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Tranny went bad


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So what should i do?

it happened in the freeway..i had to take the side streets home...took 40 friggen minutes...luckly i never hit anyone or vise versa....

So I'm thinking a tranny rebuild??? $1500 is way out of my range

I'm alos lucky that we still have our silverado laying around....or i wouldn't be able to get to school!

so instead of just storing the STS as far as i can into the driveway letingt it sit there until i have enough money, does anyone have a better solution???

take note everyone who has an STS...tranny went bye bye at 104k miles...for me that is...

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talked to my uncle whos a mechanic ( one who doesn't like working on my car...something about how he doesnt like cars that break down easly <_< )

he said if my trans fluid is low or bad then gears can slip...but the thing is my trans only slips when it trys to go into 4th or overdrive...i had to leave th gear slecter in 3rd all the way how..keeping speeds below 50mph :blink:

so i will take the car in maybe monday or saturday depending on my scheduale....is there a way to check my trans fluid???? i know it should be colored red or at least close to red for that matter....

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Here area few simple checks you can do to get a rough diagnosis of the tranny.

1. Check fluid color. It should be a nice bright red. If it's dirty brown, you really need to change it, but even then it might already be too late. If it's black you definitely have a problem.

2. Check smell, if it smells burnt, that is a problem.

3. Check level with engine on (self explanatory)

4. Drop pan and check for metal debris. Black dust at the bottom of pan is normal, just clean it out and replace fluid and filter. Chunks of metal is bad.

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Howyadoin,

Before you climb out on the ledge... :)

I don't have a lot to go on regarding your situation, but my '93 STS lost the shift solenoids at about 130K, the symptoms sound familiar. It's not a hard job to replace them, if indeed that's the problem. A bit messy, requires you to remove, then open up the valve body. There's info in the old archives on it.

Does the transmission run fine until you get to overdrive, then it starts slipping like mad, then drops to 2nd gear and stays there? Are you getting any codes? There's a specific OBD-I code for solenoid failure, memory fails me right now, though it's in the archive IIRC.

Good luck!

-Mark P.

Salem, MA

IPB Image

"Refined Sugar" - '96 SLS, 175K

"...the Caddy is dedicated to relentlessly -- and comfortably -- converting time into distance." -J.J. Gertler

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P.S. Parts were cheap IIRC, around $100. Figure 3-4 hours labor with a service manual and a moderate supply of clue, less if they've done it before.

-Rav

-Mark P.

Salem, MA

IPB Image

"Refined Sugar" - '96 SLS, 175K

"...the Caddy is dedicated to relentlessly -- and comfortably -- converting time into distance." -J.J. Gertler

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Howyadoin,

Before you climb out on the ledge... :)

I don't have a lot to go on regarding your situation, but my '93 STS lost the shift solenoids at about 130K, the symptoms sound familiar.  It's not a hard job to replace them, if indeed that's the problem.  A bit messy, requires you to remove, then open up the valve body.  There's info in the old archives on it.

Does the transmission run fine until you get to overdrive, then it starts slipping like mad, then drops to 2nd gear and stays there?  Are you getting any codes?  There's a specific OBD-I code for solenoid failure, memory fails me right now, though it's in the archive IIRC.

Good luck!

Does the transmission run fine until you get to overdrive, then it starts slipping like mad, then drops to 2nd gear and stays there?

YES!!!!!!!!!!! thats exactly what is happeneing...what is it???? how can i fix it... please i need feedback...thanks again guys...your all great! :):)

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Heres what I think i should do this weekend or next monday... Walk into the dealer service department and ask how much it will cost to replace my shift solenoids.

one thing that pissed me off after learning that the solenoids went bad is that the mechanic who checked it earlier today told me that the whole tranny was going bad and that it will need a rebuild for whopping $1500 buks!!! should have slapped him in the face...

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What codes are stored?

Simultaneously press and hold the OFF and WARMER (or OFF and PASSENGER WARMER) buttons on the climate control panel and write down any codes that are displayed on the information center. Post back the results

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Cryin' won't help ya, prayin' won't do ya no good" (R. Plante) I can't believe it took a dozen posts before someone reminded you that thr FIRST thing to do is pull your codes. If the problem is the shift selenoids, it's a relatively easy and inexpensive fix.

With OBDI vehicles (pre '95), a P094 code will be set to indicate a shift 'A' selenoid failure. The archive has the exact Delco kit part number, I got mine for $70 but read some folks found it even cheaper. If your up to doing the replacment yourself, the archive also has detailed step-by-step instructions.

