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Coolant loss


Spurlee

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If the connections are good, I think I'd throw a tempurture sensor at it based on those codes.

I hope everyone is right and that it's not too serious. I had the car towed over to the dealership because they could take it today and they gave me a 2006 Cadillac SLX as a free loaner car. I don't like the loaner car, would much rather have preferred a Deville, but it will do for a day or two. :lol:

Wish me luck with the old greyhound. I'll keep everyone informed and thank you everyone, for your help on this!!

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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One of the last things if you recall that went wrong with my 91 Seville 4.9 was that I blew a fusible link that controlled the cooling fans, AC Clutch and horn. I didn't know that it had blown, and my temp went to 265 degrees. When the fans don't work, the temp immediately increases.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Marika, I did some research to see how the coolant sensor affects the cooling fans and found this regarding the HIGH FANS. Notice that when Codes E014 and E015 are present, the fans are commanded to HIGH. I still think you are having some ODD problem with the cooling fans, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Marika, I did some research to see how the coolant sensor affects the cooling fans and found this regarding the HIGH FANS. Notice that when Codes E014 and E015 are present, the fans are commanded to HIGH. I still think you are having some ODD problem with the cooling fans, Mike

post-2998-1145927948.jpg

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Marika, I did some research to see how the coolant sensor affects the cooling fans and found this regarding the HIGH FANS. Notice that when Codes E014 and E015 are present, the fans are commanded to HIGH. I still think you are having some ODD problem with the cooling fans, Mike

Well, let the dealership hook it up to whatever and find the problem. Whatever it is, no one else has been able to find it or fix it. I've put out so much money on this car for repairs it's not even needed, I'm flat broke at this point. My boss is loaning me the money to pay the dealership to fix the car and then I'll pay him back bit by bit. This is crazy. I should have stayed in New York City where they have buses and trains and I would never have needed a car and I would be rich today without one :lol::(

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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Marika, I did some research to see how the coolant sensor affects the cooling fans and found this regarding the HIGH FANS. Notice that when Codes E014 and E015 are present, the fans are commanded to HIGH. I still think you are having some ODD problem with the cooling fans, Mike

Whatever it is, no one else has been able to find it or fix it.

Intermittant problems are the hardest problems to diagnose and fix, the problem HAS to occur when the mechanic has the car if it doesn't he can't find it..

I currently have an interior lighting problem that is intermittant and its driving me crazy.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Yeah, I'd say so. If you are smelling coolant, there is an external leak unless it is coming from the overflow. An external leak does not eliminate a head gasket but sure does lessen the probability.

That's exactly what my situation was - only leaked when under pressure and at a very hard to see spot under the neck. I found it by finding a damp spot and working up from there. I only smelled collant every so often. Under a pressure test though, the side of the radiator would get wet.

Scott

1996 El Dorado

2006 STS

2000 Corvette

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I just got off the phone with the dealership. They are waiting for the arrival of a temperature sensor. They think it was all caused by just a bad temperature sensor. I asked the guy whether he thought it was a blown head gasket and he said, "in all the years that I've worked for Cadillac and have seen thousands of these cars, I can count on one hand the number of 4.9 litre engines that have actually had a blown head gasket". He said they are almost 100% sure it's just a bad temperature sensor and once it arrives from where ever it's coming from, they install it, then road test the car, I should hopefully have my old greyhound back by this evening or at worst, tomorrow. This 2006 SRX is a gas guzzler in comparison to my 4.9. WOW!! :wacko::blink:

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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Very glad to hear that not to mention how the 4.9 is not susceptible to head gasket leaks. Something we knew already but its still good to hear.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Marika,

I apologize for the long post, let me list my experience in order of occurance since it seems to mirror your own;

1) waterpump replaced, drove 5k miles

2) slow loss of coolant, could smell it, couldn't find the problem, would refil every 3-4 weeks.

3) cracked radiator (finally I thought I had solved the problem!)

4) replaced radiator and thermostat, put in the tabs

5) drove 15k miles no problem, still slight smell of coolant, temps stable

6) during this 15k miles i developed a rough idle on cold start, that would go away after car began to warm up, still had to refil coolant, but every 4-6 weeks, began worrying about HG failure

7) had chemical test done, dye started to turn but did not fully turn, dealership believed HGs starting to fail

8) had pressure test done by my family mechanic, all cylinders within spec

9) had leakdown test done by family mechanic, no coolant present

10) drove another 3k miles, including back down to ATL for school, on trip A/C dies and temps start to move past middle mark in heavy traffic in South Carolina, I panic and put the heat on full blast, it helps stabilize temps, I get back to ATL with heat on 90 deg and windows down (luckily it was about 55 outside so it was tolerable) it never overheated but it set some of the codes you mentioned, and when I checked my FSM, I was finally convinced it was a matter of time before the gaskets popped.

