BodybyFisher Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 JimD doing his struts got me going on my struts. I have had the parts for at least six months. Today I started the job. I will say this was harder than I expected and that I ran into a couple of annoying slowdowns. I am using Boston Suspensions Luxury Struts and I bought the following: GM Strut mounts GM top and bottom insulators GM Springs GM boot GM spring seat GM hub bearing GM Strut Rod Bushings I pulled the wheel, removed the caliper and hung it on the side. Removed the rotor. Removed the large axle bolt, removed three bolts securing the hub bearing, disconnected the wheel speed sensor connector. Tapped on the hub bearing with a light hammer and it came right off. Many have trouble getting the hub bearing out (even the dealer) I guess I got lucky. First photo is at beginning of job. Second photo of the hub bearing loose. Third photo is of hub out. Fourth photo of old strut rod bushing and the new one. Its amazing how rusty the strut rod gets and how rusty the frame gets water must get trapped in there. I wire brushed the frame and the strut rod. Anyone who had now changed their strut rod bushings and the car is 8 years old or older, I would do it, the rod takes a beating when the bushing is worn out. One of the most time consuming things was getting the lower control arm bolt out, when I went to back it out it hit against the engine carriage amazing that something is designed that way. Unless you get that bolt out you can't get the lower control arm off. I had to put a small piece of all-thread into the hole behind it and use a rod to bang it out.. That added about 45 minutes. Photo 5 is the front end with the lower control arm out, the strut out and the inspection covers off Photo 6 is of the old strut with spring compressor on it Photo 7 is of the new spring seat and new boot assembled My old struts pushed in very very easy so there was no dampening of the upward movement of the wheel assembly, it just flew upward. Conversely, this was the reason why my front end wanted to and did crash down on the highway over rises and dips in the road, there was no dampening of the body downward. Can't wait to see how it rides when I am done. This lack of dampening probably is the reason why I am all over the road with bumpy roads, I am sure the tire is leaving the road. Photo 8 is of new strut with spring compressor in place. I could have used three spring compressors, I felt that two caused the spring to cock and when I let the pressure off as it un cocked it pushed the upper insulator out of place and untwisted the spring mis-aligning the spring strut assembly. I had to take the strut assembly apart twice to get it lined up right as the spring compresser released pressure. Photo 9 is of old spring, you can see where the spring was bottoming out where it is rusted Photo 10 is of new Strut Assembly with Boston strut, new spring, new insulators, new spring seat and new strut mount. You will notice that this strut has the stabilizer link wing on both sides, how annoying. I may need to cut the front wing off if it interferes with anything with my dremel cut off wheel... Tomorrow I will reinstall everything and if I feel energetic I will do the passenger side, but I think I will leave that till Monday. The one thing that is bothering me is directional skippiness at highway speeds. I inspected the rear suspension today as it feels like its coming from the rear but I found nothing. I thought for sure my knuckles would show wear at 12 and 6 o'clock but I had NO movement in the rear at all. I am hoping this skippiness is coming from the front now. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 Nice photos Mike! How long did that take you? Do you recall what the parts cost you for both sides? Was it necessary to replace the spring and how much did the springs cost?? Could you tell a difference between the old and new spring? Looks like you're changing your brake pads while you're at it huh? Which pads are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 I started working at 2:30 and quit at 8:00, this is my first attempt at doing struts in addition its my first disassembly/assembly of a strut assembly using the spring compressors. The orientation of the spring seat and spring is critical and I was focusing on the alignment closely. I recall the parts prices as follows: Front and rear struts (Boston) $525 Strut mounts $160 Boots $50 Insulators $50 Springs can't recall price. I can't recall if it was Bruce or Logan but someone said that the springs last forever. I replaced my springs because they have taken a lot of abuse because the struts were bad. In addition they have been bottoming out very easily as evidenced by the old coil spring pictures above. In addition my ride height is low. I will let you know how it rides with the new assemblies. I quit for the night, ready to reinstall everything in the morning. The front brakes were done recently, I am replacing the rubber slider bushings however. I always use GM pads. I am taking two trips to Virginia this summer, these repairs will help make the ride more enjoyable and safer. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 Hang in there Mike; you can finish the job today. The 2nd side will go much faster. