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Cadillac Jim

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Cadillac Jim last won the day on October 28 2021

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About Cadillac Jim

  • Birthday 09/22/2015

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2011 CTS-V Sedan
  • Engine
    Supercharged 6.2L (LSA)

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    http://jameskbeard.com
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    Male
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    South Jersey
  • Interests
    Handling, performance, reliability, maintenance, photography, math, science, physics, engineering, Cadillacs

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  1. I recommend that you make sure that whoever repairs your car uses Timeserts and new GM head bolts for your specific engine. You can order them by VIN at any GM dealer or online through GMPartsDirect and other GM dealers that offer parts online. The reasons for my opinion are Timesert thread repairs offer huge strength increase over original aluminum threads. Northstar torque-and-twist head bolts are in fact tension springs that moderate head clamping forces over the temperature range of the engine during all operations, including overheating and limp-home mode. The second one is most important, because the thinking behind most "improved" repairs are that the OEM head bolts are weak and such, which is not at all true. If you use head bolts that don't match the OEM head bolts for tension spring constant, and have about the same temperature expansion, the head clamping forces during normal operation will be far higher than the head and head gasket are designed for. Video on exhaustive test of aluminum thread repairs: The comparison of failure strengths for the original and repaired aluminum threads is near the end. Please forgive the additional 90% of the video that isn't relevant to Northstar head bolts.
  2. I see no photos. Save them to disk, make the folder visible above the Browser window with your new message showing, then, do one of these things: With the mouse, right-click on the icon for the photo and drag it to the paper clip icon at the lower right of the new message, OR, Click on the underlined "choose files..." which will open a file manager window; then navigate to the photo and click on its icon. If you need to crop the photo, or "fix" the lightness or color, use GIMP, a free substitute for Photoshop. Get GIMP here: https://www.gimp.org/downloads/ for Windows, Mac, or Linux.
  3. You download and install GIMP for free, download or email the photos in the iPhone to the computer, and use GIMP to resize the photos for uploading. GIMP website: https://www.gimp.org/downloads/ GIMP has versions for Windows, Mac, LInux, and others. Macs on the new M1 Apple chip is in the works but not available yet.
  4. When you have made the checks that rockfangd recommends, you have looked at the essentials. If fixing battery, ground, and fuse box connections is all you need, great, you are done. My FSM DVD goes back to 2002 but not to 2001. I'm going to assume that the electrical distribution is the same for the Deville in the 2001 and 2002 model years. If the problem is still there, it is likely a cracked fuse (looks OK and works sometimes). In the rear fuse block, the 10 Amp IGN 1 fuse, if cracked, can cause difficulties with the gauges and radio. Other fuses include 10 Amp INT LP fuse and 30 Amp AUDIO AMP fuse. The FSM drawing of the area under the rear seat on the passenger side is attached. The legend for the numbers is: (1) Battery Positive Terminal (2) Battery Negative Terminal (3) G300 (4) SP300 (5) G301 (SP301) (6) Fuse Block-Rear (7) S322 (w/V4U) (Limo) (8) S323 (w/B9Q) (Hearse) (9) SP308 (10) SP307 The points labeled SPnnn are splice junctions, or wiring junctions. The Snnn are simple splices, and the only ones in this diagram, (7) and (8), are commercial vehicles, certainly not the DHS. The Gnnn points are grounds.
  5. You can't go wrong with Cadillac's recommendation, Timeserts and new studs from GM. As you note, the GM studs are torque-and-twist. This method uses long studs from the head to the bottom of the head bolt well in the block as a tension spring, and keeps head clamping force within bounds as the bock heats up and cools down. Torque-and-twist is a time-honored method for reliable had studs on aluminum engines of all makes. Using steel bolts that are too wide to stretch as the block heats and cools is well-known to result in too-high clamping forces if the engine overheats. If you end up pulling the engine again for further repairs, see if you can get the recommended Timeserts for your engine installed.
