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  1. 2 points
    BodybyFisher

    Remember me?

    @Göran W Ok so I called the following with no luck Www.kanter.com Www.ecklers.com Www.NPDLINK.com Then I called these folks in florida, Convertible Tops Specialist, Inc, they had an ad in Hemmings Motor News, their webpage is http://www.topsdown.com and spoke to Heather. She gets lots of calls for this part and said it does not exist. The part is called a window sweep. Go to their web page and on the left under browse click, weatherstrip-convertible, then click, window sweeps/dew wipes and window channels. In there are many universal window sweeps sold by the foot, you will need to pull yours out and do some measuring and try to match something up. I think that is the best that can be done. Heather said you can email her, call etc. And she said they do ship internationally. I hope this helps you
  2. 2 points
    Jsblkram

    Jsblkram

    I will definitely be checking on this website to keep up with anything going on and help out if I can ???? Said before that I have owned many caddy’s but this is first one I’ve actually worked on. It’s an experience!!!!! Thanks again !!!!!
  3. 1 point
    GoRicky

    Help: 1988 4.5L extreme rich fuel

    Yes - thanks for all of the info & I can sympathize with the distressed owner... I always wanted an Allante' when they were new, but couldn't afford one. I 'brilliantly' picked out a (white) '91 model because of its "great, easy-to-work on" 4.5L V8 (200 HP) engine. I bought it from the original owner w/ 23K mi. I drove it from Colorado to Texas & within 24 hours, I jumped in & moved it to higher ground, because of a 50-year flood & the underside took a beating from debris. I was told 'the oxygen sensor probably got knocked off' & 'no problem'... when my wife saw what a beautiful car it was, she said I WANT ONE, TOO! Luckily, Barrett-Jackson sent me an email, sporting a wonderful (black) 1-owner example w/ only 34K miles, 'everything works' & truespoke wheels; I told B-J I couldn't wait for it to be delivered & it came w/B-J paper floor mats, a tote-bag & other goodies. Both - (1) beautiful, (2) perfect interiors, (3) straight and undented exteriors. The white one has a noticeably thicker ragtop, as the former owner said she shipped the car to CA "you know - to that place that makes/replaces Rolls-Royce ragtops". Happy, Happy, Happy!!: Only thing is - neither one has run right. Not only that, they were NOT perfect with respect to stereo systems, lighted mirrors, batteries, doors hung right, tires, etc... I commenced to having everything fixed (I am not a 'modern' mechanic). I took both to a family-owned mechanic shop I've done business with for 20+ years & told them to do 'complete tuneups' i.e. new filters, hoses, plugs, wires, coolant, lubes, batteries, oil, tires, etc. & gave them the SHOP MANUAL I bought on ebay. Well - pick one up, drive it 2-3 mi. & then engine runs REAL rough & the tranny shifts real hard. At idle, the cars just shake & ca-chug-ca-chug. After taking them back for a THIRD time, I gave up & chugged down the street to another shop that works on everything from tour buses to motorcycles. I now have over $3K invested in each & wouldn't drive either to buy a loaf of bread. They both do the same thing... crank up - YAY! Drive 2-3 mi. & they start missing to the point of even dying in traffic. They still look great & are almost cosmetically perfect , but NEITHER ONE will run for more than 4 minutes before - strangling on fuel? losing the timing setting? I've paid for injectors to be ultrasonically-cleaned & several injectors to be replaced. The last time I put the white one in, I had to have it TOWED. Is there someone in this whole world that is an expert on the 4.5L engines? Should I take it to the Caddy dealer? I am REAL disappointed in these two independent shops. They don't burn any oil & the motors look perfect. HELP! - Thank You!
  4. 1 point
    BUICK11

    Trunk torque springs

    Did not break but would not pop open like it did in the past. they were adjusted to max. Not sure dealer was correct when said discontinued. but glad I found on e bay thanks
  5. 1 point
    What year ? 06-11 they changed the waterpump design an removing the entire pump housing ! It’s bolted to the back side .
  6. 1 point
    tj95eldorado

    Intermittent High Idle Speeds

    I realize this is 7 years old but just want to thank you for this thread. I had the exact same problem, and changing the TPS solved it.
  7. 1 point
    rockfangd

    Slipping drive belt?