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeal1892 Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 JimD doing his struts got me going on my struts. I have had the parts for at least six months. Today I started the job. I will say this was harder than I expected and that I ran into a couple of annoying slowdowns. I am using Boston Suspensions Luxury Struts and I bought the following: GM Strut mounts GM top and bottom insulators GM Springs GM boot GM spring seat GM hub bearing GM Strut Rod Bushings I pulled the wheel, removed the caliper and hung it on the side. Removed the rotor. Removed the large axle bolt, removed three bolts securing the hub bearing, disconnected the wheel speed sensor connector. Tapped on the hub bearing with a light hammer and it came right off. Many have trouble getting the hub bearing out (even the dealer) I guess I got lucky. First photo is at beginning of job. Second photo of the hub bearing loose. Third photo is of hub out. Fourth photo of old strut rod bushing and the new one. Its amazing how rusty the strut rod gets and how rusty the frame gets water must get trapped in there. I wire brushed the frame and the strut rod. Anyone who had now changed their strut rod bushings and the car is 8 years old or older, I would do it, the rod takes a beating when the bushing is worn out. One of the most time consuming things was getting the lower control arm bolt out, when I went to back it out it hit against the engine carriage amazing that something is designed that way. Unless you get that bolt out you can't get the lower control arm off. I had to put a small piece of all-thread into the hole behind it and use a rod to bang it out.. That added about 45 minutes. Photo 5 is the front end with the lower control arm out, the strut out and the inspection covers off Photo 6 is of the old strut with spring compressor on it Photo 7 is of the new spring seat and new boot assembled My old struts pushed in very very easy so there was no dampening of the upward movement of the wheel assembly, it just flew upward. Conversely, this was the reason why my front end wanted to and did crash down on the highway over rises and dips in the road, there was no dampening of the body downward. Can't wait to see how it rides when I am done. This lack of dampening probably is the reason why I am all over the road with bumpy roads, I am sure the tire is leaving the road. Photo 8 is of new strut with spring compressor in place. I could have used three spring compressors, I felt that two caused the spring to cock and when I let the pressure off as it un cocked it pushed the upper insulator out of place and untwisted the spring mis-aligning the spring strut assembly. I had to take the strut assembly apart twice to get it lined up right as the spring compresser released pressure. Photo 9 is of old spring, you can see where the spring was bottoming out where it is rusted Photo 10 is of new Strut Assembly with Boston strut, new spring, new insulators, new spring seat and new strut mount. You will notice that this strut has the stabilizer link wing on both sides, how annoying. I may need to cut the front wing off if it interferes with anything with my dremel cut off wheel... Tomorrow I will reinstall everything and if I feel energetic I will do the passenger side, but I think I will leave that till Monday. The one thing that is bothering me is directional skippiness at highway speeds. I inspected the rear suspension today as it feels like its coming from the rear but I found nothing. I thought for sure my knuckles would show wear at 12 and 6 o'clock but I had NO movement in the rear at all. I am hoping this skippiness is coming from the front now. Looking good my friend ! I know that this was bothering you for a while as I recall. Was there any issues with getting the service ride control message off ? I recently came across information of how to do this through the climate control system. let me know if I need to find this for you. Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 Thanks Mike Jim, how did you tighten the top nut to 55 ft. lbs without turning the strut shaft? Did you have the special tool that allowed you to hold with the torx socket? Thanks Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 Mike: I used an adjustable wrench on the nut and held the strut shaft with a standard old 3/8" drive T-50 bit. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 hmmm, your's must be different, my nut is recessed, I will post a photo later.. There is a special tool (you know, one of those one or twice in a lifetime use tools... ) Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 Could you drop a socket over the nut and then put the T-50 through the drive end of the socket and use channel locks to turn the socket?? Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 WOW Mike, I thought you'd done this a long time ago! I remember you saying they were in the garage, but . . . . Any thoughts I might have had regarding possibly having overpayed my mechanic for doing this job are suddenly history. Good luck, Warren There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Could you drop a socket over the nut and then put the T-50 through the drive end of the socket and use channel locks to turn the socket?? The OEM strut had a TORX, the Boston strut has a 10 mm bolt. I figured it out however, when I released the spring compressor pressure, the spring pressure stopped the turning of the shaft and I was able to torque it up adequately. I will look for a tool at some point to get it to spec unless the alignment shop can do it I was distracted today, my neighbors house directly across the street burned to the ground, I tried to stop it with a garden hose but it got out of control really fast. It started in the rear porch and by the time I sprinted home and had my wife call the fire department, the porch was enveloped when I got back the garden hose was useless, and the backed away when the electrical wires shorted out and fell. I pulled two gas grills to safety so they didnt blow. Luckily no one was home, we kicked the door in and I got a little smoke inhalation. Within 90 seconds the smoke was three feet off the floor in the front of the house after starting in the rear of the house. It went up so incredibly fast. So got the control arm in, the strut in and the hub in and its looking good. My alignment is WAY off, I am toeing out for some reason.. I will need to drive directly to an alignment shop.. I will finish the first side tomorrow and tear apart the second side. Thanks WOW Mike, I thought you'd done this a long time ago! I remember you saying they were in the garage, but . . . . Any thoughts I might have had regarding possibly having overpayed my mechanic for doing this job are suddenly history. Good luck, Warren Its not an easy job Warren, but I am doing much more than the struts. My strut rod bushings where pretty bad. I can't wait to see how it rides when I am done with this.... Then on to the tranny pan gasket... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Good grief, Mike; bad timing all around. Hope no personal injuries resulted! Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Within 90 seconds the smoke was three feet off the floor in the front of the house after starting in the rear of the house. It went up so incredibly fast. What a tragedy for you neighbor. Glad no one was hurt. I've no doubt you did everything possible. Its not an easy job Warren, but I am doing much more than the struts. My strut rod bushings where pretty bad. I can't wait to see how it rides when I am done with this.... Then on to the tranny pan gasket... Sounds good. Surely all of your east coast cousins have home cooked meals waiting for you. Sorry, I couldn't help myself. I know you'll enjoy that great feeling when it rides just perfect. Regards, Warren There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Within 90 seconds the smoke was three feet off the floor in the front of the house after starting in the rear of the house. It went up so incredibly fast. What a tragedy for you neighbor. Glad no one was hurt. I've no doubt you did everything possible. Its not an easy job Warren, but I am doing much more than the struts. My strut rod bushings where pretty bad. I can't wait to see how it rides when I am done with this.... Then on to the tranny pan gasket... Sounds good. Surely all of your east coast cousins have home cooked meals waiting for you. Sorry, I couldn't help myself. I know you'll enjoy that great feeling when it rides just perfect. Regards, Warren I am going back down to Virginia 5/27 for a wedding reception and I am driving my son and two friends down to Virginia Beach for a DMB concert on 7/4. The cooling system will need to be working to spec for that trip, This is one of the reasons I am working on my car. I will see my cousin both times. She has an AC code that I would like to remedy; and I am going to buy her a Key Fob and program it to her security system. I have to check into how they are programmed. Have 96 Caddy will travel to fix 96 Caddy.... The board has been kind of dead lately so its fun to actually do some work on my Caddy.....rather than talk about it Based on how tight everything is, I can see that my ride is going to be outstanding. Now that we have a new driveway, I am witnessing on a daily basis how bad my car leaks tranny fluid. That is next on the agenda, then the rear brake crossover tubing and front brake hoses that are cracked. My lower control arm bushings look great no play or wear. My next purchase will be a torque wrench that goes up to 200 ft. lbs lots of highly torqued bolts in the front end and mine only goes to 100 ft. lbs. More Tools.... Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 I am going back down to Virginia 5/27 for a wedding reception and I am driving my son and two friends down to Virginia Beach for a DMB concert on 7/4. SEE!?! How many cousins does Mike have??? Have 96 Caddy will travel to fix 96 Caddy.... Way to go Paladin! There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Same cousin. Can you believe that she has been telling me that she had a 96 SEVILLE for the last year and it ended up being a 96 DEVILLE, slight difference... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 UPDATE: There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 UPDATE: Dunno, can't seem to post any more if it includes attachments. Guess I've execeeded a limit someplace. Please ignore the "update" There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Last try . . . . There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted May 2, 2006 Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 So how is the front of your Deville behaving now, Mike??? Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 So how is the front of your Deville behaving now, Mike??? Thanks Jim. I am going out shortly to resume my work. Since the fire I have been off track. Will advise shortly. Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2006 LF is done and installed, my alignment is way out. I'm getting it aligned in the morning. The LF is about 1 FULL inch higher than the passenger side.... YEA! I just got the second side out. Much Faster but I am not doing the hub bearing on this side. Worse, I am doing the ball joint. Will post photos of the ball joint process. The spring is MUCH worse on this side, it was bottoming badly. The strut is no doubt dead. The strut rod bushing on the RF is really bad and the strut mount looks like it was taking hits... Maybe this is the reason I was all over the road, will update as I go, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeal1892 Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 Ugh, work work ! But its coming along there is light at the end ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 Well here are some pictures. The first picture is my caliper. I replaced the right bushing and the left bushing is out... Notice the inside the hole is heavy rust. I needed to use a round wire brush to clean the holes out before I inserted the new caliper bushings. The new bushing REALLY stopped the ability of the caliper to cock back and forth, it now moves as a unit. Second Photo is of my lower control arm with the 1/4" pilot holes drilled into the three ball joint rivets. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 Photo three is the control arm with the rivets drilled out and the ball joint detached Photo 4 is of the RF strut rod bushings they are much worse than the LF Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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