  6. There is room for both engine types in autos. As an engineer, I see turbines as the best technology for long-haul 18-wheelers and even trains, but turbines have obvious carbon-capture problems. Trains have used diesels with electric motors powering the drive wheels since 1924, and turbines driving the generators are the obvious modern design. For short trips, stop-and-go, plug-in electric is the obvious choice, with some competition from PZEV turbo four-cylinder engines which have decades of development behind them. For the near term, I see plug-ins and hybrids as becoming dominant in consumer vehicles that are used in town 99% of the time, combustion engines for commercial trucks that run all day, and diesels and diesel-electric hybrids for long haul trucks. I don't mention turbines because turbines have never found a niche in the automotive world. Sports cars are a separate consideration, and there are many kinds of sports cars, so the drivetrain technology will likely fork, too. All-electrics have the edge in drag racing, for example, and you will not see an all-electric entry in a 500-mile race anytime soon.
  7. The all-electric future is a lot farther away than most realize. You can't jump in any all-electric vehicle and take a two-day road trip. Somebody decided to cancel the 4.4 l DOHC Blackwing V8 before developing it to produce 700 hp and remain warrantable to 100,000 miles. The 6.2 LT is about the same weight and its size is manageable.
  8. Looking at the Cadillac.com first page on the "build and price" pages for the CT4 and CT5 Blackwing, the CT4 uses a twin-turbo 3.6 liter V6 rated at 472 hp, and the CT5 uses a hand-built supercharged 6.2 liter V8 rated at 668 hp, apparently adapted from the Corvette supercharged engine.
  9. I would start with making sure all the fuses are good, then disconnecting the battery for a minute or two. After driving the car for a day or two to let everthing relearn, go to Autozone or other outfit that will read your OBD II codes if you are still having problems. Please post the OBD II codes here. The codes will likely tell what is not working or getting power.
  10. There are two fuses to check: Under hood fuse block, fuse 42 RDO, 15 Amp, and the instrument panel fuse block fuse RSE, 5 Amp. Going farther than that needs more information. Does your nav system or anything else on the front seat screen come on? Any other details will help. The best thing to do is to go by an Autozone or other outfit that will read out your OBD codes and give them to you, then post them here.
  11. All cars have an oil filter adaptor, because casting a block with an oil filter center thread and O-ring gap is not really a thoughtful thing to do. If anyone ever puts a jack under your oil filter, you will be thankful for that feature. If someone has put a dummy in place of your oil filter, that's not a good thing to leave there. Chilton's manuals are still available for vintage cars, and you can verify the oil filter placement and part number for name brands like Fram or AC/Delco. If you need a new adaptor, a salvage yard is your best option. Oil pressure sending units should still be available form the aftermarket. JC Whitney specializes in parts for cars 10-20 years old but has parts for older cars as well. Recycling yard engines for Cadillac years 1963-1975, endings with 390 ci, 429 ci, 472 ci, and 500 ci have similar accessory mounting and the oil filter adaptor should work on your 1963 engine. The older engines were a different design, even the 1959-1962 390 cid, and most parts aren't interchangeable with 1963 and later engines.
  12. What happens when the pedal is on the medal and the engine is holding at 3000 RPM? Is is missing and stuttering, or is it just wheezing and holding? If it's missing and stuttering, it could be ignition problems. If it's wheezing but smooth, it could be a clogged catalytic converter. That's just a sample of the possibilities. We need more information to figure things out. The OBD codes can tell exactly what is wrong. The OBD codes don't show as blinking lights, and sometimes they don't cause a "Check Engine" light to come on. And, the bulb in the "Check Engine" light can be out. An Autozone, Pep Boys, or other similar shop will check your OBD I (OBD II started in the 1996 model year) trouble codes. There is a way to get them from the A/C console yourself, if you are prepared to figure it out for your car.
  13. The two most likely causes of a B0533 are a wiring problem and a worn-out fuel level sensor. Unplugging the harness and plugging it back in, disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, resetting the codes from the A/C controls, all will have the same effect until the problem is fixed: no change. But this won't keep your car from starting. What other codes do you have? The codes most likely to cause a no-start condition are Pnnnn (powertrain) codes.
  14. There are too many digits in your code; I'll assume that it is B0533 Fuel Sensor Open/Shorted To B+ That could be just a bad connection somewhere between the tank and the PCM. But, usually, it's a bad fuel level sensor, contact worn out and gone open. Is your gas gauge pinned to Empty or Full? You can read and reset the codes from the HVAC controls on a 1997; see link in my signature block.
  15. This is the first time I've seen a transmission service solve a no-drive problem too. Yes, I service my transmission every 60,000 miles at most. Before Dexron VI, it was every 30,000 miles. Other than a used car that I bought with an overfilled transmission, I've never had an auto transmission problem.
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