    There are too many variables here between the 2 issues. Stiff steering can be caused by tight balljoints, tie rods, strut bearings, weak pump, column bearings (rare) I have never had any issues regarding belt length on these. I usually run a good quality gates or dayco belt. Or ACD when I can find them. Look at your tensioner and see where it sits with tension on it normally, If it is good it should be about half way between each limiter. Have you checked your grounds? That can cause issues as well
  8. 1 point
    I have one if you need it. You're still working on this car?
  9. 1 point
    So... It's been euhm.. well just keep it 'a while' and not do the month thingie, but it's time to post that kinda things are going to be under control Véry slowly but surely the engine is beeing put back together... Awaiting a new dipstick assy from Jake, as the original tube seems to have broken. We had a little set back as one of the alu ears that attach to the block was torn off, probably in the asumed earlier engine swap.. alu-welded it and allsgood.. It's blazing hot here but it seems all my nagging helped in my guy to get moving a bit.. With a little luck i might use the AC on the last moments of summer this year.. not bad after 3 years Hope everyone who joined this post is allright, wishing you well from sunny Amsterdam!
  10. 1 point
    rockfangd

    What a day for a car show.

    Registered this one into a car show today. Was the only E/K platform Caddy. I never really see any in car shows so I feel mine is unique. The only other Caddy was a Fleetwood Hearse. No trophy but lots of ooh and aahs I put the brochures I got compliments of BBF and put out the kudos to our Forum. You could eat off this car. Made my day I would share more pics but for respect of other people I only took pictures of mine 😉 It bears to mention this car is still flawless. There is not one single thing that does not work, down to the last light bulb. Excellent for 23 years old
  11. 1 point
    rockfangd

    Battery issue with my 97 Seville

    Well rest of my trip was flawless. Problem did not reoccur. I will still be replacing the bolts and spacer. I might add that when I replaced the negative cable (AC Delco part) the bolt had stripped before even being tight. Guess this is a telling of the quality of the product. So even though that bolt is already new it will be getting replaced anyway
  12. 1 point
    cdgrinci

    My leather seats

    Yes, and light colors are an extra challenge (and my favorite; I have Cirrus in my XT5). Kudos to you and thanks for sharing your results and experience and I will be coming back to see how the sealer completes the job.
  13. 1 point
    rockfangd

    EVAP Delete

    Really it is not possible unless you can rewrite the computer to not look for it. It is always looking for the proper variable resistance feedback for every component it is testing. The conditions are never the same. there are too many factors. Ambient temp fuel level, and many others
  14. 1 point
    sonjaab

    1992 STS Suspension issue

    You will prob. end up with a passive aftermarket strut. The active OE front struts are long discontinued and $pendy if you find some. You will also have to add the "kit" to shut off the CCR susp. or SES lights that would follow the active to passive strut replacement. Not a difficult job or repair.
  15. 1 point
    rockfangd

    Computer trouble??

    Did you have the battery disconnected while all of the wires were being cut? I hope so
  16. 1 point
    When you say nothing, do you mean you turn the key and the starter does not crank? When this happens do you get ANY messages, related to security? The only code is E046? Please answer these questions, no crank vs crank makes a difference
  17. 1 point
    Kanne

    1955 Rocker arms

    Hi Mike At first (a couple of weeks ago) before I actually started this thread, we installed new valve lifters and mounted the rocker arms with the shims. (because they were there when we disassembled the motor) At first start-up of the engine it made a terrible noise, and we stopped the motor. One push rod had popped out of the lifter and it was bend. We checked the liftes, and found out, that (although they were new) the had were much "slack" at the top piston, where the push rod is placed. We then purchased a new set of lifters from a different manufacturer (Elgin), and they looked much better, (a different construction). We installed the new lifters, replaced the bended push rod, and installed the rocker arms without the shims. Now the motor is running as good as ever. Also when it is warm. So I think we should have left out the shims in the first place. It seem like the engine rebuild is going to be a success. Thanks for all the help. Best regards Per
  18. 1 point
    Bruce Nunnally

    XT-V engines?

