Machine Posted January 14, 2007 Report Share Posted January 14, 2007 I retreived code and got this code - P110 - Alternator L Terminal Circuit Problem History since i received this code 2 weeks ago , my alternator pulley was whining and now its not charging battery. Does any one have experience replacing this? Do i have to remove radiator shroud? Do i have to remove wheel welll covers? Is there anything else that i should know? Thanks, Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 14, 2007 Report Share Posted January 14, 2007 Here is what I have Frank. I have never done this job Frank, I hope someone who has actually done this job will provide you with some tips... Mike Generator Replacement Removal Procedure Caution Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures. If a tool or equipment could easily come in contact with a live exposed electrical terminal, also disconnect the negative battery cable. Failure to follow these precautions may cause personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the accessory drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Remove the upper front bolt. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Remove the front engine splash shield. Remove the radiator support access panel. Loosen the rear generator bracket from the engine. Remove the top bolt. Remove the front lower mounting bolt. Remove the lower rear mounting bolt. Remove the upper rear mounting bolt. Remove the duct from the back of the generator. Disconnect the following electrical connections: Regulator Battery output Heated windshield (if equipped). Remove the front generator/ A/C bracket. Rotate the generator and remove. Installation Procedure Install the generator. Install the front generator/ A/C bracket. Connect the following electrical connections: Regulator Battery output Tighten Tighten the battery output cable to 20 N·m (15 lb ft). Heated windshield (if equipped). Install the duct to the back of the generator. Align the duct to the generator black duct. Install the upper rear mounting bolt. Tighten Tighten the upper rear mounting bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft). Install the lower rear mounting bolt. Tighten Tighten the lower rear mounting bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft). Install the front mounting bolt. Tighten Tighten the front mounting bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft). Install the rear generator bracket bolt to the engine. Tighten Tighten the bracket mounting bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft). Install the upper front bolt. Install the radiator support access panel. Install the front engine splash shield. Lower the vehicle. Tighten the upper front bolt. Tighten Tighten the upper front bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft). Install the accessory drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Connect the negative battery cable. Tighten Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 N·m (11 lb ft). Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkz71 Posted January 14, 2007 Report Share Posted January 14, 2007 On my 95 I believe I unbolted the pass side dog bone & removed the pass side fan. Also the inner rear alt bolt wont come out, it hits the exhaust manifold but it does unthread from the alt. After you remove the access panel it comes out through the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkz71 Posted January 14, 2007 Report Share Posted January 14, 2007 The FSM tell you to remove both fans, I only removed the fan by the alternator. (pass side) Here the page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenD Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 If I'm not mistaken, can this not be dropped down throught the front wheel well? 1994 STS Pearl White 260,000 KM (163,000 miles) <img src="http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v137/caesar/caddycaesar.jpg" border="0" class="linked-sig-image" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 If you're going to drop the alternator down next to the radiator my advice would be to protect the radiator with heavy cardboard or thin piece of Luann. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 Good tip MAC, I have actually damaged a radiator once dropping a wrench. I will probably go to see how Frank is doing Wednesday, he doesn't have metric wrenches, so I will bring some wrenches and tools with me. He had a hard time getting the car home, and the transmission was acting up, does that sound right to you guys as the battery runs down? I am glad to see that the radiator does not have to come out. I was actually surprised as to how easily the AC Compressor came out, so I am hoping that the access will be reasonable through the wheel well. Here is the thread where it was discussed how difficult R&Ring the alternator is. In this thread Jamesq was rude to Scotty and it got a little heated....those of you that get squeamish witnessing conflict have been warned http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...p;hl=alternator Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkz71 Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 I am glad to see that the radiator does not have to come out. I was actually surprised as to how easily the AC Compressor came out, so I am hoping that the access will be reasonable through the wheel well. You don't gain access through the wheel well for the alternator. Note that the FSM instuctions don't even say to remove the tire as you do for the compressor. I think I did remove the plastic panel unde the radiator for working clearence. This isn't that hard. It took me about an hour. The alternator comes out the bottom through the radiator support once you remove the access panel in step 14 of the FSM instuctions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.