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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/03/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hi All. So as I get ready to take my 97 Seville out for the season I felt the need to give it some love. Last year the ABS pump was lazy and would not engage on startup causing the christmas tree of lights to come on. I bought a nice southern unit(fingers crossed) I am replacing a few lines as well. The mains and the fronts. I also decided to replace the radiator hoses and thermostat while I am there. So tonight I got to the point of removing the hoses and thermostat. I noticed when I pulled the neck off that there is a rubber seal in the center portion of the thermostat that is swollen and restricting it. No idea what is going on with that. So replacement was a good call. Car has been rather flawless since I had the engine serted and sealed however many years ago. But I always noted that it ran warmer than the many NorthStars I have owned and driven. Both my 96 and 97 Deville would run 196 all day long. This one would usually run 205 or so. I hope this was the cause. Radiator is fine as well. I replaced that a few years ago. Coolant gets drained and refilled every 2 years. I also ordered the OEM torque struts as my left one is torn again. Grr. I hope the oe ones hold up better All of the mounts have been replaced. I am going to finish it off with a new battery and negative battery cable. Cannot wait to have it out again. Body is still flawless, underside has a few small minor spots showing surface rust. Has never seen a winter though. I will have to post a pic of both of my 97s paired when I finish. Pic below is the day I brought it home , After I detailed it of course. Still makes me drool. I still Love this body style. Newer ones are nice but for quality built these are just wonderful Happy motoring
  2. 1 point


    Hej Om du inte hittat nåt annat finns online manual på bla styrning och uppbyggnad. http://cadillac.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/1957/1957 Shop Manual/05-Power Steering/image22.html Hela manualen till 1957 finns där. Har rotat med en 58 för många år sedan men glömt hur jag gjorde MVH / Caddysurfer
  3. 1 point
    @BodybyFisher Thank you ! I think I did another post on the inlet removal a while back???????
  4. 1 point
    The A/c does not have to be evacuated. Disconnect the mounting bolts and let it hang. Clamp and/or hose removal is pretty easy after that. Most of the time it is the inlet leaking but you may be the exception.
  5. 1 point

    Doing a little TLC on my Seville

    Which line did you replace, brake lines? That is VERY upsetting that AC Delco is made in China, but don't get me started. Lets transfer more intellectual property and manufacturing to them, huh?, we need to manufacture again, the state sanctioned slavery has to stop.
  6. 1 point
    Payments are not required for Cadillac info here. However if you decide to participate and want to support Caddyinfo, under the menu item Store are various subscription levels. Those funds offset our monthly hosting costs. In the lower right hand corner of each post there is a icon to let one add a commendation for that reply which scores in the weekly best replies and is indicated on the profile for that poster.
  7. 1 point
    I tried to do a politeness payment but couldn’t find it on my iphone so I just sent a message asking how to “Contact Us”.
  8. 1 point
    Wow! What a nice gesture of him to make that for you! 👍 I love custom stuff like that, and it is so great to have access to equipment at work to make things like that for my cars or for friends. The 3D-printer machines and laser-cutting is so cool! I'm in the process of designing and building a set custom 3D lug cover/centercap for my son's Audi. The generic one that came with his new rims just don't do the A6 justice.
  9. 1 point
    Well, I really should for all the intwl I have already received. It is on my to-do list for this weekend.
  10. 1 point
    thanks, yes I am replacing that cat
  11. 1 point

    Any 4.9 experts? Idle issues

    Check engine vacuum at idle 18-21” with a gauge check the main ground stud and bracket next to the starter motor . Make sure it’s tight and clean isc retracted the tps should be .57 running and set min air with alternator connector grounded to turn alt off. full extended I think the isc is 1.13 I think can’t remember and you adjust the isc plunger screw for full extended adjustment. Engine off on this setting . i have had a harmonic balancer spin and when the mechanic went to set timing it was way off so maybe verify tdc#1 and mark on water pump . The idle learn has to be started I think when the car is fully warmed up . 15 min running and 1 min in drive and 1 min in drive with ac on .
  12. 1 point

    Bose system aux input

    Check on www.thirdgen.org There is a guy there who adds jacks for bluetooth etc. on factory Delco units. He may be able to help ya.
  13. 1 point

    Bose system aux input

    I just installed this http://www.discountcarstereo.com/blu-gm2.html on my 98 Deville, pretty much plug and play. It turns your system into bluetooth using the CD changer plug (changer will no longer work). I have only had it for a week or two but so far works great and such an easy install.
  14. 1 point

    MP3 input jack Solved !!