    After some thought, I am going on record and predict that the CT4-V 320 hp 2.7L inline 4 is the V-engine for the XT4-V, (up from 243 hp in XT4), and the CT5-V 355 hp 3L Turbo Six is the V-engine for the XT5-V, (up from 310 hp 3.6L V6 in XT5). You heard it here first.
  19. 1 point
    I was thinking the same thing as @barczy01 that is why I said check fuel pressure and listen at the filler to see if you hear it cycle. Thats easy stuff. THEN, if you don't find pressure, then check fuses, relays. Look into barczy01's ground issues thats great info. Here are 2 photos out of your owners manual showing the pump fuse and relay location, the fuse panel is under the seat
  20. 1 point
    B2375 is related to the seat. That is the only code? Check fuel pressure, key on. Have someone sit in car and turn on key while you listen at the fuel fill. It will run about 5 seconds. Don't confuse the fuel pump with the level compressor for the rear suspension. If you dont hear the fuel pump remove and reinstall the fuel pump fuse and relay to reset them. In case they have a corrosion build up of green or white clean them off with electrical contact cleaner. It is very unusual for a crank no start in a situation like this.
  21. 1 point
    PAUL T

    2004 Deville will not start.

    Thanks Mike, I talked to my Cadillac mechanic friend and he said that if the engine numbers (8th digit of VIN) match the starters should and they do. I am hopefully going to get time to take the one out of the 94 this weekend. My father-in-laws 2003 Cadillac Deville is having vacuum problems again. I am suspecting the rubber elbow at the left side of the intake manifold. I changed the plenum a few years back. I had a problem finding that elbow the last time I changed the one on the 2004 some time ago. I ended up buying a bent rubber line the last time. I will check again but may end up going the same route with the 2003. When I tear into the 94 I will have to see if it has the elbow and kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
  22. 1 point
    BodybyFisher

    Remember me?

    Ill do a search for you and make some calls when I find your year and model listed, birddog out, goodnight
  23. 1 point
    BodybyFisher

    Remember me?

    Its not really silence, I am like a bird dog. I called Fairchild no help, I called JC Whitney (usually good for oddball stuff), no help, scoured the internet and came up with replacement part numbers and I continue researching that. I even contacted LMC truck who I recently purchased from for an 89 Chevy C1500 to see if they had any ideas on sources. http://www.lmctruck.com I have not found a Hemmings Motor News yet, but I am still on the case. Do you know if these weatherstrips are snapped in place or affixed with adhesive? You are on my To Do list. Will update as I progress.
  24. 1 point
    rockfangd

    cruise control 97 Seville

    Yay. Today I have success. Problem was at the black plug in the picture. The wire itself at the pin that goes out to the cruise module was bad right at the pin itself. Thus why the pin ohmed good but I still had no connection. Replaced the wires to the plug and voila it works again. The really sad part is that it took me nearly 3 years to get a chance to find the problem. Not hard to fix but when juggling the craziness I live time just flies. Thank you all for the help
  25. 1 point
    sprucegoose

    Jsblkram

    One quick way I figured out to do it with the iPhone. I select the pictures from my album and email them to myself. It will ask you what size do you want to email and select either the small or perhaps the medium size picture. Then save those pictures back to your album and you will have a much smaller size which you should be able to post here. Try posting those just one of those at a time.
  26. 1 point
    Jsblkram

    Jsblkram

    Yes they did refund for defective peice. Thank u for all the info !!!!
  27. 1 point
    sprucegoose

    Jsblkram

    That is great news! It’s always a good feeling when you accomplish a troubling repair like this yourself! 👍🏻 Yes, there are plenty of experienced GM guys here that can help diagnose, narrow down options and even just bounce ideas off of! I’ve had 4 Caddy’s now, and just love them! There is something about the nice balance of style, ride and power! 😎
  28. 1 point
    cdgrinci

    Remember me?

    I did a search and found (I remember this company): Steele Rubber. The had the '89 Caviler convertible listed. Link: https://www.steelerubber.com/search?year=1989&make=chevrolet&model=cavalier&style=2-door-convertible
  29. 1 point
    It is fixed. I dropped the a/c compressor to make it easier to get to the hose. I used 3/4 silicone heater hose. I also replaced the lower hose. I cut it to drain the system so I didn't have to mess with the radiator. I have not had the a/c working and I installed the compressor without the hoses just to avoid trying to find a belt to work bypassing the a/c. It is now just dead heading to keep the stock belt.
  30. 1 point
    BodybyFisher

    Right/Wrong way to recharge AC

    Deleting the code is the right way. Jumping the switch is the wrong way, review the factory service manual. In addition, oil is not needed unless a component is replaced, i.e. compressor, drier, etc, the oil is drained out of the component, measured and the same amount of oil added. Adding too much oil or adding oil willy nilly is not advised.
  31. 1 point
    sprucegoose

    1st Mods to CTS!

