MAC Posted August 25, 2005 Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 jadcock, You requested the pics of A/C pulley removal. Sorry I'm late in posting, but in case you're still interested here they are: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted August 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 Part II I used the typical run of the mill puller, which is really not ideal for A/C, but it worked. Also, snap ring pliers are needed to remove the snap ring securing the pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdictas Posted August 25, 2005 Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 Mac, Could you please refresh our memories on why you removed the A/C clutch? What was the mode of failure/symptoms. How long did it take to remove and replace the clutch? My clutch in my 99 STS chirps when it engages, I was thinking about replacing the A/C compressor ($$$) but I don't have time right now. So based on your posting removing and replacing the clutch maybe an easier task (I hoping). Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted August 25, 2005 Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 Nice photos Mac! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regis Posted August 25, 2005 Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 Mac, Great job with the photos. I've never pulled one but I can get a much better idea of what is involved through your pics. Very helpful. "Burns" rubber " I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted August 25, 2005 Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 By the way when I pulled my old compressor, I pulled the hub and coil assembly before I trashed it for a little experience. All of the balls fell out of the hub bearing, it looks like yours were falling out also... How did it all go back, was it quiet? Did you replace the coil also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted August 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 Cdictas, I removed the clutch and pulley to replace the pulley bearing. The pulley was squealing and after a while I pinned it down. As you can see, in order to get to the pulley you have to remove the clutch. Once the clutch is removed the pulley can be easily removed provided you have the tools. After I removed the pulley I learned that just replacing the bearing alone would require a machine shop. Also, the pulley was worn out so I decided to purchase both the pulley and bearing as a single unit for about $120.00. I then decided to purchase the clutch as it was also worn out. The process can take anywhere from about 1.5 hours and above depending on mechanical skill and knowledge. If you understand the process it’s really a piece of cake. The pulley bearing was completely shot. The balls fell out and the seal was burnt to a crisp from all the heat generated by the defective bearing. In fact, I took a photo of some of the balls lying next to what’s left of the bearing. Scotty, it looks like I’ll also have to replace the clutch coil because the A/C fuse (10 amp) is blowing. For those not familiar with the clutch coil, it’s the outer round part depicted in the 3rd pic in the second set of photos. At about 8 o’clock there is an imperfection in the clutch coil. Actually, the coil is broken with a significant crack. I thought I might be able to get away with it but it looks like I’ll just have to buy a new one. The compressor worked at first for a short time then the fuse would blow. It’s worse now as the fuse blows immediately upon attempting to turn the A/C on. I priced the coil and it looks like gmpartsdirect.com has the best price (about $38) by a few dollars over rockauto.com. At the moment I have it all back together and it runs smooth and quiet. I’m going to order the clutch coil unless anyone has a suggestion as to what else could be causing the fuse to blow besides the coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted August 25, 2005 Report Share Posted August 25, 2005 This is what happened to mine, the overheating hub overheats the coil and shorts it out, my fuse was blowing also, once I replaced the compressor all was fine... Replace the coil and you will be fine, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted August 26, 2005 Report Share Posted August 26, 2005 Wow, great pics. Thanks! Right now, I'm using the A/C less until I have the time to diagnose my compressor noise. It's been busy around here with the new little'un. We take my mother to the airport tomorrow to get her plane back home, and then it'll be just the three of us, so things may start settling down soon...I hope the hot weather does anyway. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackH Posted August 27, 2005 Report Share Posted August 27, 2005 There is a diode that is wired across the +14 volt power wire to the coil. It's purpose is to prevent any "negative spike" of voltage from the coil getting back into the +14 volt line. Its easy to check: with the compressor plug disconnected and A/C relay removed, take an ohmeter and place the probes across the two contacts of the cable plug. You should get zero resistance one way and by reversing the probes and you should get infinity resistance. If you get zero resistance both ways the diode is shorted and should be replaced. You can also make this test at the A/C relay contacts. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted August 27, 2005 Report Share Posted August 27, 2005 There is a diode that is wired across the +14 volt power wire to the coil. It's purpose is to prevent any "negative spike" of voltage from the coil getting back into the +14 volt line. Its easy to check: with the compressor plug disconnected and A/C relay removed, take an ohmeter and place the probes across the two contacts of the cable plug. You should get zero resistance one way and by reversing the probes and you should get infinity resistance. If you get zero resistance both ways the diode is shorted and should be replaced. You can also make this test at the A/C relay contacts. Jack Thanks Jack, I will check mine also, I had it off when I replaced my AC compressor and put it on using the schematic in the manual... I would imagine that if its burned out it will char the AC Relay contacts, ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackH Posted August 28, 2005 Report Share Posted August 28, 2005 I don't think a shorted diode will burn out the contacts of the relay because you still have a fuse in that line. The fuse will go before the relay goes if the diode is "shorted." My point was to explain that many cases where folks think the coil is "shorted" it has turned out the coil is OK but the diode is shorted. If you understand how that diode works in the system you won't make that mistake. The coil has a resistance of about 2 to 3 ohms, which could be interpreted almost as a "short" but if the diode is "shorted" it's a real zero ohms, both ways. It would be interesting to tally how many folks replaced coils that were OK. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danbuc Posted August 28, 2005 Report Share Posted August 28, 2005 I really need to replace my A/C compressor cluth one of these days. My cluth chirps REALLY loudly when it engages, and you can even feel the car lag for a second when it engages. It also doesn't disengage half the time at WOT, and ends up sucking the life otu of the engine when I pull onto the highway. Can you purchase the cluth assembly seperately? My pulley/bearing assembly is fine, and doesn't squeal or anything. It's just the clutch that's the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted August 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2005 Jack, Thanks for the info. I think I'll buy the diode at my local Cadillac dealer. It's inexpensive (about $3). I don't have an ohm meter so perhaps I should just buy the diode and see if it works. The GM factory manual (pg. 1C-15) does say to check the diode if the compressor doesn't operate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runar Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Hi epriced. Lots of good information from all the guys.Coils have been an important part of my working life.They have one problem, they produce heat, and have a hard time getting rid of it. In your case it is even worse. It is enclosed, have to deal with it,s own heat plus all the heat around it.From day one, a coil is on it,s way out. The insulation become brittle, they will burn and short out, or they will just open, a break in the winding that is. They can also become weak, and start to shatter, in this case, the clutch will try to engage, but cannot make it. In case of control relays and motor contactors, it sounds like a machine gun. That is why the gap is important. If the gap is not right, the magnetic flux is not right and the coil will labor and if it goes on the coil will burn. I seen that a lot on cranes, where they have big brakes, if the gap between the shoe and the shaft is not right, the coil will destroy. So with an 11 year old coil, I would replace it. If it was a 5 minute job, I would take my chanses, but for what I see from Scotty, Kevin and others here, there are alot of things involded here. I wish you good luck. Regards Runar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted November 15, 2005 Report Share Posted November 15, 2005 I really need to replace my A/C compressor cluth one of these days. My cluth chirps REALLY loudly when it engages, and you can even feel the car lag for a second when it engages. It also doesn't disengage half the time at WOT, and ends up sucking the life otu of the engine when I pull onto the highway. Can you purchase the cluth assembly seperately? My pulley/bearing assembly is fine, and doesn't squeal or anything. It's just the clutch that's the problem. Hi danbuc, Did you get your compressor fixed yet? If not, I can give you some advice as I just fixed mine and I was having similiar problems as yours, plus some. Just let me know. Send me a pm if you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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