    The factory Bose Gold Edition stereo seemed difficult to hack. However, after studying some other GM forums, I decided the best was was through the CD audio wiring. Really, who listens to CD much anyway? The hack is dead easy. There are two plugs going to the CD (same as the tape player also). The larger plug with mostly brown wires controls the functions of the player and is left plugged in. The smaller three wire plug is the audio output from the CD player. The red is the left channel, the tan is the right and the black shielded center is the ground. I simply connected snipped the plug off and soldered my jack wires to the the wires which go the the main circuit board. A CD must be in the unit, as it fools the radio into thinking the CD is sending the music. But it is actually your MP3 player, Iphone or whatever. The radio does not know the difference. You can switch back to AM/FM by simply pressing the ST/PL button, or ejecting the CD. Works great. Cost me about an hours time and $4 for the jack. Have a nice day........
  15. 1 point
    Only been in the place once to get me a new Hooters t-shirt! With the bus lines running direct from the ghetto to the place and the almost daily violent and petty crimes being commited I will stay away unless I have my pistol locked and loaded! During the heavy snowfalls they usually send guys up on top to shovel it off or deflate the roof to melt it. The Carrier dome with NO air conditioning built into it! LOL! Who said educators had any brains or common sense? DUH! Forgot to say I have been to the dome many times for concerts, SU b-ball and f-ball too! The stairs are a SOB, Seats hard , Parking a PIA, and warm beer and food $pendy but cheap compared to some of the major league parks I have been to ! Seen Santana there as it was the first concert there IIRC!
  16. 1 point
    Don't know how or what is going on with the oil. This is the latest version of the bulletin I see when doing a quick search on Google....11340C. https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/112470/3020368
  17. 1 point

    color codes

    The sheetmetal stays the same.....but the exterior and interior colors often change yearly. Interior parts typically fall off the 'available' dealer parts pretty quick....a couple of years after production.....simply not enough warehouse space to store 3000 spare 2001 Eldo left slate A pillar trim panels. The aftermarket headliner colors are pretty generic.....maybe a couple of grays....a couple of tans....black.....etc. They will never match exactly unless you redo both A pillars and the headliner....and B and C pillars at the same time too. In other words....you will never find a sheet of '154' slate. Some headliner material does have thinner foam backing material.....it's hard to find but it is out there. Best bet is to wait and just keep searching for the right parts car.
  18. 1 point
    I sure will. Right now it's having some minor work done to it and next week it's going in for a Fresh coat of paint
  19. 1 point
    Cadillac Jim