    Thanks Bruce, I’m really happy with the improvements! Would’ve liked to have gone with 285 width tire, but couldn’t justify another $60 per tire! 🥴 There appears to be plenty of wheel well space and it would’ve given me a little more rim lip protection. A couple of tips on the caliper painting part of the project... These aluminum calipers polish up nicely, so I used a disc sander and then hand sanded with 220 grit paper to get a nice smooth finish. Also helps to have a vice-grip clamped to the caliper to use as a handle while painting! 👌🏻
  32. 1 point
    I hate to jump in as I am just a shade-tree mechanic but found a video from South Main Auto (does videos on auto problems) and found a NorthStar that had a fuel pressure problem (good pressure but couldn't hold pressure with pump off). It's a 20 minute video with his diagnosis process. May or may not be germane, but here it is:
  33. 1 point
    Well, haven’t fixed it yet but almost certain is rear passenger hub now. When reinstalling that wheel after painting brake calipers it was obvious it had a crunching/grinding noise when turning wheel. Checking records other side was replaced at 96k mi and has 113k now. Its going in Tues. for mounting new tires so I’ll have the shop take care of it. Have no time myself unfortunately and need to have it every day for commute.
  34. 1 point
    The Whelen Engineering Cadillac DPi-V.R came home fourth in today's running of the IMSA WeatherTech SportsCar Championship Acura Sports Car Challenge at the Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course. View the full article
  35. 1 point
    Got it! I wasn’t aware of this! Thank you!
  36. 1 point
    3/4 hose correct
  37. 1 point
    rockfangd

    Doing a little TLC on my Seville

    So today I drove it pretty hard. No codes, no issues. Weird. I will have to see if anything reoccurs. Oh boy she takes off like a rocket though. Love the v8, The Northstar has its own sound unlike any other v8. Have to be prepared for the torque steer though. Can surprise you. Incredibly smooth and tight ride though, amazing for being over 20 years old
  38. 1 point
    @BodybyFisher Thank you ! I think I did another post on the inlet removal a while back???????
  39. 1 point
    The A/c does not have to be evacuated. Disconnect the mounting bolts and let it hang. Clamp and/or hose removal is pretty easy after that. Most of the time it is the inlet leaking but you may be the exception.
  40. 1 point
    barczy01

    Any 4.9 experts? Idle issues

    Check engine vacuum at idle 18-21” with a gauge check the main ground stud and bracket next to the starter motor . Make sure it’s tight and clean isc retracted the tps should be .57 running and set min air with alternator connector grounded to turn alt off. full extended I think the isc is 1.13 I think can’t remember and you adjust the isc plunger screw for full extended adjustment. Engine off on this setting . i have had a harmonic balancer spin and when the mechanic went to set timing it was way off so maybe verify tdc#1 and mark on water pump . The idle learn has to be started I think when the car is fully warmed up . 15 min running and 1 min in drive and 1 min in drive with ac on .
  41. 1 point
    sonjaab

    Bose system aux input

    Check on www.thirdgen.org There is a guy there who adds jacks for bluetooth etc. on factory Delco units. He may be able to help ya.
  42. 1 point
    brmurph

    Bose system aux input

    I just installed this http://www.discountcarstereo.com/blu-gm2.html on my 98 Deville, pretty much plug and play. It turns your system into bluetooth using the CD changer plug (changer will no longer work). I have only had it for a week or two but so far works great and such an easy install.
  43. 1 point
    Only been in the place once to get me a new Hooters t-shirt! With the bus lines running direct from the ghetto to the place and the almost daily violent and petty crimes being commited I will stay away unless I have my pistol locked and loaded! During the heavy snowfalls they usually send guys up on top to shovel it off or deflate the roof to melt it. The Carrier dome with NO air conditioning built into it! LOL! Who said educators had any brains or common sense? DUH! Forgot to say I have been to the dome many times for concerts, SU b-ball and f-ball too! The stairs are a SOB, Seats hard , Parking a PIA, and warm beer and food $pendy but cheap compared to some of the major league parks I have been to ! Seen Santana there as it was the first concert there IIRC!
  44. 1 point
    rockfangd

    Bose system aux input

    I did it on my 1996 and 97s. Was pretty involved. I did mine at the cd changer and used cds with silent tracks. I can get into details if you have a cd changer in the trunk. Not sure on the 95 though. That is the last year for that design. I assume you would have to do it at the amp behind the back seat. You could do it with the cassette. Let me know what you think
  45. 1 point
    Jim27

