cleared it out but after the last run it has an audible noise that matches the miss. Compression is good so I think it is probably a collapsed hydraulic cam adjuster. If it is a core shift in the head I will be documenting how to weld the bore and rebore a new. I am also planning on putting a turbo on this build or maybe a M122 eaton I have to get and accurate pattern for the difference between the XLR heads and the STS heads if there is a difference maybe someone hear knows. I will look at machining the adapters if practical if not turbo it will be. I plan to redesign the exhaust manifolds for this car either way the rear one is basically a modified log manifold. So if I go turbo it will be a mandrel bent log style manifold with a scavenging front pie wedge triY setup. The block will be either timesert or I saw a guy who makes larger studs for these engines I will inspect once apart and determine what course to take. As I am going to boost the engine I plan to add piston bottom oil cooling to help prevent lean burn through. Used it on many of my previous builds using diesel engine main bearing squirter inserts it works nicely. As I am boosting and planning on running at Higher RPM I will be looking at methods to stabilize the lower block main caps I can machine steel 4-6 bolt caps or simply girdle the whole bottom of the block I have to look at the webbing in the casting to determine whats needed. The pistons are pretty good in these motors is the originals still look good I will lighten them up and plate the tops with nickel the skirts will be coated with Tungsten Disulfide as I have about 4 Kilos of the stuff in my one blasting cabinet. I may select some after market rods once I get some accurate dimensions for them PCE in Australia has a bunch of nice H-beam rods that I have modified for strange builds in the past. As for the electronics I will be using my own fuel management system I have a couple of threads on other forums covering the fuel systems I have built. My Goal is to produce about 750 crankshaft HP dropping the car down into the 12 second realm. With a mild street presence. To do so either the M122 or turbo intake manifold will change so I may lower the engine in the cradle or put a cowl on the hood. It will be a fun build I will keep lots of photos and probably some how to videos. I figure about twenty or so commercial products will come out of this build so it will get rid of my aggression and please the wife on Total cost involved. This is my 50th year of Heavy automotive engineering and actually still love building hotrods. Also this is my 17th Cadillac Hotrod starting out with a 472 powered 1972 Chevy Impala with a complete funeral car Caribou interior and trim transplant. Tubbed rear wheels before they became cool. My favorites are the 9 Cadillac Cameros for racing. The guys called the Cadillac motors boat anchors but they started out over 300Hp and with shipyard blowers hit 700-900 easily. Look forward to having some fun.
    1 point
  30. Flipped the car around and got distracted with another motor build finished up Wednesday. It was pretty fun the guy has a 1977 lasaber with a 1950s style Mexican tuck and roll leather interior completely in purple with white stitching not my style but absolutely beautiful. The tear down on his junk yard motor revealed a 1980s top of the line 355 build. 2256 pistons lightened rods ,internally balanced rotating assembly, old big valve smog heads. Measuring it was great everything was done to the style in 1984. Back at that time I raced Nascar and some of the old tricks have been done to this motor. To lower rotating stiction and friction top builders would bore the cylinders with a few thousands taper tight on top of stroke loose on bottom. The block was decked down allowing the top land of the piston to be out of cylinder by .030in then they used old perma torque .070 gaskets to space the quench area perfect. Cam bearing journels on the center three had been oversized to true a shifted cam bore after the cylinders had moved with seasoning. Four bolt mains non splayed steel caps. Pan skirt milled down .025 for old style block girdle. Screw in rear cam plug pinned freeze out plugs. The heads are smog heads with 119cc chambers un relieved intake ports not matched, bronze sleeved instead of bronze guides. oring seals no umbrellas. I built the motor back a little different. I chamfered and cross drilled the crank oil holes, Fit Total Seal Zero gap secondaries and Ductile top rings pistons and block only needed minor cleanup. I used a .040 stainless ringed graphite head gasket. Heads I milled down the valve guides for modern teflon silicon seals and to allow larger lift. Cleaned up the shortside radius on intake and exhaust ports, tear dropped the guide bosses in pocket, ground a tulip on the valve head to stem transition. Cleaned all of the sharp edges out of the combustion chambers and unshrouded the valve to pocket to 5/16 all around. Matched the gasket on the intake ports opened up the pushrod holes to 7/16 holes, removed the 3/8 studs and installed 7/16 with stainless cast 1.6 roller rockers. Valve springs open at 380LBS closed at 200lbs. Set a Stage 3 cam .496 lift 305/290 duration 108 at 103 centerline. Motor sounds solid should make 375HP at the wheel. I will post a video on starting it on the floor.
