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My turn....PO741


Logan

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Hmmm....70 mph....2 quick burps in trans....that cant be good.

Now getting hard current PO741. Overdrive issue. Also getting hard current PO1860.

I guess the PO1860 is the good news. Chances are the solenoid went open or shorted. I think the PO174 is simply a result of PO1860.

Maybe that water pump leak last summer messed up the trans wiring plug. Very long shot but maybe...I'll check that first. Have to go there first anyway to messure the solenoid resistance.

I suspect I will be going in to the trans at some point. Going to do it in the car. I will have to drop the cradle to some extent to get the trans cover off. The job will be similar to this post:

http://caddyinfo.onedgesolutions.com/howto/pc0717.htm

See attached picture and yellow circle for PO1860.... TCC solenoid.

post-2-1165173839.jpg

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It appears....the problem is in the trans. 2.7 ohms wont cut it. Should be 10-15 ohms. Internal TCC solenoid short.

See pic. You can see the gray 20 way trans plug.

Also note transmission side cover that has to come off. Huge pan and 'tall' in car. Engine cradle will have to be dropped a foot at least. No 4-5 inch drop here...

post-2-1165427767.jpg

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Could be hail storm damage <_< Sorry you have the problem, I've had it for quit sometime but at 238k I don't know if its worth the trouble

Keep us posted

Joe

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Logan, nice diagnosis.

I am interested in your job, I need to replace my ISS, if you are near it, you might consider replacing it while you are there. I got a price on it of about $50.

If you could post your experience on this I would appreciate it greatly. For instance are you going to drop the carriage straight down or tilt it to get at the side pan?

Are you doing this on a lift or the ground? Maybe if I am close I should replace my TCC solenoid....

Any tips you have will be greatly appreciated.

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Logan, i would be interested to know how many miles on transmission?

147K

I really dont think the cradle can be tilted far enough to access the cover.

My current idea......replace the cradle bolts with very long threaded shafts (maybe 2 feet long). Then using nuts I can lower the cradle in a rather fast but controlled way. Engine and trans together.

Struts stay in. Disconnect the 2 strut bolts at the knucke.

I dont have to mess with axles at all.

I would need to disconnect coolant lines and AC lines. Not bad..doable...

ABS, brake lines, and Air pump issues. Wiring..

Just thinking it thru..

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I like the idea of the long bolts or all thread that would definately make dropping the carriage a controlled process. I like it..

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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I like the idea of the long bolts or all thread that would definately make dropping the carriage a controlled process. I like it..

Yeah, sounds nice. If I can find any good quality metric ones that long.

Looked at the car today for an hour trying to gel up the process....

Using a tape measure. It appears a 11-12 inch drop should allow access. I am shooting for 12..

AC system will have to be opened up. No big deal.

Cooling system will have to be opened. No big deal. Its ready for a flush anyway..

ABS unit and air pump will have to be unbolted from cradle. No big deal.

Some of the thermostat housing will have to be removed to clear ABS pump.

Steering column/ rack 1 bolt. Easy.

ABS sensor/ strut disconnect from hub...easy.

Computer toss on top of engine....couple of fuel lines....couple of wire harness plugs...

I think it can be done without disconnecting the exhaust.

I DID call Cadillac today for a quote. It must of sounded like I knew what I was talking about. GM book shows 6 hours...Yeah right. Cadillac dealer said 12-14...I said yeah right. I know its not 6 but I also know its not 14 hours. Anyway, 10 hours is the sort of agreed build time. So $900 plus parts/fluid if I go that route.

I do agree with..if you have done this a couple times...and the equipment is there. The rack can be down in 90 minutes.

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Logan, you have said a couple of times now that you would need to open the ac system. Are you sure of that? What makes you think that? I have seen the carriage dropped at the caddy dealer without depressurizing and opening the AC system. I am hoping I don't need to open the ac. There is a photo someplace where the compressor is laid on the side. Have you seen that? Ill find it for you.

post-2998-1165903746.jpg

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Logan, you have said a couple of times now that you would need to open the ac system. Are you sure of that? What makes you think that? I have seen the carriage dropped at the caddy dealer without depressurizing and opening the AC system. I am hoping I don't need to open the ac. There is a photo someplace where the compressor is laid on the side. Have you seen that? Ill find it for you.

That is an idea I had today. I think ony 4 bolts hold the AC comp to block. Something I was going to look into.

Recharging the AC is really pretty easy. Not a show stopper...

I am just planning the job upfront. 80% planning..20% actually doing the work. Learned that from Japan Inc.

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I posted a photo above after you saw my post, check it out.

I am like you, I plan the entire job up front, so by the time I am ready to do the job, it goes easily.. I have dreamt about the ISS job so many times after reading the manual. Your idea of the long bolts/all-threads is a fantastic idea... Love it

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I posted a photo above after you saw my post, check it out.

I am like you, I plan the entire job up front, so by the time I am ready to do the job, it goes easily.. I have dreamt about the ISS job so many times after reading the manual. Your idea of the long bolts/all-threads is a fantastic idea... Love it

Oh oh....I just hit 1000 posts. Please tell Bruce that Paris can come by about 6?

Anyway, thanks for the AC pic.

I think the Cadillac dealer repair way is: Use GM top engine cross mount. Drop cradle. Drop trans. Fix trans. Reverse. I really do not want my dealer to pull axles etc. No need for it in this case.

Bolts: Great idea. But they would have be very high quality. Like strut spring compression stuff.