    Timing Chain Replaced - Special Warranty

    This post very likely saved me $2,100 for the replacement of a timing chain. I took my 2007 CTS into the shop this morning to check out the engine light that had been on for a few weeks. When the shop called me back and told me I needed a timing chain I took to the internet and came across this site. I called GM and within 15 minutes have an appointment at the local Cadillac dealer next Monday morning for them to again diagnose and replace the timing belt under the special warranty. I am within 5 months of the time frame of the 10 year, 120,000 miles since the car was put into service. A big shout out to Logan for posting the link to the Bulletin 11340A which gave me the phone number to Cadillac. Small world, I too am in Franklin TN!
  46. 1 point
    Your replies have been less than helpful and in some cases rude. This is a give and take, we can't help without feedback from you. Example, look at your reply to what I said above, "yes there is TC 0027 and TC 0073"? Well no kidding, it was in your first post. Above you are looking for a single problem causing no 1,.3 and 4 shift, when there could be 2 causes. The point that I and Bruce were bringing up was that a traction control issue CAN INDEED cause second gear starts. You ignore that idea because "the TC light has been on for ages". The 27 alone will cause the message, but 00073?, 0073 is a serious code that turns the traction control light on and turns traction control OFF. I can easily see that causing a second gear start. You may be experiencing 2 separate problems here. I ask for your email, to send you the flow diagrams and you ignore it. OldCadTech shows a picture regarding a TCC valve in the upper control valve body related to the P0741 and you are rude? You seem frustrated, I get that, but you seem to be putting up road blocks and arguing rather than looking for solutions, ie, the traction control light has been on for ages, the torque converter was tested at the dealer, upper valve body, hmm, it says to test the resistance at the solenoid not the plug, etc. First, I have no idea how the dealer tested the torque converter. Do you understand that the P0741 is related to slipping torque converter overdrive clutches, slipping causes heat and the clutches to wear and depending upon how long it slipped the clutches are permanently damaged. Given that the tranny must come out to replace the torque converter, under no instance would I not replace the torque converter once I saw a P0741 code unless I immediately parked the car after the P0741 code showed up which is unlikely in most cases. It is not likely valve springs, its the valves themselves causing the problem, scored, binding, debris or leaking from wear. The low mileage of the car means nothing. Did the rebiilder disassemble, inspect and clean the valve bodies and was he meticulously clean? Was care taken to be sure the check balls are back where they belong. We have seen members change the shift solenoids and wind up with similar issues. You are making a lot of assumptions that I think are causing you problems try to be OPEN to suggestions. You say you are from Europe, we could be having communication problems as a result along with the time difference. But this type of commumication does not work unless both parties are on the same page. Try to be more open to suggestions and more forthcoming with information, we are trying to help here. Assume nothing
  47. 1 point
    KHE

    Stabilizer for decaying dashboard

    I use a windshield deflector when my cars are parked outside (when I'm at work) and that has kept the dash like new on my cars. Armor all does have a low gloss formula so it won't give the glare on the windshield. You might try talking to an automotive trim shop - one they may have some idea on what to apply to halt the degradation of the vinyl.
  48. 1 point
    dgaouette