    1 point
  31. Got it. Thanks Bruce. I will look that up and shop around. So, I put a new battery in the DMM as Rockfangd suggested and redid the diode test. Good call Rockfangd! It read 8.2 AC volts across the battery. Reading up on the ramifications of that and it seems clear to me the first step needs to be a new alternator. Showing that AC voltage (more than .5V) indicates a blown diode in the alternator. When the car is running it just results in dirty power. But when it is shut off, the blown diode will allow current to backfeed throughout the car wherever it can go. Last night a neighbor came over and we were hanging out in the garage. The Caddy was outside with the hood up. After about 10 minutes the under hood light turned off. As it should. But after 30 seconds or so, it came back on. Rinse and repeat. Totally made me more suspicious of the alternator theory and the retest today nailed it. Obviously all kinds of circuits are getting wake up calls when the accessory power is supposed to be off. So I can't trust the results of any of the circuits the voltage drop test pointed to. If the problem persists after the alternator replacement I will revisit that and hopefully I will have landed that manual Bruce mentioned, by then. I know some of you guys don't need all these details but I put them here for others that may be searching for the same problem one day. Sorry. 🙂 And besides. I have been driving and repairing cars for a long time now and this the first time I have seen a bad alternator function for at least 5 years. It was about that time when I had another situation where I had to rely on that 10 minute accessory power cut off (a whole 'nother saga involving the security system and a body shop that was sloppy) so I know for a certainty it is supposed to go dark after 10 minutes with the key off. Not go dark and then come back alive like I saw last night. Thanks guys. I will drop a note here when I have the alternator in place and report if it was the fix. Again, for reference for the readers out there. Hope so at 300 bucks! AC Delco. It is on order and will be here on 5/4. I'd rather drop 300 bucks than tear into the doors anyway! Fingers crossed. RC
    1 point
  32. Just FYI... I did find an applicable code on this website through a search: https://www.extrabux.com/en/coupons/detail/6244494.html I will post an updated code once I receive my shocks and another offer from Rockauto. 👍🏻
    1 point
  33. If I ever win on lottery I'm going to get me a V16. Only two car manufacturers ever produced a V16 engine for a commercial vehicle, Cadillac and Marmon. Cadillac made two designs! The solution at the time to get smooth power delivery and few gear changes
    1 point
  34. With the coolant full, start the engine with the tank cap removed. If air and smoke continually purge from the surge tank I am going to assume you have a head failure. Did this happen suddenly, or occur gradually over time? Does exhaust smell sweet? Does coolant smell like exhaust? Sorry for so many questions but specific questions narrow down things quicker If what you describe is accurate it sounds like it is severe. Love the 96. Still my favorite year Welcome To CaddyInfo. How long have you owned it? Miles? Condition?
    1 point
  35. This is a little too much kumbaya (for me); how about some 'show stopping' electric range. I see where they are going, but 'transportation' should be apex.
    1 point
  36. Pretty good review, nice vehicle (would have liked a mention of MSRP); but overall, fine.
    1 point
  37. Nothing really there except the catalytic converter and the exhaust pipe. That may explain the O2 sensor. I think all the EVAP lines are out at the sides of the car. If the SES lamp stays off after a 100-150 miles or so after clearing codes..... The system is ok. Sounds like they look at a scan tool and kind of make it up as they go. Most data on a scan tool would be Greek to most folks....sounds like they are really trying to figure out how deep your pockets are. In Tennessee.....they just connect a system and check for codes.....no codes and if your readiness monitors are ok you pass. All drive thru....no hoist...no visual inspection. If the SES lamp is on.....there should be codes. Sounds like it would certainly be worth your time investing in a $100 cheapo OBDII scan tool.
    1 point
  38. Thats odd. It seems the 2010 STS is compatible with the 2008 CTS, but not listed for the 2008 STS. Where is it damaged? I doubt it is repairable due to the constant movement and flexing. See if you can get the part# from the dealer so it can be crossed
    1 point
  39. The column is locked - I can't move the shift lever out of park as the key won't go all the way in to unlock the column. The column being locked presented a problem as I couldn't rotate the steering wheel to access the airbag release clips. I was able to remove the lower column shroud and depress the lock pin with a right angle pick enough to rotate the steering wheel enough to access the airbag clips. The center airbag is out and the steering wheel is ready to be pulled. My puller is for the old style Saginaw columns that have threaded holes for the puller. This one takes the type that uses j-bolts so it's off to one of the parts stores to borrow a puller. My plan is to get the lock cylinder out tonight and get a new one ordered tomorrow morning. Even if I were to free the existing cylinder, my fear is that it would act up again at a more inconvenient location or distance from my house.
    1 point
  40. One of the most popular engine swaps for early hot rodding has to be the early Cadillac OHV engines. The 331 was first released in 1949 and was used in hot rods almost immediately. The first generation of engines are almost identical and a vast majority of the parts swap between. Cadillac's were known for making good power and torque stock and were quite smooth running engines.