11) darn coolant smell would never go away

12) coolant smell got worse with heater on, had heater core checked, no leak, fine, just smell of coolant being pulled in from engine bay

13) rough idle on startup pissed me off really bad one cold morning in late January, I gunned it, and a big pretty cloud of white smoke came pouring out the tailpipe

14) parked car, could see coolant on front of engine behind radiator, also some dripped on the ground, thought HGs were to blame.

15) towed to a very good shop that works on ONLY Caddys and Jags in ATL after shopping around for HG work.

16) Had the HGs replaced, but the shop found the HGs were fine, problem was I'd stripped 2 bolts and partially lifted the head so I had HGs, Timeserts, A/C Compressor, evaporator, belts, pulleys, sensors all while they had the engine out, cost $4500 out the door, I believe just uner 2k for parts and 2500ish for labor, with a 1 year/unlimited mile warranty on 100% of labor (the really expensive part), plus manufacturer warranty on parts.

17) The shop managed to strip the drain cock valve on the radiator so they replaced that for free too

18) Engine temps stable, no burnning coolant, no rough idle on startup.

I was quoted as little as $2500 installed for a used engine (3 month warranty), $5500 for a Jasper reman (3y/75k mile warranty), $6500 for a new GMparts Direct (3y/50k mile warranty). My engine only had 89k on the clock so I figured why put in a new engine with the same defect (headbolts torqued directly into the soft aluminum block). Also, I was quoted anywhere from 3k to 4k on the timesert job and if I had not had the A/C worked on I would have saved over $1k, making it 3-3500ish. I hope you don't have head problems, but if you do, weigh carefully the value of such a costly repair, and goodluck.

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OK!!! the greyhound is coming home tonight!!

Here's the deal:

Replaced bad temperature sensor.

Replaced defective radiator cap, was not holding the pressure and was pissing antifreeze all over the place.

Replaced a "T" connector at the heater core that was as old as the car and leaking.

Reprogram the computer regarding the temperature blah blah blah, I'll have to find out further when I get there later and pick up the car what they exactly did in the computer and what had to be reprogrammed because of the temperature.

Total price: $456.76 :D

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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Marika,

I apologize for the long post, let me list my experience in order of occurance since it seems to mirror your own;

1) waterpump replaced, drove 5k miles

2) slow loss of coolant, could smell it, couldn't find the problem, would refil every 3-4 weeks.

3) cracked radiator (finally I thought I had solved the problem!)

4) replaced radiator and thermostat, put in the tabs

5) drove 15k miles no problem, still slight smell of coolant, temps stable

6) during this 15k miles i developed a rough idle on cold start, that would go away after car began to warm up, still had to refil coolant, but every 4-6 weeks, began worrying about HG failure

7) had chemical test done, dye started to turn but did not fully turn, dealership believed HGs starting to fail

8) had pressure test done by my family mechanic, all cylinders within spec

9) had leakdown test done by family mechanic, no coolant present

10) drove another 3k miles, including back down to ATL for school, on trip A/C dies and temps start to move past middle mark in heavy traffic in South Carolina, I panic and put the heat on full blast, it helps stabilize temps, I get back to ATL with heat on 90 deg and windows down (luckily it was about 55 outside so it was tolerable) it never overheated but it set some of the codes you mentioned, and when I checked my FSM, I was finally convinced it was a matter of time before the gaskets popped.

11) darn coolant smell would never go away

12) coolant smell got worse with heater on, had heater core checked, no leak, fine, just smell of coolant being pulled in from engine bay

13) rough idle on startup pissed me off really bad one cold morning in late January, I gunned it, and a big pretty cloud of white smoke came pouring out the tailpipe

14) parked car, could see coolant on front of engine behind radiator, also some dripped on the ground, thought HGs were to blame.

15) towed to a very good shop that works on ONLY Caddys and Jags in ATL after shopping around for HG work.

16) Had the HGs replaced, but the shop found the HGs were fine, problem was I'd stripped 2 bolts and partially lifted the head so I had HGs, Timeserts, A/C Compressor, evaporator, belts, pulleys, sensors all while they had the engine out, cost $4500 out the door, I believe just uner 2k for parts and 2500ish for labor, with a 1 year/unlimited mile warranty on 100% of labor (the really expensive part), plus manufacturer warranty on parts.

17) The shop managed to strip the drain cock valve on the radiator so they replaced that for free too

18) Engine temps stable, no burnning coolant, no rough idle on startup.

I was quoted as little as $2500 installed for a used engine (3 month warranty), $5500 for a Jasper reman (3y/75k mile warranty), $6500 for a new GMparts Direct (3y/50k mile warranty). My engine only had 89k on the clock so I figured why put in a new engine with the same defect (headbolts torqued directly into the soft aluminum block). Also, I was quoted anywhere from 3k to 4k on the timesert job and if I had not had the A/C worked on I would have saved over $1k, making it 3-3500ish. I hope you don't have head problems, but if you do, weigh carefully the value of such a costly repair, and goodluck.

RAZE, you have a NORTHSTAR, Marika has a 4.9...... different as apples and oranges

OK!!! the greyhound is coming home tonight!!