    the dreaded heated seat problem

    Here is the TSB for your Deville - Good Luck and have fun Document ID# 1059134 2000 Cadillac DeVille -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Front/Rear Heated Seat Inoperative/Cold (Install Seat Heat Element) #01-08-50-001C - (10/04/2002) Front/Rear Heated Seat Inoperative/Cold (Install Seat Heat Element) 2000-2003 Cadillac DeVille (All Models) with RPO KA1 This bulletin is being revised to update the model year information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-08-50-001B (Section 08-Body and Accessories) Condition Some customers may comment that the front/rear seat assembly heat function is not operating properly. The front/rear seat back and seat cushion remain cold when either the HEAT/OFF switch or the BACK ONLY switch is activated. Cause This condition may be due to a non-functioning heat element in the front/rear heated seat back/cushion trim cover. The heated seat system consists of four heated seats, two in the front and two in the rear. On the DHS and DTS models, each heated seat consists of four heat elements, one in the seat back and three in the seat cushion. On the DeVille model, each heated seat consists of two heat elements, one in the seat back and one in the seat cushion. FIGURE DHS & DTS Seat Heat Element Locations© Location # Part Number Description 1 25715920 Front Seat Back Cushion Heat Element 2 25715921 Front Seat Cushion Heat Element 3 25715924 Front Seat Cushion (LH Thigh) Heat Element 4 25715925 Front Seat Cushion (RH Thigh) Heat Element 5 25715926 Rear Seat Back Cushion Heat Element 6 25715927 Rear Seat Cushion Heat Element 7 25715928 Rear Seat Cushion (LH Thigh) Heat Element 8 25715929 Rear Seat Cushion (RH Thigh) Heat Element FIGURE DeVille Seat Heat Element Locations© Location # Part Number Description 1 25740850 Front Seat Back Cushion Heat Element 2 25740851 Front Seat Cushion Heat Element 3 25740853 RH Rear Seat Back Cushion Heat Element 4 25740852 LH Rear Seat Back Cushion Heat Element 5 25740854 LH Rear Seat Cushion Heat Element 6 25740855 RH Rear Seat Cushion Heat Element Correction Determine which heat element is not functioning properly by measuring the resistance values of the factory heat elements. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic procedure in this bulletin. If the resistance values of a factory heat element are NOT within the specified range, install a service heat element between the non-functioning factory heat element and the seat trim cover. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. DHS/DTS Front Seat Diagnostic Procedure Adjust the front seat assembly to the maximum up and rearward position in order to access the seat cushion fasteners. Remove the fasteners (1) retaining the seat cushion to the seat adjuster. Disconnect the heated seat module harness blue, 8-way connector C2 (2). Measure the front seat back element resistance between cavities G and H. Does the resistance measure less than 10 ohms? If yes, go to Step 5. If no, install a front seat back heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. Important If the resistance is measured with the seat still warm, the resistance may vary outside of the specified range since the thermistor resistance varies with temperature. Measure the front seat back thermistor resistance between cavities E and F. Does the resistance measure between 280 ohms and 300 K ohms? If yes, go to Step 6. If no, install a front seat back heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. Measure the front seat cushion thermistor resistance between cavities C and D. Does the resistance measure between 280 ohms and 300 K ohms? If yes, go to Step 7. If no, install a front seat cushion (center) heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. Measure the front seat cushion element resistance between cavities A and B. Does the resistance measure less than 10 ohms? If yes, the resistance values of the front seat heat elements are within the specified range. To find the cause of the inoperative/cold heated seat, perform the standard diagnostic procedures in the Service Manual. If no, go to Step 8 in order to determine which of the three seat cushion heat elements has a resistance value NOT within the specified range. Remove the front seat assembly from the vehicle. Refer to Seat Replacement in the Seats sub-section of the Service Manual. Remove the trim cover from the front seat cushion. Refer to Seat Cushion Cover Replacement -- Front in the Seats sub-section of the Service Manual. Disconnect the green 2-way connectors between the seat cushion center heat element and the seat cushion thigh heat elements. Measure the LH seat cushion thigh heat element resistance between cavities A and B at the green 2-way connector. Does the resistance measure less than 23 ohms? If yes, go to Step 12. If no, install a front seat cushion LH thigh heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. Measure the RH seat cushion thigh heat element resistance between cavities A and B at the green 2-way connector. Does the resistance measure less than 23 ohms? If yes, install a front seat cushion (center) heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. If no, install a front seat cushion RH thigh heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. DeVille Front Seat Diagnostic Procedure Adjust the front seat assembly to the maximum up and rearward