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  1. Today
  2. Ok so I have a sigh of relief. I went underneath mine and snapped some pics. The part numbers of the arms match the donors😁 So the difference is the rod ball mount. My Seville has the leveling sensors above the arms near the shock. So the link arm goes from the leveling sensor down to the arm. The Deville and Eldo have the leveling sensor below the upper arm which means that the ball is mounted to the underside of the control arm and goes down to the sensor. The holes are present on the arm for either setup. 2 mount holes on the driver side one, 1 on the right. So if you look in my pics that show the tops of the control arms it can be seen that both upper holes are empty. I need to switch my links over to them. I will post some pics when I do the job
  3. So today I drove it pretty hard. No codes, no issues. Weird. I will have to see if anything reoccurs. Oh boy she takes off like a rocket though. Love the v8, The Northstar has its own sound unlike any other v8. Have to be prepared for the torque steer though. Can surprise you. Incredibly smooth and tight ride though, amazing for being over 20 years old
  4. Hi all. In the recent work I did to my 97 Seville I noted that the rear upper control arms have cracking in the rubber that is excessive. Looks like from a chemical that caused them to swell. Anyway I am having such difficulty finding parts for this car. They are discontinued, look to be Seville only, and They are pretty much non existent in my area yards. I picked up a set today from a 1997 Deville as one of the references said they match the Seville. But others say they dont. But Mine has RSS which means it has the ride control rod attached to the upper arms. The Deville only had one on the left rear. Has anyone ever done anything with these? The Deville donors I picked up are excellent but I dont want to attempt it until I know for sure. I was wondering if they ever made bushings for them. They look to be pressed into the arm. The arm is aluminum. The part numbers on the donors dont match any of the ones I looked up. 22156329 LH donor 22156330 RH donor. I will have to look again at mine for my part numbers
  5. Hi all. I finally have success with this. I hope that my struts are still good. Everything has just been sitting in boxes waiting for me to do the install. I pulled the donor parts off at my local pick and pull. For the record I could not find these listed anywhere A little surface rust but otherwise in excellent condition. I did not need the bellows but I grabbed them anyway
  6. Last week
  7. Can I presume that it is a 3/4" silicone heater hose? I found a piece of high temp (350 degrees) 3/4/hose.
  8. Hej Om du inte hittat nåt annat finns online manual på bla styrning och uppbyggnad. Shop Manual/05-Power Steering/image22.html Hela manualen till 1957 finns där. Har rotat med en 58 för många år sedan men glömt hur jag gjorde MVH / Caddysurfer
  9. @BodybyFisher Thank you ! I think I did another post on the inlet removal a while back???????
  10. The A/c does not have to be evacuated. Disconnect the mounting bolts and let it hang. Clamp and/or hose removal is pretty easy after that. Most of the time it is the inlet leaking but you may be the exception.
  11. I agree. Makes me sick. Its one thing to be made in another country, but it is plastered on the parts. I give a good example. The front end on most of the Full size buses I work on is Spicer. But the fact that it is made in India is the biggest words on the whole thing Brake lines is what I changed. The only ground I touched was the one on the pump itself, which I cleaned when I replaced the pump. I have also added another ground to that stud just to be safe Thank you. I love The Seville. I must admit though that it is very difficult to find parts for it. They are nearly impossible to find and are a animal of their own
  12. They are screw clamps. It must have been repaired before. There are 2 different style screw clamps on it. I am dropping the a/c compressor now. The fsm does not have very good diagrams. it is hard to tell which bolts to remove.
  13. Well this is actually good news. Is this a screw clamp or a spring clamp? To me the easiest way is to remove the front cover which will entail removing the crank pulley. But that will give you access to the water pump inlet/water pump assembly to inspect it, replace the crank seal and water inlet gasket. I dont remember if the crank pulley can be removed easily through the wheel well however or if the engine carriage must be dropped. I linked OldCadTech he is familiar with this job, lets see if he stops by. @OldCadTech
  14. I put the pressure on and I can see the leak coming off of one of the clamps to the silicone hose that has been mentioned here. Now I need all of your expert advise as to what it is going to take to get to it. I appreciate all of the advise I have received!
  15. @bschelle here is a different view of what Logan posted. I couldnt send this in a PM I just noticed this involves the front cover, interesting. I just found this thread I found the water pump inlet in 2016! Check this @bschelle
  16. @bschelle here is a different view of what Logan posted. I couldnt send this in a PM I just noticed this involves the front cover, interesting.
  17. Thanks guys! I am taking my camera snake and see if I can pinpoint the leak. I'll be back with the results. Thanks again!
  18. Yes, that plug is terrible. Ill bet you resetting it will help. Also consider any grounds you might have loosened or disturbed. Your codes are on the right side, so it may be related. There is a ground on the ABS motor itself. I would also, R&R the wheel sensor plugs and spray them with contact cleaner and reattach. That is a beautiful Seville.
  19. Which line did you replace, brake lines? That is VERY upsetting that AC Delco is made in China, but don't get me started. Lets transfer more intellectual property and manufacturing to them, huh?, we need to manufacture again, the state sanctioned slavery has to stop.
  20. So I had mixed success today in finishing up The Seville. Transmission went good. cooling system went good Oil change went good. Got the boot back on the rack ok. Just is a tight press fit. Now to the test drive. Started good. Brake pedal is good, had to burnish the rotors though (winter storage) No lights were on at first but when I did a hard acceleration on the highway once I got to about 60 mph the abs and traction lights came on. Pulled and cleared codes, came right back. Codes are 1233, and 1235. I believe that is RF and RR Speed sensor fault. It is intermittent. Was not a issue before I started all of the work. I did not unplug either hub. Only the LF iirc. I am thinking maybe the plug to the EBTCM.. Grr. I dont care for the design of that plug. Very easy to break as well. It seems like it only triggers on a good acceleration. Half the times I did it the lights triggered. Sometimes they did not. Not looking forward to having to mess with that again, but will see
  21. @bschelle here is a different view of what Logan posted. I couldnt send this in a PM
  22. Ed Hall used the 350 injectors in the 4.9 and it ran rich, and was planning on going to the 305 injector here. I am going to ask Ed here >>> @Ed Hall < How did this turn out?, its been a while, I hope all is fine with you, Mike <<< So you would also get a rich mixture using the 350 injectors on the 4.9. Does that help?
  23. Welcome Here is the connector. You can see on the connector a clip/ear, it must be GENTLY lifted up on while pulling back on the plug (don't pull the wires). If you pull too hard the clip will snap off, so be gentle, this is especially true as the plastic ages and become brittle. Here is a photo. There is little room in there to work, use lots of light and go slow. I have luck with flat tools that I can slip under the end and gently lift as I pull. Make sure you retain the wires so they don't touch the hot manifold when you are done.
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