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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/23/2019 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    coolnesss

    Windshield Delaminating

    As it turns out, it's covered by the bumper to bumper warranty which is still in force. The dealer ordered it from Cadillac, but, with the strike in force, they have no idea when it might show up. Thanks!
  2. 1 point
    No worries OldCadTech. Thanks and I agree. The best choices seem to be AC Delco or MSD. I think I am leaning toward MSD. @barczy01 - I pulled the EGR vacuum line and no change. I believe that is as it should be? As far as the coil goes, I will be replacing that as part of the job so... FYI to all - Good vacuum on the distributor vent. No clogged plumbing. Also, there is a distinct rich smell (new symptom) at the tailpipes and it is requiring more cranking to start cold. For anyone with time to burn, here are a couple good videos on replacing the OptiSpark. (What were they thinking?) The 2nd one is a year or two older so it had a spline drive rather than the pin I will find. All else is the same. The 1st video is on a Corvette, the 2nd a Trans Am. I have a ton more room for the harmonic balancer puller. Like almost a foot more. That will be nice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T02OKd4-uOU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJ7lDztK21Y Looks like a fun job. The seals (Video #2) seem to be worth the trouble. My kind of thinking. I do think I will pass on on replacing the intake gasket. Not broke, don't fix it. Anybody got any thoughts about that harmonic balancer hub installation tool? I don't recall ever using anything more than the center bolt or one like it but longer, to pull one back onto the crankshaft. Am I missing something? It has been a few years... Thanks all!
  3. 1 point
    Okay, now that you straightend me out on the optispark system, I was still thinking distributor at the rear of the engine, sorry. The optispark was not as reliable as the regular shaft driven distributor and earned several infamous names. SO, in short, replace the optispark and do the tune up. I think you'll get the smile back!! I'd go reputable, quality aftermarket for the optijunk (oops) Opti-spark......
  4. 1 point
    Cadillac Jim

    Radio just stopped working?

    If you have OnStar, push the black button and ask the lady to read you the OBD codes and write them down and post them here. You can ask her to email them to you, which might be simpler and avoid an error in writing them down. If you don't have OnStar, find and Autozone near you and ask them to read your OBD codes for you. Look at the sticker on the underside of your spare tire compartment cover and write down the RPO codes related to your radio. I would take a cell phone photo of that sticker, which has all your RPO codes, paint numbers, etc., and keep that photo on my computer for reference. The radio codes for the 2007 CTS are (this list may not be totally complete because I just now picked it out of the FSM): UAV Infotainment System 005.1 U2J Digital Audio System S-Band, Not Installed U2K Digital Audio System S-Band U2R Infotainment System 001 U2S Infotainment System 002 U2X Infotainment System 007 U2Y Infotainment System 008 U57 Speaker System 8, Dual F/D Pillar, Dual FRT DR MTD, Dual RR DR MTD, Subwoof PKG Shelf, I/P CTR, Amplif, Bose U66 Speaker System 7, Custom We will need that information to get the right schematics in the factory shop manual (FSM). If you have a Volt/Ohm meter, you can check for power at the radio and a good ground. Power to the radio is through the RD/WH wire, ground is through the BK/WH wire. If you have premium audo (Bose, probably) you have the 30 Amp AMP fuse with power directly to the power amp on the RD/BK wire. If there is more than a small fraction of an Ohm resistance from the BK/WH wire to chassis, check ground G402, which is In the rear compartment, to the rear of the left rear shock tower, below audio AMP.
  5. 1 point
    Just wanted to Thank you for the useful info. Car has been flawless ever since I unplugged them. Have had no problems, parked or driving.
  6. 1 point
    rockfangd

    Not Bad for 23 years old

    My spiritedly driven 97 Deville at its finest. How many people can get 20 mpg out of a 23 year old v8. Even better is that I do not recall adding any oil (Oil life at 2%) What a wonderful ride.
  7. 1 point
    sprucegoose

    Not Bad for 23 years old

    That is pretty cool, a good feeling for sure! πŸ‘πŸ» Especially like you said, with that kind of mpg for a V8! My CTS with a V6 barely squeaks the 21mpg mark. I never let my oil life monitor get that far down though. 30% is my limit with timing chain wear concern. That’s incredible oil use for a Northstar, I’d say you got one that rolled off the line on a Tues. through Thursday! πŸ˜†
  8. 1 point
    Hello all! I am having no success in eliminating the dreaded 'SRC' message on a 1996 Deville (BASE, 4.6-vin y, F41,F45). The original rears were replaced with a set of passive air shocks by the previous owner, the compressor functions and the car adjusts as it should, no problems there. However, the "kit" resistors that appear to have been included for the damper error message cancellation, never functioned correctly and the car would throw rss codes related to the rear, in particular RSS0021, RSS0022, RSS0025, RSS0026 (S021, S022, S025, S026 for all you non-1996 owners reading this) which are short to ground, and open circuit warnings for each rear damper. These codes flip flop between short/open roughly every other time the error shows up. Removing the kit resistors showed open circuit msg's for both rears when the system attempted to engage. Occasionally when driving the SRC msg will display, then turn off after 5 min or so of driving, some trips it never comes on, sometimes it's on at startup. Either way it's getting really annoying. I checked the value of the kit resistors, and they were 2 ohm. Following advice from this forum and others, I tried 4.7k (yes thousand) ohm resistors, to no avail. Several other values, loads and combinations of electrical small components have yielded the same results, which is the error codes remain. Yep, even tried fuel injectors....... My theory is that the CVRSS module detects voltage draw and spikes from the coil moving/returning whatever the mechanical portion of the damper was, but some forum posts say it's PWM driven vs a MOSFET/whatever, so I really can't tell without riding in the trunk with a meter, which isn't going to happen.... I have dropped the electric center in the trunk and checked the specific wires leading to the rear damper solenoids, no short to ground on +, no continuity between +/- damper leads. The OE rear shocks and their solenoids were not included with the car, and the front dampers show 12.7 ohm across the terminals. Replicating this value for the rear does nothing. I went to find a junkyard with the hope of finding a set of rear shocks/solenoids, which only yielded in my returning with some sort of error eliminator from a 1997 car, which did nothing for my 1996. My guess is that the 1997+ cars use a different method to check the solenoids. The relay method for eliminating the system from 94-5 cars does not apply to the 1996, so I'm SOL on that option. Coding out the RSS from the IC doesn't appear to be an option either, as the 1996 OBD2 cluster does not have the possible value combinations (as far as I can tell?). As of yet. Nothing has eliminated the msg and underlying fault being detected by the CVRSS module, and as I have no idea how the unit itself checks the dampers, I can't duplicate a what it needs to see. Has anyone been through this with a 1996 BASE DeVille? Can the RSS error messages be removed from the IC with a tech2 and programming, or is this just another dead end/urban legend? Did someone find some combination of parts that actually functions to eliminate the codes? Thanks in advance for any replies, and sorry if I'm leaving out anything, I have been fighting the SRC msg for 8 months. Yikes... 😞
  9. 1 point
    KHE

    Stabilizer for decaying dashboard

    I use a windshield deflector when my cars are parked outside (when I'm at work) and that has kept the dash like new on my cars. Armor all does have a low gloss formula so it won't give the glare on the windshield. You might try talking to an automotive trim shop - one they may have some idea on what to apply to halt the degradation of the vinyl.