position in order to access the seat cushion fasteners. Remove the fasteners (1) retaining the seat cushion to the seat adjuster. Disconnect the heated seat module harness blue, 8-way connector C2 (2). Measure the front seat back element resistance between cavities G and H. Does the resistance measure less than 10 ohms? If yes, go to Step 5. If no, install a front seat back heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. Important If the resistance is measured with the seat still warm, the resistance may vary outside of the specified range since the thermistor resistance varies with temperature. Measure the front seat back thermistor resistance between cavities E and F. Does the resistance measure between 280 ohms and 300 K ohms? If yes, go to Step 6. If no, install a front seat back heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. Measure the front seat cushion thermistor resistance between cavities C and D. Does the resistance measure between 280 ohms and 300 K ohms? If yes, go to Step 7. If no, install a front seat cushion heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. Measure the front seat cushion element resistance between cavities A and B. Does the resistance measure less than 10 ohms? If yes, the resistance values of the front seat heat elements are within the specified range. To find the cause of the inoperative/cold heated seat, perform the standard diagnostic procedures in the Service Manual. If no, install a front seat cushion heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. DHS/DTS & DeVille Rear Seat Diagnostic Procedure Remove the rear seat cushion assembly (1) from the vehicle. Refer to Seat Cushion Replacement-Rear in the Seats sub-section of the Service Manual. Important If the resistance is measured with the seat still warm, the resistance may vary outside of the specified range since the thermistor resistance varies with temperature. At the rear seat cushion blue, 8-way connector C320 (2), measure the thermistor resistance. For the LH rear seat cushion, measure between cavities C and D. Does the resistance measure between 280 ohms and 300 K ohms? For the RH rear seat cushion, measure between cavities G and H. Does the resistance measure between 280 ohms and 300 K ohms? If yes, go to Step 3. If no, install a rear seat cushion (center) heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. At the rear seat cushion blue, 8-way connector C320 (2), measure the element resistance. For the LH rear seat cushion, measure between cavities A and B. Does the resistance measure less than 10 ohms? For the RH rear seat cushion, measure between cavities E and F. Does the resistance measure less than 10 ohms? If yes, go to Step 8. If no, for DeVille models ONLY, install a rear seat cushion heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. If no, for DHS & DTS models ONLY, go to Step 4 in order to determine which of the three rear seat cushion heat elements has a resistance value NOT within the specified range. For DHS & DTS models ONLY: Remove the trim cover from the rear seat cushion. Refer to Seat Cushion Cover Replacement-Rear in the Seats sub-section of the Service Manual. For DHS & DTS models ONLY: At the LH/RH rear seat cushion, disconnect the green 2-way connectors between the seat cushion center heat element and the seat cushion thigh heat elements. For DHS & DTS models ONLY: Measure the LH seat cushion thigh heat element resistance between cavities A and B at the green 2-way connector. Does the resistance measure less than 30 ohms? If yes, go to Step 7. If no, install a rear seat cushion LH thigh heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. For DHS & DTS models ONLY: Measure the RH seat cushion thigh heat element resistance between cavities A and B at the green 2-way connector. Does the resistance measure less than 30 ohms? If yes, install a rear seat cushion (center) heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. If no, install a rear seat cushion RH thigh heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. Remove the rear seat back assembly from the vehicle. Refer to Seat Back Replacement-Rear in the Seats sub-section of the Service Manual. At the rear seat back LH (1) or RH (2) heated seat module, disconnect the blue, 8-way connector C2. Important If the resistance is measured with the seat still warm, the resistance may vary outside of the specified range since the thermistor resistance varies with temperature. Measure the rear seat back thermistor resistance between cavities E and F. Does the resistance measure between 280 ohms and 300 K ohms? If yes, go to Step 11. If no, install a rear seat back heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. Measure the rear seat back element resistance between cavities G and H. Does the resistance measure less than 10 ohms? If yes, the resistance values of the rear seat heat elements are within the specified range. To find the cause of the inoperative/cold heated seat, perform the standard diagnostic procedures in the Service Manual. If no, install a rear seat back heat element. Refer to the Service Heat Element Installation Procedure in this bulletin. Service Heat Element Installation Procedure If a sublet trim repair facility is used, please provide a copy of this bulletin to the repair shop. Important Before installing the service heat element to the seat trim cover, verify that the resistance values