    Transmission help! 4t80e

    Is this with the front wheels off the ground and engine at idle? When the wheels are on the ground and you give it a bit of throttle in Reverse, does the car move forward? Does the car surge against the Park pawl when you give it a bit of throttle in Park? This is the FSM entry for "Forward motion in N: Checks Causes DEFINITION: Forward Motion in Neutral Forward Clutch Housing Feed hole plugged, inspect tower Forward Clutch Piston Jammed Forward Clutch Plates Seized or jammed Forward Clutch Springs Jammed Forward/Coast Clutch Support Hub Holes plugged Manual Valve Mispositioned or stuck Shift Linkage • Mispositioned • Disconnected The only do-it-in-the-driveway DIY check that is listed is to check the shift linkage. The FSM drawing of the cable attachment to the transmission: 1 - where the cable attaches to the transmission. This may be disconnected in your case. 2 - cable holder, with adjustment. The FSM adjustment process follows. Range Selector Lever Cable Adjustment Notice: Adjust the shift control cable only while the transaxle and the gear selector are in NEUTRAL. Failure to do so may cause mis-adjustment. Set the parking brake and chock the wheels. Remove the shift cable terminal from the transmission manual shaft lever pin. Pry on the shift cable terminal at the manual shaft lever pin with an appropriate tool. Prying or pulling up on any other part of the shift cable may result in damage to the shift cable . Fully lift the adjuster lock button. Ensure that the adjuster is free to move. Place the transmission manual shaft lever in (N) Neutral. In order to find (N) Neutral, rotate the lever fully counterclockwise to (P) Park, and then clockwise 2 clicks into (N) Neutral. Place the gear shifter inside the car to the (N) Neutral position. Use the transmission shift indicator on the console to find (N) Neutral. From under the hood, grasp the shift cable terminal and pull it toward the pin on the manual shaft lever. The shift cable adjuster spring should compress as the terminal is moved toward the pin. Attach the pin to the lever by pushing down carefully until it snaps. Do not pull the terminal beyond the pin and then push back. This action could move the shifter out of (N) Neutral. Press the adjuster lock button down flush with the adjuster body. Shift to (P) Park and release the parking brake while applying the service brake. Start the engine and assure all of the indicated gear positions match the vehicle response.
  20. 1 point
    It did help. I had no functionality to my left rear door. Spent a few hours trying to figure it out- had primary power and ground. Ended up removing the harness completely from the door to find two completely broken wires, the primary ground holding on by a single strand, and the rest in pretty bad shape. Have them all fixed now- find out tomorrow if this restores functionality and clears the U1000 (no communication with body module) code. Thank you for the tip. I am terrible at electrical stuff and you enabled me to potentially fix this myself instead of paying the dealer $1100 to find and fix the broken wires.
  21. 1 point

    2007 Cadillac DTS

    I think adding to the problem is there are 2 very similar named solenoids. There is a: EVAP purge solenoid. (Located under the hood) p0443. EVAP vent solenoid (Located on the evap cansister or on some other cars on the gas tank) p0449. The underhood ones (for me) seem to be more problematic than the gas tank ones. Have seen several cause a 'no code, no start after fill up issue'. Could get the issue to move to an identical car by swapping the evap purge sensor.
  22. 1 point
    Bruce Nunnally

    Seville sway bar links

    Good job, nice report. I would add be cautious with eye protection when spraying PB Blaster or other penetrant if you are lying under the item you are spraying (ask me how I know).
  23. 1 point

    Bose system aux input

    I did it on my 1996 and 97s. Was pretty involved. I did mine at the cd changer and used cds with silent tracks. I can get into details if you have a cd changer in the trunk. Not sure on the 95 though. That is the last year for that design. I assume you would have to do it at the amp behind the back seat. You could do it with the cassette. Let me know what you think
  24. 1 point

    Timing Chain Replaced - Special Warranty

    This post very likely saved me $2,100 for the replacement of a timing chain. I took my 2007 CTS into the shop this morning to check out the engine light that had been on for a few weeks. When the shop called me back and told me I needed a timing chain I took to the internet and came across this site. I called GM and within 15 minutes have an appointment at the local Cadillac dealer next Monday morning for them to again diagnose and replace the timing belt under the special warranty. I am within 5 months of the time frame of the 10 year, 120,000 miles since the car was put into service. A big shout out to Logan for posting the link to the Bulletin 11340A which gave me the phone number to Cadillac. Small world, I too am in Franklin TN!
  25. 1 point
    Ed Hall

    1987 Deville 4.1 to 4.9 Conversion

    Here's how the 4.9 engine sits in the car. It runs very smoothly and has tons more power than the HT4100. So far, I'm very pleased with the results and I'm glad that I saved this very well built car from being sent to the crushers and recycled into a Smart car. With only 80k miles on the heart transplant, it should last for a very long time. Also, my homemade exhaust fits like a glove and sounds like some of the more expensive exhaust systems out there. It was easy to do with the engine out. I don't know if anyone else is interested in saving an old car like this but if someone is, I would be willing to write something up on how to do this. The job was not difficult but there was someone planning and homework that went into this to make the conversion successful.
  26. 1 point

    Rear Door Module problems! I think

    Hi, I'm new here. just got my 1st Caddy last week. I had the exact same problem as you. I pulled the door panel, ready to replace the module and noticed 2 broken wires at the door jam. Also had 2 or 3 with the insulation torn. After some research, here and on the Net, I found that this is very common. Note the way the harness has to bend at one point, behind the panel. Saved myself $120 for the module, hope this helps.