Looking for a tool rental place nearby tommorrow. Maybe they have some clever cradle/engine tool. After that it is off to find some long 18 inch metric threaded bolts.

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The repair might happen this weekend...

Weather would be perfect...

63 degrees is the forecast..... Bet it will be really 40..

post-2-1165907033.gif

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I am interested in your job, I need to replace my ISS, if you are near it, you might consider replacing it while you are there. I got a price on it of about $50.

I also need to replace my ISS. I'll be watching this thread. Logan, this weekend does look good. I'm just outside of Chattanooga. They say low 60's and 0% chance of rain.

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I posted a photo above after you saw my post, check it out.

I am like you, I plan the entire job up front, so by the time I am ready to do the job, it goes easily.. I have dreamt about the ISS job so many times after reading the manual. Your idea of the long bolts/all-threads is a fantastic idea... Love it

Oh oh....I just hit 1000 posts. Please tell Bruce that Paris can come by about 6?

Anyway, thanks for the AC pic.

I think the Cadillac dealer repair way is: Use GM top engine cross mount. Drop cradle. Drop trans. Fix trans. Reverse. I really do not want my dealer to pull axles etc. No need for it in this case.

Bolts: Great idea. But they would have be very high quality. Like strut spring compression stuff.

Looking for a tool rental place nearby tommorrow. Maybe they have some clever cradle/engine tool. After that it is off to find some long 18 inch metric threaded bolts.

Logan, why do you think the bolts will need to be very high quality? I would guess that total weight would be about 1000 pounds, but it will be spread between 6 bolts. I am thinking that I can find a hardened all thread and nuts, maybe I am wrong about that. Do we know the metric size of those bolts?

Will you be near the ISS sensor to replace it while you are there? In the following chart the ISS (#14) and Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve (#336) are in the transmission valve body. If it is convenient, since my car is 11 years old while I am there, I think I should replace both..

post-2998-1165929858.gif

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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It appears....long metric rods are available.

This would be a great solution/repair procedure.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?SITY...NC-T7L391316886

Cradle bolts are 14mm x 3 x 1.03

More info 10:15 am......

Found these. 2nd day air. 6 14mm rods, 1 meter each. $45.

http://cgi.ebay.com/M14-2-0-x-1-Meter-Stee...2QQcmdZViewItem

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That's great Logan! Thanks, Mike

I called the dealer and the service manager could not conceive of using bolts to lower the carriage, I find that narrow in his thinking but maybe he was being careful (legally). He also raised the issue of whether or not the bolts could hold the carriage as did you. My feeling is that if the six bolts can hold the carriage in in normal driving, on turns, accidents, etc. six bolts/all-threads should allow the carriage to be dropped straight down... I plan to lock two nuts back to back to hold the bolt/all-thread from turning.

Thanks

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Oops...theres one..

A misprint.

"Cradle bolts are 14mm x 3 x 1.03"

Should be "14mm x 2 x 1.03." Can be 14mm or M14

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Don't understand the concern about the quality of the threaded rods. The solution sounds great, but my feeble brains says that 6 rods, even cheap ones should hold that amount of hanging weight easily (tensile strength, right?). I am sure we have all walked under more weight being held up by less steel (relatively) in many churches, halls, or buildings of all sorts. IE, heavy chandeliers, etc .

'Course I once pulled an engine (peugeot 505td) using a 2x4 overhead, so don't pay attention to anything I say on this matter .... :lol: (ok, I changed it to a 4x4 when I put it back in, not that stupid).

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Don't understand the concern about the quality of the threaded rods. The solution sounds great, but my feeble brains says that 6 rods, even cheap ones should hold that amount of hanging weight easily (tensile strength, right?). I am sure we have all walked under more weight being held up by less steel (relatively) in many churches, halls, or buildings of all sorts. IE, heavy chandeliers, etc .

'Course I once pulled an engine (peugeot 505td) using a 2x4 overhead, so don't pay attention to anything I say on this matter .... :lol: (ok, I changed it to a 4x4 when I put it back in, not that stupid).

I agree, six bolts should hold the cradle coming straight down if you ask me..

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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  • 6 years later...

I have P0741 which turned on CEL. In Utah I cannot get the emissions inspection until the problem is fixed. So my caddy is useless.

First shift of the day into drive is very slow. After that it works fine.

Has anyone posted the process with pictures? For some reason I am not seeing the pictures posted in this thread.

Any help appreciated.

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This is a very old thread, with the last post in December 2006, over six years ago.

You didn't say which car has the P0741, the 1996 or the 1998 Deville. I'm getting information for this post from the 1997 model year FSM, which is probably good for both 1996 and 1998 model years as far as the P0741 DTC is concerned. The pages on P0741 are 7-118 and 7-119.

The P0741 will turn on the MIL. You should also get the "SERVICE TRANSMISSION message on the DIC. The first things it tells you to check are the transmission fluid level and the lines to the transmission oil cooler radiator. The cooler lines are important because the transmission has a "hot" mode in which the PCM will throw P0741 among other codes. If you are towing or overloading your Cadillac (Hay bale in the trunk of a Deville??? Entire Cub Scout troop in the car?) the transmission may go into the hot mode. In the hot mode, the transmission also will not go into 4th gear.

Another code that is important is P0719, Brake Switch Circuit Low Input, which indicates a fault in the brake switch or wiring that will cause the PCM to throw the P0741 code. If you have any other codes, please post them too.

The P0741 should not affect the first shift of the day. This is another reason to check the transmission fluid level.

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