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New AC Compressor


Scotty

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OK, I have a brand new AC Delco AC Compressor. I took it out of the box put it on my bench and looked it over. The AC hub turns nice and smooth, very smooth .. However, if I try to turn the front of the compressor I can not no matter how hard I try. I did not want to put a tool on it in case I scratch it and can't return it... Am I missing something, why can't I turn the clutch/compressor part easily? It seems to be hitting something at the front a metal to metal noise, external to the compressor. This may be hard to return now to brasington as I bought it in October. :( Murphy's Law again...

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Mike,

Is it completely locked up? Or will it turn a small amount each way? Some times the compressors will develop a hydraulic lock from sitting. Additionally a new/ rebuilt compressor is usually VERY stiff when you take it out of the box. I would take the shipping plugs out and stand it up to see if any oil leaks out. If so, I would let it drain for a few seconds. By the way, catch the oil that comes out, measure it and replace it with fresh ester oil. (Do the same with your old compressor.) Add the replacement oil to the Discharge opening.

After the oil (if any) has drained, you should be able to turn the input by hand. It will take a lot of force to break it free, and it will be really stiff.

My rebuilt compressor took all I had to break it free by hand. The book (94 Caddy manual) mentions temporarily installing an M9 x 1.25 nut on the shaft to facilitate turning. I suppose with a wrench, but the book doesn't say. With the compressor in a horizontal position, turn the compressor in the normal direction several turns. I would try to put moderate pressure on the shaft and hold it to see if it starts to turn.

Now you said metal to metal. If you truly believe that there is metal to metal, don't try to force it with a tool. If you cannot break it loose with you hands, it may truly be defective. Call Brasington's 800 number & ask them, I have always found them to be fair. Your mention of a metal to metal sound is a concern.

Hopefully you found this before you removed your old compressor. :blink:

Take Care,

Britt

Britt
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hey scotty dont forget we want a blow by blow description did u get the old one out yet? are u doing your struts at the same time? u know i had to replace my struts and just did the compressor. i guess these must be normal repairs on 8-9 yr old cars by the way im pleased so far with the results on mine i ordered sway bar bushings for the rear i hope this helps my rumbling sounds on wash board type roads where i take my car they said $40 to install them

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Britt it does not turn at all. There were multiple tags on it that state that it shipped WITHOUT oil... I tried turning it in both directions by hand and could not turn it. I will try to turn it tomorrow with a strap... Thanks, Mike

It wouldnt matter if I had a problem as I have the compressor bypassed with a short belt..

Thanks, you have made me feel a lot better that the new compressor is just tight...

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hey scotty dont forget we want a blow by blow description did u get the old one out yet? are u doing your struts at the same time? u know i had to replace my struts and just did the compressor. i guess these must be normal repairs on 8-9 yr old cars by the way im pleased so far with the results on mine i ordered sway bar bushings for the rear i hope this helps my rumbling sounds on wash board type roads where i take my car they said $40 to install them

I will take photos and notes on how to get the old one out. I will do the compressor first and do the struts over the next couple of weekends. I have most of the parts to assemble the new struts EXCEPT for one and I may order the part (a plate of some sort) so that I can have the strut/spring assembly assembled in advance. Installing an assembled strut/spring assembly will really speed the job up. I plan to mark the tower carefully and use a magnetic level to get the new strut assembly close then get it aligned.

This is just normal maintenance at this age.

I hope the stabilizer bar bushings do the trick for you, I am replacing mine also. Thanks, Mike

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Mike,

You should be able to turn the compressor hub by hand - it will be somewhat difficult but it should turn. PAG oil is hydroscopic so that's why compressors are shipped "dry" these days. Usually, there is enough lube from the compressor assembly process to keep it from locking up. I would contact Brasington's.

BTW - the correct oil for the system is PAG high viscosity oil - not ester oil.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Kevin, it feels like it is locked at the front near the clutch, when I turn it in either direction is seems to hit a stop, if I can't turn it with a little force, I will call Brasington Monday, Thanks, Mike

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Kevin, it feels like it is locked at the front near the clutch, when I turn it in either direction is seems to hit a stop, if I can't turn it with a little force, I will call Brasington Monday, Thanks, Mike

This may be a stupid question but did you remove the plugs from the refrigerant ports?

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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These instructions are pretty basic. I am really surprised that they did not mark the three nuts at the top of the tower to get the strut assembly SOMEWHAT back into correct alignment. The other issue is the position of the knuckle and strut (the two bolts), if I know where the OLD strut SAT I can again somewhat align the new strut assembly in its correct alignment with a level. Arnott doesn't mention these issues at all, they just say "wheel alignment is highly recommended" NO KIDDING! :lol:

They say NOTHING about disassembling and assembling the strut/spring assembly (blow-up shown below) other than follow the safety guidelines, probably for liability reasons..

In the picture below, I have #9 a new strut, a #2 new strut mount, #7 a new spring, #8 a new lower insulator and #4 a new upper insulator, what I don't have is #3 a new front string seat.... Now I can use this from the old spring or buy a new one depending upon the cost.. If I had that part, I would assemble the spring/strut assembly complete. Does this clear up what I am trying to do?

post-3-1114350118_thumb.jpg

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Kevin, it feels like it is locked at the front near the clutch, when I turn it in either direction is seems to hit a stop, if I can't turn it with a little force, I will call Brasington Monday, Thanks, Mike

This may be a stupid question but did you remove the plugs from the refrigerant ports?