are within the correct range. Refer to the following table. Model Range Description ALL Less than 10 ohms Seat Back Elements DeVille (Base) Less than 10 ohms Seat Cushion Elements DHS & DTS Less than 10 ohms With Seat Cushion, LH & RH Thigh Elements Connected DHS & DTS Less than 30 ohms Seat Cushion Thigh Elements Important DO NOT attempt to remove the factory heat elements from the seat trim cover. The service heat element is to be installed between the factory heat element and the seat trim cover. Remove the trim cover with the non-functioning heat element. Refer to the appropriate seat trim cover removal procedure in the Seats sub-section of the Service Manual. Place the seat trim cover on a clean flat surface with the inside facing out. FIGURE DHS/DTS and DeVille F/Seat (R/Seat Similar)© (1) DHS/DTS F/Seat Back Trim Cover -- Inside Out (2) DHS/DTS F/Seat Cushion Trim Cover -- Inside Out (3) Cut-lines (4) Seat Cushion Wiring Harness Cut Locations (5) Seat Back Wiring Harness Cut Locations (6) DeVille F/Seat Cushion Trim Cover -- Inside Out (7) DeVille F/Seat Back Trim Cover -- Inside Out Use a marker to draw in the cut-lines (3) on the non-functioning factory heat element. Refer to the appropriate illustration. Remove the wiring harness from the non-functioning factory heat element. At locations (4) or (5), pull back the tape covering the harness wires. Use a pair of diagonal side cutters to cut the harness wires as close to the factory heat element material as possible. FIGURE DHS/DTS and DeVille F/Seat Back© Important DO NOT start the cut with a jab or poke. At the trim cover edge (2), using a razor blade or an equivalent sharp tool, slice through the factory heat element material along the cut-line until a hole is created. Insert your finger(s) through the hole and lift the factory heat element material (1) away from the trim cover material. Important DO NOT cut through seams. Using scissors and/or a razor blade, continue cutting the factory heat element material along the cut-lines. FIGURE DHS/DTS and DeVille F/Seat Back© Fold back the centers (1) of the factory heat element material. Insert the service heat element (2), with the backing paper side up, between the trim cover material and the factory heat element material. Carefully remove the backing paper from the service heat element. Ensure the service heat element is laying flat. Unfold the centers (1) of the factory heat element material. FIGURE DHS/DTS and DeVille F/Seat Back© Match the edges of the factory heat element material and cover the cut-lines with 3M® Highland™ Cloth Duct Tape, P/N 6969, or equivalent. Ensure the service and factory heat elements are laying flat. On DHS & DTS seat cushion installations: Connect the two thigh heat element electrical connectors to the center heat element. Install the seat trim cover. Refer to the appropriate seat trim cover installation procedure in the Seats sub-section of the Service Manual. On front seat assembly installations: Install the fasteners that retain the seat cushion to the seat adjuster. Tighten Tighten the fasteners to 9 N·m (80 lb in). Place the seat assembly inside the vehicle. DO NOT install at this time. Verify the seat heat function is operational. Complete the seat assembly installation. Refer to the appropriate seat replacement procedure in the Seats sub-section of the Service Manual. Parts Information Model Part Number Description FRONT DeVille 25740850 F/Seat Back Cushion Heater DHS & DTS 25715920 DeVille 25740851 F/Seat Cushion Heater DHS & DTS 25715921 DHS & DTS 25715924 F/Seat Cushion (LH Thigh) Heater DHS & DTS 25715925 F/Seat Cushion (RH Thigh) Heater REAR DeVille LH 25740852 R/Seat Back Cushion Heater DeVille RH 25740853 DHS & DTS 25715926 DeVille LH 25740854 R/Seat Cushion Heater DeVille RH 25740855 DHS & DTS 25715927 DHS & DTS 25715928 R/Seat Cushion (LH Thigh) Heater DHS & DTS 25715929 R/Seat Cushion (RH Thigh) Heater Parts are currently available from GMSPO. Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use: Labor Operation Description Labor Time C7340* RH F/Seat Cushion Heated Seat Component Heating Element-Replace 1.1 hr ADD Diagnosis Time 0.0-0.3 hr C7341* RH F/Seat Back Heated Seat Component Heating Element-Replace 1.5 hr ADD Diagnosis Time 0.0-0.3 hr C7342* LH F/Seat Cushion Heated Seat Component Heating Element-Replace 1.1 hr ADD Diagnosis Time 0.0-0.3 hr C7343* LH F/Seat Back Heated Seat Component Heating Element-Replace 1.5 hr ADD Diagnosis Time 0.0-0.3 hr C7344* RH R/Seat Cushion Heated Seat Component Heating Element-Replace 0.9 hr ADD Diagnosis Time 0.0-0.3 hr C7345* RH R/Seat Back Heated Seat Component Heating Element-Replace 1.0 hr ADD Diagnosis Time 0.0-0.3 hr C7346* LH R/Seat Cushion Heated Seat Component Heating Element-Replace 0.9 hr ADD Diagnosis Time 0.0-0.3 hr C7347* LH R/Seat Back Heated Seat Component Heating Element-Replace 1.0 hr ADD Diagnosis Time 0.0-0.3 hr *This labor operation is new and will be included in the next update of the Labor Time Guide. GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information. WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Document ID# 1059134 2000 Cadillac DeVille
  49. 1 point
    BodybyFisher

    Scotty/BodybyFisher

    I just broke 10,000 with my last two posts! (not that I am looking ) I'll never make 15K, Scotty/BodybyFisher
  50. 1 point
    Marika

    Scotty/BodybyFisher

    how about Obsessive Compulsive