Here's the deal:

Replaced bad temperature sensor.

Replaced defective radiator cap, was not holding the pressure and was pissing antifreeze all over the place.

Replaced a "T" connector at the heater core that was as old as the car and leaking.

Reprogram the computer regarding the temperature blah blah blah, I'll have to find out further when I get there later and pick up the car what they exactly did in the computer and what had to be reprogrammed because of the temperature.

Total price: $456.76 :D

Marika, Congrats..... I'll keep my fingers crossed. The cap probably contributed to this heavily, but the sensor kept the fans from starting. The only thing that concerns me is that when there is a coolant temp sensor problem the FANS are defaulted to HIGH.. which would negate the sensor from causing the problem... fingers crossed that the cap was not allowing it to build up 15 PSI and it was boiling LOW...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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OK!!! the greyhound is coming home tonight!!

Here's the deal:

Replaced bad temperature sensor.

Replaced defective radiator cap, was not holding the pressure and was pissing antifreeze all over the place.

Replaced a "T" connector at the heater core that was as old as the car and leaking.

Reprogram the computer regarding the temperature blah blah blah, I'll have to find out further when I get there later and pick up the car what they exactly did in the computer and what had to be reprogrammed because of the temperature.

Total price: $456.76 :D

You are all set.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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OK, the reprogramming was explained to me that there was a flash PROM program update from General Motors for this car of mine so all they did was reflash the PROM in the car so I have the latest computer program now for the car. It's like flashing the BIOS system on your computer to bring it up to date. :blink:

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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it's not enough to do a drain and fill on the coolant system and think you're done. lots of stuff needs to be checked. all it takes is one piece to crap out and you have a major problem.

sounds like your 2nd mechanic has his act together.

jackg

90seville 100k

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Don't I feel silly...

Don't, I have done it many times

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I got the old greyhound home finally. She was a bit sluggish at first but woke up after a while on the highway. Seems to be ok but I smell antifreeze.

They must have put something on the roof of the car while it was at the dealership being fixed, there's a scratch on the roof of the car on the driver's side. Oh well. :(

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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OK, had the car out this morning. Started fine and everything seemed fine. Temperature rose normally but went all the way up to 223F which I guess then turns on the fan. Temperature came back down to 190F and then hovered between 196F and 203F.

Why would the temperature go all the way up to 223F and then come back down? Do I sense that something is "sticking" in the morning or is this normal? I don't recall it ever doing this before?

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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If that was your initial warm up, that is what happens when the thermostat opens, its a sign that your stat opened, and the temp dropped to 190 when it opened and stabilized.. its normal

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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If that was your initial warm up, that is what happens when the thermostat opens, its a sign that your stat opened, and the temp dropped to 190 when it opened and stabilized.. its normal

Yes, that was the initial warm up, first start of the day after sitting all night long outside in temps that hovered in the mid 40's.

By the way, the 2006 SRX that I was using as a loaner car. I drove a total of 54 miles with it and had to add 5.89 gallons of fuel at a cost of $18.89 to return the car to full. OUCH!!!

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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I hope not, that means its getting 9.1 miles to the gallon, it must not have been full...

The action of your temp gage this morning was normal and indicated the stat opening

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I hope not, that means its getting 9.1 miles to the gallon, it must not have been full...

The action of your temp gage this morning was normal and indicated the stat opening

Oh, it was full the tank, they give it to you with a full tank and they tell you the car is yours to use, no charge, but you have to return it with a full tank. Dreadful mileage. I remember noticing right away what poor mileage it has. :blink:

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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That is hard to believe. Maybe the tires were low or something was wrong

Here is the EPA Estimated Fuel Economy Statistics from Cadillac.com

Fuel Economy

EPA estimated 16 mpg city, 23 mpg highway (V6 RWD)

EPA estimated 15 mpg city, 22 mpg highway (V6 AWD)

EPA estimated 15 mpg city, 21 mpg highway (V8 RWD)

EPA estimated 15 mpg city, 20 mpg highway (V8 AWD)

How heavy is your FOOT? :lol:

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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That is hard to believe. Maybe the tires were low or something was wrong

Here is the EPA Estimated Fuel Economy Statistics from Cadillac.com

Fuel Economy

EPA estimated 16 mpg city, 23 mpg highway (V6 RWD)

EPA estimated 15 mpg city, 22 mpg highway (V6 AWD)

EPA estimated 15 mpg city, 21 mpg highway (V8 RWD)

EPA estimated 15 mpg city, 20 mpg highway (V8 AWD)

How heavy is your FOOT? :lol:

Not to get into an argument with you, but, as you know, the EPA statistics are usually WRONG and overstated. If those figures you state are correct, then they are worse than what the EPA says about my '92 Seville (14 year old car) 4.9 litre, V8 engine.

Fuel Type

Premium Gasoline

MPG (city) 16

MPG (highway) 25

MPG (combined) 19

Those are the listed figures for my car at fueleconomy.gov

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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