I, too, got the "you need a rebuild" story and "it happens all the time with these T480E's, it's going to be $1200 - $1500 to fix". You won't find dealerships or trans shops very friendly when you know what's wrong, have your own parts, and just want someone to install them for a reasonable price. Keep looking and asking, there are a couple of honest mechanics out there but their not easy to find. I had a local shop install mine for under $200 labor. Much better than $1200 - $1500! Good Luck.

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Listen to KHE and check your codes!!!

If your solenoids are bad you will have a P029 or a P094 code. It does sound like your shift solenoids. I had mine changed at a reputable mom & pop tranny shop for $70.00 labor. Parts were around $50.00 for the solenoid kit that includes both solenoids. Dealer will want $250 to $300 labor to change them out, if you can get them to not want to do a total rebuild. I had a dealer quote me $600 just to look at it. As stated before you can do it yourself if you are mechanically inclined. The solenoids are located just under the bottom tranny pan. It would also be a good time to change your fluid and clean the filter screens. It only takes about an hour and a half to change them.

Any time your "check engine" light comes on there is a code to direct you to the problem. Check them and post back.

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Heres what I think i should do this weekend or next monday... Walk into the dealer service department and ask how much it will cost to replace my shift solenoids.

Howyadoin,

Yikes! :o I'd stay away from the dealer on this one... It's really not that hard a job, no reason to pay a dealership's labor rates for this. A mom 'n pop shop should be able to handle this without too much drama, and for a lot less money.

Like Paul T. said, it's also a good chance to replace or clean the filters and get some fresh fluid in there. Don't let them do a flush, as this can cause crap to come loose and plug things up. Just replace the fluid that was lost in removing the pan and valve body and all will be good.

-Rav

-Mark P.

Salem, MA

IPB Image

"Refined Sugar" - '96 SLS, 175K

"...the Caddy is dedicated to relentlessly -- and comfortably -- converting time into distance." -J.J. Gertler

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Also when my shift solenoids went bad it light up the check engine light.

Mine first started with the 3rd to 4th shift going out, it would drop into second gear and stay until I shut the car off and restarted, then the check engine light would go out and I would be ok till that overdrive shift, then it happen again.

So I started driving in 3rd or just plain D, not overdrive and that did well for about 4 months then I lost the other shift solenoid, that controls the 2nd to 3rd shift.... there went the ball game.

Check your codes and see if your are getting a PO 94 (Shift solenoid "A" )or a PO 29(Shift soleniod "B") . Hold your warmer and off buttons togeather to read the codes.

I bought my solenoid kit from GM Parts direct for 58.00 ( I can give your the part numbers if you want), 8 qts of fluid, the trans pan gasket is reuseable, new filters (2) all for under 100.00.

If you want to repalce the solenoids there is lots of good info in the old archives or email me and I will send you the info I have on shift solenoid repalcement.

It is not had to do, just a messy job, that is time comsuming.

John

John

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Heres what I think i should do this weekend or next monday... Walk into the dealer service department and ask how much it will cost to replace my shift solenoids.

one thing that pissed me off after learning that the solenoids went bad is that the mechanic who checked it earlier today told me that the whole tranny was going bad and that it will need a rebuild for whopping $1500 buks!!! should have slapped him in the face...

Same thing happened to my 93 STS at 110k miles.

I took it first to the dealership (I only asked them to check the computer modules), they told me I needed a new transmission for $4000 installed (CAD).

Took it to MrTransmission and they took it for a day, put the solenoids in, changed filter etc for $350 CAD I think it was.

Much better than $4k :D

What made me mad is that the dealership charged $50 for giving me an incorrect diagnosis :angry:

-Chris

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Heres what I think i should do this weekend or next monday... Walk into the dealer service department and ask how much it will cost to replace my shift solenoids.

one thing that pissed me off after learning that the solenoids went bad is that the mechanic who checked it earlier today told me that the whole tranny was going bad and that it will need a rebuild for whopping $1500 buks!!! should have slapped him in the face...

Same thing happened to my 93 STS at 110k miles.

I took it first to the dealership (I only asked them to check the computer modules), they told me I needed a new transmission for $4000 installed (CAD).

Took it to MrTransmission and they took it for a day, put the solenoids in, changed filter etc for $350 CAD I think it was.