No I didn't should I? I was just trying to see if the compressor would turn...in a little while I will pull those plastic plugs and see if they are stopping the compressor somehow...

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It wouldnt matter if I had a problem as I have the compressor bypassed with a short belt..

Hi Scotty,

Do you happen to have the part number or size of a belt that would work on the 91 4.9 bypassing the A/C compressor?

Thanks,

Bob B

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I'm sorry Bob I don't have it for the 4.9 only the NS. What is the problem with your compressor? I sent a new hub assembly to Adallak from my 91, maybe you can work out a deal with him if he thinks his hub is in good shape, I have the hub removal / installation tools and can lend them to you, you can see the tool in the picture below with my new compressor in the lower right, the arbor is in the hub with my socket on it, Mike

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Kevin, it feels like it is locked at the front near the clutch, when I turn it in either direction is seems to hit a stop, if I can't turn it with a little force, I will call Brasington Monday, Thanks, Mike

This may be a stupid question but did you remove the plugs from the refrigerant ports?

Good News Kevin! I just went out and put a hub removal arbor in the clutch and put a socket on the arbor, and it snapped loose and it is now possible to turn it! When I put the required oil in it I will be sure to exercise it through... Thanks, it had me worried! Mike

PS, I have PAG oil from ACSource and from GM/Cadillac who sold me a tube of PAG oil, I have not decided which I will use yet as they are of different viscosities, I will run the thought by you and you can help me decide.. THX

post-3-1114356037_thumb.jpg

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Kevin, One more thing, this compressor has a different clutch compared to my old compressor, I am sure it does not matter. Maybe this an improved design? It looks like more attention was paid to cooling the clutch on the new one. What do you think about the new design, Thanks, Mike

Here is a pic of my old one

post-3-1114356300_thumb.jpg

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Kevin, One more thing, this compressor has a different clutch compared to my old compressor, I am sure it does not matter. Maybe this an improved design? It looks like more attention was paid to cooling the clutch on the new one. What do you think about the new design, Thanks, Mike

Here is a pic of my old one

It should be fine - it must be an updated design. Use PAG 150 viscosity oil - that is what the shop manual recommends.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I just pulled my orifice tube and it was clogged with metal filings, here is a photo. I scraped away some of the sediment and it has tiny metal filings.

What does this mean, do the filings get into the evaportator and around the system or just on one leg of the system?

Do I leave the system open so they can flush it? Can I install the compressor, or are they only flushing a single leg of the system to blow out any filings?

post-3-1114971488.jpg

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I just pulled my orifice tube and it was clogged with metal filings, I will post a photo shortly. What does this mean, do the filings get into the evaportator? Do I leave the system open so they can flush it? Can I install the compressor, or are they only flushing a single leg of the system to blow out any filings?

Metal filings in the orifice tube is not a good thing....You will need to flush the system. Flush each component individually. Don't hook up the new compressor until the system is completely flushed or you'll be doing the job again in short order....

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I just pulled my orifice tube and it was clogged with metal filings, I will post a photo shortly.  What does this mean, do the filings get into the evaportator? Do I leave the system open so they can flush it?  Can I install the compressor, or are they only flushing a single leg of the system to blow out any filings?

Metal filings in the orifice tube is not a good thing....You will need to flush the system. Flush each component individually. Don't hook up the new compressor until the system is completely flushed or you'll be doing the job again in short order....

Thanks Kevin, what do you think about me taking out the compressor and accumulator, and letting the shop purge/flush the system, and then installing the compressor, accumulator and orifice tube. After it is purged/flushed, and I install those items I can take it and get it evacuated and charged. The process will be a little drawn out but it will be easy to flush the system that way... When a sustem if flushed it requires a full oil charge now?

Can the system be cleaned flushed so that I will NOT have any future problems?

I loosened the three bolts holding the old compressor so its ready to come out. I have a family function today so I had to stop, Thanks, Mike

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I just pulled my orifice tube and it was clogged with metal filings, I will post a photo shortly.  What does this mean, do the filings get into the evaportator? Do I leave the system open so they can flush it?  Can I install the compressor, or are they only flushing a single leg of the system to blow out any filings?

Metal filings in the orifice tube is not a good thing....You will need to flush the system. Flush each component individually. Don't hook up the new compressor until the system is completely flushed or you'll be doing the job again in short order....

Thanks Kevin, what do you think about me taking out the compressor and accumulator, and letting the shop purge/flush the system, and then installing the compressor, accumulator and orifice tube. After it is purged/flushed, and I install those items I can take it and get it evacuated and charged. The process will be a little drawn out but it will be easy to flush the system that way... When a sustem if flushed it requires a full oil charge now?

Can the system be cleaned flushed so that I will NOT have any future problems?

I loosened the three bolts holding the old compressor so its ready to come out. I have a family function today so I had to stop, Thanks, Mike

Sounds like a plan to me. Once you flush the system you will need a full oil charge - the quantity will be specified on the label on the accumulator.

I thought you had a flush gun??? If not, let the shop flush the system and you should be all set. Parallel flow condensers can be hard to flush clean but most (all) of the debris should be in the line from the compressor to the evaporator. Flush the whole system regardless though!

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Kevin, no I don't have a flush gun, I do recall discussing flush guns with you at some point however, good memory.

Hey I called my shop and they want $50 to $100 to flush my system "depending on how bad it is". :blink: Can I buy a flush gun and do it myself? Is this difficult? I will look at AC Source and see if I can find a gun. Thanks, Mike

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