thkai Posted January 22, 2009 Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 I was using instructions for a 94 SLS and I was doing OK until I got to the heater core box under the dash. This is where actual screw/nut/bolt.clip description in the instructions did not match up with what I am seeing. After removing a shiny silver control rod on top of the heater control box, The instructions point to a 9/32" hex-headed screw on the control box which needs to be removed in order to move the control box and it is at this point where things don't match up. Does anyone have step by step instructions from this point. Thanks for your time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted January 22, 2009 Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 I'm not sure what changed between 1994 adn 1997 under the dash, but I do believe that the STS and ETC are pretty much identical other than the wheelbase and two doors. Others may know better, but I'll give you what I have for the 1997 FSM, page 1B-27. HEATER CORE Remove or Disconnect Negative battery cable. Partially drain coolant. Refer to Draining and Refilling in Egine Cooling. Instrument panel compartment. Right sound insulator. Heater and A/C programmer. Heater core cover. Inlet and outlet heater hoses from heater core. Heater retaining screws. Heater core. Install or Connect Heater core to heater case, securing with two screws. Inlet and outlet heater hoses to heater core. Heater core cover. Heater and A/C programmer. Instrument panel compartment. Right sound insulator. Negative battery cable. Refill cooling system. Refer to Draining an dRefilling in Engine Cooling. Adjust the air mix valve. At this point I looked around in the FSM an dfound this on page 1B-33: HEATER AND A/C PROGRAMMER Figures 34 and 35 Remove or Disconnect Negative battery cable. Right sound insulator. Instrument panel compartment. Vacuum and electrical connectors from programmer. Programmer from vehicle. Install or Connect Programmer to vehicle. Vacuum and electrical conectors to programmer. Right sound insulator. Instrument panel compartment. Negatie battery cable. What you really need is Figure 34 and Figure 35: BodybyFisher might drop by at any minute and link to actual high-quality color photographs. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thkai Posted January 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 Thanks for the info Jims_97_ETC! The old heater core is out and the new one is going in tomorrow. I did miss the bottom actuator control rod but it popped off when I was working the heater box cover off. I do remember how the top was set and I think the bottom was set the same way. The top was set where both ends of the rod attach were pointing towards each other. I think that is the default position when the HVAC system is turned off. Any pointers anyone has would be appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 23, 2009 Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 Thanks Jim, I have not done this job so I can't add much more. This is an easy job compared to replacing the heater cores in the old cars, where you needed to remove the HVAC housing, I remember being twisted under the dash board in August heat changing one.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgaouette Posted January 23, 2009 Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 I remember doing my 97 SLS and saying to myself - WOW, this is easy!!!. The only hard part was geting to the clamps under the hood. I just checked the ESI and it is not listed, but take your time and look, it's just a few things to get the cover off and you're there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thkai Posted January 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 Just as a follow up. There are some really good posts on cadillacowners.com on replacing heater cores. Not only the steps but how to do the steps which saved me a lot of time eliminating the guess work. Also, one tip that worked well for me was to put some vaseline in the hoses before reconnecting them to the new heater core. Being there so little room to work and that the hoses are curved, it is hard to put sufficent force on the hoses to get them on the heater core inlet/outlet tubes. Using the vaseline, once they are started, they slide on pretty easily. Thank you everyone for your help and it is nice to have heat again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 Just as a follow up. There are some really good posts on cadillacowners.com on replacing heater cores. Not only the steps but how to do the steps which saved me a lot of time eliminating the guess work. Also, one tip that worked well for me was to put some vaseline in the hoses before reconnecting them to the new heater core. Being there so little room to work and that the hoses are curved, it is hard to put sufficent force on the hoses to get them on the heater core inlet/outlet tubes. Using the vaseline, once they are started, they slide on pretty easily. Thank you everyone for your help and it is nice to have heat again. Vaseline may be hard on rubber. It is coolant what is recommended as lubricant for heater hoses. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 I actually thought Jim's step by step which was probably right out of the manual to be very good plus he took his time to type it for you. Thanks Jim for taking the time! Not enough color Jim, next time add, screw J1, from quadrant UL to container 1, screw J2, from quadrant UR to container 1, etc etc. Come on Jim you being an engineer and all, more color! BIG mistake, putting vasaline on rubber hoses as Adallak aluded to, it will deteriorate the rubber, I learned that in grade school reading a 55 Cadillac Service manual...Its a petroleum product. IF ANYTHING you could use silicone lube that is what I used, when I changed my heater hoses. I have never been a step by step person myself, I am a mark the parts and bag related parts type mechanic with the service manual sitting near by.. Machanical work is not mechanical, its just inherent, you just know, this is a two hour job Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thkai Posted January 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2009 I do appreciate Jim taking the time to help me. Thank you Jim! Up until now, the most I did under the hood was change the air filter so I really don't have the experience the rest of you have. I do need a little more detail and I was only trying to be helpful to others who may need a little more detail by pointing to some posts on cadillacowners.com when I couldn't find it here. I probably should have pointed that out a little earlier. I didn't mean to offend anyone and I apologize if I did. In these economic times, I can't afford to pay labor so I'm going to learn these things little by little and do whatever work I can instead of putting it in the shop. One thing is, I usually don't make the same mistake twice so thanks for the info on what to use and not use as hose lubricant. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.