kcd1184 Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Does anyone remember if it was the upper or lower trans cooling line that you use for draining the tranny? I remember the Guru felt this was a safe method. Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Kent, I am not positive, but I would think that the upper is supply and lower is return. See if anyone else agrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcd1184 Posted October 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Hi Ranger. What does that mean? Use the return for draining? Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 I can speak for '98 and later. The line at the top of the radiator tank is the return to the transmission sump. If your year model uses the quick disconnect type plumbing arrangement, I can post a picture of the brass fitting I modified to allow easy access to the plumbing and no mess to clean up. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcd1184 Posted October 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 The top line is the return as I found out too late. I disconnected the top line and had a plastic tube on the line. The fluid came out of the radiator. So much for not making a mess. I went to the parts store and got a short line and fitting to hook up to the radiator. I'll put my hose on the correct side this time and see how it goes. Tranny and coolant change today. I'll let you knw how it turns out. Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 The drivers side of the radiator has two tranny cooler pipes. The upper pipe is the return. I had a length of pipe made up with a bend in it to screw into the radiator for the purpose of draining my tranny. I screw it in, connect a hose, and put the hose over the fender into a bucket. Bruce: If you can, can you merge this into Kent's Draining trans thread, Thanks Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 This was done on 4.9, but you might find it helpful. BTW, you may disconnect the line right from the tranny as well. On my car the ATF was pumped out through the lower line connected to the radiator side tank. http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=10488 The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 The top line is the return as I found out too late. There goes my credibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcd1184 Posted October 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 The top line is the return as I found out too late. There goes my credibility. Ranger, this project ,as always is getting drawn out. When you do things yourself , other stuff always pops up. I belong to a club that is called the 3 L (LLL) club . Live and Let Live. I'd be much more disappointed if you didn't chime in when you see a topic by me. Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAC Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 I bought a brass fitting and tubbing at Home Depot and I'm going to drain the transaxle as follows: 1) disconnect the top line (return line); 2) screw in the brass fitting; 3) connect plastic line and cut line to length; 4) place line in bucket or other suitable container and secure line in container so it doesn't fly out; 5) start and drain. It's not easy to maneuver the lower line in such a way to have a clean feed into a container. You may have a better way but I thought this way would do the job. Just bare in mind that I have not yet drained my trans this way so I can't vouch for this method. But I see any reason why it shouldn't work. I believe the 3/8-inch fitting should work. Nylon fittings can also be purchased. If you're concerned about damaging the radiator threads nylon would be a better option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcd1184 Posted October 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 All done. In the course of getting things workways, I noticed that the upper radiator hose had swelled up enough so that the radiator frame bracket that attaches to the driver's side dog bone was rubbing small spots in it. Replaced both hoses. I replaced both dog bones 20,000 miles ago but both are sloppy again. Anybody know how tight the bushings should be? Pumping the trans fluid out via the upper return line is great. Makes dropping the pan a whole bunch easier. Forgot that I had bought the reusable gasket when I changed fluid the first time. That was nice. When I dropped the pan, the back filter was in the tray. Hasn't been acting funny except for that annoying 56 code.(shifts normal in my opinion 99% of the time) Put the three tabs in the new lower hose. Didn't come with a spring inside so I removed the old hose spring and put it inside the new one. It needs it. Thinking about new tires . Milage says yes but I still have 50%+ on tread depth. Cooper's are spinning a little on wet pavement. 40,000 miles on them. Well I didn't get to road test last night because of rain. Here's hoping. Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 Thanks for the info on how well it drains, I will use this technique when I change my ISS.. Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 I replaced both dog bones 20,000 miles ago but both are sloppy again. Anybody know how tight the bushings should be? They have a little play in them Kent. My '97 was like that and I never replaced them. Sold it at 107K and they were kust like when I bought it at 17K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 Here is the adapter I had made up to screw into my return, although now seeing Mac's I like his idea better, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 I replaced both dog bones 20,000 miles ago but both are sloppy again. Anybody know how tight the bushings should be? Forgot that I had bought the reusable gasket when I changed fluid the first time. The dogbones are not a tight fit to begin with - I wouldn't worry about it unless there are chunks missing. The trans pan gasket is not reusable - it is stated in bold print in the shop manual. If it has only been on there a few miles, I'd be inclined to reuse it but if it has been awhile since you dropped the pan, get a new gasket at the GM parts counter. The aftermarket gaskets are all junk - none of them have the steel bushings, they're just cork... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcd1184 Posted October 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 I'll have to do some checking , but I am under the impression that this gasket is for more than one application. It is rubber with a rigid metal implant,(no flopping)and it has two parallel ridges running continous on both sides. I have used the same type on my Durango and there are no problems. No scraping involved. Wipe down tranny flange, gasket, pan rim, and you are good to go. Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 The shop manual from GM specifically states "The pan gasket is NOT reusable"..... That's good enough for me. The last thing I want when changing the trans. fluid is a leak..... and having to do the job all over again. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcd1184 Posted October 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 I'm just trying to find out if we might be talking about two different gaskets. Go figure. Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 23, 2006 Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 I suspect they changed gaskets. I swear my '97 manual said that it was reusable, because I did not buy a new one and it was as Kent discribes. I reused it and it never leaked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkz71 Posted October 23, 2006 Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 1995 FSM also says gasket "Not reusable" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 23, 2006 Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 I suspect they changed gaskets. I swear my '97 manual said that it was reusable, because I did not buy a new one and it was as Kent discribes. I reused it and it never leaked. You are right, the guru used to say they were re-useable. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 23, 2006 Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 Personally, I wouldn't risk it as it is a messy job to have to do twice.... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcd1184 Posted October 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 Drove into Chicago to work today. 180 miles round trip. No cooling system leaks or tranny leaks (so far). Question... If PO056 has been showing up on and off every day for around a year, what could changing the trans fluid and filters have done to make the code and service engine light NOT come on once today? Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 Personally, I wouldn't risk it as it is a messy job to have to do twice.... Oh I agree 100%. Who needs a leak Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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