    1 point
  41. Pretty good interview (I learned some stuff). I almost aborted when the interviewer spent almost 10 minutes on sounds and noise, and while certainly important, I don't think this was an apex question on a brand new car. And on this, the interviewer supplied too much commentary prior to finally getting to asking the question (almost showing-off) on how much she knew. Kudo's to to Jamie Brewer, Chief Engineer as being as transparent as she was allowed to be. And her comments at the end, defining her work and status as a female engineer in the automotive field were spot on (saying she held parity with all the engineers and represented as the best engineer she could be and leaving gender aside).
    1 point
  42. This catch-up post was a lovely Christmas present for the Forum; thank you for posting. I would love to have a roadster to tinker with along with my ATS-V, but will have to wait for the right one to come along. Good luck in your Garage search.
    1 point
  43. My '05 Deville had the airbag light on and a SDM B0101 CURRENT code. It just happened one day a few weeks ago when I backed it out of the garage to wash it. I store it winters and have put less than 1000 miles on it this driving season. The shop manual defined the code as "front impact sensor discard". The manual concentrated on the SDM B0100 which is an opened sensor and there was not much information on the B0101 code. I figured the sensor was shot but the retail price of the sensor is $220.00 - I decided to remove the sensor from my wife's 2004 Deville and install it in the '05 to see if the code went away. The sensor is mounted on a crossmember behind the radiator - the splash shield needs to be removed to access the bolt. It wouldn't budge so I abandoned the idea - if something went wrong and the sensor got damaged, I'd be buying two of them... I decided to take the sensor out of my car and plug it into the '04 to see if the SDM B0101 code set on the '04. No luck - I broke my T-30 torx driver socket. I thought if I unplugged the sensor and the SDM B0101 changed to history and the SDM B0100 code set, there was a good chance the sensor was bad. Sure enough that is what happened. I used to order parts from Brasington Cadillac in Florida - great prices and the parts were delivered to my door in three days. They became Palm Chevrolet Cadillac and are now Davis Chevrolet Cadillac. Long story short - they don't discount parts anymore. I ordered one from gmpartsgiant.com for $159.00. It arrived Monday and I immediately noticed the screw was a left hand thread! The service manual made no mention of that! I attempted to remove the screw from the old sensor but it would not budge - even after removing the radiator support cover and spraying the exposed threads with penetrating oil. I then decided to drill out the screw using a 1/4" drill bit at a low speed to not work-harden the screw. I got just past the bottom of the torx feature and very few chips would generate. That screw was hard as rock. I didn't have a cobalt drill bit so I kept drilling, keeping the drill bit lubed with cutting oil. I got to a point where I was able to get a small cold chisel in there and gave it a whack with a ball peen hammer and the head popped off and I was able to remove the old sensor. A cobalt drill would have made the job much easier. I lubed the screw that came with the new sensor with anti-seize and installed the new sensor and no more code/airbag light. I inspected the old sensor and could not see any cracks or any evidence of water intrusion. I sawed it open and saw a small circuit board - something must've failed on the circuit board. I thought I'd post this as there was very little information on the various forums about the B0101 code and certainly no mention that the mounting screw had left hand threads. If anyone has to change out the sensor on their car, it is a left hand thread so turn it clockwise to remove it. If it won't budge, buy a 1/4" cobalt drill bit and drill the head down to the body of the screw. The cobalt drill bit will make the job much easier.
    1 point
  44. I think the 1995 was the last year of that version. It's not really a radio....it's just a head unit....it needs the amp too. So it may look like a self contained GM style radio....but it's just a head unit. But should be pretty easy to replace. I guess it is 25 years old..so it may simply have died. Be aware there are 'Bose' versions too....can't remember if those would be plug n play.
    1 point
  45. Unfortunately with the covid thing I'm tight on money. If I have to replace it I will do that.
    1 point
  46. If you have a vacuum actuated release you can disregard my last post. In that post i was thinking the 97 Deville had the electric release setup like the 98. The most common problem in the vacuum system release is the shift selector vacuum switch which was usually located on the steering column. Follow the hose that is attached to the vacuum servo at the p-brake assembly, it should go to a vacuum switch mounted on the column or wherever. The ports in the switches don't always align properly preventing the vacuum servo from getting vacuum. I haven't had a 97 column down but the components should be the same. They may have even used the ignition switch on the column to supply power to a vacuum switch when the vehicle is shifted out of park, but there has to be some kind of a vacuum switch at the other end of that hose.
    1 point
  47. Lägg den i ugnen lite lagom varmt - säg max 85grader i några timmar. Elektroniska komponenter brukar tåla en hel del fukt sålänge det inte är salt inblandat. Det jag menar är att kapslingen på en IC krets tål ganska mycket innan det kommer in fukt och dödar silikonchippet. Men det finns femtioelva andra saker. Kolla koder, se om det finns kommunikation mot boxen. Även om det tar ett par dagar för frakten så kolla artikelnummer på boxen (borde stå något på den) och undersök om boxen finns på Ebay i staterna. Köpte en airbag modul till DeVille för 500:- inkl frakt.
    1 point


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