Much better than $4k :D

What made me mad is that the dealership charged $50 for giving me an incorrect diagnosis :angry:

you should have went back there and complained..they took advantage of you :angry:

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If its shift solenoids, here's the A to Z...

a) the job is a mess, be prepared.

B) drop the pan, and careful removing the tranny gasket, it is re-usable. Once you clean the pan, you can reset it with gasket sealer.

c) disconnect the solenoid electrical connectors and the mechanical linkage. The linkage has a metal clip you lift and slide.

d) remove the valve body screws, and drop the valve body.

e) place the valve body where you can afford a mess, it will continually leak. Best thing is to set it on cardboard on a bench. There is a valve spool that can be removed as well, careful it can slip out, you don't want to damage it.

f) remove the two clips holding the solenoids, careful they are spring-loaded and will fly

g) remove the screws holding the "large" portion of the valve body split, this is where the solenoids are incased. Remember the screw locations, there are about four different screw lengths

h) CAREFULLY remove split, there are 4 steel check balls loose inside the split (about 1/4" diameter, they will fly, as well)

i) inspect spacer plate, if the black coating is not chipping off you can re-use it, otherwise plan on spending another $ 70 at the dealership parts house. If you replace it you will have to remove the "smaller" split, as well. It also has three check balls.

j) replace the solenoids

k) now comes the fun,....you will note three holes in the spacer plate where three of the check balls reside, seat them there (appr. 3/16" diameter with a smaller relief hole next to it, as I remember). The fourth check ball will need to be inserted in a spherically-cast cavity which is near one the solenoids. You can set it with grease, I re-assembled successfully without using grease.

l) re-assemble valve body, carefully and equally torque.

m) you will note a square black plastic item near one of the solenoids, on the end. Replace this plastic filter with the new filter in the solenoid kit. The kit will also come with an L-shaped bracket that is to be used to "capture" this filter and keep it from backing out. The kit also comes with a slightly longer screw used to mount the bracket to the valve body (discard the old screw).

m) re-assemble valve body to transmission, hook up linkage and electrical connectors

n) replace both tranny filters

o) replenish fluid

p) reset codes

I am told there is a screw on the side of the tranny for also draining the torque converter, I did not know this at the time and did not perform this. There should be something in the Caddyinfo.com archives about this, recently.

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There IS a hidden drain plug for the side cover oil (where most of the oil is...) that is accessible once the lower pan is removed. The plug is pretty evident on the end of the trans under the side cover. That is probably what you were hearing about.

Thank you sir,..I personally appreciate the "detailed" information and fortitiude you reply...

Your fan,

Willie Hank

(P.S. You have saved me a lot of money......)

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Guys this maybe from "another opera" but still transmission related. Two years ago I could not negotiate a curve in havy rain and got off road with right front wheel spinning on the grass. A road sign stopped the car from farther skidding. The biggest damage appeared to be a transmission problem. Since that day I cannot take off as I used to do. I have to move really slowly, get some 15 miles/hour than carefully speed up. A real challenge is taking off while moving up hill. If I am not carefull a terrible grinding noise comes under the car ( I think in transmission area).

Well I made some 25kmiles since, but still afraid it will let me down some where some day. Any suggestions, what it might be and how to fix.

Thanks in advance.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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try a tranny flush and put a can of trans-x in it,very important trans-x works wonders.i had a 89 chevy G20 van w/89,000miles on it tranny started slipping i flushed it put in new filter still slipped then i put trans-x in (just an additive) i drove it for 5 yrs. and w/180,000 miles still fine even after i sold it. cheap try.p.s. i drove it hard for 5 yrs. ;) remember 1 can of trans-x.get it at advanced auto parts,pep boys etc...in a greenish can.

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I will have to disagree with the last post. From what I have heard, I will never flush a tranny on anything. What happens over time is things wear out inside your tranny and shavings build up go everywhere inside. Some go to the magnet in the bottom of the pan but most will be in your torque converter and stay stuck to the outside from the spinning. What happens when you flush a tranny is it takes all of those shavings in the torque converter and flushes them through the entire tranny. These shavings will, after time TEAR EVERYTHING APART, even with new oil. I talked to a local transmission shop owner that I trust with anything I own who said if local oil change places stopped flushing transmissions, he would go out of business. Do not flush your tranny...change the oil and filter, add an additive, clean the shavings off the magnet in the pan and keep driving.

Lucas Lubricants makes an excellent transmission additive as well as many other lubricants.

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